swamp

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  1. Best thing I can advise is to prepare your case get all your evidence together and write a whole load of crap, timelines, reports, texts, evidence, etc on why you are right and they are wrong. Unless our forum mates are experienced in this sort of thing or well versed in the relevant legal acts or practicing lawyers, I would say don't take their word as gospel and just give it a shot. You've got nothing to lose but a bit of pride and a 50ish dollars and time. If you are doing it for the wrong reasons i.e. change your mind then the big man/woman infront of you will pick up on it real quick and throw your case out. Im 1-0 in the motor vehicles disputes tribunal, 0-0 in small claims, and a former employee of the MVDT.
  2. /THREAD DREDGE Might be a bit easier to work this out if we list car, how we use it, and what oil we use like other Subaru forums do. I wanna know what kind of oil without paying for a FSM, lol. 1995 Impreza WRX (GF8) 238,000km so far 15w-40 (Valvoline Engine Armour), 10w-40 Nulon Semi Synthetic Changed every 3000km Daily use (temporary), has been used just on weekends, no track use (country roads east and west of Auckland, but now used on straight boring roads of central NI). Reckon I'm using the wrong oil and need to get fully synthetic 10-30 or 10-40, and avoid 15w-xx.
  3. Car manufacturers go for small displacement with turbo now so to make their vehicles more efficient, as opposed to using a bigger engine to make sure that it is still powerful/torquey enough when fully loaded with passengers, fuel, crap in the back etc. This is because the cars now have more electronic devices, airbags/safety equipment which all add weight as safety and emissions testing is much more strict than what it was 20+ years ago. Based on how much they spent on R&D to come to that conclusion, I'm going to say small displacement with turbo is more fuel efficient than larger displacement... That being said, there are more things to take into account - can small displacement turbo be run safely on 91, which is generally 15-25c cheaper per litre? and how you drive is also to be considered as previously mentioned here. And really you may save in fuel consumption, but the average joe or joanne will not like to do regular oil changes with the expensive oil needed for turbo applications, and there is the added complexity of the turbo - more **** to go wrong. So as a v1 WRX owner, I'd say if you were after consuming less fuel and by extension money I'd go for NA. I get about 8.8km/l with majority of those kms being spent on hilly backroads. Around town is terrible. Also those quoted km/l figures of new cars are grossly exaggerated imo take them with a pinch of salt, they must've drove like robots to get those figures. I've driven a 3-4 year old Corolla rental 6spd and got worse fuel economy than my 28 year old 2L NA MR2, both driven in similar ways and on similar roads.
  4. Hey guys Just wondering as I do want to build a 22b replica (maybe just a 22b inspired wide body coupe is a better way to describe it) what would be the best engine to go with? I don't want to make massive horsepower, just have a reliable+cheap 320 or so hp. Sound is important as is keeping things lightweight, but I do want to do it right and not blow s*** up from running crazy amounts of boost.
  5. Yeah I will.. I'm guessing it's cheaper when your heads aren't warped. Just missus van leaks water from two split hoses which I'm waiting on so I dont have to punish my HGs.
  6. Shàll I just change them before they blow then? I'm about 8000kms away from a timing belt change so can do it all in one hit. No water/oil mixing to speak of yet.
  7. Hey guys I'm still having overheating issues. I initially fixed up my car so I could drive it when I moved halfway across the North island. It drove fine on the open road with the temp gauge slightly below halfway. No issues to speak of for a while.. Recently however I've noticed that temp gauge will heat up and get 2/3 or so of the way up as I drive round town.. I have kept an eye on the overflow and tank levels. Today it made its way right up but 30m down the road went back down to 2/3. Removed radiator cap and no steam or boiling. In the morning it got hot too, and it was 5deg out. At home checked if fans were turning on and nope, they didn't. But just ran it for 30sec.. I'm not sure what it could be. I bled the system following a tried and true method on the forum, replaced radiator cap, flushed radiator, replaced faulty thermostat with new OEM unit..
  8. Depends on your budget. Cheap? Look for a muffler that doesn't have a crazy big diameter tip. $$$? Maybe get another resonator or go from say 3" to 2.75" or 2.5" at a certain point. IIRC I went from a 4" single exit STI unit on my gf8 to no tip due to it rusting out, then a dual 3.5" or 3.25" exit eBay muffler and it drones less but still sounds nice. Look for an oval shaped muffler as opposed to a round one. One with more baffles will muffle better imo.
  9. Can confirm Mark at Manawatu Toyota is good to deal with too, by email and phone when you need to confirm payment details. Fair shipping prices too.
  10. Hey lads I'm thinking of setting up a trailer plug when I do get my tow bar, is it simple enough to do? I'm yet to look at a wiring diagram but I'm guessing I'd have to find the power and ground of the stop and indicators and simply splice into them. Can anyone confirm?
  11. Thanks for that, I see that a lot of later ej20s have intercooler mounted bovs as standard. The flange is welded on to the TMIC? I guess that's not really an option for me, so I'll have to find a turbo-intercooler pipe that has a hose fitting to accept mount... Or just drill a hole and bolt in which will be rugged... But anyway are the hks knock offs legal? I thought vent to atmosphere was illegal?
  12. I did my girlfriend's ford festiva headlights with 180g and 240g and cut and polished, turned out alright but would advise using finer grades after to get rid of scratches. Would be satisfying on yellow as hell lights.
  13. Got it done in less than a day the other week, I followed a great method on here - raising front, pouring in while massaging air out of hoses, then bleed with car on, revving every couple of mins, then bleed with cap on. My car now runs a few degrees lower than halfway but was creeping up when moving slow... I put that down to it self bleeding/overflow bottle needed refilling. Upper hose kinda leaks air when squeezed now, probably needs replacing soon! Anyway if anyone else is doing a bleed, look up the above method. It'll take you half a day tops.