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Showing content with the highest reputation since 14/10/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    And finally installed after work!
  2. 5 points
    Nice things arrived for me today 😊
  3. 4 points
    I'm not a suspension expert but I suspect that a lot of it has to do with the damping profile of the shocks in the car. MCA and other decent suspension companies use a digressive damping profile meaning that over smaller bumps the damper remains very stiff but when a bigger hit occurs it softens up. You can control roll extremely well while maintaining ride and wheel independence. When sway bars were introduced as 'the' silver bullet subaru handling cure all in the 90's/early 00's this sort of damping was not as common. Believe MCA has a more modern approach than Whiteline.
  4. 3 points
    If I end up going I'll throw some posts up on the Clubsub Insta and FB.
  5. 3 points
    Hardrace is another good option. Most of their’s are hardened runner rather than poly which in theory will give a firmer but smoother ride
  6. 3 points
    It's called the FA20 and it's been around for years now?
  7. 2 points
    Your local VTNZ doesn't know what they're talking about (no surprises there), you just have to "permanently" remove the rear seatbelts and you can reclassify it. This usually means putting a bolt in the seatbelt mount holes and tack-welding it so it can't easily be removed. I mean s***, what does he think all the road legal full-caged cars with no back seat do?
  8. 2 points
    Went and checked this out. The boss man at my local VTNZ said that because its a sedan it cant be reclassified as a 2 seater. Have an update though. I got in contact with a local rust repairer and he said he can fix it for me and do it properly. So today i stripped all the rear seats and parcel tray out ready for him to work his magic on Monday. If anyone has any other BE5 interior that isn't that hideous blue and black leather, lemme know
  9. 2 points
    I'm a tentative for meremere. pretty expensive for a drag day lol
  10. 2 points
    So who from ClubSub are heading to the Sunday Meremere event? I've got a couple of you on Facebook that i can see are attending, so i'm looking forward to bumping into some familiar faces.. but keen to know who else i should be keeping an eye out for. Its nice to meet people face to face but on the day its impossible to know who relates to what username 😂 I'll be there in a ratty silver B4 with a black bonnet so if you see me come say hi 👋 Cheers, Aidin
  11. 2 points
    Having spent some time on a sportsbike I'm of the opinion that too soft is just as sketchy as too firm. I personally run mca performance series with whiteline bars and links I have softened the mca's up by like 4 clicks f+r as I'm running 9kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rears as it's a occasional track/autocross/fast road type setup. It's going to be some trial and error, and to be fair bars are cheaper than struts to swap around. Most people do one or the other, I appear to be in the very small section of people that have done both. My setup is firm, and I know the alignment is a little out, but so far it's been really good. Can't really comment too much though, as I've only got maybe 1500km on it since putting in the struts, most of which has been work commute
  12. 2 points
    So a coilover manufacturer told you that struts are more important, and a bushing manufacturer told you that bushings are more important? Now there's the surprise of the century. /sarcasm. If the factory bushings are so s*** hot, why do the WRC Subarus use pillowballs pretty much everywhere? Also, #unpopularopinion but I would say (total spitball figure) probably 80% of adjusty/coilover installs reduce the car's cornering grip. Best thing I ever did for my car's handling was make it a whole s***load softer.
  13. 1 point
    Hey there, This has probably been asked many times but anyone have some tips on how much sealer to use when sealing a sump? Also do you normally run the beans of sealant around the outside of the bolt holes? I'm just paranoid about it leaking. Cheers
  14. 1 point
    As above totally legal and did it to the forester I used to use on the track. Even took it to VTNZ for a water tank where the guys there redid it as a 2 seater!
  15. 1 point
    Finally returned @Dairusire's race suit that i hoarded for a year Going to go grab an NZKW one today. Layer 1 SFI 3-2A1 for about $220. Should be sweet yeah?
  16. 1 point
    @1randomkiwi comes to mind if he is keen.
