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Finally fixed my hoist again... Around 6 months ago the chain snapped, which took us ages to finally sort. We bought a new chain $100 or so, and installed that, but then we found the original geared cogs were too worn and were slipping with the new chain. So just procrastinated about that for ages, until last week I mentioned it to my dad, who said to give him a cog. So did that, and he found replacements for $12 each, and then machined them out to fit at his work, and provided new pins etc. While we were at it, he machined out the original motor pulley to fit the replacement motor, as we'd been running a larger pulley, as that's all that could fit. Finally got it all together, and working this week! And for the first time since we've owned it, it can now lift a falcon! Previously with the larger motor pulley it was geared wrong and wouldn't do it! All this means I can FINALY put the legacy back up on the hoist and find the oil leak and exhaust leaks.... Then don't get me started on the fuel rail leaks...

Hooked up a reversing camera to my factory Nav screen which doesn’t have a rca input for a reversing camera. A trip to Jaycar and identifying which pins to use on the back and it all works

Had the recall work for the passenger airbag and park brake done today by Armstrong Christchurch. Was excellent service car came back washed and cleaned on the inside. No marks on the outside or scratches or rattles on the inside. All the things (defi controller) were back where they should be as well. So for me was a good experience and the parts guy was very helpful in getting me a gasket they didn’t have in stock from Auckland overnight.(partsouq didnt supply it on my last order as they didn’t have stock either)

Gave the legacy a big service today as I have no idea when stuff other than oil and the cam belt were last done as I am first Nz owner. -spark plugs changed and they were actually in good condition -brake fluid flush -rear diff oil changed, fluid was still a decent colour -transmission drained and filled! Fluid was a little brownish but still it bad. Will do a drive tomorrow and then drain and new fluid again. -coolant drained and will fill tomorrow. Waiting on a Torx T70 bit to arrive so I can drain the front diff as well. Overall pretty happy that it looks like someone has looked after the car in Japan.

Decided to do some more DIY on the car, this week I ended up added sound deadening. As you you can see there is nothing at all on the door other than a plastic skin A metre of sound deadening later and it’s all covered. Road noise and in particular wind noise has dropped a lot, speakers even sound 10x better. I am going to order more material and line the boot and eventually underneath the carpet / seats. The 6m roll for $129 is easily the same, if not better than the branded “Dynamat” at a fraction of the price. It’s roughly a meter per door or 1.5m if you want to really layer it on (double up on hollow patches). ...yes that’s a picture of two different doors, I forgot to stop and take a photo of the finished front door 😂

Why don't you buy the full set of cams off @Gripless ? Should be cheaper than 550 +gst for sure..

Hi All, I'm working on a CNC machined TGV delete to be used with v7 STI intake manifolds. I've modeled the part myself based on a factory aluminum TGV and had it 3D printed and test fit. The design will allow for standard Subaru injectors and rails for all injectors ports, this allowing flexibility when building up your fueling system (i.e. aftermarket injectors or rails for Subaru v7 Imprezza STI will fit in both lower and upper locations, along with factory v7 injectors/rails). The benefit of dual injectors per cylinder is when you are chasing big horsepower, and a large single injector per cylinder (i.e. 1500cc and above) will achieve poor resolution at part load/cruise, resulting in a stumble or accelerator hunting at cruise. With twin injectors, you can retain the factory injectors for low horsepower duty, and allow the ECU to bring on the secondary injectors only as needed, thus providing factory levels of fueling control at low engine load and adequate fueling for high horsepower runs. This design is intended to utilise your primary injectors in the lower injector ports for general duties, while the upper injectors provide additional fueling as required. This will require an aftermarket ECU to control the additional 4 injectors and it is best you consult with your tuner if your ECU is capable of managing the extra 4 injectors. I'm currently working through the adapter for mounting the upper fuel injector rail and pricing with a CNC machinist with the final version to be cut from aluminum billet. As you will understand, the bigger the batch of these the lower the final cost, so if anyone is interested please get back to me via private message and I can put you on the list. I'll post some pictures up here shortly of the 3D printed version, but please be aware that this isn't the final product, as details such as fillets will be added to improve machine-ability and reduce costs. I'm happy to answer questions anyone has, just fire away. Cheers, Jono Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thought you were going Liam Neeson on us and saying you were going to track them down 😂😂😂 I would help with disposing the body fyi 😉

Redid the BBOD yesterday, think I put everything back in place. ... 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

No difference in suspension set-up between revs A-E.

