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Showing most liked content since 22/01/19 in Posts

  1. 12 likes
    Lots of rumbling on @ToomTom and @Niran's garage threads, about people's expectations and experiences with performance workshops. I feel like it's a conversation worth having, because clearly we all have somewhat different levels of expectation about what we'll get when we take our car to a specialist workshop. And I have some grumpy rants to have about it as well. Keep it constructive, I guess. My 2c: On the one hand, virtually every modified car is different. There will be slight variations from build to build that introduce unique differences that have to be allowed for when you setup/tune the car. On the other hand, these are "experts" and they usually charge like a wounded bull, so the service should be premium. Because of these variations in cars, things sometimes go wrong, or don't work as well as expected. So my number one rule for a workshop: communicate. Tell the customer what's going on. And for the love of all things Subaru, have your ducks in a row when you talk to them. Don't give them some wishy washy bullshit with 9 different things that you think it might be. You're professionals, damn it, with a workshop full of fancy diagnostic gear (including, probably, a dyno), so come and tell me what the issue is. Rule number two: Unless the customer is like "I'm coming to get the car", don't push it out the workshop door if it's running like a bag of balls. Generally people spend like 6 months or more building the car, a couple more days for you to iron out some little issues is nothing; the customer might be a little bit disappointed but if you follow rule #1 and have a concrete conversation about why you need the car longer they will be understanding. If you hang on to the car but fail at #1 you look incompetent. And so help me, if you have more than one car with the same issue, and you fix it on one car and don't fix it on the other, and then tell the owner of the second car that it's the same issue as another car that you already knew about but you didn't fix it on their car, you look incompetent. I've taken a car to get tuned, it had issues, the tuner nailed it down to a single factor, laid out my options, we made a decision on it, got it sorted. Easy. Seriously, I feel like I have had some sort of blessed experience with tuning. Drive/trailer the car in, leave it for a couple of days, drive it out.
  2. 10 likes
    Second to last weekend in Wellington so decided to go for a “Sunday drive” around some of the bays in Wellington.
  3. 9 likes
    So here are the very few photos I took. I'll take some time to shorten the dyno run videos etc and post those at some point soon. Estimates vs Results: Photo Album on FB:
  4. 9 likes
    Not my car, but we have successfully converted a facelift BP5 auto to a manual 6-speed! CANBUS still working, ready for a tune
  5. 9 likes
    Hey Team, Excited to announce that @Niran and @PBMS have offered to give us some entertainment with a 350KW dyno pull. I'm sure most of you are very familiar with @Niran's 2011 Sedan, so this is an awesome opportunity to come out and see the build in person. Here is one of my favourite clips of the car... it sounds like something pulled directly from Need For Speed Underground. If you want a smile simply pop on your headphones and listen to those satisfyingly notchy shifts or the turbo snatching up copious amounts of air as it thrashes down the Manfield track.
  6. 8 likes
    That we all have!! In other news. Slapped the new battery in because well its been 4 years minimum since the last one. It runs! It was a bit rough to start but once kicked over that was it. Took it for a quick little trip up the road to the petrol station to check the tyre pressures and all is well there. No longer is the RA unable to move under its own power! Finally she's alive Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  7. 8 likes
    Hi All, Thanks for getting the dyno day organised. Thanks for PBMS for a great day. Here are some of my photos taken. It looked like everyone's cars did well on the dyno. PBMS told me my AFR were all good and it went well. As you can see on the dynograph VOD is very minimal.
  8. 8 likes
    After a maaaaassive mission today with @RaKid and @lowandy the fuel system is done, loom is in and plugged up, all the ancillaries are on the car, I've probably forgotten something and the car won't start tomorrow, but sh1t, it went from 40% done to 85-90% there. The big task of the day was mostly getting the fuel system in and done in the right places. It looks pretty dang cool. There will be more photos tomorrow as these were taken much earlier in the day of the progress, but not the finished item.
  9. 7 likes
    So other than my random purchases of the day, at lunch I went down to BD Motorsport and got the blow off valve welded on! Looks blimmen good if I don't mind saying so myself. Also check out the size of this turbo!!! Huuuuuuge Garrett. Can literally put my whole hand in the intake it's so large. Couple shots of how I've got the fuel system stacked in there. it's a bit tight and could do with some more alignment but for the time being it'll do well.
