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Preventative maintenance is the best kind of maintenance...

I paid up the last of my fuel lines and fittings for the RA and picked em up. It's one fat stack of fittings that's for sure! My ID1300X2's arrived as well. So parts collection complete. Maybe I'll have a running car sometime in my life lol. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk

Sorry people.... Thought I was doing everyone a favour by lagging it for a week due to the late post on here... Didn't realise it was on the aklsubarus FB page too (I try stay off FB as much as possible these days) Let's just lock in tonight and forget I ever mentioned next week! Again - sorry for confusing and upsetting people <3

Installed Chinese ez lip (Samurai) onto BR yesterday, drove to and from work today...it was on the car when I left work this evening but not when I got home...oops.

Mucked around with some white balance in the camera after a polish.

On a road car, I agree. On a car that is driven hard, the diff oil can get hot and deteriorate quicker (same for engine oil). 1. Why I don't strictly follow OEM intervals According to the maintenance interval for my BP, I should never change the following fluids : - Automatic Transmission Fluid - Front and rear diff oil - Steering fluid And THAT is nonsensical according to me. To give just one example, we all know that the steering fluid tend to leak on BP's, changing the fluid before it leaks is a good and cheap preventative maintenance. 2. Why I recommend a short maintenance interval Now, regarding @Conducks 's car, the maintenance interval is the following : (source: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance-2017.html) You probably notice that the Differential Fluid has to be Inspected but never Replaced. But there is a note *3 that states "under severe driving replace every 15,000 miles or 15 months whichever comes first". Based on @1randomkiwi 's comment "All those launches and helis sure take their toll.", I think that we are talking about severe driving here. Also, I personally think that the engineers that worked on the maintenance interval wrote this note for a good reason 3. Why I recommend a shorter interval than 15,000 miles (=24,000 km) for diff fluid In racing it is very common to change fluids very frequently, like changing engine oil before/after each race for example. My experience have proven that a car can go a long way with good maintenance (your mileage may vary). I have a couple mates that track cars with 200,000+km and the cars run perfectly, I don't think they would be able to do that without very frequent maintenance like they do. Considering @Conducks launches his car very frequently and his rear diff is already dying, changing the fluid every 15,000km doesn't seem overkill to me. Even though unrelated to maintenance, what @Kiwi_Fozze said is also to consider in my opinion. 4. End note I might over-maintain my cars but I am personally convinced that maintenance intervals should be shortened when you drive the car hard. That being said, you seem like a very knowledgeable person and I have the feeling that your opinion is not so different than mine. Sorry for the long post, I tried to structure it to make it easier to read though.

Well... I guess you could class this as a Christmas present to myself, considering I picked it up on the 23rd.

There will be an announcement very soon

*at a reasonable hour of the day to avoid grumpy neighbors

His style is annoying, (mannerisms aside) the thing to remember is that he is making the videos for his HP Academy website, which is the for the purpose of teaching less knowledgable people stuff about how to make fast cars... so he provides a lot of context around his questions so as to not lose his intended audience. Possibly it would be better to edit in the extra context and not annoy and waste the time of the person he his interviewing. In some of his videos he both asks questions and answers them at the same time, and leaves the poor person he is interviewing with nothing useful to add. That car though, F***en amazing... and Andy Forrest is one clued up cookie.

Sold the Volks that was on my car was hoping to put it on the trusty daily Honda but funds were tight. Long awaited rims and tyres have finally arrived after much wait. Fitment is on point rubs at the front but nothing a tiny bit of camber plus fender rolling won't fix.

One could be excused for thinking the world was ending, shock horror A DIFFERENT NIGHT!!??!!?? *shrugs* I don't really care when it is, I do know I'm working nights this week so may or may not be there. I fail to see why moving a night is such a drama, but whatevs

Pulled the whole interior out and gave it a super good vacuum and carpet clean. Happy with the result And damn are seats heavy! I can see why people strip the interior when tracking cars, be able to save a good 50kg from the legacy

I'd check the loom connector plug in the engine bay for oil ingress, as well as the ecu itself. The avcs sensors are known to leak, which forces oil up the inside of the cable and into the ecu which can cause a whole world of issues

And here's mine: 2005 3.0R, Rotiform INDTs in 18x8.5 with 225/45/18 on Bilstein and 'low' springs.

