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Showing content with the highest reputation since 23/08/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    lol that's my old car Except I didn't have chromies for the homies
  2. 7 points
    I don’t mean to sound like a prick, but a headshop or shop that’s doing heads and don’t know or can’t find the clearances for said heads, probably shouldn’t be doing the job... instead of asking the customer for answers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 6 points
    Had it on the Dyno Friday. Had a couple of issues. Basically, fuel injector clinic 1650cc e85 injectors have really bad short pulse control. Cheap injector, don't recommend. The exhaust strangled it, and I have a huge amount of pressure drop across the intercooler. Like nearly 4psi. Plan of attack: New intercooler. Adrenaline r 3inch tail section (or similar, quiet is good but needs to flow well) Get some id1300x's Retune. As it is, it's a hoot to drive (safe tune) but it's... No where close to what the target was
  4. 6 points
    So I did a thing today and bought another project car. Thanks @Jono24! A few shots of her while i wait to board the Interislander.
  5. 5 points
    Soz the pics aren't that great... this was 10 years ago now.... Was on the above Konig wheels for a few months... then some c*** decided they wanted them more than me..... (I guess someone was doing me a favour.... I didn't really like the Konigs anyway) So insurance let me pick the Advantis below There's even a vid of it on youtube lol
  6. 5 points
    check that your gf / wife / partner isn't lying down in the back seat, often the source of most whining
  7. 5 points
    If anyone is yet to try one, highly recommend going on a Gumboot Rally. I've been on at least 5 and enjoyed every single one. Two days of a selection of NZ's best driving roads, with optional gravel sections, and some of the best people you'll ever meet. If you're interested: www.gumbootrally.com
  8. 5 points
    @wrcfan21 if you are still looking to get your engine done bring it in and we'll get it sorted for you. I know it is a fair distance but it's well worth it for a solid engine that will give you no troubles. If you have any more questions flick me a message or give us a call again. Can arrange to get car or engine picked up as well. Thanks Pat
  9. 4 points
    Bought some bloody expensive shiny bits. Bodged em together, shoved em into the car. That required the bumper to come off, and the intercooler to come out. And the aircon condenser to be unbolted. Bolted it all in, poked some hoses around the place, pressure tested it, and whallah, 10 row oil cooler installed and pressure tested. Just as I was starting to put the car back together the heavens opened and in the urgent pack up I got drenched. Need to get some heat shielding between the headers and the lines, as the Kevlar shielding I bought with the lines won't quite cut the mustard. Deleted front o2 sensor too, as the link doesn't talk to it. Tune on Friday.
  10. 4 points
    Drove it 800km on a mixture of gravel and tarmac on some of Northland's best roads
  11. 4 points
    Thats what she said 🤣🤣🤣
  12. 4 points
    Update. Have decided to make a ported Subwoofer box . ( @boon's recommendation) I got some 18mm MDF and cut bits of wood using a design (below). Have finished cutting, gluing and screwing all the bits together. Im not that good at woodworking so there are some rough areas. I have felt carpet for the exterior and also polyester to line some of the inside. Design: http://ddaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/12_compact_size.pdf My Photos: Looks pretty rough but for a first time its not tooo bad. I actually have some nicer MDF I just got (after I cut out these peices) so im tempted to make another box, maybe another design. I rather enjoy making these things. The extra bit poking out the back is so the box pushes against the back of the seat making it more secure. My brother cut and folded some of these for mounting it.
  13. 4 points
    Ok haven’t spent much time around the car and build lately but repost from the 500kw build. Kind of want it done mid October or I’ll run into other things I need to get sorted. Wiseco boostline rods are top of list, as well triangles are structurally awesome (without the O) Plus rated to 2000hp so no chance they will bend or break. RCM 12/14mm studs means no head modification and just tapping the block out. Since that is the only soft metal there is no reason to go 14mm as s99 steel should not stretch unless the engine s***s itself. I was going ARP but the prices are way too high for the 11mm let alone anything bigger. More I’ve seen from overseas that pinning and line honing the crank journals is a must. EFR7163 is here and needs to be ceramic coated then heat wrapped in alloy ceramic alloy sandwich heat shield. Has the dual port turbosmart wastegate actuator all fitted. GFB makes a vent to atmosphere valve for the EFR now so can keep the pssh noises. Thinking to that I will keep the EFR boost solenoid. Exhaust needs a bit or work still to make it straight through not quad tipped. Even though it is titanium smaller AdrenalinR one naught sound better. Luckly I don’t have to drive to work as that pitch stop still sounds like s*** vibrating the firewall. Intercooler is still a big unknown. Really want to go water cooler and no bonnet scoop 😱🤬 yes yes, special place in hell awaits I know.
