Wiretap

This would make perfect sense except for the fact Subaru MAP sensors are only used for boost control and cut. Subaru ECUs are MAF driven so you have more to worry about exceeding the limits of your MAF sensor (very, very unlikely)

All the early ones are 2.5bar MAP sensors. STis (and foresters) use 3.0 or 3.5bar I can't recall exactly.

With intermittent faults it's always a pain I'm afraid, one can't 'test for failure' on something that only fails sometimes

If your radio and dash are powering down the problem is electrical, not mechanical. You can stop worrying about any engine sensors and I'd suspect your alternator. As the radio and dash are not on the main relay I'd be also inspecting the barrel switch on the back of the ignition (is independantly removable/replacable) for wear.

Didn't realise you were looking only at nz-new pics on tm. I didn't deduce that from the post.

In reality one should never run anything BUT 98 in these fussy things. 100 octane may be a myth, but the requirement for 98 in the B4 and STi isn't.

V3 V3 V4 (with 5/6 front bar) V4 V5 V6 V6

EDIT: Nope. upto V1 ALL wagons receive auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard. After this they receive whip antennas. upto V2 ALL 2.0 Sedans EXCEPT WRX, WRX-RA and STi-RA receive auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard. upto V2 Many 1.5,1.6 and 1.8 sedans and wagons receive pull-up pillar antennas. V3-on ALL sedans EXCEPT WRX-RA and STi-RA recieve auto-retracting antennas mounted in the LR guard. V3-on ALL wagons receive a roof-mounted whip antenna *all information here is drawn from this thread and personal experience EDIT: Trawled trademe and it turns out that the v2 WRX is weird and doesn't have it. Bizarre.

The LH pic is a V2 STi. The RH pic is a V2 STi RA. The WRX RA and STi RA both have pull-up pillar-mounted antennas.

My personal impression of Subaru NAs is that they're not too shabby. Okay so maybe I'm a bit biased (Own a 2.0 SOHC Impreza that now has an EZ30R in it) but I look at it this way. 1998 Subaru EJ20E, SOHC: 100kW. 2010 Volkswagen Golf GTi: 122kW. Nissan VQ30DE: 170kW Subaru EZ30R: 184kW (both stock) One of those is a DOHC turbo The other thing is, power can only help you so much, in a straight line sure, it's great... but corners are a great leveller. If you wanna make an EJ25 awsome I say go for it and let's see how it turns out. You could probably benefit from AVCS though.

Which one? Terminator Revelations, AvP Requiem, or something more sedate, say, Harry Potter 7?

Yup, you are going to have to hunt. There are unfortunately two types of 3-plug. That used by the STi and that used by NAs before 1996. The latter shares its pinning with absolutely nothing.

V3-onwards 2L (and likely other) wagons do not have a guard antenna, they have a roof mounted flexible whip antenna.

V3 non-RA has it on the LR guard. Pretty sure a fair few earlier ones do. the GF8 antenna moved from the guard to the roof in V3-on

If it's a 1995 3-plug it's worse than that, you'll have to hunt down correct pinning manually. If it's a 4-plug it should be the same as the single turbos of the era.

My exhaust system is only diff-back, and that's the troubles it caused, any more and it'll be much worse. I know of a BF5 that is running mint on its original engine at well over 300,000km by now.

Don't use an EBC on TTs, they get confused and you end up with massive boost spikes as the secondary comes in, it'll eventually pop... Rev A/B/C are mostly the same, RevD is the facelift with the newer headlights and the smarter ECU (blackout cluster, clear side indicators, etc) The high fuel consumption was as a result of having a different exhaust (dealer fitted in japan , it'd had these issues a long time) messing with the air metering (don't ask, complicated) and yes also the overboosting. They run a 64L tank, I've seen around 350L from a tank but I haven't done any long distance drivign since swapping ECUs, I'm getting around 11.2l/100km now around town by my calculations. If fuel economy is a concern, don't buy a TT

That's for thick-key cars.

I used to get between 15l/100km open road and 19l/100km around town No wonder the dealers were so keen to be rid of it.

Ignition barrel: Nope, won't fit anything that doesn't already use a thick key. Door Locks: no idea but I'm going to go with no. where can i get a blank sti key like this one? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/auction-477285251.htm just really like the key LOL Become a DOBC member, we have access to them for members only

Ignition barrel: Nope, won't fit anything that doesn't already use a thick key. Door Locks: no idea but I'm going to go with no.

Exhaust mods cause overboosting and/or detonation issues (mine was boosting 1.3-1.4bar until the ECU was swapped to a Prova tuned one, supposed to run 1.0bar) Revision is the model of the car, it's easier than referring to them by year. BE5A = RevA, 1998-1999; BE5B = RevB, 1999-2000, etc... Check the Applied Model Code under the hood for these, you're only interested in the first four digits. These things are fuel-hungry to say the least, are you concerned about gas mileage, if so I'd suggest you might want to look at the RS30 instead.

From memory all four are the same, and you need to use another of the same bolts used to attach the shifter lever to it to replace the pin. Make sure you use a locking (aka friction) nut or it'll come undone by itself... not a mistake I'll ever make twice. been there done that... here a TING driving along, NEK MINNIT shifter has detatched itself lol I had to drive 20km in 1st gear after that happened... at least it was 1st...

The trick I use with the roll-pins (and my god they're a pain in the arse, can take between upto 2 hours to remove depending how long they've been stuck in there.) is that I replace them by welding a suspension top nut (12mm head) to the upper side of where the pin slots in, that way I can just put a bolt in and tighten it down with no threat of it coming out.

It won't fit. They use a different keyway around the locking pin.