that'll be next step hah : I also wanna do the Push in version and the ROH one I have that's unobtainable   happy to run 5c (or so) PLA replaceable's once I get going hah (I was just thinking I should just order a set to get print & Posted today hah snap)

I found this https://xcceleration.com/pinouts/Subaru pinouts/ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) - Single Swap.pdf and looks like adding wires for TPMs and it’s ground is needed. Possible the pins or wire is damaged or a joint cracked that won’t show up when the car isn’t moving.   I was thinking alternatively you may not have an electrical issue. Maybe you have a split in a vacuum or boost line that opens up and stuffs up the idle.You could get the same with worn spark leads when they get hot. Anything that drops revs outside where the ecu target is and throws an error. So a leak when the ecu is trying to idle down would throw an error for idle control as that’s what it is doing. It can’t predict air leaks.   Have you checked and replaced the throttle butterfly closes fully?   I’d also remove the ecu case and check the capacitors for leaks.

Yup, was thinking similar - this Bc5 was originally Auto - the Ecu is from a Manual WRX Ver1 (Z4 ECU) The Idle switch is built into the TPS and is functioning fine and not throwing a code (it did throw a idle switch code until i adjusted the TPS with a multimeter to spec volages with the car on, that fixed the idle switch code)   I got right under the dash with flashlight to have a look and there is no corresponding plug that the blue plug on the accelerator pedal to plug into - really scratching my head on this one    Im guessing the ECU does have an input for the Accelerator Pedal Switch, otherwise it wouldnt know to throw the code for it   Bit odd though because I owned and drove the car for ages without it throwing a code for the Accelerator Pedal Switch    As for Vacuum lines - what vacuum lines are you referring to?    Z4 ECU Wiring Diagram doesnt show any additional input for any unknown sensor except (Self Shutoff Control)    Let me know if you spot anything       

Well it could be: for the automatic ecu, just on the body loom. used as alternative for idle switch  a brake switch Are there any wires in your ecu that should be unpopulated compared to the diagram? That may not be an exact match. Look for ones that match that plugs colours first. Have you checked and replaced any of those small vacuum lines?  

Just remember your car is likely only 175wkw now so 210wkw is a noticeable gain. My manual 2L was only 185wkw stock tuned with rebuild engine. Most coolers work fine but, Ive always used the tube and fin single pass type coolers. like this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006803498379.html Just find a size big enough that you can P clamp to the lower rad support and maybe the center or side supports. They are low density fins so don’t block much flow so more air goes through them rather than around. Plus they have the lowest restriction to flow for the gearbox pump. The pipes are reasonably thick so don’t get hole as often from stones or rubbish hitting them. I always put in sideways with inlet at the bottom and the out at top so the bubbles bleed out upwards and nothing gets caught in the loops.  Just remember a cheap set of 17” wheels and secondhand semislicks will likely make more difference on track than those power upgrades. I always get motul 660 brake fluid as late braking can push temps very high with smaller brakes.