  14. 3 points
    Sup Team, little late to party but here it is. Current list. 05' Silver EZ30D 5EAT Wagon 2.5 inch full exhaust, headers back. One middle resonator and flexible bellow. Magnaflow mufflers. 3" Stainless tips Tein flex Z coilovers/ certed. Front -2deg camber, Rear -2.2 deg Kudos tokyo, 18" x 8.75" + 38..... 225/40/18 (Front rolled) Whitleine Rear Sway bar. 20mm 2 way blade adjustable. Disc Brake Aus T2 Slotted rotors (all round) C-plus ceramic pads, BNT Thule wingbar roof rack. JVC double din stereo and reverse camera. Let me know if anyone is keen to see? Full kicker sound system, (6.5" doors, 600Wamp & 12" sub) Mainline dyno custom tune, 98RON 148.9KW ATW (chart available) Please reply to the thread and post pics of your own cars. Keen to see!!!! Lets go, _SBD0897-8 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0886-5 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0877-3 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0873-2 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0872-1 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0907-11 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0906-10 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD0911-12 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr
  15. 3 points
    IMG_20190920_203033-2 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr IMG_20190920_201057-1 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr IMG_20190920_225023-1 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr _SBD1007-3 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr
  16. 3 points
    @Batbaruman Definately something soon, revs and driving right? Tunnel??? This is mine atm, 3.0R 2.5" headers back, magnaflow mufflers. _SBD0877-3 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr
  17. 3 points
    I'd be looking to reinstate pcv... Rear ports on the head should go to catch can. Front ports should tee together and to the right hand side crank case breather if you have it, as a pressure balance system. The pcv should also go back to the catch can, and there should be a consistant vacuum on the catch can. Or you could set up some sort of exhaust Venturi to put vacuum on the can, I'm sure there was talk of that previously, along with a soopercooler....lel
  18. 3 points
    I'm a fan of easy fixes so this sounds like a decent idea. Although if it runs do a compression test before you celebrate
  19. 3 points
    Booked my BP5 Legacy in at the doctors tomorrow to get the passenger window door lock actuator replaced. The dealer I bought my car is footing the bill and supplied me with a small electric motor. I'll laugh if he has supplied me the wrong part. I pity the fool who gets on the wrong side of my local SubLab, they're pretty hard case people. The benefit of living on the West Coast (South Island) is that a lot of insurance companies and dealers don't have service networks set up here so I always get to choose my repairer and always point them to my local SubLab.
  20. 3 points
    Not sure about Ethanol differences but I know that the BE5/BH5 Engines love it when I bought my BE5 Twin turbo a while back it had been running on 95 and as expected it sounded like there were marbles in the engine lol Once I switched to NPD100 it immediately stopped pinging and even felt more responsive Also here in Nelson its actually cheaper than BP98 by about 20 cents so its a no brainer for me not to use it here
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
    New LED fog light vs original also new lip
  23. 2 points
    Most rtv will break down when exposed to fuel so I wouldn't recommend that. Usually when that happens you would need to replace the sensor but your solder idea sounds like it could work. The same thing happens with the avcs cam sensors where they leak internally and force oil up the wire between the copper and the insulator. If you don't do anything about it the fluid will keep going along the wire until the next point it can escape.
