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  1. 10 likes
    Not today, but Sunday... HVMC autox, placed 3rd out of a large field of 53 My fastest run for the day
  2. 10 likes
    I prefer email it gives you something to go back on in a world full of liars and bullshitters.
  3. 8 likes
    Nothing too wild, waxed the fk out of it and new tyres fitted. Michelin Pilot Sport 4, if anyone cared.
  4. 8 likes
    Almost deserves a name and shame. Not because of $ but because of the principle.
  5. 7 likes
    Had a visit from Mr courier man with a few new bits to go onto the car in the near future. Radium AOS from @mlracing.co.nz and a STI shiftknob from @Individualities
  6. 7 likes
    Got sent to Australia for a half day event, got bored in the afternoon so went and got a process west intercooler to fill in the time
  7. 7 likes
    Why should I? Pointless having online contact form if they don't respond to it. And even after the promise on the phone to get back to me, they still didn't.
  8. 6 likes
    Got my new front lip from eBay, 1 week to ship from America to NZ. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 5 likes
    Just get it running right and stop worrying about the sound.
  10. 5 likes
    Got some more work in on the motor, Nothing significant but got the new Twinscroll sump on motor so now to just put on the new engine mounts and exhaust manifold, then onto the engine crane, bolt on the flywheel and clutch and in the hole!
  11. 5 likes
    A straight pipe is illegal even if it is under the DB level. From the VIRM: Reasons for rejection: 1. A vehicle is not fitted with an exhaust system that includes a means of sound reduction (Note 1) (Note 6). .... Note 1: Exhaust system means a pipe assembly through which the engine exhaust gases pass to the atmosphere and includes some means of sound reduction such as a silencer or resonator. Note 6: (external wastgate stuff) https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/exhaust/exhaust-system A stock 05 STi is a tidy car, a turbo back straight pipe would be one hell of a way to change that. Just my 2c.
  12. 5 likes
    Weather has been great. So, as such, I can do some parts cleaning and in general tidying. The flywheel was the primary thing stopping me from getting the motor in the hole. Rusty as hell. So, down to bunnings wire wheel bought. Cleaned the thing and am happy with how it turned out. Also turns out that -8 pfte braided fuel lines are waaaaay easier to do than -6. Got what I can do without needing the motor in the car to get the right measurements. And for my last party trick. I got my hands on a brand new in package v10 sti twinscroll sump. Delicious. Something about getting new parts innit. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  13. 5 likes
    My FSTI blocking the road on the weekend. Forester_STI by Tim Rutledge, on Flickr
  14. 5 likes
    So after selling the gtb I bought a caldina sold that then bought a territory. Now I've just picked up an 03 bp
  15. 5 likes
    See Prestige Tuning & Motorsport's post on facebook today? Additional front mount lag looks like 100rpm or so. Factory location turbo and manifold, basically longest routing and large volume to fill. Given those results I'd be trying to get as little pressure drop and not really be concerned with volume to fill (with in reason), so 2.75" all round shouldn't hurt.
  16. 4 likes
    Recents of my new BL5 Legacy sedan in Manual i absolutely love her!
  17. 4 likes
    ** Chirp** ........ **Chirp** Very quiet in here! Here we go. All cleaned up an puuuuurdy Who's next??
  18. 4 likes
    I hate to break it to you but no matter what exhaust or tune you put on it you won't get any rumble. The 05 STI has equal length headers, so they don't rumble, period.
  19. 4 likes
    My little Starlet got a tank of sweet sweet 100RON today. The WRX will get some love when it next needs a filling
  20. 4 likes
    Various links to Subaru FSM’s i’ve come across that may help some of you who haven't yet found one relevant to you. Note there are manuals from multiple regions present which are useful for general tasks but specifics such as wiring/engines/transmissions vary so use with caution in those cases. https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/
  21. 4 likes
    Just to update, got that cord from the trademe link, all works primo. Easy as to do it in the end. Thanks again all.
