gtlegacy

ok its a gtb and it got ej20r sti bspec gearbox and yellows etc thanks for the help guyz he was looking at the injector plugs lol

this seems stupid though because arent the gtbs and rsb meant to be the high power version if they mnauals so y would they put grey injectors in there? if its a gtb what should the chassis code be bg5a bg5b or bg5c? and yea joker what you talking bout? 20psi at 3k?

its got bilsteins and the gtb bilstein sticker dual electric sunroofs (gtb only perhaps) if it was a gtb it wud only be able to run the yellows and ornage afm because thats the only ecu that will fit it to make it go?

but shudnt if its a gtb manual have an ej20r with smooth cam covers?

Heya, My mate is looking at buying a White 1996 Legacy GTB Factory Manual as far as i see it the car should have EJ20R Engine sti v3-4 Bspec gearbox yellows bigger turbos vf 18 and 19 bigger axles 4.444 ratio and 3 plug ecu but what he told me was that it had grey injectors ??? I dont get that it cant be standard can it? or do some have the greys and the better ej20h motors?

ok sweet ive got all the wiring sorted there just one thing im confused on http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#start for the neutral switch do i still need to find and cut a wire like pin 18 on B36 plug ? this link is for a bc5 conversion from auto to manual ? its got something to do with power still going to the luster can i not just chnage from the auto dash to the manual ?

right im converting an Auto rsb into a manual using a GT wagon BG5 Also if we use a plug and play fitting b15 on auto interior to bay loom to manual b15 plug on the gearbox im making that shorts pin 11 and 12 and connects the neutral and reverse switches all i have to know is compared with a bc5 is the b36 pin 18 the same and does it need to be cut still ? or can i just swap a manual rsb dash in? and not worry about it? Neutral switch The neutral switch's operation is pretty simple. Tell the ECU & TCU (if automatic) that the transmission is not in gear. However, the wiring is different between the two transmissions. On the manual transmissions, one lead going into the neutral switch is grounded. The other end goes to pin 10 of B58. The ECU supplies a voltage to the circuit. When the transmission is in neutral the neutral switch is open, so the voltage at pin 10 would be 8v or higher. When the transmission is put in gear, the neutral switch closes and the voltage reading would be 0v. The automatic's wiring is actually backwards. The automatic cars have the gear selector indicator on the dash. The neutral circuit goes like this. Power is supplied to the combination meter. It's then routed through the bulb that displays the "N" on the dash, and ties into the wiring going to pin 1 of the B15 connector. Pin 1 of the B15 connector is also tied to the ECU & TCU. Pin 4 of the B15 connector is connected to ground. When the inhibitor switch is moved to the neutral position, the circuit is completed to ground. When this happens, current will flow through the bulb in the combination meter, and the bulb will light up. The ECU again supplies a voltage at the neutral switch pin. When the circuit is grounded, the voltage reading at pin 10 of the B58 connector will be 0v. The question is, "How do we get the manual transmission neutral switch to work properly?" For the most part, you can just swap the appropriate leads on the transmission connectors. The only issue with that is the back-feeding of power through the "N" bulb in the combination meter. So what I did was snip the wire at pin 18 of the B36 connector that came from the combination meter. This eliminated any back-feeding of power into the neutral switch circuit and caused it to function properly for the manual transmission setup. I connected pins 1 and 4 of the B15 AT connector to pins 1 and 3 of the B15 MT connector. I again used the two wiring harnesses I cut off the donor car and old transmission, and wired up a "plug and play" harness. The blue B36 connector is located behind the lower kick panel under the dash on the driver's side. It's actually part of a three connector plastic piece that is bolted to the car via the lower nut that holds on the ECU.

Heya, im looking into upgrading my rear end of my car a little i have made subframe lock bolts and im looking at getting an adjustable ARB what size is best for this? 22mm or 24mm (its just a road car) obviously ill get new bushes for mounting and links also what would be the most beneficial upgrade in the area of bushes? the 4 control arms? the 2 long arms that head forward from rear end? diff t BAR locking rings? also im wondering what are the best ? noltec (supposed to be 25% softer) but isnmt that mean to be the whole point that the rubber is hard as nolathane or any others? are there any other bushes that should be checked and upgraded while im at it?

so will the manual driveshaft from the wagon fit the sedan?

ok at some stage in a couple of weeks im going to do a mnaual conversion for a mate on his auto rsb he has a donor gt wagon which is manual will the manual driveshaft from the wagon fit the rsb sedan? also what else do i need to do thats tricky i know all the wiring stuff i just cant remember if the driveshafts ae different from sedan to wagon in the manual version will be changing the rsb to the 4.111 final drive ratio gearbox and the rear diff also

what brand are the 050's?

per corner lol sorry

yea ok sorry i just wanted a quick idea and what i could find at the time wasnt what i was after but thankls for the help my budget is probably about $250 max how do those 050 tyres last ?

Heya, im in need for new tyres for my wof what are the best tyres for general driving and occasional track work? just after a few opinions Cheers

quoted from telemekas "From the VF33 you just need the turbine housing and the wastegate actuator. The turbine housing will need to be scrolled out or high flowed to take the larger TD04L wheel. Once that is done put the TD04L CHRA onto it and orientate the the original position as the VF33 was in . Install the actuator. Have the wastegate ported within tolerance of the existing flapper or ideally a larger porting with new bigger flapper" so does this mean that the front is td04 and the back is td04 just with a smaller housing? to spool it up faster than a standard td04?

i have vf20 and vf27 anyways more about these td04s? can i say just buy 2 off trademe from v7 wrxs? and swap the front wheels and covers from both turbos onto the centre and back half of my twin turbos? and get them rebalanced ? because as it seems there would really be no point in swapping 2x td04s onto my car (lag city)? but i dont see how a 2.5 can spool it at say 2000rpm and a 2.0 at 5000rpm? would it be more like 3500-4000? but i guess when my twin stays in the secondary mode it takes ages to spool up both turbos again

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blow_off_valve read this it explains everything

does anyone know if this works or not? wagon seats to sedan

http://www.carldavey.co.uk/article.php?id=4 please read this mainly it shows you where you get the larger 440s for decapping but also what the 2 different types of injector look like (you can identify them but looking at the injector cover) also my mate has a gen 1 legacy dohc ej20 non turbo with the large body red injectors factory so could be another place to find some also this place has parts so you can adapt different types of injectors into your rails and different spcaers etc for your subaru

still does the miss but about 17 psi will gap the plugs tonight

i just took the 2mm spacers i had between the wastegate actuator and the housing to preload the wastegate out and it boosted to 16psi fine with no hesitation it is 21degrees at the moment in it position that when the boost comes up that the wastegate is trying to control it but cant so it puts a cuts the motor out? i also should mention that i still have the factroy boost pill in

oh ok but the weird thing is that it never missed like that even when i raped it hard and its just getting worse and worse like down to 15-16psi when it was doin 19-20-psi easily

chnaged the fuel pump and it made no difference and it happens in any gear at around 16psi

has anyone had anything similar? it seems really weird to me that changing the knock sensor could make the problem different as first it seemed to almst go onto 3 cylinders when the cut came in but after then it was more just a miss or similar to cold hesitation might change back to factory n see if that makes a difference 4g rsb ecu and factory exhaust with cats no preload on wastegate and see how i go

ok so what your saying is that it could be a load cut? as i would do it rear bad onto the straight at ruapuna but would also do it top of 2nd gear out of the dipper i also did a battery reset and the car seams fine now but will back boost down a little bit