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Gripless
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Does the alarm light start flashing if the car turns off normally? video voltage is 14.4 then 10.7 and dead is still be going to the alarm installer to get the alarm checked as it should be free and ruling it out would help heaps.
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Does the battery go flat? also does the voltage jump from 14.2 down to 12.9 or move slowly. That fault sounds like a switch that makes the voltage quickly change between those two exact values.
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Still could be alternator not holding a good voltage. The relay for alarm should be external so maybe look for that next or follow the clicking until you find the relay at fault. If the alarm keeps restarting as the voltage drops out then it will cycle the relay. Maybe easy to go back to alarm installer and get them to check their work. Could be a bad wire or a faulty main unit so be nice to start with.
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Id say the terminal are most likely loose on the battery or the relay for the alarm. The relay on alarm could be rubbing on something and shorting as well. Could be alterantor regulator isnt stable either but the multimeter should show that. Analogue ones are best but the sparkie should have tested that first. Hook the multimeter up and see if the voltage fluctuates or just cuts out. That or log the ecu voltage if you have the cable and phone/laptop.
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Does the whole power include the engine? So there no issue when the car is stationary and engine running? How long after the alarm was installed did the problem start? What stereo gear is there other than the main head unit? Do you have a multimeter? Check the earth straps to the bodywork and the battery terminals If you can remove the stereo plugs seems a simple test if you suspect it.
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it’s $10 and a 40 min train ride to get it from the city on Monday long lunch time and you’re done
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While looking for more details on the stock manifold to see if there are any good things to do found these bits: Just porting the last section before the TVG section gives at least 5% flow gain at the valve opening on a flow bench. This could be more with the CNC head porting. There are place that port port the throttle body 2mm to 62mm and cut the rod in half to increase flow. I’m keen to cut most of the bar out and smooth the opening out. But the opening depends on the final intake pipe. No point making the mouth bigger than the pipe leading in. ive done this before on NA cars for good gains from 60mm to 63mm with half the bar cut away. Plus I messed up a long handled spoon to make it reach around the manifold bends to sand off the bumps.
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If it goes back to correct idle then would there be a vacuum leak? does it boost consistently once the 5 mins or so have past? If you stop and restart the car while it’s still hot do you get another 5 min wait? Could be faulty temp sensor in engine or gearbox. for other owners can you get full boost from dead cold?
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If the design isn’t unique or the name isn’t etched into it then chances are it’s generic chinese stuff. The writing won’t change with face lift or updates either so it may or may not work depending on the current stock design. China can also substitute parts to meet orders. So even if you got two it could be a different result between them. Heaps of Chinese stuff is built for one brand and if it fails quality control it gets sold as another that doesn’t mind a few blemishes and another that is ok with lower and lower quality until they are used for scrap. cores are a complexity and material thing so comes down to time which is cost the cheaper they are the worse they are. The weight is a reasonable give away of quality
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Fuel Injector Clinic FIC has 1200cc injectors that are all 1-2% matched sets. 450whp E85 650whp pump gas USD$540 They say idle and street driving is fine until you go past the 1650cc set which does. 580whp E85 780whp pump gas USD$840 Bonus they have spreadsheets for the stock ecu for reflashing. http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/wrx-stilate How they match sets
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What @BattleSnayke Motul. Get it from Toyota north shore or manakau. Cycletreads the bike shop in takapuna used to be cheapest. They had the 660 brake fluid ver very cheap too.
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My understanding was they brought in bulk then just matched them up into smaller sets. Some companies do flow others flow and dead time. Other thing is the factory plug is denso so that would save having an adaptor cable added to the mix. ID also use fancy alloy extension but others are plastic like the injector
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So other than figuring out all the extras like injectors belts and bolts cost add up fast. Still not sure what the difference between $1000 and $600 injectors are when the are both the same cc and Bosch or denso. I started to clean up the intake manifold and discovered there are large casting marks just around the last bend for #4. Not just normal seam castings but a 1-2mm raises 10mm diameter circle. Carbides and sanding pads don’t reach. #2 also has one but it not right on the start of the curve. Also it looks like since the #4 runner is so low and flat it gets to collect the most oil that gets into the intake. The manifold is also 4mm smaller diameter than the TVG’s so much more grinding to do. Just have to make sure it’s all lined up.
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Thanks for this... I’d seen those Athena ones and they looked good and about the only 2.0L ones. Ok so these are just JE Pro Seal gaskets and sizes are limited. http://www.jeproseal.com/sport_compact.html ebay only has the intake AVCS ones. Will have to try Subaru NZ to see if they are helpful. EFR looked nice but I’d block the BOV and run the GFB one still I think.
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Update Sounds like 13-14mm head studs are not worth the effort and haven’t been solving any gasket issues. So they are out and the 625 11mm ARP studs are about the best option so they should be on the list. Current plan is for: 79mm billet crank stroker to 2.13L latest JE pistons that are coated and gas ported Some rods to match Random other things: Seems the W motorsports block won’t even need closed decking for 600hp. So that is on the fence as the crank adds so much cost. Head gaskets need to be figured out as there are so newer options with copper “fire” rings that may help. Turbo is still a mystery option interested to hear what people think? Looks like it will have to be rotated or low mounted so it can be big enough to make power. Also if any one has a parts list for all the seals etc you need for a rebuild that would be awesome...
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