  17. 1 point
    About time ! https://www.thedrive.com/news/30041/japan-only-subaru-sti-ej20-final-edition-promises-to-be-last-of-its-kind
  18. 1 point
    Don’t get whiteline bushes, go for superpro or Group N (factory Subaru bushes with hardened rubber made for rally spec cars). Whiteline is ok but you’ll probably have less trouble if you go for the other two.
  19. 1 point
    Guess Some poly bushes remove the linearity of the movement by being quite firm while turning on odd angles which can negatively affect handling but to say leave everything stock except coilovers seems excessive. A bush with less movement will definitely keep the alignment in check when driving hard but finding hard before/after data to back anything up is almost impossible
  20. 1 point
    Yeah I find this hard to believe as well, sway bar thing I understand but look at any S201-204 impreza and generally one of the main differences is they have the whole STi catalogue of pillowball lateral links/trailing arms/sway bar links in the back.
  21. 1 point
    +1 bushings, swaybars, endlinks and coilovers. Not ideal for roads though, especially all these pot holes and speedbumps around (Akld). It is quite stiff. Never tracked but I'm assuming that's where my setup shines.
  22. 1 point
    Yes never go SOFT, but in comparison to track setups it’s good to be near factory settings for the road. For example, on some bikes you can adjust the preload on the rear shock on a sports bike, setting this one thing too hard means there is very little give and the force will go through the bike and not the shock and either give you a good jolt and wobble the bike or cause the tyre to break traction. Too soft and you pogo or there’s moments where there’s very little weight on the rear wheel I have both coilovers and upgraded sways. Halfway through changing out bushes and also ticked off quite a bit of chassis bracing on my car 😁. My experience so far -stiff sway bars on stock suspension -one position softer on sway bars with stiffer coilovers
  23. 1 point
    Riding sports bikes I can definitely say it’s better to be soft than too hard. Any little bump would upset the bike. Struts are supposed to absorb bumps in the road. The thing upgraded coilovers are supposed to offer is improved rebound and compression (individually adjustable that is) while not getting too hot or aerating the shock fluid.
  24. 1 point
    Independent roll control at each corner by using coilovers doesn’t address the other issue which occurs during hard cornering, that is the wheel itself trying to roll under itself from lateral force and creating less than ideal wheel alignment. Sway bars help keep the wheel in place while also limiting body roll, the drawback with this is that you lose wheel independence and whatever happens to one wheel more or less happens to the other to some degree. I can’t remember clearly but I recall an episode of Top gear or the Grand tour where they were driving a new Mclaren at the time and one of the key features was independent wheel control ? They attributed this to the tremendous handling ability of the car, each wheel was completely independent (power delivery, movement etc?) edit: 4 wheel independent steering
  25. 1 point
    The track is usually nice a smooth, no pot holes, dips etc - good scenario for suspension, no sudden change in force i.e hitting a pot hole or one wheel getting stuck in a groove and pulling the car in a different direction causing random movement in the arms etc) Road: all sorts of s*** surfaces, suspension components are being pushed and pulled in all sorts of directions - in this situation I would not want soft bushes allowing multiple components to move around at weird angles. A car can be made to go straight really well. A car can be made to corner really well. Doing both is hard and where compromise is needed (or a big wallet and R&D team) Sway bars are good on a level road, going over bumps can cause the car to act very squirmy - but generally an upgraded sway bar makes the car feel more solid. Bushes if they are too soft and have a lot of play can mean that the alignment can changes a few degrees under force. I experienced first hand when I was working on my car. I took the rear coilovers off the rear control arm to make adjustments to my sway bar etc, to get them back in I had to push the tyres in/out to get the bolts to line back up, and it was amazing to see how much the tyre would flex on certain angles as i pushed it (soft control arm / toe bushes). Bushes are generally there to isolate vibration and provide cushioning so the ride is improved. You don't want movement in these places, but for the general public you don't want noise and vibration on a road car. Coilovers have their place when they are designed well and tested.