Maybe it’s just the sensor reading better without the burnt oil in the exhaust. Sensor may see oil as fuel since it’s the base from which petrol is made. That or oil blocks the reading of oxygen a bit Engine may be running the same.

Stripped the car down for more sound deadening: Added some foam on top of the transmission tunnel too (didn’t photograph it)

So my gf thinks I spend too much time on the car and she gave me an ultimatum... her or the car... at first I was skeptical, I thought I might have needed a bigger sunroof! But she went out without a problem 😏 If you find yourself in the same predicament I think the button is in the same general area, somewhere under the steering column labeled “ejecto seat”

Latest project, get this little beast up and running for a full Windows based carPC setup.

I cant locate the link I used but from memory the things you need to do are. Offset clutch cylinder or cut the stock reservoir down and clamp it back to cylinder. Modified mounting brackets. Longer turbo to intercooler hose. You need to shorten the hose from intercooler, to intake manifold so tmic can fit in between fire wall. Possibly need to run aftermarket bov, or make your own hose to recirc the stock v7 bov. V7 intercooler splitter, you will need to drill new mounting holes to make this fit your bonnet. May need to put some rubber on the gearbox pitch stop mount to stop intercooler from rubbing or rattling on it. I think that's mostly it.

Well so far one upsell has been put forward lol. Apparently my fuel filter is dirty, now what I caught them.out on was that he said it could be changed and he hasn't pulled the pump yet.....

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/other/listing-2260819818.htm?rsqid=01cf88ad46944e02ad7a455a23022c2d-001

Good Afternoon sir, the recall has been completed free of charge, however while working on your car we noticed a few things, here is a list of items that NEED addressing ASAP for a million dollars

I still am somewhat tempted but the response of the 7163 is just so hard to look past considering the mid range is my priority area. Aren't you keeping it at this point anyway? Ultimate plan should be to sell me this one and buy @Tony, s big boy EFR

Finally locked my inner Scrooge in a cupboard and went out and bought a new exhaust for the WRX, while I was there I got a bit carried away and bought new coilovers too 😂😂 I was trying to find second hand ones to keep costs down but to be blunt - people are useless!! No one has made much of an effort to try sell theirs. So all I need now is a downpipe + tune, wait for the additional Cusco chassis bracing to arrive and I’m done modifying the car ..maybe

Best bet is to get some good quality high-output HID bulbs and give the headlight lenses a good polish. I'm running genuine Philips bulbs in mine and they're pretty good.

Genuinely hope you find the car dude. People who steal others stuff are maggots.

Totally handles like it’s on rails now.

Maybe a good option for you would be to go to a kelford cam? Nothing extreme or anything but since you've gotta replace the cams?

Urban selection series perhaps? Nothing extraordinary in this department though. Push start/keyless entry was introduced in MY08, shifters even earlier in MY06.

Finally got my order from the US to ceramic coat my car, should help keep all the road spray crap off when it rains 👌🏼

You need sunk lug nuts man

New legacys have the plate in the passenger side door jam. Threw me off aswell when i first got my legacy

I doubt that is 22mm, not even the sti has that in the rear, 19mm off the top of my head would sound more accurate. The 22mm whiteline has adjustable preset mounting points which effectively make the bar stiffer or softer depending on which mounting hole you use, if you wanted to futureproof you could go for an adjustable 24mm bar, I think it’s 1mm up or down for a three hole setup. Adjustable endlinks are a must

