nickmcgill

To my understanding it requires a loom change, but I'm hoping someone can elaborate as to why. I would have thought it would have been easier to do some custom electrical and make the required stuff up and splice in.

Good day fellow clubsubbers. I know this is a topic which has been discussed many times before and most people have said it can't be done, the auto to manual conversion of a BE5/BH5. I have used the search feature before anyone pipes in with this, I couldn't find anything specific to this model. Currently I'm looking at the possibility of re-looming the entire car and sticking with the current mines ECU and slapping in all the manual bits. In saying that I've been reading threads of people who have actually done a conversion with some wizardry with the existing loom, although these look to be UK models. Essentially I'm looking for answers as to why the OEM auto loom can't be used, I believe it has something to do with speed sensors on the auto box ? Hopefully Rosssub, Marky or Gotasuby might be able to chirp in. If anyone has a BE5/BH5 they are wanting to get rid of already in manual and in good shape also let me know, blown motors are also good.

My OEM hose didn't come with any pills in it at all actually, I might have to go and buy some. - That might explain why this mod made such a difference initially.

I'm going to do some testing with this again soon. Been running my car on this setup for the last year or longer when it was first posted. I've since gone to a mines ECU and sometimes the boost is peaking at 19-20 PSI on the twins which is far too much for my liking. If I revert back to the T piece I loose secondary boost all together, most bizarre.

So I picked up a new AFM after disabling everything possible electrical and checking for any issues myself. Couldn\'t find anything although I might be looking in the wrong places... As expected new AFM made the world of difference gear changes are smooth, center diff locks up properly without being sloppy. Just like a new car from one electronic part.

The twins are fine once you get used to them. Every one wanks on about single conversions and singles are the only way to go. I\'ve driven both and yes singles are good for low end power but I want most of mine at the top end so meh depends what you need it for.

I\'m running a mines ECU in mine on a BE5C runs superbly. If you spot one I\'d highly recommend it, just watch for det etc.

I\'ll ask dad if you can borrow the 100w soldering iron. It\'s a beefy fucker

If anyone has one of these in Christchurch feel free to yell out!

Just had a quick look for the earth for the AFM but the wind in Christchurch this afternoon is so crazy the bonnet almost took off. I\'ll have a good look tomorrow.

This is actually quite possible. I\'ve put a new battery in within the last fortnight as the last one was getting a bit dated. Previous to this I did have issues with dirty/corroded contacts on the battery causing the inside lights to flicker etc until I had tracked it down to the battery terminals. Other than that finding a ripple or a bad earth would be a fairly difficult task would it not ?

To my knowledge there is no splits or leaks, I\'m pretty anal about the engine and keep a tight eye on it. It\'s basically stock other than a Zerosports joiner between the airbox and the air intake that goes in under the manifold and silicon hoses between the turbo and the intercooler. The issue was persistent long before these were applied. It could be a dodgy O2 but it\'s also less than 12 months old so I\'m not too sure. Can you explain a bit further how the O2\'s can kill the AFM\'s ? I\'m aware that those two plus the other flow meter in the exhaust work together but unsure how they would damage each other. The whole engine was also overhauled in January with a new long block due to BeB and I\'m pretty sure anyone in Chch would swear by Richards work so I\'m fairly sure it won\'t be anything to do with that.

Requires single and manual conversion you should know better!

Good day to all, Here is my rant about AFM\'s that I\'ve been simmering on for awhile now. I will put a TL;DR at the bottom. Vehicle is a 2000 BE5 AT. I\'m about to go onto either my 5th, 6th or 7th AFM within about 5 years, I have actually lost track. All of them have seemed to have failed within the 12 month "warranty" period. First of all to clear some things up some of you will be thinking oh this guy\'s a douche and running a pod filter which will be breaking them. Believe it or not I\'m not! I have a standard air box with genuine supplied filters from Armstrongs/Stubaru At one point I was running a K&N panel filter which I found pretty quickly killed the AFM\'s and I moved back to paper ones. Even so K&N have a "Consumer Protection Pledge" that it won\'t damage your parts found here : http://www.knfilters.com/MAF/ My current AFM has been in since January and has been degrading slowly over the last few months. Symptoms include loss of power, excess fuel usage resulting in black smoke under load and 1-2 seconds gap between automatic gear changes. (Which feels as rough as hell) I have been able to prove it is the AFMs causing this issue by swapping it out with a brand new one for 48 hours (Thanks Stu!) and testing this. I have also swapped out the TCU, ECU and O2 on more than one occasion to test this issue. I took my car into Armstrongs to get tested to attempt to do a warranty claim for the part. They tested it and checked out my setup to confirm that it had a paper filter and standard air box etc. Leighton came and reported to me that the air/fuel correction ratio is only between 3-6% and the threshold for error is 10%. A week later I then contacted Subaru NZ directly to attempt a claim through them. They called Armstrong\'s to get the details of what was done for the diagnostics and then called me back later that afternoon. The chap I spoke to was really helpful don\'t get me wrong however he said that they rarely do replacements of these units normally less than 1 per year. He suggested that it might be something else with my car causing the issue being either electrical or mechanical. The only thing I could think of that would cause that would be the air coming from the inter-cooler through the BOV back down into the intake and going back out past the AFM. If this is the case then I would have thought this would have been a design flaw and would have been corrected on future models but it seems not. TL;DR Why do these units fail so often and are known for having a high failure rate in the Subaru community. Does anyone know if they are able to be reconditioned to save the $200 odd for another one ? N.B I found using AFM cleaner makes them worse not better. Hoping this generates some interesting discussion.

Need to watch 3" turbo backs on the TT\'s too. Will overspool your primary and naff it real quick

My problem is that I stated TWICE that my car is a ROAD CAR not a track car. You seemed to have missed this both times. I do not need an external oil cooler. I simply wanted to know the pros and cons of removing the factory one.

Eeffff are you not reading this ?! FFS.

Sounds like a lot of money and effort to see my oil temp.

Just to clarify I\'m not looking at putting an external cooler on. This is a road car not a track car. I don\'t want to use a sandwich plate as it will make my filter sit below my exhaust manifold. People that know me will be able to appreciate how likely this would be to puncture due to the terrain it covers often.

It\'s just a road car but trying to look at the easiest way to do it. Will likely be getting Richard / SAS to do it if it requires other work than removing the cooler lol.

Howdy, I had jumped into a thread about this awhile ago but I\'m after a more definitive answer. I\'m looking at removing the factory oil cooler / heat exchange to replace it with a Prosports plate that I can bung pressure / temp sensors into. It would likely be possible to put the prosports plate under the oil cooler but then my filter will hang down too low. Is it worth removing or are they useful enough to be left in place and using other bung holes for the sensors. Cheers.

+1 shouldn\'t have bought a legacy if that\'s the case. Should have gone with a WRX lol

Could be something gearboxy - AT or MT ?

What\'s it like when it\'s idling / reving while not in gear ?

Safe to say these are a go-er are they guys ?