Wiretap

I can now see what your problem was. Your new MAF tube was too small! Yes, only 5mm smaller, but that really won't help. That and the turbulator/venturi baffle.

What happened now? Project cancelled?

I think that's the HVAC fan control module, works the same as a fuel pump module, but the fuel pump module is found in the RR quarter of the car.

If I were you I'd be very wary of the stuff that people stateside talk about. There is an unbelievable amount of misinformation over there (for example, according to them the V3/4 2L Impreza bumper is only found on V4 STis, nothing else )

Looks like somebody made a booboo when manufacturing that plate.

Most people who buy Gen4s don't lower them as they're not quite cheap enough to reach 'that market segment' yet. However I wouldn't see why Bilsteins would be better than KYBs in terms of lowering, especially seeing as they are likely to have the same type of spring on them anyway (if maybe a slightly different rate)

FWIW: This vehicle is in Subaru's system as being 52D so I'm not sure how 62D ended up on your tag plate. And 406 is the silver used on all Imprezas from GC/GFxA through to GC/GFxE

The knock control strategy actually hasn't changed for what it's worth.

The 'reflash' I'm referring to in this case is re-flashing with an appropriately tuned (dyno or road, doesn't matter) map. Not a generic base map, those are base maps for a reason, they're what you base your tune on, certainly not a finished product and it is not safe to consider them as such.

It will, unfortunately, cost about the same as a 'performance tune' as you don't pay per kilowatt of output. You can run 95 safely in the 3.0R that's for certain but I'm not 100% on the GT as there have been mixed results.

My personal preference is: Standard airbox, Zero Sports intake pipe, Ducting from airbox to guard. Sure its not as pretty as these aftermarket solutions but it is guaranteed reliable. If you need any bits give the guys at Strong For Subaru a call and they'll be able to sort you out with what you need (Including the ZS pipe at the moment too )

You need a high quality fuel to reach 'mean best torque' on a high compression engine. Your honda is distributed ignition so in reality it's going to have 'safe' timing which is going to be nowhere near MBT.

95 will give about 16-20% less power (according to dyno sheets found online), which will mean a bit more foot pedal so I'd say 12-15% worse economy.

S2000 are notoriously twitchy and would be extremely hard to handle.

Both will run 95 okay. Best to re-map both of them though, the 3.0R runs a 10.7:1 CR so really is intended for 98 too.

It's available from placemakers, etc. Aluminium tape. Its a bit of a pig to work with and once it sticks to itself you'll never get it unstuck.

that's the low pressure side, it shouldn't pop off. Only time it might is if there's an air bubble and it creates a hydraulic hammer effect

You need to use the 6-speed shifter if you ever want to go backwards again. Most of it will bolt up, however you will need for certain to use that driveshaft as they're incredibly short. I believe you will also need to mount a stud for the bottom starter bolt as the 6-speed is for an 8-bolt block. There may be other issues as I have not done this conversion myself, however for the most part The Lego Effect ™ applies. Note that if you use the rear 6-speed hubs you will need the Brembos to match as your standard calipers will not work.

As easy as tuning the car essentially from scratch, sure. But free, absolutely. Only problem with a MAF delete is that any modification is going to require further tuning.

seriously ? carbon vortex? like the older mitsi ones? if this conical turbulator is as important as it seems - i would be changing that over pretty asap ! Similar however they output a voltage still not a frequency like the mitsi ones. One can have the MAF re-scaled to work without adapting the baffle but it requires a tuner who knows about more than just Air/Fuel calculations and timing as calibrating the MAF is a fairly involved process.

The stock tube has a conical turbulator baffle which the HKS one also emulates, most custom piping won't have that. (MAF can be recalibrated with a good tune though) Another point: Late model MAF sensors are Kármán Vortex type, no hot wire/plate. So technically they should be K&N safe.

Even doing that check that the air/fuel ratios are healthy. Doesn't take much to mess with the MAF calibration to the point of danger, even when it 'feels ok'

I thought you worked there?

That is unfortunately completely daft... The point of camber is to handle sidewall squish and body roll in a manner that keeps as much of the tyre as possible on the road. I can't see how that'd help that.

Worth noting that you should leave about 4 inches between the MAF and any big bends. Most of those intake relocation systems have the MAF in the centre of the straight section between the guard and under-manifold pipe. The pipe you copied may have had baffles and/or vanes in the curves to stop the flow distorting.