Simon C

It's listed as being on Hibiscus Coast, which is where the original owner lives. Also, CarJam still reports it as having 2 owners, so it looks like it hasn't changed hands at all (Singapore Spec was the 2nd owner of the car).

Don't steal the addiction from the man who knows how to cause maximum pain, but without killing you

The limited run STi Spec C Type RA and the S203 were both V9 based cars AFAIK.

I just bought more heat wrap. Kind of an expensive way to do things though. At least I know that every single spot of my header tubing is in contact with heat wrap.

Spec C, you need to look up the spring rates of your coilovers. I'm running 6kgmm front and 4kgmm back, and with the dampers on softest that's the limit of what I'll tolerate in a daily driver. Turning the dampers down won't affect your spring rate. The other alternative is that your car has been lowered so much that you're hitting the bumpstops on some road features. Can't tell without a picture of your car. The suggestion that you return your car to OEM suspension isn't a bad suggestion at all, since you obviously drive on the road a hell of a lot more than on the track. Yeah, you'll lose some handling (I noticed a big difference going from OEM to my Zerosports), but your car has a pretty good factory setup anyway. Get a proper alignment done (say, 2 degrees of negative camber, zero toe all around), throw on some really good tires (eg. Bridgestone RE11) and you'll have really great handling while still having a decent ride.

The only true Spec C was V7. All the others got pansy heavy electric windows! Wind up windows FTW ;D

Front suspension arms are different on Spec C V7 and V8 for increased wheelbase and castor. Became standard on V9 onwards. V7 Spec C has VF34 which is a ballbearing VF30. V8 and above have VF36, which is a titanium shaft ballbearing VF37.

According to EVO magazine (reliable source), it's mostly a standard car, but the differences are pretty significant. It's got an aluminium bonnet from a Spec C (can anyone comfirm that the standard STi comes with a steel bonnet? Doesn't seem right somehow....), and the turbocharger and 6 pot brakes from the R205 special edition.

The scary thing is that if you'd paid Subaru megabucks to replace your turbo, and the noise went away because they tightened the clamp when they put the new turbo in, you'd be unnecessarily out of pocket. Assuming of course that the turbo still had some life left in it, of course....

TD06 is supposed to be a bit laggy on a 2.0L, better suited to the 2.5L block. If you're around central Auckland sometime, I can show you what a TD05 18G is like.

Theres a lot of threads on NASIOC about people who have bought cheap Chinese replica TD05 turbos off eBay. Some people have gotten a reasonable lifespan out of them. However, the majority experience has been premature failure, and observation of poor quality castings. The overwhelming concensus is to avoid them like the plague, and to save up for one from a reputable builder (Blouch, Forced Performance, Deadbolt, prominent JDM tuners, etc) rather than risk the bargain. Not saying that Driven Performance are trying to hock off substandard Chinese turbos, but if there's any question that they come from the same supply chain as the ones on eBay, there's plenty of experience in the US which says to steer well clear.

They're too low if your suspension arms go horizontal or invert when you compress the suspension over a corner. You get positive camber, and your car will let go of the road in a big hurry.

1) Possible option, although you'lll end up paying for a turbo which is already part way into its lifespan. 2) Pretty certain IHI turbos have their centre sections sealed at the factory and can't be (easily) rebuilt. 3) $$$ (especially Subaru OEM stuff) and you have get more power for your dollar with other options, but if you like the way the stock car drives then a definite option. 4) $$$ as well, and you may need supporting mods like injectors and fuel pump to support it. 5) It's already dead for all intents and purposes. So yeah, it all depends on your power plans and your budget.

I'm getting 250kw on a semiclosed V7 STi 2.0L block with factory internals. Before you closed your last thread down, you said that you wanted to run a TD05 or similarly sized turbo. I've got one of those, and I can tell you right now that it's fine to run one up to the far side of its compressor map on GDB factory rods and forged pistons (even the hypereutectic cast alloy ones should be fine with that). Mine boosts at 3000RPM and pulls to redline at 7900RPM. So no need for that 10,000RPM that you were talking about with a mere TD05.

Need a ride?

Sandwich plate will allow you to run oil pressure sensor as well.

Road temp on mine reaches 90 degrees, but my turbo isn't watercooled. Not sure what it got up to on the track.

I'd pay to see someone drift that.

FP Green is good if you want to make more power than what a TD05 20G can provide. Although I'd rather have a Garrett GT3071R for that purpose.

No, there's no such thing as ball bearing Mitsubishi turbos. They're all journal bearing. A popular turbo in the US is what's known as a TD05 EVO III 16g. It's a fast spooling high flowing TD05-16g which apparently outflows a VF34 with the same spool characteristics. There are a few 2nd hand ones on NASIOC at the moment, they're bolt on and generally water + oil cooled. Best ones are made by Blouch and Forced Performance.

+1 for TD05. My GReddy TD05 spools almost as fast as my old VF34, and outflows it by around 30%.

Of course the blue car would pass. You haven't tinkered with it! Subies are pretty rugged when we leave them the way they're supposed to be ;D

Heh. Seriously, the steering column tilt adjustment won't go low enough!

Got some ultra low seat rails for the car. Now I can't see over the dashboard. I can't even see my bonnet scoop! Shale, do you need to borrow my trickle charger?

Something in the engine bay has leaked or something at some point, there's telltale splotches on the pulley cover. Also, watch out that it hasn't been lowered so much that the handling gets thrown off. It's generally accepted that the suspension arms invert on cornering once the suspension has been dropped more than 30-35mm. Also, beware the Fast Fours and Turbos badge!