gtlegacy

ok so have lived with this problem for the last couple of months now when i boost i only get wastegate pressure 7psi in all gears all rpm even after switch over we have changed everything we can think of pressure defferential sensor boost solenoid Black box bovs primary and secondary ecu have gone through all the lines over and over again have also tried bov line straight from intake manifold and bov line teed how it goes from factory today we tried to free boost the car to see the solenoid was actually working at all so we jst pulled the tee out of the line and left it went for a small drive and only up to 7 psi and cut out after switch over shouldnt it free boost? also went for a drive with primary bov disconnected from vacumm source and 5psi after switch over? does this sound like a problem with intercooler valve irexhaust valve? as this is all we havnt changed

that would be mattapo

id say that would do

sure

yea fair enough its obviously not his fault i jst thought of posting it up to make other people aware that it wasnt a genuine s401

gotcha ok my first attempt probaby wasnt the best i have no other photos so this will have to do seeing most cant get to where my picture was taken the entrance would be okay for the tag

finally got a chance to fully clean and get it a good polish up after having owned it for over a year with my new rims on aswell

I think hes confused my mate has a blue subaru paid $7500 just like that 1 came with (like most)the red 4 pots those bbs wheels and is the same Blue isnt any faster than a normal b4 rsk though and no different perhaps subaru painted the very last twin turbos this blue and up specd that up a little

Just for people that dont know http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/auction-343516978.htm dont these usually come with 6 speed brembos 18" bbs wheels sti dash steering wheel and different scoop etc etc? http://www.sella.co.nz/motoring/cars/subaru/7270rx/?more_info www.sti.jp/s401/main/index.html

finally got a chance to fully clean and get it a good polish up after having owned it for over a year with my new rims on aswell

ahhhhh sweet thanks for the help

ok so if they have stretched what can i do then ? just smash heaps of sealer in there?

will be pulling off this weekend and re sealing

those two pipes from the loop section where the leak is at the top were very tight to get off when i originally put them on the car id say that the gasket seal would of scraped off when i put it in how do i measure the clearence ? on or off the car ?

oh ok these ones were leaking badly first when they were cold but when warm they sealed but now they leak all the time you can feel it on your hand when you put it next to it

yea its the high temp gasket 260 had to riggle it alot to get it in so perhaps i need to put more in it to get it to work

heya, i just put but x force headers on my car heatwrapped them as much as i could up to the slip joins the slip joins have a pipe on the inside and the outside for better sealing but one still has a very slight leak when i put them on the car i put a bead of 260 gasket sealer in the join but still seams to leak a bit shud i just remove it again and try it with a ton more sealer? also was told sealer better to use than exhaust gasket sealer/cement as its more flexible to use its the pipe at the top and closest to camera at the 4-2 join

sweet as i got mine together and was running 19psi lol whats the general rule about adjusting the wastegate actuator arm ?

okay found the problem the exhaust housing had a large crack on the underside where the mount was on the clamping section got a new housingand measured it and the gap is the same its like the seat isnt deep anough of the collar where the clamp goes isnt thick enough but all lines up and had no problem with it wehn i ran it just has about 0.5mm gap between both faces

Rage is made my autobend in CHCH i bought mine from there 6 months ago and very happy with them and they arent to expensive and good quality mandrel bent can buy from partsco.com or partsco member on trademe the twin turbo set up they sell is either for manual or auto the difference is in the y pipe the part numbers are BB3036 and BB3037 for the rage downpipes that suit all twin turbos and all are divorced wastegate type or siamese (seperate pipe for wastegate to help remove turbulence) the y pipes are BB3040 for rsb rs gt or gtb in manual 94-98 BD and BG BB3105 for the auto versions of these cars BB3042 is for B4 in auto and im pretty sure that the bb3040 will fit B4 in manual but not 100% sure the guy at autobend reckoned that it does fit also the mid section is all the same for BD and BG Chassis not sure if it will fit the b4 as different at the back of car the actual downpipes are all the same and both have the divorced wastegate pipes that join halfway around the first bend

yea tried that but it doesnt seem to want to go any further even cleaned it up with a wire brush

i was putting my td05h 16g together tonight i have the exhaust housing off another of the exact same turbos as mine never came with one anyways i was putting it together and i couldnt seem to get it to fit right up hard on the 2 faces for CHRA and the exhaust housing can get it to about 1mm and it seems to semi get tight but not really seat this isnt right is it? as far as i can tell the small heat sheild washer thing is tight

ok my mate has a b4 that was auto tipronic with ej206 motor has converted to manual and used all of the manual parts including complete loom under dash etc etc also has a ej20h bottom end with b4 heads and head gasket to get the compression correct or close to we have been running 98 and testing we have had a few problems with check engine lights but have corrected them but still has airbag light on as broken clock spring on drivers side anyways it was only boost up to 7 psi on primary and secondary which is wg pressure so we changed to the manual in gaurd solenoid and checked all the lines and they were correct the only problem is now we get boost and and it goes up to 16psi on primary and then when it goes to change over it changes and boosts up to 10psi then just cuts out and we get code 66 Twin turbo system but if u dont go WOT when it chnages it boost to 12 psi fine we know everything works properly as before he chnaged the car over to manual with parts from his old manual b4 that he crashed it went fine is it worth trying to use another black box to see if that is the problem has anybody experienced that before?

oh right so how would i run it using a v3 sti ecu and the twin turbo/v3-4 boost solenoid?

nah its for when i do my single conversion i have a sti v3 ecu for that