D-Style
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Posts posted by D-Style
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I still wouldnt hack up a 1st Gen Blitzen like the Top Pic. Looks Rangi az. Might as well sold bumper to pay for a C-west Type replacement....
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The only issue I have with FMIC is fitting it behind the blitzen bumper! Lag isn\'t the product of a bigger IC and piping, response maybe but that will be minimal.
For the cost of ~$600 I don\'t think I can get a better IC solution. All the Aussie upgraded top mounts are about $1200 and will still most likely get heatsoak...
Best mod so far has been half a tank of 98 and some octane booter lol.
Yes you dont want to hack up a Blitzen Bumper!!!
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I used some RS*R springs in my Blitzen. I also had the shocks rebuilt at time. Nice ride, but still abit limited compared to STi. Might need guard rolling if wheels are larger.
Adjustables are hit and miss second hand. If you were to get some, then you might as well factor in a rebuild plus cert costs.
Either look out for cheap second hand exhausts from wreakers or look at Fortyone.co.nz for new or there yahoo auctions japan service.
Stay with OEM airbox, do a Cold air intake. You can replace the inlet pipe with a Zerosports one for abit of bling.
I wouldnt go Fmic. Cost for more lag. The standard Cooler is pretty good, but few things are replace the plastic inlet pipes with some samco ones and open up the bonnet scope (most just put a v8 scope on) Water sprayer can be done to.
I did do a V8 I/C install, but was PITA and required few custom mounts, Y-Pipe mods, and replace clutch Master cylinder with one from a V7+
Depending on you skills in things with cars, you can buy the cable and with the use of ECU flash/Romraider give http://torquedperformance.com/aboutus.sc an email. Costs a flat fee of $150US. Highly Regarded tuner.
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You really need to get it scanned when cold to see what the output is, Or you can just replace the sensor and see if it fixes it, It\'s the one with 2 wires that is on the pipe that runs to the top radiator hose.
Need to remove alternator to get at it easy. And the BE/BH are OEM subaru only part. think they were about $60.
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Temp Sensor
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In regards to stage 0...
I would put droping the sump and giving it a clean out along with oil pickup. The oil feed(s) pipes would be a good idea too.
Do the late ichi ban\'s trick and remove the mesh filter from oil feed and AVCS feed pipes if install.
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Sorry for the possibly silly question, but guessing it\'s a Legacy/Lancaster of sorts? If it\'s an 00\' year, it should be a Rev C...? As far as I know the BE/BH were Rev C and Rev D. And if anyone else can verify this, but I think they print VDC on the fuse box anyway, but it only serves it\'s purpose if the car is fitted with VDC. When you turn your key to ignition on but not starting, you should see 2 illuminated icons if you\'ve got VDC, a car with squiggly skids, and a VDC OFF icon. If they light up with everything else on start up, you\'ll have VDC fitted.
\'00 BE/BH should be rev B. \'01 rev C. And 02 Rev D.
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Haha, yes a filter if youve got one lying around (TT\'s have 4 or 5 in all their hoses?) - but try just using something with like a pinhole sized opening in it, some gauges come with a T piece that has a little brass restrictor pill thing on it to stop this - same as the restrictor pill in the wastegate line
Just dampens out the pulsing effect so the gauge stays steady - some gauges already have like a tiny pinhole opening to do this so dont need the inline restrictor or filter OR they are liquid filled which has the same result of calming it downTodays lesson brought to you by the letter I(amboredatwork)
Not really. Liquid filled is to render the gauge inert during different Temps and Humidities. You must use some super thick glycerine to damper a normal Burdon tube type gauge.
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Like... no need to go buying a massive semi truck when you just need to take a garden trailer to the tip - sometimes there is no point in going overkill as it just adds cost for no actual real world gains
Handy if you do plan on towing a house one day though
hey who doesnt want a 700hp Volvo to do the laps in...
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has anyone even NDT a EJ conrod and seen what the make-up is like?
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\'92 RS 140K: Bearing on cam pulley failed(someone didnt change it at 100K) . Threw cam belt. Munch Munch valves for lunch.
\'01 Blitzen 103K: Turbo then BEB. Oil Pick up had crack in a weld, so wasnt sucking up enough oil. No pressure problem, just not enough volume.
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Just put some heat wrap on and you wont know the difference.
Lobster back is also cheaper to make. You only need straight tube or steel plate to make it.
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but more often the pull the bolts on the big end, then bend the neck and or snap and poke out the block.
A few other engines Ive worked with, changing the big end bolts and preping the rods provided a good enought strenght for most road cars.
Like early 4G63 VR4 or 1UZ Rods just changing Bolts provide a good power ceiling. Ive even Built a RB2.4 with stock rods, which after I sold ended up having a T04 (trust t67??) bolt up and being thrash around Hams for a good lenght of time.
But bending/snaping rods is a different issue.
Just funny seeing people get told they need to have forged this and titanium that, if they arnt even going to truly see the numbers which they have build their bottom end too. Or to have it throw a BEB due to the belief that a "forged" motor solves everything, yet they do nothing to their oil system or get it tuned right.
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If you have the "black face" custer you can only change the rings around the dials. They are T5 type .
/quote]
My RSK B4 has issues with the rings blinking on/off, working/not working - any ideas? (theyve been modified to bright blue)
If you have changed to LED\'s sometimes they work themselves loose from time to time as they arent a tight fit
I had to "glue" a couple of LED\'s in to the plugs to stop them blinking.
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What is it about the rods that fail? do they break? bend? Cap bolts/studs break?
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Its luck of draw. Some people do Full exhaust and have no problems, other people do it and It blow turbo up on first run.
Why look around Yahoo auctions for some second hand JDM goodness?
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id be happy with 220-230kw even. it just come down to reliability in the end hence why id be going with a well known engine builder who knows there stuff.
Reliable/Fast is what id be more after.
What are people thoughts on after market pistons even? i see a few use CP pistons etc.
If this is the case, why bother with this topic?
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The factory exhaust manifold is un-equal lenght......
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Silicone coolant kit - my96 GTB
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
Most of the Main Pipes yes. Thou the Turbo Coonlant feed pipes will be different. So you need to pipe some extra hose and make these up yourself.
Useless by luck you search around Yahoo auctions japan and find some Samco, Zeropsorts or PRS kits
EDIT: http://www.tpl.co.jp/samco/jp/datetbls/jp.html#Subaru SAMCO Japan listings with pictures.