  10. 7 likes
    Hey all, spent a few hours putting together the video so far. I've gone with one summary video of the whole days, so there's an intro with music (yes its a car video and you want to hear exhausts...) but then there's a dyno clip for each car (except @McMatty, somehow I missed your car... Sorry mate ) and then an outro featuring @preim and @Niran. Does anyone object to their rego being visible? It does take a bit of time to block out but I'm willing to do it for those that want some privacy. Oh and @Niran, can I use one of the clips of you "testing" the tune in the carpark? Aiming to have the video up by Friday
  11. 7 likes
    So my Japan shipment arrived, so satisfying installing these parts haha did a photo shoot recently too
  12. 7 likes
    Well, good news is good. The RA is running again after 2 years. Took a while to hunt down and fix the random niggly issues like the fuel leaks and small wiring issues that turned out to be nothing. Its running on full e85 which is awesome. Narrowband sensor doesn't cut the mustard though as expected haha. So wideband will go in tonight, as will the fuel pressure sensor and I'll try sort ethanol content sensor too Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  13. 6 likes
    Making a digital day/logger work raspberry pi. Can either run Android with ecu software, or rasbian with full version of tuner studio so I can actually make adjustments and setup triggered logging as my ECU has no onboard logging. Sent from my M6 Note using Tapatalk
  14. 6 likes
    1. ALWAYS check that the company is registered, even if they have been around for a while, does not mean they are legitimate. (Been there, done that) You can do this here - https://companies-register.companiesoffice.govt.nz 2. THERE ARE NO FRIENDS IN BUSINESS, you pay them, there is no such thing as 'mates rates' they not only want your money, but NEED it. Been there, done that. 3. NEVER give them an inch of leverage, an inch turns into a mile. If S*** seems to good to be true, IT IS. Check on it regularly, everyday, physically, if possible. Been there, done that. 4. Supply as many parts as you can yourself, never assume they know what you need. Been there, done that. 5. PAPER TRAILS, always save your digital conversations, and if things are bad. Record phone calls. ALWAYS get receipts for work done. Seriously just never be afriad to be a total C unt. That's your money, if they don't want to do what you say, they'll either say no. Or yes, and take that money of yours. It's always about the money.
  15. 6 likes
    Such an awesome day! Thanks @A_J_T for organising and @PBMS for hosting us - legends!
  16. 6 likes
    Done an oil change on the bl5 legacy and found the car had a full set of aftermarket headers lol
  17. 6 likes
    Solved: So I went took the car for a drive to get it hot and when it started making the noise I had a look around. I pressed my finger on the two left side coil packs and one of them was vibrating as it made the noise. Took coil off and found spark plug was loose. When changed plugs I mustn't have tightened it enough as Im always scared of over tightening. Nice easy fix. Sure easier fix than over tightening it. On my ratchet I counted 36 clicks until it goes around 360 degrees so from now on I tighten plugs around 24 clicks therefore around a 2/3 turn.
  18. 6 likes
    F*** it. Lock me back in. I'm making the big push to finish the RA. Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  19. 5 likes
    Today is the day I got to eat some of my own humble pie. I have as such come here to repent for my sins. Turns out I was totally off the mark and am a complete oaf when it comes to wiring. Yep you heard it, got it about as wrong as you can get. Simply put I didn't terminate the positive OR negative well enough and that was all. Had nothing to do with the patch loom I bought. As such, the wideband is working now but the battery is stuffed... Onto the charger it is! Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  20. 5 likes
    Making this topic so people wont run into the exact same issues @Niran and I experienced. Hopefully this will save people a lot of mucking around. The Problem The GV/GR fuel hanger seems to be a significantly restrictive part of the fuel system on late model STI's (MY08 - MY14). Because of this restriction it causes fuel pumps to get hot, cavitate, and eventually fail, causing big issues down the line. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being un-pressurized, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. The Solution This issue can be resolved by using a surge tank setup, or by replacing the fuel hanger with an aftermarket alternative. Radium Engineering hangers have been proven to resolve the issue, as well as the Process West surge tank option. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. Additional Info This may also apply to a select legacy GT's between MY05 and MY07. Someone to confirm, perhaps @Andy_Mac may know, but I believe they use the same hanger. Please note that this discussion is aimed more towards people chasing big power (300kw +) If you are doing simple bolt-on's this may not apply to you so don't worry! Solution A: Aftermarket Fuel Hanger The below is for a Radium Fuel Pump Hanger. (20-0380-00, 20-0382-00, 20-0383-00) It is recommended to purchase the plumbing kit for this too. Solution B: Surge Tank Process West Anti-Surge Fuel System - https://processwest.com.au/surgetank-08-14 Solution C: Hack Job Nobody we're aware of has tried this yet, if someone does can you take pictures and post up step by step instructions and ill add it in here. Contributors: @Dairusire @Andy_Mac
  21. 5 likes
    Hey guys, from a technical perspective. you aren't describing cavitation as such. Cavtitation occurs when the pressure on the suction side of the pump drops too low (usually a negative value determined by the pump design) for the pumps given amount of lift. This boils the fluid on the suction side of the pump and the bubbles then collapse on the impeller. What you guys are describing is more like what I would refer to as dead-heading a pump. This is where the fluid essentially stalls (relative to the impeller) and you get fluid slip on the impeller (like compressor surge). It sounds like you are driving the pump off the end of its operational curve, and this is driving the current draw up and frying the pump motor. Can someone measure a dead pumps electrical resistance versus a good pump? Cavitation would destroy the impeller and maybe the shaft bearings/surfaces. Dead-heading will burn out the motor. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  22. 5 likes
  23. 5 likes
  24. 5 likes
    Was an awesome day out. I've got a lot of video to go through now
  25. 5 likes
    Real nice to connect names with faces today and see some of the Forum cars in the flesh. Big shout out to @PBMS for hosting us. They really made the day with thier awesome venu and expertise, not only on the Dyno but also prooved they can dial in a pretty decent BBQ lunch too. Cheers all for coming out and keep your eyes out for some videos and photos to come.
