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About marc

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  1. Hey Guys! So no go for clubsub at clubfest by the looks, correct?
  2. Ill try to make it for some more track numbers although the cars engine bay is empty! I will update closer to the time but will put in some effort shortly
  3. You can clearance the frame and it looks real tidy if you do it right. Only need to take off 5 or so mm and in the contour of the header (should be single skin/layer) and then paint the edge black. Tomei headers require this on GDB with frame fitted. I would suggest leaving it on there imo. Bit hard over the net as cant see anything but have done the above several times for the the same type headers and if i recall correctly the SSI as pretty much identical copy of Tomei Expreme
  4. 2mm? the engine will probably rock more then that under load.. Any signs of it touching on the headers aka rub/scuff marks etc
  5. If there is a genuine issue with the car could well be in the cam timing if the ecu hasnt been touched. Ie check it hasnt magically jumped a tooth on the cam timing and after that use laptop sofware to check/confirm inlet cam actual advance against the cam advance table. Check all the simple stuff first ie load orientated but if you are still not having any luck may be worth checking the above to rule it out..
  6. Crank is at STD 52mm, miked and was within spec. I would probably just run ACL duraglide as its not going to be making big power right? Ether way with building any engine there is no garentee the clearances will be spot on as there are minor variations in rods + cranks and bearings and if all the little variations work against each other in the given combo the clearance will be out hence rod re sizing crank polishing, cap grinding etc. Id start with some STD acl or bearing shells and then measure up your clearances and go from there and hopefully they will be in spec without doing anything and should do for your application
  7. Just to chuck a spanner in the works from memory there are two different twin scroll flanges... From what i can remember yours uses the JDM BP/BL legacy style Twin scroll turbo outlet flange and not the STI flange (above pictured next to single scroll). Just pays to check so you dont get setup a second time
  8. I think so lol. sold it last year to a mate whos in the army and hasnt gotn as much use as one would like due to his line of work and lack of storage in situation at this point in time so may pop up on trademe at some stage..
  9. This sounds abit unfortunate! ..I still float around from time to time
  10. Give Taylor Automotive in Grafton a ring and see what they can do for ya these days if you havent already tryed..
  11. Damn I should hurry up and make a few decatted ones to sell or something going by this thread haha
  12. Or look for some genuine STI twin scroll headers with stock heat sheilds if you are after response and cant afford displacement.. Thoes big primarys wont be doing you any favours and you have more manifold to fill.. (yes its TS but litrally almost have twice the mani to fill and thoes SSI have big pipes..) No trade off with displacement with you really spence lol your scared of the red line so reving a 2.5 to 7000 would be right up your ally
  13. Sure is, its Eden and yes modded v7 sti scoop onto GC8 scoop
  14. Yeah they do fit aslong as its the version 8 full length one (ie just the cat and looks like a normal one) Except for the flange ofcource. Some NZ new and the v9 on use one thats abit different length..
  15. Bit hard to diagnose over the phone but had narrowed it down to afm related symptoms via your call. Turns out when people use COILPACKS (1x Coil on plug) as a BOV Recirc bung they dont work very welL!!!!!!!!!!!!! Knew i should have changed it when I saw that though to myself some people (rolled eyes!!). surprised it stayed in on your track days etc! None the less sorted that and your exh gasket and a trip to west .. Would have been nice to run it in myself but i was not so sure I wanted a possible fine haha.