A great helpful post. Thank you for posting it. I have had my 2005 3.0L Outback for 7 years now and love the car. However, i really regret not getting a model fitted with Cruise Control when i bought it. I have looked online many times trying to find out how to fit it retrospectively and always came up blank. After reading this post i pulled my drivers footwell and steering wheel to pieces and found that the wiring and connections were already in place. I got myself a steering wheel with cruise controls on and fitted it. The computer recognised the controls at start up, but of course i couldn't set it as i only had a 2 pin brake pedal switch. For some reason getting a 4 pin switch proved to be impossible. Tridon have them listed but have discontinued them. Even the local Subaru dealer couldn't help. Multiple wreckers came up empty handed. Eventually i found a way around it using a 12V DC single pole relay: 1. Using the normally closed contacts on the relay tap in to the yellow and green/yellow wires on the 4 pin plug by the brake pedal. This sends the closed signal to the computer that it is looking for to enable you to set the cruise control. 2. Pick up the brown/white wire on the 2 pin brake pedal switch and connect it to the +12V on the relay coil. This is the wire that goes to the brake lights. 3. Connect the 0V on the relay coil to any convenient 0V point. I used the cigarette lighter as it was easy to access. It works perfectly and when the brake is applied the closed signal to the computer is broken and the cruise control is deactivated. I can now drive comfortably without getting an aching right leg and spending more time looking at the speedo than the road in order to avoid giving extra voluntary contributions to Government funds. Thank you again for the original post.

Car was allergic to S*** mods.