Headunit will be far better than you think those JVC units are underrated. Speakers and mounting will make the biggest difference. Speaker brand depends on music taste. The more effort on the things below can make $50 speakers sound better than $500 speakers on not installed properly. sound deadening is good and for the price @Omsin got it well worth doing. The noise is resonating bass form the door cavity. Makes a difference to exhaust drone as well. Won’t help you if you have a pitch stop mount that is too hard though. Things to do with install: buy and some jaycar closed cell foam to the outer door skin to stop reflections even if you do doors fully in dynamat like stuff. Speaker cones are thin and sound does also go through them. Newer cars have foam rings around the speakers to seal them to the plastic door trim so no bass leaks where you can’t hear it. Speaker mount maybe as be as big as 6.5” and the newer plastic is sometimes better. Ie 2007 up speakers are in carbon fibre reinforced. Not woven pretty but mixed into the plastic. I cut the factory speakers out and screwed new 6.5” infinity coaxial speakers in. Sounds pretty good but have underwear sub as well now If you dynamat cut strips (or foam) to put between speakers and mounting plates as well to squash down and airtight seal things.

http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/STi8IntercoolerOntoMY00Classic Here is the link I went off. I researched it all and purchased all the parts but never got to fitting the set up in the car. This should give you pretty clear instructions.

Scandi flick..

I don't think you would get the rumble from a non turbo smaller displacement motor, cheapest and easiest thing to do for sound is a cat back exhaust

You do what you can eh, I've left my arms looking like a teenager with some serious emotional issues after sound deadening a couple of doors. Amazing how much stuff back there is slicey as a slicey thing.

So, done another batch of Type RA roof Latches. They’ve come out absolutely phenomenal, and am really happy with them. Added the spring that the factory one retains as well, so you can run the latch looser without it flopping around haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Here's a link to various FSM's I had been asked for from a forum member. ***Disclaimer*** These aren't my work and aren't all from Subaru either. Some of these are re-posts of info made by other members from this site. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1-vgCUJF91RRrq_tmuh2KcB-VqrDmt3Rn Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Took my car to Winger Hamilton on wednesday and got it back the same day for the Recall work done. No issies and no up sells either so im pretty happy. I did ask them for a breakdown of the work they did(for my records) but havent got that yet

Usually jap imports are Km/L and NZ new are L/100Km If you're committed to cautious, smooth driving they can be efficient but most people just mash the noise maker and still go everywhere slowly but do so whilst using twice as much fuel as they could be using.

My 2.5 turbo uses 10.9l/km around town average and 13l/km open road.

Some meters actually show km p/ L instead of L p/km my ex gf had a 2L legacy NA manual which was usually very efficient AND extremely slow 😛

I have a 2011 WRX 2.5L and with a mix of driving I have 10.2L p/100km. That’s with enjoying the car but also driving / shifting conservatively. a 6 speed would save you more gas if you do open road driving. My 5 speed sits at 3k rpm at 100, a 6 speed sti would sit just above 2k rpm for example. best I’ve seen is 8.9L p/100km cruising on the motorway Auckland to Hamilton. I have an aftermarket air intake, top mount and tune for 98 gas - FYI Reset your trip meter after every fill up to keep an accurate average. tips: keep a good tyre pressure, shift before boost, roll power on for passing, let your car roll when you can when you know you need to stop / turn (on the open road you can cover a fair bit of ground at idle) - braking is wasting energy.

this found me

I'm gonna play devils advocate and say that unless you can find something else that killed it (failed injector or something) then it almost certainly was the tune, a little bit of knock will savage your big ends. Relatively low kms and power to have it run a bearing.

You can send it to Mattchanics if you like. They build Subaru engines all day. www.mattchanics.com info@mattchanics.co.nz

Let me just go pull a few notes off the money tree outside aye

The efr have that titanium based wheel and billet compressor. That must add cost

Take photos, lots of photos of your dash and pillar trim prior, just to be safe.

Hi Guys Racecraft Engineering is alive and well! We make rollcage kits for more than 350 car models, jet boats, marathon boats and off-roaders. We have now produced more than 6900 kits, and export to 7 countries. Our standard 6-point cage kits are $550 including GST, and are guaranteed to comply with all Motorsport NZ regulations. Check our website www.rollcages.co.nz, and give us a call on 0274 341 541. We deliver all over the world!

Moderator hat on ⚗️ Split & created your own 05 Blitzen thread in the Legacy Section (some good info here) as I dont think we've seen some of these on the forums before (new model buyers are slow to catch on / Facebook clubs seem to be 'winning') again welcome to the forums & thanks for your contribution! Your $$ help keep this place alive & information like this available hopefully for years to come!