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Everything posted by Andy_Mac

  1. Hitting 20 when off the throttle is normal. I still think there is another leak somewhere too. You logic of it being post turbo was what I was thinking too, isn't a guarantee though. The quickest and easiest way is to do a proper pressurised leak check or smoke test. There is a lot of stuff going on in these cars so finding it by trial and error will take forever.
  2. Yea those figures will never be perfect but there definitely is something not quite right there. Fuel correct will always jump around a bit but fuel learn should stay at zero at all points if there is no problems. Side tip, BTSSM sometimes messes up file types when saving so some logs will be saved as .txt which doesn't work, but all you need to do is change the file type to .csv and it behaves as it should.
  3. Give it another day and see if the fuel trims change again. Has the car got the factory intake? Yea your ECU is the same as the standard 06 Legacy Spec B 6MT which is what mine is. The tactrix is fairly simple. PM me your email and I'll send you some of the files and info I've collected for all this. You need to add a separate def file for this ECU as it is still in experimental status so isn't included as standard.
  4. Ooooohhhhh very interesting. Have you paid Dave yet? If you are comfortable, could you pull your ROM and send it to me. I'd like to make a few changes then get you to flash it and drive around a bit, mainly around boost control, will be safe changes with lower limits than stock. That is the same ECU ID as mine which Cryo could not tune properly as the tables the definition points to are not the tables the ECU reads so changes make zero difference. I'd be very very interested to see if it was something weird with mine or actually the incorrect definition as I have always suspected. The way around this is to flash a base map from another car and carry over all data from your map to that one. Extremely time consuming if already tuned but most tables should be the same for a stock tune. I eventually found a ROM that worked and successfully tuned mine. Peaking at 21ish psi and made an estimated 200wkw+ The stock tune from Japan is for 100. How long after resetting is the 100 LV? It looks like a lot of the figures haven't had enough time to settle on their correct numbers yet. Based on the fuel correction figures in the 95 LV you've got an intake leak somewhere which you'll want to fix before going any further. A 3-port solenoid also works well on these but you need to let Dave know if you get one so he can modify the boost tables.
  5. Don't suppose they're matte black Kiwami’s?
  6. Don't think there is much of a Subaru specific scene over there. Fairly sure most of the Subaru guys that have been on here are just part of this club and go to those events.
  7. Nah really not a simple process to do it right. To get the rumble you'll need to replace headers, uppipe, turbo, downpipe, intercooler and a bunch of other little bits and pieces. You could get there by doing just the headers and then having a custom uppipe made but it'll definitely behave worse than it does now. Could be slightly worse or could be massively worse, it’s a bit of a gamble.
  8. Dash Command is a good one, not free though.
  9. Yea, at the very least. Not sure on the impedance of the base spec speakers and whether they will be happy with the amp. The amp lives under the passenger seat so extending all the current wires from the dash to there would be needed too. Seems like a hell of a lot of work for very little gain, besides a better looking unit obviously. If you're still keen and need the amp cable at any point I've still got my one under the carpet I can dig out.
  10. The Mcintosh one uses an amp and a round multipin connector cable between the two. Plugging your existing loom in will get some things working as you have experienced but you’ll get no sound as it is trying to output it to the rest of the setup you currently don't have. No idea on the antenna/swc issue, may be the same plugs but some differences in hardware. Have never heard of people needing to change either of those when doing the complete swap though.
  11. Rubber at the start is a terrible idea. Copper capillary tube works pretty well. Use that for the majority of the line then transition to rubber closer to the sensor. That's how I did my old one and it worked sweet for a few years.
  12. They only really get flack because they use the same turbo setup as the BL/BP Legacy’s which doesn't have much of an upgrade path beyond tearing it all out and starting again. The STI’s and normal WRX’s have a huge base of aftermarket engine parts that doesn't really exist for these outside of Japan.
  13. Pretty sure it was Highbrook auto that @sobanoodle and a few others were using for exhaust work a few years back.
  14. Ahh so they're STI controls rather than Legacy ones, which stayed silver the whole way through. So at what point did the STI’s get the black controls then? I was also always under the impression the STI’s never got the separate mode and mute button and just had one large button instead.
  15. And she’s in, seems the controls that came with the wheel are either a different, darker version or all my silver trim pieces have just faded a heap over the years, not sure whether I should swap my old ones in or not. Install took a grand total of about 30mins with half of that spent finding the correct sized torx bit for the airbag. 😒
  16. Something in the trans will still be stuffed, don't spend too much time over-thinking it, take it back and insist it gets fixed properly. The gauge on the dash won't tell you if the trans is getting too hot but the smell could just be that they spilled some fluid when refilling the trans and that is now burning off somewhere.
  17. Don't suppose it says what it is expecting voltage/resistance wise? Could fake it with a transformer and a bunch of resistors to achieve a particular speed that allows it.
  18. Can you not just ground the wires like the older models that are supposed to be connected to the handbrake circuit. The Legacy’s don't exactly have a speed sensor from the gearbox or to the dash as it is CAN based so not completely sure where you would get it from. Edit: read through that link now. Have never heard of this OP connector before, it’d make aftermarket stereo installs miles easier if it is there. Might have to have a look to see if there is one on mine.
  19. Finding what the code refers to for a Subaru is probably a better start. P1559 Air Intake System It is essentially saying the air/fuel mixture is wrong. Could be many things, faulty MAF, Injectors, fuel pump, fuel reg, torn intake pipe or vac line. Checking for intake leaks with compressed air or a smoke test is probably the best starting point.
  20. Assume it is an electronic and not mechanical one correct? There is a grommet on the passenger side of the firewall that is reasonably easy to access in the cabin, comes down just behind the glovebox. Feed the wires up from there towards the hole where you’ll remove the clock to get power, then feed it over to wherever you want the gauge. Following a proper YouTube/forum how-to is a good way though, they’ll typically show you the best way to unclip trim pieces to avoid wrecking anything. If you want to spend more money then a block8head gauge pod will look way better than the standard pods these kind of gauges come with too.
  21. It's a pretty safe mod TBH. Pulling power from the clock wires is usually the easiest way to do it. Where in the Bay are you?
  22. Depends on what gauge you get but i’d say 1-1.5. It's a nice easy mod to do yourself really. Can be a bit time-consuming feeding wires through the firewall if you don't know where to look which is probably why they want so much.
  23. Imagine there’s a hefty euro tax for any aftermarket BMW parts. It did cross my mind but not sure if I'd use it enough to bother. The wheel came with all of those so will probably just flick them on.
  24. Still bloody pricey but considerably cheaper than importing myself.