*This is a draft feel free to contribute information, photos, corrections ect * So I stumbled across this great article on the different type of motorbike heads a while ago, and I figured we should probably have a Subaru version of this subject https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/why-do-bikes-use-shim-under-bucket-valve-adjusters I'll copy some of the information over but please note the source and all credit goes to the original source Why do valves need adjusting? Valves live in the cylinder head, and a valve spring normally holds them closed. They have two tasks: Valves seal the combustion chamber, and either admit air and fuel into the engine (intake valves) or let exhaust gases escape (exhaust valves). If the engine is not a rotary or a two-smoker, the camshaft determines when the valves open (and snap closed) with its eccentric lobes. Depending on the engine, various linkages may be employed between the two, like rocker arms or pushrods. When a valve is closed, it presses against a ring of hardened alloy called a valve seat. The valve seat is installed in a pocket cut into the cylinder head. Hardened metal is used to cope with the valve slamming into it repeatedly, because the comparatively soft material of most heads, typically iron or aluminum, would quickly erode. In addition to sealing, the valve seat’s second function is to act as a heat sink. By hugging the valve’s contours, the valve seat transfers heat from the valve into the head itself, allowing the valve to cool significantly. The reason valve adjustments are important is because the constant slamming of the valve causes it to recede ever-deeper into the head. Left unchecked, the tip of the valve stem eventually will contact the piece that actuates it, like the cam or rocker. If that clearance (or "lash," in some parlances) is reduced enough, the valve can actually be held open, creating two problems. First, the valve is unable to dissipate its heat into the head. Second, that small gap allows exhaust gases past the slightly open valve and seat at great speed. This super-hot gas quickly ruins components through a process known as flame cutting, which acts just like it sounds! So what types of adjusters are there? What’s the best one? A few common types of adjusters are in use today. Like many things in life, the question of “best” is closely related to what the end user wants from his engine. Here are some of the common ways used to set lash and the pros and cons of each approach. Hydraulic tappets (or “lifters”) Found primarily on Harley-Davidsons and other low-revving V-twins, these use pressurized engine oil to automatically provide clearance between the rocker arm tip and the valve stem. Valve adjustment occurs automagically every time you ride. (Despite this, my poor wife is still appalled at how often I’m in the garage to “adjust some valves.”) Hydraulic lifters as we know them have been in use since the Panhead days for ease of maintenance (and are the norm in car engines). They do a great job setting the clearance, but by relying on pressurized oil to get the job done, they take a split second more to set that clearance. That split second is a lot of time, though, on a modern engine that might spin upwards of 15,000 rpm. This is why their use is relegated to reasonably slow-moving engines, such as Harleys that generally redline in the neighborhood of 5,000 or 6,000 rpm. A notable exception to this general rule was Honda CB750 Nighthawk, which eked out an 11,000 rpm redline in spite of its hydro lifters. The Nighthawk gave up some performance in favor of reduced maintenance. Shim-over-bucket “adjusters” In this design, an inverted “bucket” sits over the valve stem, and a shim sits atop the bucket to create the necessary lash. One can’t really “adjust” the valve lash on this setup. To change the clearance, the shim is replaced with one of a different thickness. Shims are readily available at most motorcycle shops and dealers. The shim-over-bucket setup became the preferred method because engineers wanted to eliminate rocker arms. Rather than actuating valves with a rocker arm, the cam itself opens the valve. This lightens the valve train (freeing up horsepower), allows for more precise valve timing, and also leads to longer valve inspection and adjustment intervals, because there are fewer parts to wear. (Ever-improving valve seat metallurgy simultaneously helped.) Extended valve adjustment intervals ease some of the pain caused by newer designs that require more time spent removing bodywork and tightly packaged engines with difficult access. There's a potential problem with shim-over-bucket adjusters in high-performance engines, however. There are times when an engine can spin so fast that the valve spring cannot snap the valve closed before the cam attempts to open it again. Effectively, for a split second, no load is placed upon the valve by the spring. (The phenomenon is known as valve float.) That lack of spring pressure, coupled with the rotational “wiping” action of the cam lobe, can actually “shoot” a shim out of its captive spot on top of the bucket, eliminating clearance entirely! See the illustration above. Shim-under-bucket “adjusters” This brings us to valves set with shims under the buckets, the prevalent method of adjusting valves on modern bikes. A shim-under-bucket setup uses the bucket to shroud the shim. By virtue of the bucket’s protective “walls,” the shim cannot be “spat out” by the camshaft. Additionally, shims can also be made smaller in diameter, which reduces valvetrain weight — a huge consideration when every last pony is being extracted from an engine. So when it comes to valves on modern motorcycles, that's why things are the way they are. Engineers have gone to some pretty great lengths to correctly maintain a few thousandths of an inch of space between vital engine components, which should encourage you to check and adjust your valves! If you remember one thing from this article about valve lash, let it be the following: Too loose is better than too tight, and valves tighten as you pile on miles. A quiet engine should scare you a bit. Those close to me know I’m fond of saying, “Loud valves save lives!” placeholder

This thread (which was already kinda stupid) has gone badly off the deep end in terms of stupid. Does your suspension do absolutely nothing until you hit a really big bump and then instantly bottom out? Probably not... wastegate is the same. An 18psi spring will open fully at 18psi; it doesn't stop it partially opening way before that. An electronic boost controller (or Link/modern ECU + 3-port) prevents the spring from seeing ANY pressure until target boost is hit then it gives it all of it and the spring goes wide open. Running a spring that is firm enough to not creep open from exhaust differential pressure, plus a boost solenoid, is the safest and best way to set it up. If you don't run a controller you will spool slower, period. If you run a firm spring and no controller and your car encounters a fault, you cannot prevent the car hitting the boost level of the spring. End of.

Should add some extra kws...

If bought privately, nope. This case shows why proper diagnostic process should be followed, rather than assuming, throwing parts at it, and hoping.

The first thing you want to do is remove the boost tap, seriously it's a relatively modern car with sophisticated factory boost control, some of which is there to protect your engine if things go wrong, it's not an early 90's Mazda running wastegate pressure so let the ECU do what it's supposed to and control the boost. I reckon there's something dicky going on around the ECU or grounds. Unless your car is flood damaged or something it would be really weird to have all those sensors fail in quick succession like that.

