BLSTIC

Yeah that's blow by for you. If you want to keep the external blow-off valve you will need to have an oil catch can/breather tank. Specifically on the thumb width hose that has oil on the inside of it and goes to the intake between the air flow meter and turbochargers. As an added bonus it will keep the inside of your intercooler clean as well, and has been known to stop detonation in some cases. Alternatively, live with your oil coated engine bay, or plumb the BOV back in.

My list is pretty short. It consists of Nulon E10 (Worn engine treatment) and Nulon 'Total Fuel System Cleaner'. Basically I haven't had an engine deteriorate with E10 in it, despite the fact that three of those engines were in speedway cars. One of them was an EFI VK commodore engine with unknown history. It got overheated four times, two of them seriously, and spent life between 4000 and 5500 rpm. If you don't know, redline of those is 4500. Oh, and it still has 40psi oil pressure at idle cold, and 25 when hot. Which is the same as when we got it. And the injector cleaner additive seems to work as well. No miracle stories about that though. Your experiences?

Auckland isn't going to work for me, unfortunately. I'm in Dunedin. And postage for a car won't be cheap. <stir>If you were on the mainland maybe...</stir> But anyway, I'm looking for cars in a different price range.

PM me when it's there with your details.

Umm, do tell. Where and how much?

Sure, where and when? Oh, and how long do you need it for? One of these days I'll need them back.

When the pipe leading to the turbo was good (ie not leaking) I could have 10psi at 2500rpm, uphill in 3rd (about as loaded up as the car ever gets). In first gear the earliest I ever got 10 psi (on the flat) was about 4200. That's just nailing in 1st, not full on launching though. I don't mind the torque dropping off at 6000-ish as it does at the moment, but ideally I would get my 10 psi at 2000 and 3000 respectively (under very high load and just putting my foot flat in first respectively). I have a good air powered die grinder, and various metal cutting/grinding bits for it (even a full set of carbide bits that don't change shape ). The only issue I have is the compressor is a little small. Using high air consumption tools (like die grinders) is a royal PITA if you are talking about a long job (I'm led to believe a porting job on a head can take as much as 3 hours a port in some cases, and I have four massive ports, two of which are iron).

Sorry to get s****y, but the point is to get the absolute most out of the stuff I have. And going to a different turbo, I run the risk of raising the boost threshold (when boost hits), especially in the lower gears. So the question again, has anyone had experience in porting turbochargers? Exhaust manifolds? Thanks Ben

I'm using a VF10 because that's what I have. Why is it a risk anyway? Oh, and I won't be touching the turbine wheels for them to need balancing.

I'm considering porting the standard VF10 on my legacy GT (for when the new engine finally gets built, one year...). Actually it's fair to say that I'm doing it anyway, whatever people say, but... Has anyone had any experience in porting turbochargers? What happened? I'm not touching the areas where the wheels run, or 'back-cutting' the turbine wheel. For the purposes of lag, both ideas are dumb (although back cutting the turbine wheel may have advantages top-end). Thanks Ben

I have a pair bolted on to some wrx heads. I'm in Dunedin.

The reason I can't run the VTEC four cylinders is that I don't think any honda's came out front engine, rear drive (or AWD), and with a permanant roof. For some reason convertibles aren't allowed even if you make a roof. A VTEC 6 could be done in an accord (I think they made AWD V6's), but the issue is finding a late model accord, and a VTEC V6...

A grade Saloon. I got told to use the standard saloon engine rulebook. Hence the not 4v engines over 3 litres, and all the rest of it. And no, the FTO engine is not out. All I need to run it in rwd configuration is to use it in a car that came with a mitsubishi v6 that drove the back wheels. Galants came V6 and AWD, as did GTO's, some Diamante's, and there was even a 6 cylinder lancer, although I don't think it was AWD.

