• Announcements

    • RAYDEO

      ClubSUB 2018 Calendar is now avilable!   24/09/17

      Click here for more info!
      The 2018 ClubSUB Calendar, Powered by Possum Borne Motorsport is now available.

      12 Hand picked full colour photos, taken by menbers, submitted by members and chosen by members.
      All vehicles in the calendar are owned by members of the NZ Subaru Enthusiasts community.

      A massive thanks to the team at PBMS for coming on board for another year!

      This is a very sought after calendar and only available for a limited time.
      Also, if you are a subscribed member of ClubSUB, you will be in for a descent discount, so make sure you're logged in.

      Please note, as these are printed to order, shipping will be delayed. we will make 3 orders, October 30th, November 27th, and December 11th. If you dont order intime to make one of these shipping dates, we will get it out to you in the new year.


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Showing most liked content since 21/09/17 in all areas

  1. 15 likes
  2. 12 likes
    Hey Conducks.. you have got the cash to splash and an obvious desire to drive fast .. Have you ever had a shot on the track.. I am recommending you give it a go.. Karting is a great introduction to motorsport.. You will learn race craft,setup,organisation and have a real driving experience.. Then I would suggest a formula ford as the next step in your racing career.. I know its fun to blast around the streets in your hotrod but its not going to give you any personal growth.. Get out with a pack of other drivers giving it heaps and see how good you really are.. Doing crazy stuff on public roads isn't going to win you any prizes.. From my experience after spending a great day racing in a controlled environment the last thing you will do on the way home is bust the speed limit.. Do it properly man..
  3. 9 likes
    Several years ago I acted as the sweeper car that went though at the end of each stage in the Targa Rally. Plenty of experienced drivers went off the road at speeds far less than 200km/h. They were okay due to lower speeds or the fact they had a roll cage and helmet etc. Most were caught out by totally unexpected hazards on the road such as oil spill, wild animal etc. And they had far more driving experience than you - by a country mile. Do yourself a favour and reign in your perecived powers of invincibility before it is too late. You have the rest of your life to live. I may think you're a knob, but doesn't mean I wish you ill will...
  4. 9 likes
    inspired by the people on club sub and reading the suby docs i figured DIY this weekend and share the notes before forgetting. mine is the face-lift 07 auto trans H6 3.0R with engine push start button. not all loom wiring is pre made for these model years. The purpose here is to complete the cruise control system by installing cruise buttons and parts to supply a brake switch signal to ECU pin B20. This is my write up, don’t do anything to stuff up your vehicle or anyone's safety and if you not sure stop. steps are in sequence each dependent on the previous step. 1. Have the correct service manual for your vehicle @ http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy_Outback/ or https://techinfo.subaru.com. Print and read the relevant pages in the subaru service manual because there is important information and safety info in the 5,000+ page service manual that is not detailed here. 2. Most of these steps required the battery to be disconnected. 3. Check cruise and set lights are available on your dashboard, even if they are never lit. We only noticed ours when the sun was right behind us. 4. Check cruise is supported by the ECU. I used FreeSSM with a vagcom cable and the engine diagnostics page shows integrated cruise control on the left hand side of the window. Not all models support cruise apparently higher spec models are more likely to 5. Check you have a 2 pin brake light switch and there is not a 4 pin loom plug tucked away in the loom near your brake light switch. if there is you are lucky and subaru have saved you a heap of time, just replace the switch with a 4 pin and ignore all of the new wiring steps. 6. Use the service manual to identify and check the ECU under the passenger seat that ; 1. C25 (clutch pedal pin) is wired green yellow and tied 12v with ignition on (for auto transmission models), subaru included this wiring for us 2. note/ you could probably easily pick up the ignition 12v from elsewhere if you wanted to but i wanted to test C25 was working per the wiring diagram. 3. B20 (brake switch) is not wired. Subaru didn’t include this for us as they did for some previous model years. 