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Posts
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Well wasted most of a day chasing an issue with chips not flashing. Desoldered parts rechecked with multimeter as seemed to be a possible short or something in the design blocking normal boot up. I ended up tacking some wires directly to another microcontroller in the batch I have and it had same fault. Seems the older chips I got have a higher current draw than my normal programmer supports. Finally dug out an older one and got code to upload ok. re-soldered everything I removed so tomorrow I’ll try the canbus. After that I’ll build up another board and fit it into the case with LEDs and light sensor as a finished unit. If this works I’ll order the newest 9th revision and also the power/can board for the tiny LCD screen ones.
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Managed to finally get some more progress as parts arrived last week. I soldered up the switching and regulator power supply using solder paste and heat plate which worked on all but one tiny chip. Solder bridged 2 pins but that was easy to clean up. I fitted both diodes backwards, one as didn’t check, the other I knew was backwards but was working off old schematic. All voltages were good, so tomorrow I’ll add the can bus section and hopefully the micro controller. I missed ordering the tiny capacitors for the canbus but the voltage sections are overly filtered and won’t impact testing. The static protection chip wasn’t ordered either as that want needed to test.
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You may want to look at dielectric grease for those plugs. https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/permatex-permatex-dielectric-grease-.33-oz/379868.html
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Also note After alot of research im now unsure of TPS is even the problem Most OBD1 Code lists show code 31 as Throttle Position sensor fault and code 43 is 43 Accelerator Pedal Switch which is different to Throttle Position sensor fault and idle switch fault which is 42 I just checked and double decked the ECU Pinouot for Z4 Ecu and Stock BC5 Ecu and there is no wire or input for such 43 Accelerator Pedal Switch >_ < -
Omfg so after checking every circuit in the entire harness, resistance testing &volt drop testing everything replacing alternator and battery My power to earth connection short was my door switch wiring >_ < corrosion had caused both wires to touch causing a short, and the corrosion in the plug was so but it wasnt enough power to blow the fuse Now reading OL (0) between +ve lead when removed from battery and earth lead Tps is still faulting, I let it idle for an hour with no fault code appearing drove it and code appears im going to bite the bullet and order a brand new one
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