suubyduuby

Yup, can second that ('99 GTB). Maybe 500-550 on the open-road...

So I thought. Have been driving manual for ages anyway and have never done rev-matching in normal day to day driving. Quite a few non-car people have thought my Leggy was an auto when they were sitting in the back as passenger . ;D ;D I must admit, I do like heel/toe downshifting - good for open-road driving and cornering, but around town... Yep, your right. How do you guys drive manual though? I always try to downshift when stopping ie. 4-3-2 or 4-2 depending on how fast I am stopping etc I know a lot of people simply dump it into neutral and then back into 1st when pulling off - don't like this

Just wondering how many of you actually rev match on the down shift? ie. blipping the throttle while downshifting so that the car doesn't lurch when the lower gear is selected? Been reading a lot about heel/toe and watching it done, was just wondering how many people actually use this in their daily driving? Have started to practise it while out and about, and it does make the downshift a lot nicer and smoother - supposed to have positive effects on reducing drivetrain/synchro wear. Whats your ideas on this?

Hey man - I would put an inline fuse-holder in place between the ECU and the 12V rail until you find out whats causing the prob. Dunno exactly what the ECU draws (in terms of current, amps/milliamps) but doubt it is that much - that way you'll blow the fuse instead of the ECU if theres a short! ;D

Also found that when the fuel pump is dieing/on its way out, it can also blow the fuel pump fuse. I managed to survive a week or so until I got a replacement pump by replacing the fuse - not recommended though (it was an old cheap bomb of a car, not a Suuby ). Other possible causes are sticking immobiliser relays in the alarm, although not so much of problem now cos' the shift is towards 'solid-state' relays these days. Good to hear you got yr problems sorted tho.

Have you checked troubleshooting guide in the service manual? Has a great procedure for tracking down and solving electrical problems! ;D Can you identify whether the problem is with the indicator stick or somewhere further down in the murky depths behind the dash? :'( To test, I would remove the indicator stick connector from the harness it attaches to - remove it and make sure it is not electrically connected to anything else, just the connector....You can then use a multi-meter to test the switch contacts inside the indicator stalk. Once again, if you have access to the service manual for your car you'll be able to find the pinout of the connector. Turn the DMM on the continuity check feature and ensure continuity between switch contacts when the respective dial or switch is turned (represented by very low reading in Ohms, prob 0.1-1Ohm etc). If this all checks out OK, then you can safely confirm the prob is further down the line. Again ;D You'll probably need the electrical wiring diagrams in the service manual if you want to easily track down the problem through the main buses/circuit breakers/relays etc

Hey mate - see my post in the message you posted in the 'Motors & Turbo' section.

OK, first to clarify a couple of things: [*]What model is it? Leggy or Rex? And what model code eg for leggys, BG5, BE5 or Rex, GC8 etc [*]What fuel are you running? [*]When the problem occurs, does the check engine light come on? [*]When you say "No codes showing up", have you checked for stored fault codes in the ECU? Mate, I not really *the* expert when it comes to the hard-core mechanical diagnosic of the problem....HOWEVER, coming at it from a failure point-of-view --> trying to isolate the problem, I think you really want to see whats going on in terms of sensors/data coming from the ECU. If you can borrow or manage to get hold of a cable you can connect to your laptop, you can grab some software which will let you monitor the real-time sensor outputs from the ECU and keep track on injector cycling, boost, various pressures etc At least then you could start the car up and watch whats happening - esp if you reckon you've exhausted all other means and you don't really want to pay big $$$ for a mech with the gear or take it to your local Suuby dealer to plug in the 'Subaru Select Monitor'! But definately if you can let us know some details about yr car, then everyone can help u more. Thx Matt

You're right - with this setup you can vary the pulse width BUT the degree of accuracy in relation to the potentiometer is an uncertainty. This is a very simple circuit I found to easily generate PWM without a microcontroller... What I would do if I was making a proper tester is use a microprocessor to generate the PWM. Have it so you can set it to exactly 50% 75% etc and the micro WILL produce exactly that on the pulse output pin. A little tool in a black box with a screen and couple of buttons would do the trick nicely. If there was a demand for something like this, would do a run of 10 boards or so. You could also adapt it to pulse solenoids and other stuff for a timed intercooler water spray unit ;D Nice and easy-to-use general controller unit. Who knows?