  22. 4 likes
    Plox: 280kW ATW @ 28PSI - 492 NM Torque Model: 92 RS Legacy BC5 Displacement: 2.0l Mods: gtx3071 gen 1 with mamba twin scroll 0.82 AR housing/ 880cc Side Feeds / bl/bp ts headers with twist adapter / 3Inch with 2 x coby & muffler / 550x230x65 FMIC / vipec i88 / post IC 50/50 water/meth injection / 272 Franklin reground cams / adjustable cam gears Fuel: BP 98 Top line is 28psi with water meth Middle is 24ish psi no water meth Dashed lines are old single scroll gt3076 0.63 housing 23psi no water meth Couldn't pull any more than 280kw, torque drops off significantly, next to no top end gain adding boost and timing. Injectors weren't the limiting factor (yet), appears there is a airflow restriction. Pressure testing results (on high boost): Exhaust port egbp 40psi pre turbo but post wastegate egbp 35psi post turbo egbp 5psi turbo outlet/pre intercooler 34psi final boost/manifold pressure 28psi Back to back core vs no core @ 40% open loop wastegate duty test showed 22psi with core 26psi without (so ~4psi of intake pressure drop is the IC, this added 20 degrees of IAT even with WM and made the car run mid 10 afr rather than the normal mid 11, and seemed to bring the boost threshold 200rpm earlier) I've been "internet" advised IC is to thin and causing a restriction. Any opinions on this? I have a suspicion the cams aren't what they should be, are a bad grind, or are dialed in wrong. Any opinions on what could be the restriction or tests to suggest?
  23. 4 likes
    side note as most points have been covered : DON'T get a bolt in cage for a few reasons, the best one being they are USELESS, yeah they look cool & may appear to do the job, MSNZ don't like them either once you got half or rear cage you might as well go whole hog, now you have a racecar
  24. 4 likes
    Woah, keep it PG please...
  25. 3 likes
    Nothing today, but last Sunday I brushed off the motorsport cobwebs and gave the Forester some leadfoot at the MBOP motorkhana and autocross in Tauranga. Motorkhana: Autocross: Foz went better than I thought, although the tight slaloms were a handful with the power steering pump not really keeping up. It likes to understeer a lot more than my old legacy wagons but a bigger rear sway bar is on the list.
  26. 3 likes
    Might have taken me a few months, but I finally got around to fitting Bilsteins in my BP5 last weekend. Gave it a clean and got an alignment this morning. The result, speaks for itself.. Dropped 64mm and looks pretty flush on RE003’s. Well stoked, might take it for a test run to town VIA Whitford later [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 3 likes
    Go genuine,Subaru have made changes to the idler bearings.Was also told the genuine belt gives more accurate timing and that the variable cam timing is harder on belts.MRT Performance YouTube “Old vs new Ej cam and timing belt comparison,what to look for” just posted.
  28. 3 likes
    Hey mate, When I brought my car it had been tampered with and had loooots of issues but that is another story . best bit of advice I can give is drop the car to a known mechanic / tuner in your area and just foot the bill to have it sorted. gives you piece of mind knowing its healthy and on a safe tune rather than the thought some backyard mechanic may have tried to toy around with it.
  29. 3 likes
    It will be obnoxiously loud, at least put a resonator in, unless you like yarning with policemen and little green windscreen stickers.
  30. 3 likes
    Hi Guys, I haven't seen this posted up here yet so thought I'd share what a mate showed me. Good news for the south island as a stop gap until we get some ethanol on pump. Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
  31. 3 likes
    Another shitty phone quality one but my dog photobombed me
  32. 3 likes
    Bought another one, oops Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  33. 3 likes
    You trade off making your car slower and kinda raping your turbo in exchange for a bit of "sututututu" noise. Each to their own, but IMO there's a pretty good reason Mr Subaru put a BOV on the car in the first place.
  34. 3 likes
    Why not just a hole in the headers? It will make the car even slower. First question is what you're actually hoping to achieve. If it's just fully hektik noise... maybe consider just not doing it. Lots of money to spend to probably make your car slower and look like a complete tool-bag.
  35. 3 likes
    what he said above.. cheapest way would be to get someone to hack in a pipe in from the up pipes - but really not going to gain any performance benefit unless its done correctly and with the stock turbo, the noise may be the only gain..
  36. 3 likes
    If it's smoking like crazy I would say unlikely to be AFM or O2 sensor; if it's doing it under vacuum then it's probably not an air leak as this would make you go lean instead. I'm going to take a guess on a failing or partially blocked injector massively overfuelling a cylinder. Inspect the plugs (you may as well replace them unless you know they're platinum/iridiums) and you may find just one cylinder has a totally black/fouled plug. Second guess would be something failing in the ignition; coil maybe.
