Wiretap

Fit, yes. well... It'll bolt in, electrically it is completely different and it also flows about 20% less so you'll be markedly down on power. You will need to swap it to V3/V4 inlet manifold.

It's not a faulty temp gauge. Your cooling system is active when it shouldn't be. Your engine certainly hasn't magically stopped producing heat. The thermostat is the only device responsible for regulating when the cooling system activates. Take it out, make sure it is shut, then biff it in a pot of boiling water, it should open, then when you take it out, shut again. If non-genuine thermostats have been used you can have these issues.

Are you testing your thermostats before you fit them? This definitely sounds like a thermostat issue.

Depends how healthy the PCV is and whether it has the secondary intake breather (before the throttle body/turbo straight from the block) If that is present it is a pretty big vacuum leak. Take your oil cap off and go for a drive if you want to see what I mean.

Nah... oobviously you havent delt with VTNZ before because I personally know from experience that there picky... Im not here to argue or prove a point because I dont care but just sayin FROM PERSONAL EXPERIENCE THAT VTNZ are a bunch of tools... Ive been there with rooted tyres (cracks on side walls on all 4 tyres and the've passed me where as Ive been in another car with a 4cm rip in the fabric on the seat and they didnt pass me. I go to VTNZ up here In Auckland where in my experience they have made alot of stuff ups Most probrably the VTNZ you got to from where ever you are are more lenient. Thats my opinion , Tree, Wrong, Barking, Up. Which VTNZ are we talking about? I've worked with Kingsland, Parnell, Glen Innes, Rosedale and Sylvia Park. All have had satisfactory results aside from the odd issue with understanding the laws around headlights and other lighting.

Fix this, your car is not speed-density, that is a vacuum leak, there's a reason they're plumbed back.

Ooooh... He's on THE rally team That attitude does not endear me to you. I don't build engines, but if I did, I certainly wouldn't charge 12k for labour when I was still trying to make a name for myself.

If you won't back up your statements with statistics and fact, why would anyone want to support you? They're certainly not going to do it based on your mastery of the written word

You didn't actually read the documents linked did you? They're not FAQs, they are the documents that have been through legal review you've mentioned Yes I did, and the standard says: "A modified vehicle is not required to be LVV certified, or further certified". Did you write the standard? Can you state, with absolute certainty, that "further certification" was intended to mean re certification through the same process? 'Cos I sure as hell can't. Hence I'd get LVVTA to clarify it first. It may seem ambiguous to you, however to a lawyer/court words such as 'further' have very distinct, defined meanings with no ambiguity.

You didn't actually read the documents linked did you? They're not FAQs, they are the documents that have been through legal review you've mentioned

Please, stop now before you make yourself look like more of a fool. VTNZ are not 'picky as', in fact I've found some small stations to be much worse (apparently my wing was loose and my exhaust too loud, wing was stock, held on so well I couldn't get it off when I needed to, exhaust was 92dB. The VTNZ up the road, no issues).

Lololol... New Zealand doesn't have damages in the same way the US does. Damages are something he won't be getting (especially since he hasn't actually incurred any quantifiable direct loss as a result of this) Given I'm not a law student or lawyer I can't explain it terribly well but basically... yeah Yeah I know... ;D But he has suffered financial loss due to an error made and there are judges who enjoy reining in over zealous enforcement. It's worthy of the Police Complaints Authority at least. I would get the LVVTA to put something in writing regarding these circumstances first though. It is in writing in the above two documents, they will hold up in court better than any hand written letter (Which he would be unlikely to get).

Lololol... New Zealand doesn't have damages in the same way the US does. Damages are something he won't be getting (especially since he hasn't actually incurred any quantifiable direct loss as a result of this) Given I'm not a law student or lawyer I can't explain it terribly well but basically... yeah

Interesting. While in conflict with existing information I would tend to agree with this, given it is the official document. For those wanting reference: http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/lvv_code/LVV_code.pdf page 10, heading of clause 2.3(3) In that case, write in and have fun, looks like the cop didn't know what he was doing. I'd also recommend carrying a copy of the current LVV Threshold Schedule and LVV Code around with you, however be aware that if you wave this in someone's face you best have nothing not-quite-legit because it will strengthen their resolve to find it My only concern are a couple of items from the LVV Threshold Schedule (http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf) These are both EXTREMELY vague and subjective and while brands like Rays, Enkei etc would definitely be seen by the courts as 'reputable brands', Something like 'Advanti' being a smaller brand may have that called into question.