7. Check which cruise controls are required. Similar legacy/outbacks to mine have steering wheel cruise control 8. Go to the wreckers and pick up; 1. Steering wheel cruise control buttons 2. 4 pin stop light & brake switch 3. 4 pin stop light & brake loom connector with some wiring 4. ECU plug with 5cm+ wires attached (computer under passenger footwell). This is so we can take a pin out to use on B20 9. not familiar with these components? practise removing ECU pins and also the connectors from the brake switch loom connector as this skills will be required later on. I didn't this before so asked for help @ https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/48623/how-to-remove-pin-from-subaru-ecu-plug 10. Install steering wheel buttons which required removing the wheel to unscrew the buttons panels from the rear side. My SW buttons were stereo controls on the left and a blank plate on the right. Put it back together now the cruise dash light is shown during lamp test when the ignition is turned on. The set button on the steering wheel won’t do anything. May get a DTC whilst driving when the computer realises the other circuits are not ready. 11. now need to wire the normally closed contact on the 4 pin brake switch to feed ECU pin B20. I took the ignition power from C25 (spliced a couple inches back from the ECU plug) up behind the foot well, then behind the stereo and over to the brake switch location. The return came back along the same path to the ecu’s pin B20. This was time consuming because removed most of the front trim panels to follow existing loom paths. Used solder and heat shrink on all splices/joins and a PPS cable sleeve. Don’t work on ECU cables with their plugs connected to the brain. At first I couldn’t get the new ecu pin into B20 but gently did it to click in with the crimped side facing downward. 12. Replace 2 pin brake switch loom connector with the 4 pin. Used a small flat jewelers screwdriver to pop out the white/blue and brown/white wires from the 4 pin loom connector as loom already had those. Popped out same colour wires from the 2 pin and moved them over to the four pin. Connected in the new cables from previous step. 13. Replace 2 pin brake switch with the 4 pin brake switch using a 12mm spanner and check it is in the correct position. I used a multi meter to check the contacts changed state when the brake pedal was depressed, even slightly (had to adjust the switch position). It was good to test from the ECU side as well to check the new circuit is working end to end 14. Put back enough of the panels and connectors to have the car drivable and test the engine starts with no warning lights. 15. didn’t have to do anything else to enable cruise control because the computer detected all of the signals were in place. it automatically enabled and made the cruise available 16. go drive to test the new cruise control, it worked - the cruise function and dash lights operate nicely If I did this over would probably use another source of ignition 12V rather than have to splice the C25 wire. anyway done now and uses same circuit, fuses and pins described in the service manual for the factory cruise.
  5. 8 likes
    My word you are a spectacular bellend. Your old man might want you to enjoy his success/money while he's still around to see it, but does he know that you behave like a spoilt brat a complete spanner to boot? Stacking humblebrags like they're going out of fashion... ugh.
  6. 8 likes
    Waiting on a quote to repair the "paint" on the rear quarter of the car, after chasing a Porsche cup car at pukekohe, and running out of talent at castrol, that will teach me. Luckily mainly got away with it.
  7. 8 likes
    I'll be the grumpy guy. This conversation is over, keep it on topic. ClubSUB does not endorse illegal activity. If the authorities want to pursue it the admin team will cooperate in anyway required.
  8. 8 likes
    Put some LEDs into it: Oh yeah... and bought the damn thing
  9. 8 likes
    Model: 00 V6 STI (GC8) - 390KW 30 PSI, (253 kw is at 13 psi). Displacement: 2L Mods: GTX3071R twisted gen 1, Link G4+ wire in, black ops1400cc Injectors, 30 PSI, lots modified, (1000HP capable block, Doweled, cdb, oil gallery mods, ARP headstud conversion). Fuel: E75 ( read from dash EtOH sensor) Tuner/Dyno: D TECH. In case anyone wonders, yes I could bolt a bigger turbo and go for stupid power above 500wkw easy enough car is built to take it, but why bother, this way car is responsive and fun to drive, I don't want a small rev range of useable power.
  10. 8 likes
    Calculating flywheel figures with a percentage loss is utter bullshit. The only way to get a true crank figure is with an engine dyno.
  11. 7 likes
    Didn't have time to watch it all. But wheres the drifting at? Given your age and the fact you seem to know the answers to everything, I would have expected you to be chucking it in backwards at least at the hairpin and driving somewhere approaching the limit of adhesion. Good to see you have tried out the track. But if you ever want to drive properly fast, come to Wellington to one of our hillclimb *actual motorsport* events. Happy to take you out as a passenger and help encourage you to do this stuff legally more often, as once you realise that you can race fast round corners legally, that's much more fun than this straight line sh*t! Ohh and if you ever go back to the track, please make sure to get a driving instructor, you might learn some stuff. Turns out those guys that have been racing for a long time do actually know more than the average driver
  12. 7 likes
    If there's one thing I've learned from having kids, it's that they really have no idea how ridiculous their stories are =]
  13. 7 likes
    Half the time I think he is just trolling us:)
  14. 7 likes
    That's a good start but not sure it's enough. I'm not going to lecture you like everybody else, I'm just going to give you a pure driver's perspective. If you put the risk of other drivers that might pull out aside, I think that 260 is too much on NZ roads. While I personally think that driving at 200km/h on French highways or 250km/h on German highways is relatively safe as long as there's nobody else on the road (but it's still illegal in France), the quality of highways in NZ is nowhere near to the quality of highways in France or Germany. At 260km/h on NZ roads, you need real skills and there's always the risk of losing control because of a road defect (and you won't be able to do anything about that no matter your skills). My point is : 260km/h on NZ roads is way too much, if you want to find your limits and learn how to drive fast, you should go to a racetrack. And you'll learn a lot more that way. Anybody can do 260km/h in a straight line, not that much people know how to go fast in corners.
  15. 7 likes
    If you're wondering why there's so much talk about a magical, mystical classifieds section within ClubSUB but you cant see it... there's likely a very simple reason. Do you have less than 10 posts as your current user on the ClubSUB forums? Yes? well there you go. In the interest of making the ClubSUB Classifieds safer and more trustworthy, we have implemented a minimum 10 post count to access any classified board. (if you answered no to the above question, head HERE and post your issues, one of the team will help you asap) So go introduce your self, become part of the community, make some friends and ask some questions, you'll be buying and selling in no time! Have fun!
  16. 7 likes
    Dear God, why????
  17. 7 likes
    Took the car to get tuned on Friday, 160KW ATW, tuner said he expected way more, but a better intercooler may help. It also started to develop a tick in one of the heads. Took it home, and checked it out on Saturday morning and found one of the cam carriers had come loose, and the other had snapped bolts.... I swear I tightened them to factory spec. Fixed that, but it still had a tick, now suspecting it may have dropped a shim. Instead of risking it for the hill climb on Sunday, we decided to pull the engine and swap in a spare for Sunday. Finished that at 2AM and then had to be up by 6 to go to the hill climb. Ran the hill climb, spare engine wasn't too happy but dealt with it surprisingly! Will pull the top end apart tonight or tomorrow and find out what's going on with the new engine...
  18. 6 likes
    Gearbox finally in. Still got lots to do before Saturday. But will be going for pack laps, popping off for an alignment then back to the track for some fun. Was seriously getting worried that I would have to take the Outback round😢
  19. 6 likes
    220 seems a bit soft for that sort of HP. You sure you were doing it right?
  20. 6 likes
    Lets get back on topic. Continual lecturing and arguing is not gonna solve anything Or start a new thread Got my Subframe lock bolt kit and Steering Rack Bushings today. Gonna install tonight/weekend
  21. 6 likes
    Okay okay - back on topic. Purchased this off of trademe last night, hopefully get it on this weekend Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. 6 likes
    Used the BG to tow the race car out of the mud & did laps around my house
  23. 6 likes
    Lol those stickers mean nothing. I've seen "400kW+" stickered cars do sub 300kw on hub dynos. At the end of the day, it's your car, you don't have to justify your decisions but the guys/gals on here have great advice on how to make your car perform. Don't just be one of these guys: chasing-numbers.jpg
  24. 6 likes
    Personally, it sounds like ass to me
  25. 6 likes
  26. 6 likes
    Dad shouted me new rubber today! 265/35 RE003’s all round, still a slight stretch on 9.5 wide rims. Might go for 275’s next time round. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  27. 6 likes