  26. 1 point
    Cheers for doing the research and posting this up, its really good info. This is one of those 'it all depends on the application' topics. TLDR: I trust MCA's advince - They are based in our hemisphere and drive the same cars as we do on very simliar roads/tracks we do. IMO: MCA is in a better position to be calling the shots. Whiteline make some good products but if i was going to take anyones word, it would be the chap that is passing on feedback directly from the man in the seat of the car. I've run MCA Coilovers and have no doubt they know what they are doing. If running their products take their advice. On the flipside when running some generic BC or YellowSpeed Coilovers that dont nesaserily have spring rates tailored to your car, you may be able to create a better overall result with off the shelf items such as differnet bushings or swaybards. This is not the route I would take however. Furthermore! I think this is a humours topic in someways due to the fact that Swaybars are one of the common DIY driveway mods for street car enthousiats, its cute because arguably you are really just making your car less comfortable for the street. But we always do things like this to our delightful street cars anyway so i'm not pointing fingers, I've run Coilovers way to low and ruied ride comfort purily for easthetics... but i refuse to drop $200+ on swaybars that simply do not help the vehicle perform "better" but rather "differntly" on the street.
  27. 1 point
    The compression test was done cold. I am really not sure how you would do a hot engine test on an EZ30, unless it was only luke warm, its so much of a pain getting the covers off, leads off, coils out, and spark plugs out when its cold that doing it when actually hot would be impossible without super low profile oven mitts on. I talked to a guy at Subtech in penrose, and he was super helpful and happy to have a yarn about my problem. He thought low compression wasnt the end of the world, although the metallic particles were weird, he thought I would be able to hear a bearing going by now if it was the problem. He suggested doing a bit more logging and cleaning of components and continuing to monitor it so will do that for now
  28. 1 point
    If that LH side one does indeed brighten the cluster/ AC / Time display etc during daytime lights on i'm going to be stoked. One pet peeve i have with my BP is this issue
  29. 1 point
    I bought from kelford, they are described as 6 degree radius beadlocks, there were 11 bucks each not inc gst. Will be more now as all the other things I bought were, this was a year ago. They are far bigger than OEM. I bought the same crank for mine too mo brainer , cheap really considering it's OEM. Wish u could just insert pics in these posts the link to url is a pain in the ass.
  30. 1 point
    Well finally after been parked up for just over a year the legacy is now driveable again with wof and rego and a clean
  31. 1 point
    Damn that is a bummer. How much material has been cut out? At least you know you have a very thorough wof inspector. Today I painted the side trim pieces on my GC8 which were peeling to the chrome underneath like they all do. Also painted the crappy faded wiper arms while I was at it. Car looks much less old and weathered now!
  32. 1 point
    Okay, the one on the LH side of the steering wheel. When you turn your head-lights on and the cluster/HVAC controls dim, that button might bring them back up to full brightness if you wanted to drive with your lights on during the day... The one on the RH side by the ignition barrel, that symbol looks like it might've been for one of the Japanese little parking distance bumper stick things they had, would often raise from the LHF corner of the bumper
  33. 1 point
    So, what do you think would be a sensible option for things to do on your car, just a week out from getting it tuned? Pull the dash out obviously! To be fair, it was sorely needed. So much old wiring. I also fixed my central locking at the same time. Not bad for a couple hours of work. Now... Time to put that dash back in, change all the exhaust manifold gaskets, put in my 10mm phenolic spacers and find other things I can break. Good times. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Nah dude, no longer have the old girl...
