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About swamp

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  1. You're right. I've only ran no thermostat to see if that really does fix the issue. So far so good. Car has been bled and after 2 fan cycles and a little driveway test, no overheating. Only thing I haven't really done is a test drive. I won't be driving it at all, until I get a new thermostat, as well as flushing it and replacing the coolant(*water) in there.
  2. UPDATE: So today I pulled off the lower rad hose and managed to undo the two 10mm bolts on the water spout/thermostat housing(?). The coolant within my radiator was the colour of muddy water whereas when I was undoing the thermostat and had it removed the coolant was more green. Could've been a sign the two weren't mixing? Ripped off the thermostat and it was much harder than the internet would have you believe. Big hands tight spaces are no fun. Tested it in boiling water and it did not open up - im not sure if I did it right but I boiled it at high temp to get it as hot as I could. Still no luck. Im going to conclude that it is a stuck thermostat causing my issues! I'm not sure how it would be explained when I was overheating, but it would be cool to get a better understanding of it all. I'm guessing hot coolant got blocked at the thermostat, and the radiator was trying to send cool coolant through system. I will order a genuine unit - does anyone know best dealership to get in touch with? I'll also get a like for like radiator cap. I really want an sti one but I've read the extra pressure is not good for non sti cooling system longevity. When I have the money I will also order some Subaru Oem coolant - something about different metals leading to corrosion... Til then I will run no thermostat and just water. Good thing she's not daily driven! Fyi I think my thermostat is non oem if anyone can confirm. On it is written 170N 23 43 STC / 56MM USA
  3. Dont you think it's weird though, that a thermostat would stop working as a result of the things I've done to the cooling system, even though it was working fine before? I'm thinking if I go over the work I've done pull off IM and double check and everything's fine, the next step I should take is inspecting thermostat and rad cap. I've never had to troubleshoot overheating issues before. I'm just wondering if it is actually possible for a thermostat to go bad after filler tank has been disconnected.
  4. I will test the thermostat then. If that's the issue I will replace - most people go with oem rather than aftermarket, right? I feel it could be something I did not reconnect properly, such as the coolant temp sensor, or something not connected to the coolant tube that runs below the intake manifold. It's weird that my thermostat may be at fault - I do have all/most of the symptoms of a bad thermostat - but it was working fine prior to the work done. I don't know if it could happen, but maybe all the water rushing out+air pockets acting on it killed my thermo which was probably on its way out anyway. Iwould replacing the radiator cap be a waste of money? I suppose it could be that I've connected a hose wrongly, it's sending coolant to the wrong place, and the thermostat is functioning fine but no coolant from the radiator is being sent to the engine.
  5. Just from looking at the temp gauge. It usually runs a tad over half way, which I guess is from being filled with more water than coolant, and because turbo Subaru engine bays are relatively Hot. It goes from anywhere between 3/4 of the way up to all the way up. Last night sat at just a bit under the highest point.
  6. Bad news. I bled the car today with the front jacked up, but after getting the fans to cycle on and revving, the car overheated. With the rad cap off. This says to me it's not that there's an issue with air in the system. Im guessing I've mixed up hoses. From the tank, top one leads to the turbo. Bottom hose leads to the metal coolant 'tunnel'beneatj the intake manifold. I've forgot its proper name. I'll have to remove IM when I get back next week and have a look.
  7. Hi guys Car in question is a GF8 with an ej20g engine. Recently I disconnected my coolant fill tank when I removed my intake manifold for painting and I've had an overheating issue since. I've bled the system alot and I think I've got the majority of the air out of it. I am using straight water though but that'll be remedied when I do flush the system. Today (second day of bleeding) everything looked stable no air coming out of the coolant, so I fitted my rad cap and took her for a test drive with the temp gauge in usual spot. Not long after that, it overheated. Ive shut my engine off and given it a rest for five min and it has gone right back down to midway. It quickly rose though. The temp gauge does fluctuate, so does the tachometer intermittently, mainly when I was off throttle rolling downhill. That suggests to me I've reconnected something incorrectly. I am pretty confident I've reconnected coolant hoses from the tank properly - the one at rear leads to the metal bit on top of the engine beneath the manifold, not to the block directly. I don't see any oil in coolant or coolant in oil. It could be an issue with my heater, as my a/c does not work due to a short. However my car was not overheating before when the heater was not working. Coolant does gush out once cap is removed Hot and steam. I'm at a loss as to what it could be. I'm guessing it's my half arse intake manifold job. I really hope I haven't hooked up an oil hose to where a coolant hose has supposed to go.