  37. 3 likes
    Put WRX motor in with turbo system Do fuel system put in Front mount Abuse @Pappu1 until he tunes the RA for favour Not blow up another motor before a motorsports event again.
  38. 3 likes
    What fuel are you using and what mods? The top line tells you the most in this case. IAM should be 1. Anything less means there’s been enough decent knocking to justify a global ignition retardation. Jap imports will sometimes sit at around 0.9 or slightly less if driven hard purely because NZ 98 is still worse than the jap 100 they’re originally tuned for. In the fuel correction section the last row (40.00) is the only one of concern. The 2.3 means the fuelling is off by that much in the last zone the ECU can adjust for based on the o2 sensor reading. After that it bases it solely on the tune. This means at full throttle your fuelling is off by 2.3% In general, a positive at higher g/s ranges means more fuel is being added as there is more air in the engine than has been calculated for. So there is more than likely a leak before the turbo, but after the airflow meter. The turbo inlets like to split so that would be a good place to start looking at a guess. The timing correction section (does the same as IAM but tweaks things in certain rpms/loads rather than over everything) isn't too bad currently. Imagine as soon as the IAM number raises more will show up in that area. All in all you should definitely be getting it looked at.
  39. 3 likes
    New inter cooler in and did some testing on the weekend. Pressure drop across the core is basically the same as running a straight pipe. It needed roughly 15% less waste gate duty to make the same boost, and afrs were leaner on high boost. Slight improvement and a step in the right direction.
  40. 3 likes
    Picked up a rev b long block, v5 wrx ecu, divorced downpipe and a vf24 yesterday Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  41. 3 likes
    Ask the LVVTA directly. https://www.facebook.com/LVVTA/
  42. 3 likes
    You can strip all the interior trim you like apart from the front door cards... though you could make some lighter ones if you wanted. No need for a cert for a roll cage but it needs to be msnz homologated and you will need an msnz authority card. I don't know if any bolt in option is road legal or allowed to enter msnz evetns. Coilovers will need a cert obviously.
  43. 3 likes
    I've got BCs in my legacy, awesome upgrade over all the standard S*** imo. Loads of adjustments to get it to suit your needs. I put dampening on half way and got a wheel alignment and its a different car altogether. Even helped with body roll. I have used it on track and will be using it for a grade m learner tarmac rally in June also/ can't wait !
  44. 3 likes
    Read all that and got this as well. tight bends are bad intercooler core design is the biggest factor for real world. Which makes sense as there are some terrible designs with nasty bends at the entry and tiny passages through them. pipe size makes little difference compared to those two if like @A_J_T said you stay about the outlet size. other than that's is complex physics interactions wizardry no one really can explain well that makes little difference.
  45. 3 likes
    I've read many threads on this before, these two are good value. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2399163 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2648685 My 2c, I think at lower power levels like we are all dealing with 400kw- then its not a massive contestant in the game. As long as you are not going smaller than your turbo outlet things should be good. Smaller pipe is easier to work with and route through the engine bay. I went 2 hotside and 2.5 cold into a 2.75TB
  46. 3 likes
    My 98 V4 Type RA Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
  47. 3 likes
    Indeed it was! yeah its tidy as, just need to put the original badges etc back on it! Yeah same It made me smile even before the tune! now it does other things to me lol!
  48. 2 likes
    Being a D-rev, don't they come with the best twins from factory? You'll get better pick and reliability from a ECU retune being a D-rev.
  49. 2 likes
    Your S-GT will probably love it after a few tanks to re-learn. That's cheaper than 98 in chch too!
  50. 2 likes
    Since you’ve mentioned in the other thread that your idle still isn’t completely stable, might be worth seeing if there is another leak somewhere, check all vac lines too. Then O2 sensor is probably the next thing on the list to check with the rubbish economy. Won’t there always be a code active if it's in limp mode? Pretty sure resetting the ECU dismisses the codes and limp mode and if it comes back there should be an accompanying code as well. Spark plugs are relatively cheap so worth doing just so you have a record of how old they are. If they’re coppers then they’ll definitely be due for replacement anyway. If super tight on funds you could clean them up and set the correct gap but depends on how worn they look when removing.