Unfortunately the honda's are out. The car has to resemble a production car, drive the right wheels, and have an engine from parent manufacturer with the right cylinders. So unless they made a 4wd/rear drive 4 cylinder honda I can butcher for the body (meaning i also need to find a cheap one), I can't. Convertible's aren't allowed, even if you make a hard-top, so I can't do something that looks like an S2000

Unfortunately if 4v engines over 3 litres were allowed I would. Technically the guys running BA Falcon engines are in super sedans until the rules regarding electric throttles, variable cam timing, and four-valve displacement limits are changed. I was considering running the 3.0 Mivec Diamante (spelling?) 30M engine, but it's too hard to find. Along with the C30 VTEC engines, and pretty much every other decent size highly strung naturally aspirated engine.

I would like to see what happens when evidence is destroyed before a court case... Which is what would happen in the case of an immediate crushing...

Not an issue. Any engine can be made to point north-south and drive the rear wheels. Especially when you are making the car around the engine, not hacking a road car to fit something that really shouldn't be there

an 'a-grade' speedway car. Basically a tube frame chassis that will weigh in at about 800kg with me in it. I'll be competing against 1100kg cars with 351's that have about 400hp. I should have mentioned that the 6A12 is the 2.0 V6 in the FTO's, and I'm talking about the mivec interpretation of it.

Objective evidence only. Calling them crap because the are made by the opposition doesn't count. The reason I want to know about this engine - Making an 'A-grade' speedway car. I need a cheap, powerful engine without forced induction. 150kw seems to be the limit when it comes to the power output of cheap standard cars, and the 6A12 is the smallest engine I can find that will make it. There is also a weight advantage to picking a smaller engine (car is allowed to be lighter). So, what do you guys know about them? Particularly, how reliable are they when thrashed (it will be living in the region of 5000-8000rpm a lot), and what do people to to them to get more power, without going for forced induction?

There is no solution. Boy racers have existed since cars were cheap, and will continue as long as there are cars available to them. A partial solution is to have a drag strip/burnout pad in every decent sized town (ie 50,000+) that actually gets opened evry fortnight. But on my experience with trying to convince some of my boy racer mates to legally compete (ie in the recent demo derby at Island Park, or the up-coming burnout competition), they are afraid of real competition, where everyone gets ranked. It's kinda annoying that so few of them will compete legally. The saying 'When the flag drops, the bull**** stops'. Most of the boy racers stop... I'm so ready to be flamed for the above line. Incedentally if you say something like 'street racerz rule bro, to prove it I'll beat you up' I'm going to ignore it...

I have a magazine article here where a guy got an old RX Leone (turbocharged, 4 door, wierd straw weave pattern grill). It seems the engine fit easily, with the only engine bay hacks required being to modify the crossmember to fit the legacy rack, and alter the radiator support panel. It needed a new gearbox crossmember as well. The diff was said to bolt up, and leone drivshafts were used (diff to wheels). He used all legacy springs, shocks, and brakes. I can't see what year or original engine it has, although similar looking leone's (and the coupe versions) were sold in the mid-late 80's. So I would say it is the 'late model' one. That said I have seen a few brumby conversions and wasn't aware of any body/chassis alterations that were needed.

I don't even know what a justy is...

Just considering my options. I have a complete GT Legacy wagon to butcher. It has a 5 spd and a nearly rooted engine (thankfully I have a spare) and it's manual. It's also currently on the road, so I know that at least it all works and is relatively reliable (it's my daily driver for now). I'm not looking at it in terms of liveability (I don't need any more than two seats), but cost, weight, handling, and sleeper factor. Which one and why? Thanks Ben

I disconnected that on my 1st gen Legacy and boost rose ~1.5 psi. I'm not sure if that's typical though. The main reason I removed the hose was because I broke off the connection on the resonant chamber though. Incedentally I think I'm probably one of the 'mis-information' people.

Mine is relatively effective. There was oil pooling before the turbo (90* intake pointing up on 1st gen legacy's), and now without cleaning it, both it and the intercooler only have the slightest film on them. I also noticed a slightly more km on each oil change (1-200 km more before tappet noise started). But that particular side effect could have been caused by anything. My PCV is still connected, I just fed the can with the line that goes in before the turbo.