Wiretap
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Posts posted by Wiretap
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Are you still using an appropriate MAF tube? Or is it a custom one? MAF sensor tubes are calibrated and don't like being messed with.
Also, some air filters can cause turbulence which causes the MAF sensor to misread...
/quote]
Custom tube, Should be fine tho. its all set up right from what I believe. If it was the MAF tho surely I would be having the same problem with the HKS mushroom filter on it?
Not neccessarily. Messing with the MAF tube is never a good idea though, as it can cause mis-measurement of the air leading to your car running either too rich or too lean
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Are you still using an appropriate MAF tube? Or is it a custom one? MAF sensor tubes are calibrated and don't like being messed with.
Also, some air filters can cause turbulence which causes the MAF sensor to misread...
/quote]
its weird that it runs fine with the mushroom but crap without any filter, i did think firstly that it was the oil filter but im stumped..
Late model MAFs don't have any mesh across them to linearise the flow, so it's not _that_ weird.
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Are you still using an appropriate MAF tube? Or is it a custom one? MAF sensor tubes are calibrated and don't like being messed with.
Also, some air filters can cause turbulence which causes the MAF sensor to misread...
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g-box
in Electrical
Make sure you run a 4.444 (auto BC/BF) diff with that as it's a GTB/STi box. I run one and it's the only box I haven't killed yet
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g-box
in Electrical
Just a chassis earth. I wouldn't worry about it too much, it's only present on about 50% of them.
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hate-evoz']
[quote name='hate-evoz said:
mmm v5 v6 or v7 manifold will be an upgrade but you wouldnt feel any noticable power increase on the road...
best to get an aftermarket one made up
/quote]
What a load of rubbish. They are not 'upgrades' and in any case, you'd need adapters to even fit it.
The existing manifold is perfectly fine for quite a bit more power. If you want an improvement invest in port and polish for both the manifold and the head.
someones got something stuck up there a** today haha
No. I just think that giving people bad advice that could lead to them spending money on something that is unusable for them, or results in them blowing up their car, is not a good idea.
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mmm v5 v6 or v7 manifold will be an upgrade but you wouldnt feel any noticable power increase on the road...
best to get an aftermarket one made up
What a load of rubbish. They are not 'upgrades' and in any case, you'd need adapters to even fit it.
The existing manifold is perfectly fine for quite a bit more power. If you want an improvement invest in port and polish for both the manifold and the head.
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Sweet the cam caps are in the correct place so they should be all good. Dips*** couldve taken the plastic covers off then instead of leaving them hanging out of the box course the courier broke them. Didnt expect to get them though so no dramas.
Now i just need a cam cap bolt.
Shims are on the buckets not the caps, if any fell out he may have put them back in the wrong places, so it may pay to check still.
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Yes. Only in case of SOHC engines can the cams stay in. You only need to re-shim them if they've been jumbled up, you should be able to use a feeler gauge to check clearances.
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If you want lots of low end torque and reasonable power in an NA, go for the EZ30R. Not the most common conversion, but at least you won't get every subaru owner on the planet turning their nose up at you. That and they've been known to make in the region of 500hp from 2500rpm once rebuilt for turbo use (conservative power figure, 700 and above have been done in rare occasions)
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There were Link G3 Plug-ins and LinkPlus G3s. The LinkPlus is a universal wire-in (nevermind that it uses Subaru plugs, pinout is hugely different). The Link Plug-In will ONLY work on the same or similar car to what it was originally intended for.
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QRAF']
STI = (sexually transmitted disease) for all those that are a little slow :[quote name='wrx_lou said:
Sold the Lexus. Now looking for a new car with cash buying power!
/quote]
Mine?
To rich for my blood. Having a look at something a bit different this arvo.
Probably get stoned to death for it but will see.
10k for you bruv.Cheap sti.
Its a nice car and I would be keen but Its about twice the amount I was wanting to spend lol.
Edit: I live in Htown now. Could pick up an STI for considerably less trololol.
Tis true. Albeit raced rallied and rolled. Least with mine a. you know the car b. you know me and c. the car is mint.
Sorry, that wasnt a dig at the price. I'd happily part with 10k for a nice STI v5/6
Just a little inuendo as Htown is apparently the STI capital of NZ lol
I sanded and sanded an alloy oil filler spout 40,80,120 grit still got to do some in 400, 800, 1000, 1200 ;D
Dunno bout you, but I think it probably is not going to be 'disease' since that doesn't start with 'I', maybe you mean 'infection'?
Also, I just had to keep the quote pyramid going.
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Any authorised Subaru dealer. You need more than just the timing belt. They should be able to sell you a cambelt service kit. This will include tensioner, idlers and seals. You should also change the water pump.
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where did you get those quotes? I'm going to need a new cambelt really soon i'm at 101,000km and would rather just pay someone for the labour..
also where did you buy your timing belt from?
There are many good reasons for using only genuine parts. Especially with the cambelt as any failure in that region of the car will at the very least stop you moving and at the very worst destroy your engine.
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I can swap you a set of standard STi struts and springs for them if you want? I'm in Auckland. You won't be making them much softer as the damping is what makes them feel so damn hard (trust me the pink springs are even worse, have them in my BC5).
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V1/2 engines will physically fit however they will not make the same power, will possibly run rich or lean depending on induced MAF error, etc.
Best bet are: V3/4 STi (EJ20K) engines or BG5B/BG5C Manual GTB (EJ20R) engines single-converted (essentially same as STi engine just different pistons)
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Half a million things with that much information you might want to take it to someone who knows these cars.
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With standard 2.0 heads the ports are the wrong shape which causes higher compression and higher combustion temps. If you've used anything other than ej257 block the bores are hardly the strongest. I wouldn't push it too hard. Any of your turbos sound good to me for a nice driving daily with reliability
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was told the pistons that I brought would lower compression, and the engine builder wasnt worried about items supplied for build, bugged him for ages and others for information
The problem has nothing to do with the ports and everything to do with the edges of the combustion chamber. They form sharp edges which can cause hotspots. Hotspots cause pre-ignition. 'Hybrid' motors of this type typically run quite low timing because of this. The edges can be smoothed out by an enginebuilder to allay this issue.
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The factory turbo for the 2.5 STi is the VF39, if that is of any use.
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Air intake problem.... So lost.
in Engine Related
Posted
In theory, yep. You have a better chance of it running fine using the HKS MAF tube that's for sure. I haven't extensively tested the newer MAFs, but older ones had some spectacular error if the filter was wrong or missing at higher power levels.