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  1. Later model gf/GC say v3 onwards I think came as a trim LEVEL SRX - pretty much a warm version of the impreza, not a hot version - no turbo but highest spec NA. Pretty sure in Japan buyers were given a lot of optional extras at the dealerships, hence different stickers side skirts badging etc.
  2. He really earnt his stripes
  3. Just wondering as I do like both and wouldnt mind having either as a daily, obviously both a bit cooler than rivals cr-v/rav4 and cheaper than other small contempary 4x4s. Dont mind if turbo or not, would actually prefer non turbo so I don't spend too much money on it, and maybe also auto so my Mrs can drive it lol. So reliability and a bulletproof drive train are important, as we all know ej20 are bulletproof lol but what about the 4g63 and Subie autos?
  4. $1 reserve tm as above. Serious buyers and one man's trash is another man's treasure. Facebook has the deals but majority tyre kickers.
  5. Looking forward to see what replaces it and what new technologies they incorporate.
  6. Check plugs coils and leads You can actually test resistance of plugs to be 100% sure. I'd suggest cleaning throttle body and IACV (you may need new gaskets for them too) if it hasn't been done recently but use the old plugs when you do as if there's lots of crap in your intake mani it can bugger your iridium$$$ You'd know if it was firing on 3 cylinders, would sound and feel very bad, stalling and limp mode and even failing to start is more serious. If it throws a code check that. If you need help plenty of info on YouTube or on here or message me.
  7. Best thing I can advise is to prepare your case get all your evidence together and write a whole load of crap, timelines, reports, texts, evidence, etc on why you are right and they are wrong. Unless our forum mates are experienced in this sort of thing or well versed in the relevant legal acts or practicing lawyers, I would say don't take their word as gospel and just give it a shot. You've got nothing to lose but a bit of pride and a 50ish dollars and time. If you are doing it for the wrong reasons i.e. change your mind then the big man/woman infront of you will pick up on it real quick and throw your case out. Im 1-0 in the motor vehicles disputes tribunal, 0-0 in small claims, and a former employee of the MVDT.
  8. /THREAD DREDGE Might be a bit easier to work this out if we list car, how we use it, and what oil we use like other Subaru forums do. I wanna know what kind of oil without paying for a FSM, lol. 1995 Impreza WRX (GF8) 238,000km so far 15w-40 (Valvoline Engine Armour), 10w-40 Nulon Semi Synthetic Changed every 3000km Daily use (temporary), has been used just on weekends, no track use (country roads east and west of Auckland, but now used on straight boring roads of central NI). Reckon I'm using the wrong oil and need to get fully synthetic 10-30 or 10-40, and avoid 15w-xx.
  9. Car manufacturers go for small displacement with turbo now so to make their vehicles more efficient, as opposed to using a bigger engine to make sure that it is still powerful/torquey enough when fully loaded with passengers, fuel, crap in the back etc. This is because the cars now have more electronic devices, airbags/safety equipment which all add weight as safety and emissions testing is much more strict than what it was 20+ years ago. Based on how much they spent on R&D to come to that conclusion, I'm going to say small displacement with turbo is more fuel efficient than larger displacement... That being said, there are more things to take into account - can small displacement turbo be run safely on 91, which is generally 15-25c cheaper per litre? and how you drive is also to be considered as previously mentioned here. And really you may save in fuel consumption, but the average joe or joanne will not like to do regular oil changes with the expensive oil needed for turbo applications, and there is the added complexity of the turbo - more **** to go wrong. So as a v1 WRX owner, I'd say if you were after consuming less fuel and by extension money I'd go for NA. I get about 8.8km/l with majority of those kms being spent on hilly backroads. Around town is terrible. Also those quoted km/l figures of new cars are grossly exaggerated imo take them with a pinch of salt, they must've drove like robots to get those figures. I've driven a 3-4 year old Corolla rental 6spd and got worse fuel economy than my 28 year old 2L NA MR2, both driven in similar ways and on similar roads.
  10. Hey guys Just wondering as I do want to build a 22b replica (maybe just a 22b inspired wide body coupe is a better way to describe it) what would be the best engine to go with? I don't want to make massive horsepower, just have a reliable+cheap 320 or so hp. Sound is important as is keeping things lightweight, but I do want to do it right and not blow s*** up from running crazy amounts of boost.
  11. Yeah I will.. I'm guessing it's cheaper when your heads aren't warped. Just missus van leaks water from two split hoses which I'm waiting on so I dont have to punish my HGs.
  12. Shàll I just change them before they blow then? I'm about 8000kms away from a timing belt change so can do it all in one hit. No water/oil mixing to speak of yet.
  13. Hey guys I'm still having overheating issues. I initially fixed up my car so I could drive it when I moved halfway across the North island. It drove fine on the open road with the temp gauge slightly below halfway. No issues to speak of for a while.. Recently however I've noticed that temp gauge will heat up and get 2/3 or so of the way up as I drive round town.. I have kept an eye on the overflow and tank levels. Today it made its way right up but 30m down the road went back down to 2/3. Removed radiator cap and no steam or boiling. In the morning it got hot too, and it was 5deg out. At home checked if fans were turning on and nope, they didn't. But just ran it for 30sec.. I'm not sure what it could be. I bled the system following a tried and true method on the forum, replaced radiator cap, flushed radiator, replaced faulty thermostat with new OEM unit..