Andy_Mac

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Everything posted by Andy_Mac

  1. Was going to try these but this other gromet looked like it might work too, plus fairly sure the hole in the cradle is too big for one of these so would need a new upper to try with these. They completely isolate the wiring outside from inside with crimped eyelets on each side and seals around a stud so no chance of fuel tracking up. https://www.nzefi.com/product/submersible-fuel-pump-bulk-head-terminal/
  2. The new gromet is dry but the fuel is tracking up the inside of the wire and seeping out at the heatshrink
  3. You mean before the insulation starts separate the inner strands enough to get goo between them all?
  4. Attempt number three to seal the fuel cradle has now failed. The gromet is sealing perfectly but there is now a very slight weep coming through the wiring underneath the insulation. Not sure if there is any way to actually seal a multicore cable other than maybe soldering where the insulation starts to try seal the centre wires to each other and then have a smooth surface for the heat shrink to bind to. Using the resin filled raychem heat shrink but assume it isn't rated for fuel. Think getting another stock cradle top and a surge tank is the smart/mentally soothing way to go from here.
  5. Could do, Personally I like them as they are
  6. Dunno. It's been on Facebook for sale for a little while. Yea Kiwami’s. 9.5’s too so it has the deeper concave unlike mine which are quite flat. YouTube is the easiest for sharing videos and audio. Just copy the link and paste it on here.
  7. Don't think they ever changed anything, no evidence of any real changes to the castings after the move to dual avcs. Chances are the temp variance was within spec for stock power levels and it's only once pushing things that it starts to really show up. The only one I know of that they tweaked was the V7 spec C which got a completely different casting for The right hand head due to coolant limitations apprently. Normal was RHS20V but the Spec C got RHC, left head stayed the same with the LHS20V
  8. Talk to @A_J_T regarding logging and tuning. He’s one of the few that has done it with third gens. Jump on the romraider and openecu sites and have a read up on the walkthroughs they have. Most won't completely match up with what you will be doing but getting your head around all the ideas and processes ahead of time is a smart thing to do.
  9. pro-wholesale is the place to go for Ultraracing stuff, tell them you are a member here and they might give you a discount, used to be more than the 5% mentioned above
  10. I've got the Kein pitchstop in mine and rate it highly for firmness without much NVH at all. It uses a smaller, firmer rubber bush on the large side which I guess soaks up the vibrations better than any of the poly options out there.
  11. Has anyone tried this cooling mod? Besides Dom’s post I've yet to find any real data from others proving it actually has done what it should do. It basically just allows coolant to exit the head at the back which promotes flow around cylinder 4 which ’apparently’ tends to stagnate a bit with the normal routing. There doesn't seem to be much of a downside other than reducing flow through the heater core which isn't a huge biggy round these ways. Kinda keen to give it a go on the new motor since it'll be super easy to do before putting it in. Obviously I'll make up my own kit rather than pay 80+USD for a small length of hose, T, bung and a few clamps. https://www.iagperformance.com/GDT-Cylinder-4-Chamber-Cooling-System-WRX-STI-p/gdt-1005.htm
  12. They all have issues on anything less than 98, some people just choose to ignore the signs. If you're getting it tuned then it doesn't matter. You could get it tuned for 95 or even 91 if you wanted, you'll just be leaving a lot of potential power behind. Ask to do a quick pull to redline if doing a test run They often have stuffed secondary turbo’s which a lot of people never realise as they don't go over 4k rpm.
  13. I had a look after you mentioned them last time @Inked, all they had for Legacy’s/Liberty’s was window visors. I'm kinda keen to get a mid spoiler for mine. Reckon it looks mint on this wagon.
  14. Andy_Mac

    V7 sti TPS

    No TPS sensor on DBW setups. It's built into the same unit and same elec connector
  15. Eww... So they are charging you the cost of a full tune but get someone in the UK to try modify it right and send back? Sounds like an expensive e-tune to me
  16. Old @Niran knows about how expensive it can be getting a vehicle up from down south to Auckland
  17. Try find the factory back lines from a wreck as the centre piece is hard plastic so will fit nicer than just hoses run across. Wonder what has been done about the second crankcase breather port on the right
  18. Just had a chat to Tony about this. Joining one head to the crankcase isn't a major and is apparently quite a common way to do it. Front ports are the ones with the head baffling so are the ones to connect to the catch can. The rear one's are the ones that should have the factory balance system attached. Here’s how mine is. Front port goes to tee then AOS.
  19. Could use an inline filter and extend a line down by the trans like the IAG race AOS to try reduce any odours. From factory the second ports just cross between the two heads to equalise any pressure which will help with emptying a head back if it fills when on the track. I asked Tony a while back about deleting them and he was strongly against it. This is with vacuum pulling the oil out of the heads which yours won't have so may not be an issue I guess.
  20. Why are the front ports on the heads blocked? They apparently work well at equalising pressure between the two heads. Teeing the two heads And having the crankcase separate is the better method. Does the catch can just vent to atmosphere? Without it attached to the intake there won't be a heap of flow, most of it will be from the crankcase so you'll probably end up pushing any oil from the crankcase back into the drivers side head eventually.
  21. Aren't the ball joints the same, you just need to make sure the STI arms come with the insert for the alloy arms. Volk4 on Trademe dismantles a heap in Hamilton so might be good to ask.
  22. @Omsin I thought I'd heard something like that before too. Weird that some of the options work, but guess those one's could be sized for the larger studs and have more space for potential misalignment which they wouldn't want on the performance options. Hardrace make hardened rubber one’s which i’m quite a fan of. Most of the poly performance without the inherent issues poly often comes with.
  23. It'll certainly look better once back at standard height with the arm closer in line with the post but can't see it flexing back enough to not be marginally sloppy. The spherical style that the facelift STI’s got are much better, don't suppose you know if they fit the WRX models @Gripless? The basic type from Whiteline (W53353) is listed to fit both but the spherical style (KCA425) only shows WRX’s from the VA gen as being compatible.
  24. What brand is it? Most of the companies are pretty good with replacing them free of charge
  25. Looks like the right part. Hard to tell from your pic but the centre isn't actually perfectly centred on a lot of these. From your pic it almost looks like it was pressed in backwards and that the wider side is inboard rather than outboard. Any idea how old they are? Poly doesn't last particularly well in instances with side on twisting so chances are it's just done it's run and should be replaced.