  36. 1 point
    Directed the crappy clear lights for some factory ones. Also replaced the ac compressor since I haven’t had ac since I bought the car. Turns out I’m a moron and should have pressure tested it first because when I went to charge the system I have a leak where the high pressure line bolts onto the compressor.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    So pretty basic but I went and got new tyres for the legacy as it was desperately needed. Basically haven’t driven it all winter because of them obviously and just replaced them now. But that alignment. Christ no wonder that thing felt sketchy all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point
    I’m planning on going to both events. I’ll be trailering my RA and towing it with my legacy, so could take yah round Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  40. 1 point
    I have this exact same button in the same location in my 04 Outback. I've had a brief play with it but never actually taken a good look at what it does. It makes a nice clicking noise so sometimes I play with it when on a long drive 😂but thats the only use i've found mine to be. I thought it was something to do with the toll gate card reader that was all through my import when I got it.. but now that I see its not a one-off i'm going to investigate further
  41. 1 point
    Best tip - stay away from oiled filters. One way street to destroying your MAF.
  42. 1 point
    In a foz I'd go for the 24mm 3pt adjustible jobbie. There's more weight higher up to deal with. And for sure, heavy duty endlinks are a must. Be glad you don't have an sf chassis, the rear bar on those are only 14mm LOL
  43. 1 point
    I doubt that is 22mm, not even the sti has that in the rear, 19mm off the top of my head would sound more accurate. The 22mm whiteline has adjustable preset mounting points which effectively make the bar stiffer or softer depending on which mounting hole you use, if you wanted to futureproof you could go for an adjustable 24mm bar, I think it’s 1mm up or down for a three hole setup. Adjustable endlinks are a must
  44. 1 point
    Spark plugs, air filter, oil change, transmission/diff fluid change. Radiator flush and new fluid, new thermostat, new water pump, new belts. The service above if you go to a mechanic is in the ballpark of $1500-2000 if you’re changing belts you may as well get a light weight pulley to help freshen up the feel of the motor, pretty cheap. In the engine bay but not engine related really: new clutch fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, new engine mounts, new trans mount and then call it a day. Other than that you are pulling the motor out and changing gaskets and bearings - which isn’t needed unless you have a leak or knocking etc. If you have a mechanical issue then you’re going to need to strip the motor, check the crank, pistons etc etc - best case no damage and you clean it up, replace bearings, install new gaskets job done. Worst case you have a bent rod. New rods, maybe new crank - you get the idea $$$$
  45. 1 point
    When I did it, I actually just used the cheapo yellow of that came with my SCA polisher for the polishing steps . When I redo it I’ll use the eBay polishing pads of varying strength for different steps. For wax steps I used cheap SCA black pad. I’m a noob too and followed same online tutorials, found the megiuars vids to be quite helpful though it helps I guess that I’ve done it all by hand in the past on previous cars (multi day process by hand!) Done some write up in my thread of my experiences if interested but as a one line summary : the Meguiars stuff with the super cheap stuff is very easy to use, doesn’t break the bank and gives great results if you put in the time to do it right Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    Early sti,type R and RA's are all worth collecting.. I am glad i bought mine 10 years ago..It has doubled in value..
  47. 1 point
    did your bro know it was stickered? I would take it back to the seller and either a/ get them to sort it or b/ get your money back could end up being expensive if it requires a lot of changes to get back to standard/ certifiable
  48. 1 point
    There are some other instaructions for old models here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public?wa=wsignin1.0&sa=994970618 They are called page one and page two. There is also a lot af variations for newer cars here... http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html
  49. 0 points
    Think i agree with everyone's opinions here. From what i've research in parallel too is that the best way is to start with a good set of coilovers, and then keep adding 'stiffness' from there. You don't want to buy 22mm bars and then install nice coilovers to find the bars are way to stiff. That makes a lot of sense to me. What doesn't make sense is why MCA say to not even upgrade the stock bushes? That seems bizarre. Surely at least whiteline bushings, maybe endlinks with their coilovers would mean less slop and better handling?
  50. 0 points
    Took the "new" legacy for a warrant and it failed! Someone has cut the speaker holes too big in the parcel tray and too close to the seatbelt mount, so now it needs a "panel beater report" and none of the ones in Rotorua will do it. Bought another crap heap. Fml [emoji26] Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk