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Showing most liked content since 17/06/18 in all areas

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    I guess it is time to confess... 7 series would be the closest 640D Gran Coupe (aka 4 doors) with M paket and a bunch of cool options.
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    A Subaru mechanics dream. 91 octane + heat soaked intercooler + heavy right foot = another dead Subaru motor...
  6. 5 likes
    We just bought a turbo to hit 500kw so perfect timing.
  7. 5 likes
    A parcel from @mlracing.co.nz arrived
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    I'm definitely far from a perfect driver but I've done a fair bit of low traction grit/gravel/snow driving as I go up the skifields in Otago most weekends each winter. Not rally or anything serious. Good tyres with good tread depth 4+mm make a huge difference, people hate on all seasons but they are a step above summer tyres when the temperature drops significantly. Knowing the condition/type of tyre you have will give you a better idea of the traction that you may have available. Slower and smoother on the inputs are the most important ones. Keep a keen eye on time of day, air temperature, and shaded areas. There is often a massive difference between the traction in an area that gets sun and one that doesn't. Did it rain the night before then clear up overnight? This is a recipe for black ice around dawn/morning. Knowing the road really helps with this as you know the areas that don't see sun, if you don't know the road you have to be extra vigilant/cautious. Allow a much greater following distance to the car in front. Maintaining speed is pretty easy even with very low traction, but when you have to stop suddenly will realise how little traction there is available. If someone is following you too closely just let them past, the last thing you want is them running up the back of you when you come to a stop. Try to do all significant braking in straight lines, you can trail brake during corners if necessary to stop the car from 'running away' but no significant braking. You should always select the correct gear and scrub off all the speed you need to before entering a corner (especially if the corner tightens). It is important to keep all the wheels rotating to maintain traction and steering, don't depress the clutch for no reason or roll in neutral. If the car begins to lose traction do not stand on the brake as you will likely spin, it is usually best to just maintain balance of the car and try to control the direction of the slide with smooth steering inputs. This one is really hard to learn until you experience it, as the initial instinct is usually to brake. During hill climb try to maintain momentum (I don't mean go fast). If it is really low traction (snow/grit) and you lose your momentum (on a steep hairpin for example) it can be really hard to regain traction and move in the direction you want. It happened to me this previous weekend on the way up to the skifield driving on snow. I was in a train of vehicles behind a fwd that had fitted chains, I was following too close to compensate for the changes in the speed of the vehicle in front of me. The car in front of me went around a tight left hand turn that was quite steep on the inside and slowed down significantly. I wasn't ready for this and had to downshift from second to first on the steepest part of the corner, this caused me to lose most of my momentum and I was spinning all the wheels while moving more sideways than than upwards. Luckily Subarus are awd and I have decent tires so I was able to keep going but I should have had a longer following distance then I would have been able to keep my momentum. During hill descent use your gears to control the speed of the car. You really don't want to pick up much speed as it is really hard to scrub it off going downhill with limited traction. Most of the people I see that have gone off the road have let the car pick up to much speed then either don't make it around the corner or spin from braking too hard and losing control. Subarus make the hill climb part fairly easy if you have good tyres as they have an excellent amount of forward traction. Going downhill you are no more equipped than grandma's Corolla. If you are coming downhill carrying too much speed as you enter a corner there is very little that can be done to save you. Best to slow down beforehand Someone please correct me if they think I said something wrong. Hope that made sense and helped somewhat, sorry if it was too long winded and basic. I kind of got a little carried away.
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    Did my first track day ever on Saturday (Ruapuna). Heaps of fun, managed to spin it on the second lap of the first session (coming out of the hairpin). Started the day with times ~2min, and finished with consistent 1:55s and managed a 1:53.9 on my second to last lap. Definitely pointed out some weak points on the car (mainly pads/rotors) and gave me heaps of stuff to learn! Car didn't miss a beat, used hardly any oil and temp stayed at normal driving levels
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    I'll be there with the rest of the crew
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    Spent some money.. Set of braided brake lines from Safebrake melbourne..look good.. Also bought another property with 3 bed house and seperate 110 sq meter high stud shed/subaru factory.
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    Username - 403.7wkw safe tune, could do more but turbo absolutely maxed. Model: 00 V6 STI (GC8) - 403.7KW 30 PSI, (350 kw is at 25 psi on pump gas 98). Displacement: 2L Mods: GTX3071R twisted gen 1, Link G4+ wire in, black ops1400cc Injectors, 30 PSI, lots modified, (1000HP capable block, Doweled, cdb, oil gallery mods, ARP headstud conversion). Fully built heads. Fuel: E75 ( read from dash EtOH sensor) Tuner/Dyno: HiTech Motorsport.
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    http:// i had had two photos of our 22B I can't decide which one so sent them both in, any opinions on which is best ?
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    Sorry for the lateness... finally got round to throwing the video clips I took together and uploaded it:
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    I went along. Wasn't too many Suby's, lots of Evo's about. Parked between some yank tanks that made the RA seem rather tiny
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    Model: 2002 Impreza WRX Wagon, GGA Displacement: 2L Mods: VF30 Turbo, Decatted factory downpipe, Silicone intake, Version 7 STi intercooler, Deatchwerkz DW200, STi Manifold, STI Pink (565) Injectors, Genome Muffler Fuel: BP 98 Tuner/dyno: SAS 196.47kw ATW. This thing sings now, oh boy!
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    Nope, basically how it stared was I emailed them about both recalls, but they only acknowledged the air bag, so I contacted them through Facebook and was basically like, are sti gonna come to the party on one of their flag ship cars, or am I just gonna burn to death when the fuel lines catches fire.. They contacted STI japan, and after a few weeks got back in contact with me confirming they had come to the party. They had no idea what the inlet recall was for as they've never seen a car like this before, even comparing it to the 5 S204 we got NZ New, they still didn't fully understand. It even came with a 10 page instruction manual complete with photos for the inlet pipe, they didn't let me keep it But ah well, it's done now. Happy man is happy
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    It does. The new aluminium ducting replaces the factory shroud, and has rubber seals around it to stop air escaping. When closed the shroud presses up against the intercooler, so the plastic factory engine cover goes in the bin.
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    I installed some stuff, and got some stuff in the mail. A shift knob from Raceseng in translucent red (already had the silver core, so just got a red one): Some red aluminium surrounds for the AC knobs: And lastly, a shiny new Process West Verticooler kit arrived, courtesy of @mlracing.co.nz, which will be installed this weekend along with a Boomba short-shift plate, a Perrin brass shifter bushing, and a Perrin steering dampener lockdown:
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    Snapped this pic this morning before work. Shot at the end of the driveway. Unfortunately iPhone quality.
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    I’ll jist leave this here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2001-legacy-4eat-5mt-manual-swap-write-up-186828.html?s=148999beb1d68a6f103033cd81abc10e& and tag @whitebait19 as he converted his EZ30 to manual
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    straight from exxon mobil. no ethanol in mobil fuels in NZ
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    Confused me a bit, so here's my take on the same scenario. I always find relays stupidly hard to explain So the light bar side of the relay doesn't change (still hooked up to the batt). The trigger of the relay changes. Instead of the switch opening/closing a 'constant' 12v source, the 12v source is actually fed off the high beam. So when high beams are on, you can flip the switch and the relay will turn on. If the high beams are off and the switch is on, there is no voltage/current coming through the trigger, therefore the relay doesn't switch. And don't take the 12v off the lights side of the highbeams relay, take it from the switch side something like this (i think)
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    Bummer. Obviously buy more, surely it’s a drop in the ocean considering what she’s cost you so far Meanwhile, I did a super clean gauge install in the Legacy.
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    Nice. Had a package turn up from them yesterday which will hopefully go in the car this weekend
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    Update: Got car back yesterday, new fuel pump, fuel filter cleaned, entire full system cleaned out. Filter was just filthy and appears to have clogged, and the full system was also very dirty. Haven't taken it for a rip yet, but seems to have a new lease on life even in commute home, Ngauranga was fun again! Partly age (2003), NZ fuels, and me driving with fuel light on a lot... Lesson learned! Heated seats back... mmmm
  30. 3 likes
    Here you go, they're based out of Auckland http://www.airplex.co.nz/subaru/legacy-liberty-outback/2004-06-bp.html
  31. 3 likes
    Every tuner from the North Island I have spoken to about gets better gains power wise and less knock on Mobil 98 vs bp98. We only have bp98 down here so cannot compare myself
  32. 3 likes
    RAL are running their shuttles @$6 per head return, we cannot compete with that so we are not running our shuttles ( we are instead contracting to RAL as they dont have the capacity so win win) pretty much IZichard said it all, take it slow and easy dont do anything quickly, especially coming back down, carry chains know how to fit them, biggest issue I see is tyre choice, wide 18's are next to useless ( or 20's/22's ) best are narrow ( under 195) 15's you need more ground pressure on snow and ice. this comes from 30 years driving shuttles on the Turoa Mountain road ( in excess of 1.5 million km's on that road)
  33. 3 likes
    Yeah I quite like the dsg in the gti. There is a little bit of weirdness on the initial take off as the clutch slip point tends to respond slightly differently depending on you throttle pedal position, it takes a little while for me to get it to be smooth. It is well worth the minor drawback on take off for a much better driving experience over a crappy torque converter. @lunchie I really like the 04-07 manual wrx wagon but for what you said you want to use it for I would probably take the dsg gti. The gti gets excellent fuel economy for how fast it is, the dsg gearbox is actually fun to drive and it is a much nicer place to be on a long drive or daily commute than any Subaru I've ever been in. The only thing I don't like about the gti is that it is fwd and it isn't much good for driving around in winter where I live. The service costs of the gti will be slightly higher than the Subaru but if it is lower kms and has been looked after they are certainly not unreasonable. If you like to work on your own car go for the wrx wagon as everything is so much easier to do. One minor drawback is the gti takes a wee while to get to operating temperature so not the best if you do mostly short trips. I would comfortably own a Subaru with 200kms on it but I wouldn't say the same for a golf. Make sure you get a lower kms car with good service history if you go down the gti route. Source: One of my parents has a mk5 gti which I have serviced for ~40k kms and have driven a total of around 3-4k kms in, I have owned two turbo Subaru wagons and I regularly fix both Subarus and Golfs.
  34. 3 likes
    Does this count? Working on the Racing Sim just waiting on the JST connectors and can begin wiring it up.
  35. 3 likes
    Haha best part is in the last 15seconds
  36. 3 likes
    My wishlist of Milwaukee tools is soooo long! I've used their stuff before, and it's amazing. No offence to MCM and Ryobi - but I like how the smaller Milwaukee stuff uses their M12 batteries - not large 18V batteries. Makes getting their tools into tight places easier. And also seeing Milwaukee stuff on YT a lot, and my mechanic swearing by their tools. For hand tools - I use Toptul, pretty much exclusively. I got a topbox and chest from them when I was mechanic'ing. I'd rate them better than SnapOn myself - lifetime warranty, and good quality, without that price tag. Only had my 1/2" impact universal replaced on warranty (I didn't break it). The boys at the local Partmaster got it all sorted in under a week for me! Plan on adding a side cabinet, to house all the Milwaukee stuff I want to buy.
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    Milwaukee m18 impact wrench. Absolutely awesome. Couldn't live without it when it comes to suspension / drive line stuff. Not to mention swapping wheels ect. I also have the m12 impact wrench and it is equally handy. Saves a lot of time having these 2 tools.
  38. 3 likes
    == long exposure and a moving source of light (a torch or a phone etc). Bengal lights look cool too. But the key is the long exposure basically, similar principle as on the image below.
  39. 3 likes
    Correct. Was Scott's car, now my car. Gone to the dark/light side (whichever way you want to look at it lol). Bit of a learning curve, but a good challenge - currently in the process of a big tidy up. My Subaru is back in the Manawatu now, and the new owner will be competing at various Manfeild Events
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    He's a bloody good mechanic !
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    Yes, you could change your hubs to the Version 9-10 STI 5x114.3 ones, but be aware it is not a cheap exercise unless you can find second hand parts for a good price. The 5x114.3 front knuckle assembly has a thicker clevis and the hole spacing for the lower shock mounts is different. You either have to use V9-10 front shocks, or have the knuckle machined thinner, and one of the shock mount holes re-drilled to use your existing shocks. Once that's done, just bolt everything on. You have a couple of options for the rear.... I am not too familiar with the Foresters, but is yours an STI? and if so, does it have the R180 rear diff etc? If you do have an R180 diff, then you should be able to just get a set of V9-10 rear hubs and swap them over with your existing ones. Or, the other option is to use the 5x100 R180 rear hubs, and re-drill them to 5x114.3, and re-fit the studs. They have enough meat in them to be re-drilled, I did this on my old race car and it was fine, BUT, I am guessing your car will have ABS and re-drilling may interfere with the large bolt-on tone rings that I have seen on some of the later rear hubs (my car was a GC8 RA so no ABS etc). If your car doesn't have an R180 rear end, then you will need to change the rear end to R180 (axles and diff) to make the 5x114 hubs fit your car - just comes down to how much you want to spend, so if that;s out of your budget, the 5x100 to 5x114 adapters would be the far easier/cheaper option (even with a cert).
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    I had ID1000 injectors on my old car,which worked really well. Have you thought about getting a custom exhaust set up made locally? Might be around the same price or possibly cheaper than freighting one over from overseas? Otherwise keep an eye out on Trademe and Subaru Speed. i found my 3inch Fujitsubo exhaust for $400 when i was looking. If you decide to go Genuine with your turbo, give me a yell as I can get hold of Garrett and Borg Warner for good prices.
  43. 2 likes
    I only think about finishing my car in terms of "finished for now until I have some more money".
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    Ahh that s*x balls! Guess you'll need to order new ones... Here are some stats for you: You're not alone!
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    Painted calipers gloss black. Gonna paint the "subaru" White so it stands out. Also painted a few of the interior pieces red for lols. Ill get a pic of that installed later on
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    ive owned a golf before and wouldn't again unless it was new.
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    Just a place for people to share what tools they have/use/recommend etc. Pics or links are great. What tools are your recommended "must haves" for working on Subarus? Thanks @Individualities for the thread suggestion.
  50. 2 likes
    someone post pic of @Dairusire best tool among us