If the wheels do fit the modification threshold then it doesnt need to be recerted. You are absolutely correct, provided the vehicle does not already have a certification. I have been unable to find the document I originally got this information from in my quick search now. The LVV Modification Thresholds, however, are for vehicles that do not yet have a certification. If the item is stipulated to never require a certification it will not be on your plate. If it is on the certification plate, this is, essentially law. If your vehicle differs in any way from that listed on the certification plate, the certification becomes invalid. It is unfortunate that they chose to list rim size on the plate as I don't believe it is going to be relevant in the vast majority of cases. However, I don't make the law and unfortunately I can't change that.

The circumference deal is with regards to tyres. Wheel diameter is unregulated normally. However, if you have a wheel size marked on your cert plate (And you will) you have to stick to it or get your cert adjusted. They are considering reviewing this because it's a nuisance. However, at this time, while the cop might have been being unprofessional he is within the scope of his job. [quote name='Carbon said: You need to cert when: "Wheel and tyre changes (non-OEM items), e.g. wheels wider than the bodywork, or with spacers or a different offset to the OEM design. Tyres with more than 5% greater rolling circumference than the OEM tyres." url]http://www.lvvta.org.nz/index.html[/url] The fact that you have a cert for other items shouldnt impact on other legal changes that dont require a cert. Obviously you cant put lower profile tyre / wheel combos that would impact on the existing cert causing the car to be lower to the ground. The measurement however is from the wheel center to the guard (which shouldnt change) Incorrect. If any item marked on your cert plate has been modified since certification to differ from that plate, you must update your cert. If you had read the thresholds and legislation surrounding certification you would know this.

If your cert plate says 'OE Fitment' and you have Advantis, you're probably gonna be SOL. I'd still suggest you write in, describing what happened and the way the officer interacted with you. I'm not normally in support of this sort of thing but unless you were being a complete knob-jockey towards the cop (or on the road, in that case just shut up and pay the fine) I'd have to say it was probably unjustified.

Your factory ECU runs closed loop boost control that is at least as sophisticated as the Link. touchup tunes on an open-source (who the sh!t is charging you ECUTek prices for something they don't actually have to pay for???) reflash should cost the same or less than a Link tune as the Link is pretty dumb when it comes to learning (and man you should see how easy it is to make their sh!tty software throw errors turning on features!). In any case, sell me your factory ECU since you won't be needing it anymore (all ECUs are used for open-source research purposes and no profit is made from them)

If your cert says 16s, you have to stick with 16s. If it doesn't specify then you're in the clear. I'm sure there's more to the story than this, most cops aren't like this but unfortunately I do know at least one who genuinely is. There will be a proceedure to contest this, but it will not be free, and you should take legal advice first to ensure you're not chasing rainbows

Wut... you've lost me... cooler fuel because you're using topfeeds? I think you misunderstand what causes cylinder 3 leaning.

Whether it's safe to run or not is not dependant on the MAP sensor but the tune. If you're going to run 18psi, get a wideband O2 sensor check and also check for knock (not with your ears, with a knock sensor and headphones)

Got your standard ECU somewhere? I'll take it off your hands

This will also increase injector latency which will have to be taken into account (tuning latency is a friggen pig)

Pinks are 565cc, so are decently sized, I don't anticipate you running out of fuelling before your turbo well and truly leaves its peak efficiency, as everyone else is saying

The factory ECU has a table that looks kinda like this: (in this case a modified one taken from my B4's ROM) Which it uses to determine at what MAP level it should cut fuel to the engine. It does not do so when it reaches the limit of the sensor (thank god)