  24. 2 points
    Don't think they ever changed anything, no evidence of any real changes to the castings after the move to dual avcs. Chances are the temp variance was within spec for stock power levels and it's only once pushing things that it starts to really show up. The only one I know of that they tweaked was the V7 spec C which got a completely different casting for The right hand head due to coolant limitations apprently. Normal was RHS20V but the Spec C got RHC, left head stayed the same with the LHS20V
  25. 2 points
  26. 2 points
    Thank you, Yea tune was recent, only since feb this year. I can recommend tunetechnic 100%, all custom rom work. 20190919_123204-1 by Andrei Gumtau, on Flickr
  27. 2 points
    So wait.... are you using a genuine Subaru sensor or a "probably compatible" alternative? When I said "did you get a 22633AA210" I meant "Did you get a genuine Subaru part, numbered 22633AA210, not some knock-off turd" The compatible alternate is 22633AA140, note 140, not 240. For bits like this, don't f*** around with aftermarket alternatives. We're talking about a $100 part here.
  28. 2 points
    Always a helpful nugget of info, need it brought up to ol' south auckland, and yes thankfully still drivable Thanks for the recommendation, will send him a pm shortly 🤙
  29. 2 points
    Read the discussion around page 48 +- a few pages. Lots of good stuff 🤔
  30. 2 points
    Well against the odds the engine still roars into life - THANKFULLY Appears that in the previous cambelt replacement, the waterpump was not replaced and some of the idlers were not replaced either. From what it appears, the waterpump seized completely, and one of the idlers was somewhat destroyed, hence the belt didnt actually fully break, just lost tension and melted in places. Must have been serious heat as were lots of burn marks on the tensioner as well. Luckily I had the new cambelt kit on hand so all is back.
  31. 2 points
    From what we know it's just a detune. Various head and block part numbers cross over between the two which indicates no difference
  32. 2 points
    Have you found any seized idlers/ bearings? Something else touching the belt? Seems crazy it would just snap unless something was wearing it down or jammed somewhere. Agree with A_J_T, they are the same engine so shouldn't have any real problems swapping them over. Then pull the other one apart and see what went wrong.
  33. 2 points
    For what it's worth, I've been through this on my 06 WRX and fixed it elcheapo: -Cancelled error codes through OBD2 -Pulled fuse on pump (it was fricken noisy from the bearing rusting out from too much moist exhaust air) -Made blanking plates and jammed them inbetween 2 pipe junctions between valve and pump. Advantage of doing that it you don't have to remove half the intake and IC to get to the valves. Valves still there, jammed open or closed, it doesn't really matter. Never had any probs since. About 5 years ago.
  34. 2 points
    There's a huge hole in the front of it.... aaaaaand there's a massive port in the back of it 😛
  35. 2 points
    https://www.google.com/maps/placelists/list/TcDwaoiqWuTdb9IXYZREEEkTUHBOAA?hl=en Speaking of npd 100 octane, when I did a road trip around the South Island a couple months ago I compiled a google maps list of all the npd stations with 100 available. I thought someone else may also find this useful. Most of these stations I have been to and can verify they do have 100 octane. The only one I am unsure about is npd Mossburn.
  36. 2 points
    Now on High Street in Motueka =]
  37. 2 points
    New turbo downpipe and re-tune. A new air intake isn’t a performance mod until you’re pushing higher power with a bigger turbo but you can replace the stock panel filter with reusable higher flow one which will be your best bang for buck. Catback exhaust is mainly just for sound and not really a restriction near factory power level, so if you’re on a budget you can leave this out - the new downpipe will make your car louder anyway Power wise, that’s all you really need. For better handling you can’t go wrong with a larger sway bar kit, don’t bother with a front strut bar but get a rear if you have the money for one - makes a little bit of a difference. just to confuse the situation even more, a tune will cost you around $1000 and is a must for reliability and hp gain from mods which improve air flow through the car so if you’re going to get a tune with a downpipe (the biggest hp gain mod on these cars) then you have to consider if there are any other mods you may want to do which would also require tuning (new air intake for example) so you don’t have to keep retuning and burning money.