Yeah as Durty-Sanchez wrote though, dunno if its a good idea to give the poor injector a full blow of 12V. Because the ECU is always pulsing them, they are very rarely if ever fully-on. However, I'm sure they would survive for a quick test. In order to 'flow-test' them, I believe you would want to vary the 'on time' of the injector and check whether it is delivering its rated flow at that duty-cycle. THat way you can accurately test their performance over a range of duty cycles (as would normally happen when controlled by the ECU). Duty-cycle is measured between 0-100% - where 0% is OFF and 100% is fully on (ie. 12VDC). In between, the 'width' of the injector pulse is varied. If the injector is on a 75% duty cycle, then your injector basically sees an average voltage of 75% of 12V = 9V. Cos the voltage is lower, the injector doesn't open fully and so-on. Same way electric water pumps and solenoids are controlled. Some diagrams: What the injector pulse timings look like A control circuit which you could use, if you're game

Hey - when you hit the OFF button on the aircon unit, does the screen power off on the unit? If it doesn't, that would suggest the button is prob faulty on the unit. Otherwise, yeah as has been suggested either air-con relay is stuck on or the relay drive circuitry inside the aircon display unit is faulty. If the button is OK on the unit and replacing the relay doesn't help, then either get a replacement unit from a wreckers or I think there's a guy on TM who recons them as well.

From memory, injector flow is determined by a contunuous stream of pulses from the ECU. The duty cycle ('on time') is varied to increase the flow of the injection spray. To test spray, you'd need to pulse the thing in a similiar way to how the ECU does it. Feeding 12V into it will put it fully on, but I guess you won't be able to test varying the injection as a normal ECU does. I could probably sort you out with a controller circuit to test it if you'd be interested?

Stumbled across these articles on a DIY intercooler water sprayer a while ago: (Autospeed Mag) Intelligent Intercooler Water Spray - Part 1 http://www.autospeed.co.nz/cms/A_0527/article.html Its a four part article, so follow the links to Parts 1-4 on the page. If you need any info on electronic control systems or Q's about how to switch the pump on a time cycle, give us a buzz as well.

I think this link was on the old site, but in case anyone's looking for the service manual for the Gen III Leggy's (2.0, 2.5 and twin-turbo motors), then this link is still good: http://rover800.gaima.co.uk/www.corptech.no-ip.org/upload/SvcManuals/GEN3%20Lib%20Svc/Liberty_1998_2003.pdf Its a fair big download, about 116MB......but its a fully-indexed PDF file, so you can sort by the different sections etc Cheers Matt http://www.badongo.com/cfile/9760545 ignore the russian brides [optional] and download the 2 parts of the pdf. ignore the 'badongo buddy' program. you want the manual method to merge the files. manual method: download the 'merger file' Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.bat (thats for windows) it sounds dodgy but i can confirm this is a simple batch file with a single binary copy string, and deletion of the part files and itself. it is safe. after downloading the 2 parts, and this merger file, run it and it will join the 2 parts and disappear. in case any ancient dos geeks are curious.. @echo off echo Starting Badongo File Merger echo Merging Files copy /b Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.aa +Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.ab Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf echo Split completed echo Removing Temporary files that are no longer needed del Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.aa del Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.ab del Liberty_1998-2003_FSM.pdf.bat echo Press the SPACE BAR TO CLOSE THIS WINDOW pause PM kamineko for any questions

(1) Pretty sure thats the L/H bank pistons. Common problem on the twin-turbo engines so I hear. As they heat up, clearance becomes normal and the sound goes away. Others have called it the dreaded 'death-rattle' . Mine's a 99 GTB and does it a little bit on cold mornings for the first 30 seconds. I wouldn't call it loud banging though, just a little 'tapping sound'. I'm sure others can elaborate more. (2) Buzzing noise? Kind of like a whistling sound? If so, that might be the factory release valve (equiv of BOV). Hard to say though, would have to hear it. (3) Boot sensor switch must be shot. Probably can pick a replacement up at a wreckers or check on TM. (4) Do any of the alarm functions work? If may need to be reset in service mode, let me know the model number and may be able to help you. (5) I know it sounds obvious, but make sure the bulbs aren't blown. Tried replacing them? (6) Is this when you have the wheels fully locked? I never like to hard lock the wheel, don't think its too good for the AWD system.

Great stuff guys. Man - missed the forum heaps!