Any size is fine - the hose just vents the excess air back into the intake - you could leave it unplugged and nothing would happen - but obviously plug it back in so its working how its designed to work. I got an Arc welder for xmas so im looking forward to jobs like these lol - Ive already welded about 10 old spanners to an old spade for no reason ^_ ^

Remember that if they're a forged rim powder coating is maybe not good for them - or was that disproven? I can't remember.....

It sounds like you know all the answers already?

If it did a lot then something else is broken. If you put a boost tap on a properly functioning and assembled V7 it does precisely three-fifths of F***-all. 17psi is slightly less than a V7 should be making anyway, and 3500rpm is about where they spool when they roll out the factory door. So you have a. hidden a fault in something else b. reduced the boost to below stock levels and c. removed any ability for the car to protect itself (boost cut) if there is a fault.

Should see if you can get enough Subarus there to convince @PBMS to bring the rally car to the drags again.

if the car is tuned, then launch control can be added depending on tires the point can be between 5500-6500 but requires a bit of testing many of the 2 step i setup is a lot of ppl want the pops and bangs for show.. for the ones wanting proper launch, with correct setting we can also set how much boost it ends up building especially with 2step (can be tame or do 24psi launches if needed)

These days you can get done for basically anything that looks shady, leave AKL and do it somewhere you aren't upsetting people and you are fine. Unnecessary exhibition of speed or acceleration is pretty common Sustained loss of traction - pretty easy to do even in an AWD Practice is good, although its cute watching people line up on a prepped track thinking they know how their car will respond. Seen a number of snapped axels and gearboxes that just say nope once they are punished on a sticky track.

@Niran keen to come down and watch bro, dont think my STI would survive my driving on the track lol.... but yeah the adrenlain at the start line is awesome and the launch and reaction time is what matters mostly...

It’s a 1995 prefacelift, pretty tidy. 1.5 manual 2wd. I’ll get pics tonight add me on fb richard Mcilworth i had it as a spare red shell for my race car but would rather it was used than sit in mums car port Has done 29x,xxx kms but not original motor. One kiwi owner before me

@Marky is your man.

Almost 10 years later, I'm hunting the internet high and low for DAYS trying to find a BH5A twin turbo pinout to diagnose a no start... and google leads me right here! Thank F*** I uploaded these, cause 3 or 4 computers later, they are gone from my hard drive! Anyone have the complete A-C rev BH5 turbo service manual? I can only find D-rev AUDM complete, or A rev USDM N/A... Anyway, I've re-archived these on my google drive, I ought to make a public drive for posterity.

As a side note, you're likely to be closer to 2000kg towing weight, unless you're planning to do some radical weight reduction to your ST. Anything you get that will tow that nicely is going to suck balls as a daily; it's a simple question of mass. The correct answer to your question is an Isuzu D-Max or Holden Colorado from before they shrank the motor.

Trackday would be awesome! Definitely going to be hitting up the track this year

Lol bloody hell. Talk about drama. @ADIKT what have you done?

Use bnt fuel injection hose. Can't remember brand but it's far better than repco stuff.

Probably been posted in the past but its worth sharing again: https://youtu.be/S5NWcdq4Wf4 Unfortunately embedding is disabled for this video but it's a 2004 Subaru Forester XT crashing off the side of Angeles Crest Highway.

Venturi in the exhaust.....but wait there's more! If you buy now, I'll throw in a supercooler.....for free!!!! *old joke, those that know. Know

This is why i love this Forum. Went in yesterday and asked the same, EGT Sensor delete Complete in 5 minutes!

Haven’t posted here for a while but it’ll give everyone a good laugh I’m sure. I’ve done over a dozen heli’s in the past week (Bc Christmas skids) and tonight as the rear swung out I heard a mighty bang. I came to a stop, unlocked my centre diff and tried to move, as I let my clutch out the car wouldn’t move and all I could hear was a rattling. I thought I had blown my 1st gear, so I tried 2nd and that rattled too, car still wouldn’t move, thought I’d snapped my main shaft or something. So I tried a bunch of things and then I locked my centre diff and to my relief the car moved. So it was obviously something to do with the back of the car, I thought maybe the diff had blown. I drove the car home then unlocked the centre diff with the handbrake on and in gear, car wouldn’t move but the rattle was there, had a listen around the back of the car and it was rattling on the left side. Looking under the car the back left CV boot on the diff rotates but the axle isn’t. So I’ve either blown my rear left CV joint or I’ve broken my axle where it connects to the CV. According to the internet this happens all the time to guys who drag race their STi’s. 37,000km of being beat on, first major issue, Subaru built these cars bloody well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drove it about 6 hours south. Yep, that's where my boost went. Also, grb recirc valves on a gd/gg = all of the low boost sututu