  38. 2 points
    Be a man and use ya finger 😂 squirt on finger, rub finger along inside, spend next few hours cleaning hand
  39. 2 points
    What you have is a NZ new GT. Hence 2.5L as opposed to 2.0L JDM. All NZ/AUDM models with HID headlights were equipped with the headlight washers, due to euro specs/requirements I believe. Were mostly upspec'd hence the sunroof, I'd hazard a guess and say that it also has a McIntosh system and black leather but non-foldable mirrors and non-alloy control arms. You'd struggle to find a typical JDM chassis number on this... B4 = sedan GT = wagon
  40. 2 points
    trademe gem 😂 https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-2301584611.htm
  41. 2 points
    No issues with my intake, cleaned and oiled it about 6000km's ago, trick is to apply only the necessary amount of oil (not liberally) and give it adequate time to soak / "dry". They make specific MAF sensor cleaners which I use once or twice a year depending on km's as even stock filters allow crap to be sucked in and coat the intact pipes (no car filter is fine enough to stop everything)
  42. 2 points
    Thanks Pat I’ve found a new W20C shortblock. Once everything is back together and run in WRC Developments in Napier will do the tune. You guys have been very helpful. It’s great to see you being active in this community! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  43. 2 points
    Dont mean to hijack thread but any recomendation to sound systemninstallers in south auckland/ franklin area? I installed some Sony, 6x5s up front and 6x9s in rear parcel shelf of gc8 with 12 inch sub. using wiring from previous owner but the sound quality was crap. Might do away with the sub in the boot as it was a bit of a pain. Not worried super good quality but just want to get the list out of the speakers I have. Without doing sound deadening etc.
  44. 2 points
    Years back we built a BMW 5 series (530 maybe?) for what I call "SQL" - sound quality as a priority, but it had to get loud. An insane amount of dynamat and expanding foam went into that car, along with well over $10k in gear, it was f***ing awesome. Did over 140dB on music and sounded really, really nice doing it, and the best part was that even at full tilt there was no obvious sign, other than the bass itself, that it was coming from that car. No rattling boot lid, no buzzing doors, just bass.
  45. 2 points
    Nothing wrong with something a little better than stock. Just no point doing it what I consider "properly" At some stage I will install some of my hoarded gear in the STI, but it will just be a set of nice-ish 2-way components up front and maybe a small ported sub in the boot, plus a couple of nice little class-D amplifiers to run it all tucked in the spare wheel well. Proper bass is too heavy for a performance car, and proper sound quality is unachievable. But better than stock is still a really nice thing to have
  46. 2 points
    Performance tyres also make a s*** tonne of noise which drowns out midrange from speakers too
  47. 2 points
    I used to be super into the sounds thing. Crazy crazy into it. Now the STI has an aftermarket headunit and stock speakers. Not much point sinking too much $$ into sound quality in them because the exhaust is always going to be loud AF, plus road noise etc etc. If you want to get loud without going large the solution is high quality drivers and lots and lots of power. A (edit: high quality) 8" sub in a good ported box with 1500wrms up it will kill the s*** out of most 12" boxes in a sealed box with 250w pushing it.
  48. 2 points
    Unless you have a non-linear spring, in my brain changing the preload doesn't change a thing? If a spring is, say, 10kg/mm, it's 10kg/mm whether it's 0% compressed or 50% compressed, so compressing the spring more doesn't require any difference in force? It does mean the spring pushes against the perch a bit harder though.
  49. 2 points
    Changed my power steering fluid. Well, more accurately, I sucked out the fluid and poured some new atf in, cycled it, sucked it out, new stuff in etc etc so it was no longer a black sludge, and is now a semi translucent Reddy brown. Going to do it again in another week or so, just going to run that stuff to loosen up all the crap while chasing out other rattles. Car is running ok, need to get it tuned. Then a write up of the saga that has been this "she'll be done by Christmas" engine build that is now nearly 2 years overdue.
  50. 2 points
    If they are standard filament bulbs and are after a simple upgrade, look for some quality Hella/Narva or other branded + output bulbs. Normally in like +120% or +150% etc etc. Bear in mind, this comes at the expense of bulb life If they're the factory HID units, boon's suggestion should have you covered. Side note, @boon when you went to Philips bulbs, did you stay with the OE 4300k colour or venture out for something different? Another thought, on the right hand side lower dash, to the right of the ignition barrel is a little switch panel. On that panel there could be a little scroll wheel numbered 0 through to 5. This is the headlight level adjuster, used to lower the headlight aim based on vehicle load, when you're towing, full boot, 5 passengers etc. If your car is empty (light) the scroll wheel should be on 0, if you're car is fully loaded (heavy), scroll the number up as you need. This lowers your headlights as to not blind oncoming cars when you have a full load (which lowers the rear of your car causing headlights to aim abnormally higher thus blinding)