  26. 5 likes
    Sorry I couldn't hang around longer to see the rest of the cars (hopefully everything went as planned). Unfortunately I had to be at an appt on the shore at 2:30. Thanks Aiden for putting it together for us. Also massive thanks to Possum Bourne Motorsport. My first time there but will definitely be back. 204kw for the wagon was a surprise.
  27. 5 likes
    So I called it! Car didn't start today LOL! Still got a fair bit done. Also, photos as promised of the fuel system and stuffs as it was last night. Not gonna lie, I got reeeeeeally twitchy when we had to get the grinder out and cut the bumper bar. Intercooler is in but the charge pipes are such crap. So they're not in position properly. Screw it lol Sent from my TA-1012 using Tapatalk
  28. 5 likes
    Got stuck into the RA today. Clutch is in, motor is in. Tomorrow is fueling and electronics and me finding out the parts that have gone missing over two years. Lets get er dooone!
  29. 5 likes
    Bought a 3inch stainless exhaust because quite cheap and shiney.. Looks loud sitting on the floor..
  30. 5 likes
    No worries man, if you have the time do come down and catch up though dude. Its a rolling road at PBMS so shouldn't take long for cars to swap out. I've cleared a slot for you mate so jump in there and fill in your details. ClubSUB Dyno Day Participation Form Yea absolutely man, its a family friendly event so come on down and enjoy the BBQ with us.
  31. 4 likes
    I know that some years ago the answer was a resounding no - you could go run a 10 second pass with a super ropey half-cage made of exhaust off-cuts arc-welded together in your mates garage and that was more or less fine, but MSNZ would laugh at you if you tried to get the cage homologated.
  32. 4 likes
    Easy. Grab a windows tablet and connect it to that.
  33. 4 likes
    What @Andy_Mac said is right, but to expand on it. To achieve 300KW+ you need a very high flowing high pressure Fuel pump, this goes up the feed line pressurised and through the rails to the regulator. Regulator then sends fuel back down the return line to tank. The part of the stock hanger which is returning fuel simply cannot flow enough fuel out of it to keep pace with the bypassed amount from regulator. What happens next is rather than the Return line being unpressurised, it starts building pressure, which affects the performance of the regulator which in turn causes flow/pressure issues down the feed line, which then causes the fuel pump to cavitate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation link for reference if you don't know what it is. So in short, you modify/replace/change the stock hanger so there is no restriction and thus no pressure issues which could solve your entire problem. The reason why going to a surge tank solves this issue is because you also change from a high pressure fuel pump, to a low pressure high flow pump which just dumps into the Surge tank. EDITS: Because I'm dyslexic, I'm fixing my grammar and spelling as I spot it. Have to re-read things like this 10,000 times to make sure I've got it all
  34. 4 likes
    If you are doing anything custom... don't expect miracles. Things go wrong. The aftermarket parts you have bolted to your car have NOT undergone the level of testing and R&D that OEM parts have. Your modified car is not going to be as reliable as an OEM car... if you want much higher performance than the OEM car provides, it's going to cost money up front, then more money to work out the initial problems, then more money for maintenance than an OEM car. Unless you know the person actually doing the work, or the person closely supervising them, has done the exact work you are asking, and on the exact same model car... don't just think they know exactly what needs to be done or all the potential pitfalls. If you don't trust that the person or workshop doing the work is capable, then either go in every day and check on the progress, or just don't give them the car in the first place. A company is only as good as the people working in it... a name means nothing. A once great company might have none of the original staff or owners that made the company great... and might actually suck. That should only be a temporary situation, as people will catch on quickly. No matter where you go, no one cares about your car or your budget like you do... why should they? You are responsible for what happens to your car and how much it costs. Get time and cost quotes for everything... if the workshop is unwilling to give a quote, then it's up to you to decide if you trust them to do it in a reasonable amount of time and for a reasonable amount of money... which is often the same thing... labour is always the biggest expense.
