jacsmiley

dont do it unless youre prepared to replace things. trust me. welding the center diff is the hardest part. if you continue with the conversion make sure you replace the rear trailing arm bushes with either solid bushes, replace whole trailing arms that already have solid bushes or rose jointed trailing arms. good rear shocks or adjusties will help with axel tramp too

it has a nz rego holder in the window and what looks to be a nz warrant sticker but not 100% visible dam bet you he feels a bit stink!! haha

yup V6 has a kind of step-up. so 2 plains.

are those the DTM rims? Yup DTM 099 BRZ. i didnt have the center cap in coz they look ugly

my V5 had standard shocks with low king springs thats with 18in wheels. perfect ride hight and all around drivabilty. if you dont want to muck around with different spring rates etc then new shocks with lowered spring is the way to go. remember you dont just slap in a set of adjusties and leave them... the top hats take abuse and need servicing/replacing as road driving you tend to find bucket loads more bumps than the track. at least on the track you learn to know where the bad bumps are im with the lowered standard suspention lot. if you dont need the adjustability then stay standard type coils. good looks and a much more comfy ride

is all your intercooler pipping and BOV properly clamped/closed? if theres a boost leak it can cause the surging/stalling. does it do it when stationary while trying to give it gas? im just asking as those symptoms are the same somtimes when you unplug the AFM and the CPU may think that AFM isnt doing its job because you could have a boost leak http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/3%20-%20DOHC%20ENGINE.PDF try this link. it helped me heaps but was ok with trouble shooting

+1

first thing as sultan said is the ecu get that first and go from there. you have to remember that the ECU doesnt give two shtts what motor it is controlling. it measures and controls accordingly. a correct and propper tune wil actually put less stress on your internals while giving you an increase in power through efficiency alone. the non turbo head gaskets could be an issue tho, but the compression can be compensated for in the tune. me i would sort the brains and fuel (pump, injectors, reg etc) together, along with the usual exhaust intake mods etc etc etc and leave it as is.

i wouldnt see a problem but there is still a bit of grey area as to what youre asking about the STI lsd. dont worry bout the dccd that should be sweet. youre just swapping the open center of the front diff to an lsd unit right? using the original crown wheel etc?? if it doesnt change the ratio from 4.1 and youre running a 4.1 rear diff then you should be sweet. make sure the sti unit came out of a g/box that was 4.1 it may be a R160 crown wheel but it could be a 4.444. make sure the lsd have an identical crown wheel do you have a dccd?

yesterday replaced a snapped axel. and do you think its easy to find anything to do with having a R180??!! lets just say i have a very good mate who helped me out

haha opps sorry yeah couldnt remember been a couple months since i touched that

24mm i think. shit i think it is. cant remember but sure it 24

haha my old ex lancer all ways got a hiding cold. i had to pull onto a 100k road everymorning and i never warmed it up! i tell you the old mitsi 4G11 1250cc took some abuse

haha know the feeling!! i rekon start the car, run in kiss the mrs goodbye, put shoes on, pat the dog shut the gge door and drive off nicely off boost under 3krpm

yes. you need to know if the new gb has the same final drive as the old one first. if the center diff was the cause of the binding then thats a straight forward swap. but if it is because the front and rear final drives were different then you will have the excact same issue after you change the center diff.

sounds like its going to have to come out man it may be the correct replacement but sounds like something is very wrong i'd get the gb number off the bell housing and check that ref against the ref on you roriginal gb. theres gb charts on here. you may have the same gb but for a different spec car. eg: 4.111 ratio diffs all round. but the new gb you got may have 4.444 ratio center and front which wont suit the 4.111 at the back. even tho it came out of a legacy gx

cheers ichi wiring diagram showed me the colour cables that were ment to to the cam sensor. yes i had the cam/injector plugs swapped around!! > > so angry and so happy at the same time

also should there be 11.6ohm between the sensor and the ecu?

really?? so unplug the alt and try to crank it? and the front injector has a way shorter cable than the cam sensor so im pretty sure a have that correct

wow thanks for the help. will go look at these options tonight!

i think the multimeter needs a new set of batts from all the usage its had ive run into that brick wall and its hurts

yup they're apart of the cast when the cam wheel was made (one piece) yes thats on the right cam too

after doing a short block replacement i now have a "gremlin" under my bonnet!!! i little electrical one! absolutely no spark whatsoever fault code 13 [one long "pause" 3short] cam sensor yes all earths are connected. yes i have taken the radiator and front cambelt covers off to check timing etc for the 2nd time after 1st fitting it yes i have tried 3 crank sensors (but didnt flash fault code for it) yes i have fuel yes i have tried 3 cam sensors. one came off a working wrx ive even borrowed an ecu to eliminate the possibility of my ecu being fried, and that ecu flashed fault13 now this is where it gets tricky. and i hope the person out there who has been here done this is watching and will throw me a freaken bone!!!!!!!!! im all barred up and turning blue!! i have power to coil, both crank/cam sensors, all injectors. no signal to coil from ecu hence no spark i have continuity from the ecu to the coil. and from the ecu to the cam sensor cant be a relay, all fuses are sweet. *pulled radiator out (didnt fill it this time) 3rd time to tripple check cam belt timing* i could now do a cambelt in an hour start to finish no breaks could there be a posibility of tracking or conductivity failure "under load" in the cable or cam sensor plug somewhere between it and the ecu?? the cam sensor switches, and seems sweet (3rd one from a working wrx). anyone know if the sensor is ment to have a specific output voltage while sensing the cam gear remembering that i tried another ecu whiched flashed the same code #13, can anyone help before i start spining that meter at the auto sparky??

Nah buy a BMW M3. then you have race pedigree. and the option to have manual gear shift tho the new teco in euros is pretty mean! (dual clutch) the "auto" 911 turbo sprints quicker than the manual

i cant even drive mine to get a warrent due this month!