  8. As a set they're so expensive on yahoo Japan. Just out of curiosity, what cars were these a factory option on? I'm guessing the Legacies after the BG gen as they have genome mufflers.
  9. Cheers Loren that was a big help. I've got mine off, fuel lines and injectors can come off with the manifold but it'll need to be removed from manifold once off the car. Much easier that way. The main challenge was getting stuff out of the way for the Mani to come right off. If you have a hose or line in the way it'll stop it, along with any electrical connections/cable ties. I found my loom connectors were behind my battery. This may be of help to anyone doing their car and it happens to be an early ej20g. Fuel hoses from filter I marked top as R mid as Y bottom as G easy like a traffic light, got that idea from a YouTube video. It was pretty hard to do overall with the amount of hoses. Try and stay organized with bolts and hoses and parts etc. I've kept a few parts in a similar position so I don't muck up their orientation when it comes to putting back on. If I have time I'll check out how to inspect fuel injectors. Unfortunately I don't have the money to get new gaskets but that can be done later.
  10. Apply wax and grease remover and wipe dry. Sand down using wet and dry. Begin at like 400g, progressively move to 1000g. You shouldn't need primer. Make sure no dust or w&g remains. I find w&g is the enemy even decent brands. Mask off like others had said. If blending it's a bit harder with cans, fold your masking tape back a little so it's not a hard edge and DO NOT spray all the way down. Try and fade/blend it in. I spray two light coats or as many as needed for good coverage with 15-20min breaks in between. Once dry wet sand with 2000g lightly. Let dry and cover with 2k clear, thick but not too thick that it runs. Two coats should be OK. Once dry wet sand with 2000g and let it sit for a week or so then compound and polish. Should blend in nicely with existing paint, providing that that paint isn't faded
  11. Hey guys and girls Have pored over the forum and the web for info on the best way to remove my intake manifold for cleaning/painting. At first sight it is a mish with all the hoses and parts connected to it and also blocking access to bolts etc. But no doubt it is doable. I would like to know how you did it, as well as any general precautions I should take? Engine in question is an early EJ20G, one with no coil pack thingy on top. In order I would probably go with: Air intake Breather hoses on top Throttle body Throttle cable Coolant lines to reservoir That's all I can think of now. I've never done this on a flat four or on any other type of engine lol.
  12. It definitely is a pain in the ass. Check under dash too if you have a boost gauge as air can leak there too and it's often overlooked. Glad you got the issue sorted without spending much $$$
  13. Hmm. Does your car struggle to reach 50-60km/h? Use a lot of gas? Trigger a CEL? Run fine off boost? If so, it is running in limp mode. From what you've described I would probably check the spark side of things first. This is because reaching X amount of rpm and then cutting out is usually signs of something bad with the spark. Check plugs and leads for obvious signs of wear. It could be bad coil(s) but you'd have to check first. Advise you to check check check before spending money as it'll get expensive I've fixed a Nissan sr20de auto with similar issues, was Cam angle sensor not sending right messages to ecu to deliver spark, plugs leads dizzy were all rooted. Plus my gf8 recently had a gaping hole in compressor-ic pipe and I had cleaned out intake parts with brake kleen after it had sat for 8+ months. It blew black smoke used a lot of gas and did not want to boost. Replacing the worn/fouled plugs fixed my issue but I also ran through injector cleaner and replaced fuel filter for peace of mind.
  14. Hey guys and gals Just wondering if there's anything I can do about my steering wheel no longer locking. I recently got a new steering rack put in for a wof as the garage reckoned it was leaking from within. Replaced ps pump last year. The two plastic bits over my steering column were previously pretty loose but now kinda rub on the steering wheel when I turn it. Steering wheel lock is a good anti theft device... But working power steering feels so stiff and much safer than the light sloppy steering im used to. Thoughts please on how I can get my steering wheel lock back?
  15. Hey guys, I've done a bit of searching the forum and web but still no answers. My central locking no longer works - it'll lock all doors by both key and remote but when it comes to opening the doors I will have to use the key in drivers and manually unlock other doors. I've sprayed a bit of CRC in the assembly which got it working for like ten secs but it got stuck again. I've put the issue down to the drivers door actuator motor box. After pressing or turning key to unlock, there's a slow sticky sluggish sound to it. Im not sure if it's that, or all five doors need replacing. Also model in question is a my94 turbo GF8, have lost the link to interchangable parts list but can anyone confirm if non turbo actuators of gf/gc series are the same? Thanks