Sounds a lot like my V7 bro, I brought it then spent 5k on it within a month ha ha. I ended up just giving mine to D tech to look over everything write a list and fix most of it. then I got it finished by Prestige motorsport as I live in wellington but maybe just drop it to a well known place who can give it a scan and fix anything that's needed? (unsure where you are located)

After collecting a puncture, which I only realised after having driven 100m or so and ruining any hope of repair in the process, I called into a Beaurepaires at an undisclosed location. The staff were friendly and accommodating but for some reason, could not follow simple instructions: 1. Fit 2 x new tyres to the front wheels (matching tyres but already ~30k in so elected to buy two etc) 2. Move best remaining tyres to rear wheels 3. Conduct alignment Arrive to see them tightening up the wheel nuts. New tyres are on the rear wheels. Instruct manager to correct. Suspect alignment's probably not done either but give them benefit of the doubt. See invoice printed, no alignment. Query. Alignment is conducted *sigh* come on man, you had one job! The balancing and alignment, to their credit, was good - a high speed run down a private test track confirmed this. I was also interested to see a portrait of Sir Frank Beaurepaire in their waiting room, something I'd never seen before (it looked period correct, as in old as hell). Apparently when he (the new manager) took over the shop he'd seen it discarded among some other bits and pieces. To his credit, he fished it out and displayed it. As an immigrant, I'd heard of the name "Beaurepaires" but never thought anything beyond it being a peculiar name. As an avid student if history, I conducted some research and it's fairly interesting. I shudder to think of what the founder of this business would have thought to have his portrait thrown away. It's sad because it speaks volumes about society today, there isn't much love history these days. The manager certainly (in my opinion at least), redeemed himself by at least having a respect for history and the brand that he represents.

This looks super cool!!! http://www.autocar.co.nz/car-reviews-app/2017-subaru-legacy-sti-sedan 3.6RS with 19" wheels, bigger rear sway bar, flexible front brace, mesh grill, STi exhaust, STi lip, and all designed by Subaru NZ

Got to the panel beaters just as they were closing up. Grabbed the car and headed home. Door not closed light on dash, interior light going. Hmmm ok. Got her home. List as follows: Bumper not blended into surrounding panels. Boot not blended Wings (both upper and lower) not painted or blended. One of my (nearly new) gas struts has been replaced with an old one that's covered in grease Mudflaps over tightened, forcing the spacer through the flap. Sti and impreza badges not reinstalled. I had to adjust Boot latch to hold the boot closed and the door open light off. This, on top of the unprofessional and rude attitude of the management staff and the fact that a 3 day repair took 7. Going to be ringing insurance company tomorrow.

Perhaps lifting the car up a touch may be prudent. It's well known that r180 axles don't take too well to being parallel to the ground (aka car dropped on it's arse) and tend to snap when loaded up in such a state.

Hi all. I've just seen on Facebook about an awesome weekend drive with other like minded enthusiasts. Some of you may of heard of it, The event is called The Gumboot rally. The event is being held the weekend of the 7th of April. Goes from Hamilton down to New Plymouth then across to Taupo and also includes The Forgotten Highway which is an awesome road to drive, (as I have done that road a few times now). If you are interested go have a look on Facebook link below. It looks like it should be a fun weekend. Let's see how many Subaru's we can get together! https://www.facebook.com/Gumbootrally/

You'll see, will do a write up once it's in and tuned :-)

Seems this affects the 08-14 as well on overseas forums so guess the "what did you do to your car today" thread is going to be filled up. @shady let us know how it works with jbweld