jacsmiley

so im guessing the test you have stated is for a 2wire O2 sensor? and that the 3rd wire on a 3wire sensor is the heating circuit? im trying to "chase" a reason for excessive fuel consumption and i can only put it down to the O2 sensor. plugs leads, oil, tire pressures/alignment are fine. only uses half a litre of oil every 8k so mechanically it seems fine. i should be able to go from hamilton to napier (300k) in less than half a tank. im using nearly 3/4 of a tank and have the usual traveling gear on board. ive done the trip over 30times in various cars in cluding my old rex and new one and the new rex uses the most turbo was new 40k ago

WTF haha yeah was a bosch cam belt and it had models of cars it was for including a V6 3.0l toureg

hey mate my last belt had 277 teeth forester/legacy/outback/wrx/vw toureg

haha! making me feel a bit better cheers

having just done my own cambelt (98 STI typeR) the trick is to get a pin to put in the old tensioner before you loosen anything. that way with the belt off you can check the bearing and re-use if nessesary, easy. my water pump was mint, the idlers were mint, so i just replaced the tensioner and belt. allthough you cant be sure that the old tensioner will last another 100k ive budgeted to do a cambelt every 2-3years regardless of Ks (ive had the car 4months and done 12k already! but wont do that every 4months i hope) so i may just do the belt and water pump next time or the belt and idlers if the pump is still mint. its not that hard and for the sake of un-doing two hose clamps/fan plugs/top rad supports the radiator is nothing to pull out. if you have a good mate in the parts buisness that can help. get all the parts (idlers waterpump tensioner belt coolant oil and filter while your there) return what you dont use and pay for what you do. if not, buy the belt and prepare to have the car off the road for a few days till you get the parts you need to replace assuming that money is the issue here?? cost me under $400 for belt, tensioner, oil & filter, radiator coolant. $700 if i added waterpump, idlers, plugs & leads if it costs me $400 every 3years thats $11 a month which i think is a small cost to keep my top end and potentially my motor rah rah rah hope ive been of some help ;D

i have my old one at home ill check when i get home and post it from memory its one of the longest and no one has said any different but the ej20 DOHC (sorry boostin lol) regardless of the aspiration or model its in should be the same cambelt. just different tensioners/water pumps/idlers etc..

yeah i know what it is but no one says that it will eventually f-out or weather its doing damage, weather it should be replaced before it does damage to other parts. i do know that it is incorrect matching of the piston and even subaru got it wrong from the factory but still...

sorry guys and gals but i did try to "search function" this topic but still dont have a resolution i had my first sti gc8 rebuilt and it never knocked when cold my new cg8 has been rebuilt and has a terrible cold knock and has to fully warm up before the knock goes away! i have blown 3 sti gc8's in my time and this one could be my 4th but im treating it well to make it last my question is..... is it really "normal" for it to knock this bad? (i know what the bearing knock sounds like having done 2 myself, it sounds quite similar) will it get worse even though im being "nice" to it? or should i start saving some pennys to fix something that may not need to be fixed? lets face it... we didnt buy our subarus to drive them "nice" all the time.