    Turns out she looks pretty damn good when clean.
  28. 5 likes
    Had to get some new pads for flatnats so thought I’d try the Bendix Street Road Track. They are the next level above the ultimate. Will know how they go this weekend anyway.
  29. 5 likes
    Mods: any chance of a face palm emoji?
  30. 5 likes
    Well, yesterday. Victim of a hit and run. Gotta go in tomorrow to make formal statement, insurance quote etc etc. Not happy. All you people at flatnats will get to see the mess in person, cas it's asthetics only, and I won't let one stroppy islander spoil my weekend.
  31. 5 likes
    The tuner is a goomba if he thinks that a (presumably rolling road?) dyno figure, with an arbitrary made-up correction factor for flywheel power, is more accurate than a hub dyno. If you're going to quote a made-up number, may as well just make up a ridiculous one. Shoot for the moon, put a 500kw club sticker on it.
  32. 5 likes
    Dropped her another 15mm front could come down a little more I think. just rubbing issues
  33. 5 likes
    Well, we found the Holsets Boost issue lol. We ordered a new Wastegate just to be on the safe side.
  34. 5 likes
    Back in my day we had a hard time getting the stretch on the wagon wheel (my first wagon)
  35. 5 likes
    Old: Close enough, lyall bay. Now I look at them, yours is further to end of the runway but I couldn't get there. New:
  36. 5 likes
    This thread is indirectly dedicated to alleviating the body roll of OBs.
  37. 4 likes
    This won't fix delta's problem, sounds like he's dumping too much heat into his brakes for 294mm rotors and/or current pads to handle. The 316mm rotor and caliper to suit is found on BL/BP turbo and 3.0R excluding Outbacks and all BM/BR turbo and 3.6R including Outbacks. Tribeca and GRF WRX STi A-Line should in theory have the exact same calipers, but those are harder to get hold of anyway. The rotor you need is DR9541V - I stock these but most parts places will be able to cross the number over. Bendix number for the pad to suit is DB1722.
  38. 4 likes
    HAH at last someone said it, Only Legacy's can go that fast! (due to the Gearing)
  39. 4 likes
    Just because you are the only one in the car does not mean you only endanger yourself. What about the soccer mum with 4 kids who pulls out when you're ages down the road but doesnt expect you to be doing 2.6 times the limit?
  40. 4 likes
    cheers 4 responses - ECU is about to go on a holiday to San Francisco. Edward (west_minist & XRT ) recommended Tatrix as well. This morning phoned Tatrix US, spoke to Mike who is a legend, loves NZ and offered to fix and return post the day it arrives. two months in owning my first Subaru I broke it good! .
  41. 4 likes
    Replace a F***ed gasket with a new one and gained ~3psi
  42. 4 likes
    There's a new one in the family :
  43. 4 likes
    Issues, the early legacys are renowned for destroying turbos. Even if they are well serviced. They are just as highly strung, given they are still a 280 (ish) hp turbocharged Japanese performance tourer, and yes definately 98 only. People seem to think that Japanese cars will run nicely over here, fact of the matter is anything that is considered premium, luxury or any sort of special model (so like, 95% of all Japanese imports) are tuned to run on 100 octaine fuel, so running em here on 98 is less than ideal. However. They are retunable, and if you replace the turbo for one from a facelift legacy (vf44/vf45) remove all the oil feed banjo filters and a Gentle retune, you can have one very rapid, reliable and 95 friendly car. Out of the box, they can be touchy. But its easily remedied
  44. 4 likes
    Never been a fan of 18" on the gc/gf chassis. A 45/17 Looks so much nicer and is more forgiving...
  45. 4 likes
    I've thought about similar projects (was a bh5 wagon with blown head gasket for 500). I think the profit would be better just replacing like for like as cheaply as possible to sell a working car. I think 1400 is a bit high for one of these, you won't know what else needs replacing till you get it running and drive it. Modified cars are worth no more than stock ones from what I've seen on TM.
  46. 4 likes
    As seen in NYC on a trip last year. It’s pretty bad but almost good because of that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  47. 4 likes
    Old: Fort Sreet New: Just realised I cropped out the name of the yacht business Can't make it too easy
  48. 4 likes
    Actually the bum is where it matters.
  49. 4 likes
  50. 4 likes
    anyone abit bored tonight should check out this awesome bbc doco (if you havnt already) - madness on wheels ("rallyings craziest years), its about the 80s group b rallies