BeastGRB

Here I thought it was 14-15PSI stock?

If you are trying to aim for that mid-high 200kw I suggest to do injectors which means if you are going for a re-tune it's basically more or less a new tune due to the change of fuel system; as I've been told anyways so full price for a tune ofcourse depends on who you go to. I got mine changed to 875cc. I also upgraded the turbo and it made more power and also as what you wanted it holds it's boost and does not taper off which is what your experiencing. From start of full boost to rev limit it does not taper due to the turbo in my case. I know some people have upgraded their stock wastegate spring to aftermarket to make it last a tad longer in the high rpm range but pretty sure it still falls off. Here's my dyno graph if you look at the bottom graph it holds that 22PSI quite well.

What's your current supporting mods as of now & most important your budget? For my V11 it ended being along the lines of 7K or so for the turbo upgrade including tune, supporting mods etc...

Flat shifting does not apply to autos. "Flat-foot Shifting. FLAT-FOOT SHIFTING allows you to keep your foot flat on the accelerator while changing gear, so as to minimise gearchange time and keep engine speed and torque up in preparation for the next gear. It is also possible to adjust the torque to maximise power when engaging the next gear."

Hmm, possibly. Quite a drive tho + sorting out staying in overnight.

Sold the Volks that was on my car was hoping to put it on the trusty daily Honda but funds were tight. Long awaited rims and tyres have finally arrived after much wait. Fitment is on point rubs at the front but nothing a tiny bit of camber plus fender rolling won't fix.

They are now called Work Emotion D9'rs

Yeah, that's exactly what I've heard as well being JDM the most strongest/reliable way. They do rev to 8K RPM and from knowledge V11's are semi-forged.

Was yours the 2.0L or 2.5L? From what I've heard most of the rebuilt ones have been the 2.5L engines. I'm currently at 114k's from memory on a bigger turbo & unopened engine. Cylinder leak down test came to a very good result. Also cylinder tested PSI came to between 1-3PSI difference across 4 cylinders.

Quite true. I could for sure feel the difference from initial launch to top end run. If they took your EBCS then from my guess they have set your High & Low boost settings via your Throttle Response modes (Intelligent, Sport,Sport #) - I have the same thing as I wanted to drive in low boost 90% of the time. That's a really good outcome from a stock turbo and I'm only pushing close to 250kW in mine. By chance are you rocking a 3" Turbo back exhaust? That's a hella lot of $$ for doing 2 tunes.

+1 ^ Yep, a buffer, cutting compound and headlight sealer is what I did. I was tired of looking at my misaligned bumper but since it was off I decided to freshen the headlights up a bit as well. Came out quite well. I did not expect to do this and wanted to tint my front headlights as well so it does not fog up in the future but oh well.

I ended up with getting the Scarles carbon fibre one. Originally I opted for Redline Performance VF but it looked really bad and did not fully cover the turbo exhaust housing. With this beanie it made putting it on much harder due to size of turbo; got there in the end but a lot of frustration lol. Rubs a little on the actuator gate lever but nothing that would tear the fabric to pieces.

From what I've read on some Subaru Sti cars that it doesn't like Mobil 1 oil much.

5L Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40 100% Synthetic. Get a genuine Subaru filter/sump plug washer is optional. If you go through with Jacky he will sell you 5L Motul H-tech 100 10w-40.

Cheers Im trying to retrace what I did over the weekend haha to remember if I have seen ya. Was it midnight Sat?