  35. 4 likes
    @Bobby you've got @KwS's old S401! Before Kelvin, was owned by Hamish of HVS Motors down in Gore, where I got my S401 from also. He had one of each colour for his wedding.
  36. 4 likes
    Are we gonna get to see a list of results? (for those of us out of towners) I'm keen to see how everyone did. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  37. 4 likes
    That camera looks serious! Does it double as a dash duster? All cleaned and fueled up ready for tomorrow morning, looking forward to seeing some of these other rides coming!
  38. 4 likes
    I'm driving up from Rotorua so cant guarantee itll be clean but I'll wipe the cobwebs off [emoji6] however I can guarantee a burning oil smell as the rocker covers have given up Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
  39. 4 likes
    Stuffed centre diff. Super common for these cars. Once warmed up they bind to varying extents when making tight and slow turns. CV’s are the cheaper and easier option to try first if you want but i’d put my money on the diff considering it only does it after driving for some time. There’s an Aussie guy on the liberty forum and FB called Corgiwerx who rebuilds these. Have yet to hear anything bad about one of his, but works on an exchange basis so you need to send your stuffed one to him which obviously adds to the cost. As long as he has a spare one at the time he doesn't need your one straight away so you can remove the old and install the new at the same time.
  40. 4 likes
    To make it more interesting for everyone to get their heads around, we used the factory auto loom, ECU and the BCM We pulled out the AT control unit and did some magic wiring
  41. 3 likes
    What Inked said is the best practice. If you've seen the likes of @RaKid's engine bay, and you want quality work (Not saying the others suggested aren't at all) then BD Motorsport is a place I'd recommend. A close friend of mine who used to work for them, and is now working for Cameron Racing in the states for GT stuff, says their work is top notch and Ben is really good at his stuff.
  42. 3 likes
    Or......... Do it right with some fender flares and meaty rubber to match the rims
  43. 3 likes
    We're stoked to welcome Killer B Motorsport to our growing lineup of products. A whole lot of engineering goes into their products to ensure everything released is the absolute best quality and provides real world improvements. Their sumps, baffles and pickups are super popular in the USA and their headers are proven awesome. Be sure to visit their website www.killerbmotorsport.net and get in touch for any of their parts you might be interested in. We are adding the lineup to the website of course as well for easy browsing. Any questions just send me a DM or email sales@mlracing.co.nz
  44. 3 likes
    Washed it myself for the first time since at least November... Forgot how big the thing is
  45. 3 likes
    Interested to see what these put down stock (as I own one). Sadly can't make it - hopping off to Aussie for 2 weeks with Dad. He wants to have a break from NZ for a bit, after all that's happened for our family recently.
  46. 3 likes
    Hi all, hope everyone enjoyed Waitangi Day, I found it a bit odd having a mid week day off but it was mint nonetheless! This is happening on Saturday at 9:00am! Event Date: 9th February 2019 @ 9AM Address: 159C Manukau Rd, Pukekohe It looks like we have a pretty sweet lineup with power levels that cover the board nicely. Sadly some have fallen, some have succumbed to the brutality of their owners "Cough.. thats me" the BPE Wagon has stepped up though . I know there are a couple others on the list that are getting last minute jobs done so I wish them all the best and look forward to seeing some gnarly power runs. Car Type Power Claim BPE 3.0L Wagon 135kw 98 Mazda MX5 160kw s203 210kw gen 3 leggy wagon at least 6kw 2003 Subaru Legacy S401 160kw V5 STi 350kw ish.. Hybrid RA FULL SEND s14 de+t 130kw MY01 wrx impreza ??? Cheers Aidin
  47. 3 likes
    370kw on 26psi an 404kw on 29psi. On 98 gas Engines built to run 36-40psi (sleeved,cnc closed deck,dowelled,custom aged head studs etc) so were not really pushing it to its capabilities on rolling dyno Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
  48. 3 likes
    Dude the NT03 have free shipping! I reckon they'd look mean on a 3rd or 4th gen. They're the same wheels as the 4th gen photo I posted and the wheels on the front of this B4:
  49. 3 likes
    Gen 4 2.0L turbo Legacies are all twin-scroll turbo 38mm headers vs Impreza 42mm Different flange and up-pipe bracket iirc Prone to running bearings and turbos
  50. 3 likes
    Would highly recommend umbrellas unless you plan to be in the trees all day.