reaperblitz

Pressure drop shouldn't be too bad considering and comparing the front mount designs requiring which require more pipe and a significant distance from turbo to manifold. As for turbulence within the I/c? I doubt there would be much that would affect temperature as air is forced from one end to the other and by design hot air rises and heat gets transferred -> out.

Aap or trademe might be cheaper for mesh of they've got it in stock

Can be quite a difference if it's just an area rather than ie panel and lap over. Worst case it will look like a light patch Or dark patch depending on prep and primer used

Next dumb question- why is there so much misinformation or incorrect classification and facts about our subie models on the net. I understand there are euro, jap, usdm spec models. Though not many websites have made the distinction. For example- I think wiki mentioned that only the v4 Sti was the first engine with forged pistons?? Also for the same car/spec- why are horsepower numbers are all over the place. There's only one site (cars catalogue) that I trust looking at specs.

^ and the media use these labels to bring their audience together. "us and them". It's for their ratings as well too ya know.

Depends. Mine was almost like it was embedded into the paintwork so no amount of cut n polish could save it Will get a Touch up respray after a few more mods

Nice build! Lots of reading material lol. Quite keen on having one for the forester over a front mount/ Sti upgrade top mount. Would like to understand/ see an 'oven' test or temp dissipation simulating temperatures coming from/ off an engine to temperature lost or gained in the Intercooler. Just based on the last test done and coming to the conclusion that the bigger unit can store more heat to whether it can loose that heat just as fast with the engine/ bay temperature variable

Yup Yup. All the best with your decision. Too bad you cant really try before you buy. Maybe if you go to one of the meets you can ride shotgun in some of the other setups and see how it feels to give you a hands on experience of what different setups feel like.

regassing and testing costs 250 a corner tho.. whats the point in that when for $2-300 more you can get a full kit of adjusties brand new or at 250 a corner you can get some bilsteins or kybs set up (non height adjustable just like those) but brand new and made with your requirements in mind.

Ps still keen on Sti wagon shocks n springs if so do me good deal n I luff u long tym Lol

Lol must be sorcery. I have armrests in back seats as well as backrests to be adjustable. Luxury and peeeeemPness. Dunno what it means for practicality- I barely have had anyone in the backseats except when testing the stereo

You can also get the boy ricers- the ones that drive fartbox auto with 4inch muffler tip and hella ugly in car lights with stupid wings or accessories that accelerate really loudly and go no where that try race you at each set of lights. Sometimes it gets to the point where I just wanna flick that switch (does lauch control and ups boost) and really sets them straight but then that makes you just as bad as them right?

Sorry in advance - just skimmed the post but would you have anything in the 5x100 16inch x 7 or 8 width for a forester? I quite like a few styles on the site but really unsure of the offset to dish effect (even with the use of the calculator on the site) Mind you, there isn't much demand for going smaller or retaining the same Oem size wheel with just a wider rim

Don't get kings. They sag. It's yuck and screws your handling later on. Get some well known set of springs with good reviews. Tein, Jamex, etc Or gimme your shocks and get some adjusties :-X

I'd like a rear one if you find two - but question - does your rear seats have adjustable backrests? And if so, will it affect how low it will go having the rear brace in

I would really like damper only adjustable shocks. I had a tein set in my civic. Dropped it perfectly and ride was perfect- only needed to set it on soft setting. Now for a pair like that for the forester- that would drop it just right Is your o2 Sti the wagon? Il have your suspension lol!! The reds would be perfect with a tein spring upgrade (especially in my car) ;D

Stock with snorklectomy!!

Lol posting account details online isnt very safe.. Especially with how easily it is to get the rest of someone elses details on here :

vacuum leak...?

Poor maintenance, i.e lack of oil changes and also low grade fuel are causes BEB failure. Use the best for the best. Right?

Thanks. Appreciate it

Side note- would using a direct 12v power to your head unit (instead of via loom) increase volume and aerial signal / reception? The car is a forester but this is the first time iv used a harness to loom setup versus a fused 12v straight from battery. I mean if it doesn't get better, il just run all speakers off an amp instead of off the H.U

@fozze- Nope, not at the moment. It seems I fix something then something else needs doing. Well I guess il just have to go ahead with plans and bring it forward a few months earlier. STi engine replacement and a whole bunch of money from outta my pocket ;(

Octane tint was somewhat a let down for me. It was a bit lighter than the back but it was the closest match. It made the overall car feel wierder (not 100% right) but surprisingly it wasn't as Hot. Iv had midnight express before and it's the darkest looking tint at the legal 35%. Like if you didn't know - tint comes in different colours. -Midnight black is a dark purple almost black -Octane is a dark blue/ grey -reflective tint is like light blue But that's only putting it in simple terms etc. not exactly accurate

Fixed forester clock - super easy. Fit new headunit - had to solder and heatshrink all connections to new harness as old one was fit dodgy by previous owner...(and I hate crimping) Fixed loose connection in a spliced wire to boost gauge (loss of light) Now what to do