Gripless
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Seems worth it given the price for the DIY version. Does Subaru change the routing on later models? Seems strange they wouldn’t of it was an issue. It’s the old absence of evidence, isn’t the same as evidence of absence.
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Well that went downhill fast. On back order 🤬 and no ETA so guess plan to assemble sometime next month is out. Back to thinking about pinning the mains and reboring the mains.
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Subtech are fine for mechanical work. My car has been there a few times. They are not a tuner cobb is a tactrix cable and ECUedit software replacement after that’s it’s still a e-tune. That helps them sell their own parts. I got about 15% more power from downpipe and tune.
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Downpipe and PBMS tune is easy. It’s what I started with.
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Read the discussion around page 48 +- a few pages. Lots of good stuff 🤔
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Alloy arms flex less but in low speed crashes like hitting a curb at 20khp+ they won’t buckle and transfer the impact to the subframes. Seen it with evo swaps as well. Partsouq the bolt and whiteline bearings. Call whiteline and talk to them they like most Motorsport place are friendly.
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But if the bush is the same size keep the arms and get spherical bearings and new bolts/studs. the arms maybe longer and either have wicked camber or if corrected make the wheels stick out.
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The pre facelift STi some had rubber from factory. Think 09 maybe some had the bearings. Anyway mine had rubber and torn to s*** so I have the bottom ones. Lists WRX and STi so same size https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA334 lists only STi but says WRX as well in description https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA425M
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They make spherical bearings for just this reason. If there is sideways play in it, loaded or not replace it.
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Well labour day sales in the 🇺🇸 so ordered some wiseco boostline rods. Waiting for the customs bill now.
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Now we know why you sound deadened the car. Should’ve gone with the sedan, the boot seals. Would’ve saved you $$$
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Ordered it some 2000hp boostline rods. Nothing like overkill 😈 or “over engineering” if you want the PC 🤬version
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If you do make a second one use some nut inserts or there are cheaper ones that hammer in from the back. https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Inserts/b?node=16410011 Plus through some bracing through the middle. If you are being super accurate then add it’s volume to the box size. Also ratchet straps are good for clamping things while waiting for glue to dry. Though usually when you have 45 degree cuts to join.
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6x9 are average at best. Get a good 8-10” and some 5-6” mids. 6x9 in are box are better than parcel shelf if you have a big sub in the boot. Paper is fine for speakers depends on how it is treated, though they don’t age well as they often have foam surrounding. Tiny magnets can be great try alpine high end stuff not the R ones but F1, X or DDdrive Bigger magnets are a sales or heavyweight cone and high power for dB thing. Plus it’s sometimes a trick and lower power magnets. If you want to get geeky try Morel and hexagonal wire in the coils to reduce wasted space.
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Already have a new top mount one just sitting here. Id anyone is interested I’m not sure I need it.
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