Individualities

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Individualities last won the day on November 23 2018

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About Individualities

  • Rank
    FlexFuel Fanatic

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    02 Legacy S401 STI
    02 Outback 2.5 auto (daily/DGAF about car)
  • Interests
    Anything outdoors!
  • Location
    Greater Auckland
  • Occupation
    Truckie
  1. Could've just got a new set of 6 inch speakers instead. But if your budget's tight, fair call on the wreckers.
  2. Semi-metallic pads will also be pretty harsh on the rotors, due to a higher metal content in them. For road cars, ceramic is the best. For your rears, those SCA ones will be fine. It's only the rear brakes after all. Fronts is where you want decent pads. $100 will get you a pretty decent set of front pads. The DB1678 Remsa Reds in my front Brembos are $120ish trade price. Will be going to RaceBrakes for my next set of rotors/pads
  3. Exactly. Wet sand paper too. That way the paper doesn't clog up as fast. The 3000 grit pad in the NuLens kit is basically like a fine scotch brite pad.
  4. Legitimately unable to make it - I'm not even in the country!
  5. If the pads have enough material on them, they won't need changing. IIRC they're DB1170 for the 4 pot Sumitomo-Subaru fronts (DB1678 for 4 pot Brembo fronts), and DB1156 for the 2 pot Sumitomo-Subaru/Brembo rear calipers? New pads will come with shims and all that I'd think. I'd recommend Red Remsa pads (they have the shims etc in box), plus they're good ceramic street pads. DO NOT get Repco RTQ pads - they're easily the worst pads on the market. You probably only need a decent set of street pads anyway. Clips to hold in the pads should already be with the caliper (minus what you're missing). I will add that with my car, which has Brembos front and rear, that I have a slight clunk from the brakes when taking off, which is just the pads slipping back and forth in the caliper - I personally don't worry about this, as I know it's a harmless noise. If the rotors are not at their minimum thickness, you can get them machined - only really need to do this for the fronts, as they do the majority of the braking. You can pad slap the rears if the rotors are in good nick. If the rotors are under the minimum thickness, they will need replacing.
  6. That's natural for BP though. I've found Mobil 98 to be the best 98 in my opinion. Haven't used Gull Force 10, due to the Ethanol and the tune. But once I do my engine build and tune, I'll probably run it on GF10 most of the time. Also be able to put Gull Force Pro in it
  7. Don't even touch 91 with a Turbo Subaru! 95 at least. I know once I go down the path of ST for my BE, I'll be doing the petrol tune with 95, and be doing FlexFuel too, so E85. @thewabbit1 did Silicone hoses on his wagon. Post about the hoses etcetera here. Not sure where to get them, I'm sure wabbit would know!
  8. They're on the rear glass. If you look closely, you see that there's no vertical line between two of them. The upper one is your radio aerial. Primary on the TT engines is passenger side. The little smol one. In my recent experiences with the EJ208(/6), I've found that the secondary fails. I've had my secondary done. Primary (VF33) is MINT. While you've got the intercooler off, replace the charge pipes from the turbos to intercooler with Silicone ones, rather than the concertina ones from factory. Negligible difference, but picks up a few HP (5 at most) - just smoothing out the air flow.
  9. I would say if the clutch has never been done, it would be dual mass. Single mass if you're gonna be doing it (unless it already has one). Doesn't need to replaced each clutch, and can be resurfaced. Plus also removes the chance of the 2 parts separating.
  10. I'll swap them out, as I take my car to the local Testing Station, which I've found to be strict, but fair at the same time. I'll swap em back once I have my WoF I'll NEVER take my car to VTNZ - I've found them to be pretty strict, and also not helped by a guy there not liking my car, and calling it a fake because of the chassis code being "BES" not "BE5" I'm gonna play it safe, as I don't know what will happen. And I'd rather my car pass a WoF cleanly, than fail for a simple thing like retrofitted LEDs. The warm-up time is something OSRAM and Philips both advertise. LEDs react basically instantly. Plus, LEDs are just, cool in my mind.
  11. That is incredibly vague. The LEDs I have bought are designed to diffuse light in a similar, or even better manner compared to a incandescent. Asked my old boss, from when I was mechanic. Turns out that retrofitted LEDs aren't allowed at all anymore. All I could find myself about them is that retrofitted LEDs don't meet the "performance" of manufacturer specified bulbs (incandescent). I think it's BS personally, as all the LEDs I have bought are either Osram or Philips branded, which diffuse light better than incandescent bulbs. Plus they're all like $50 a pair, and I have 6 pairs in my car. So for a WoF, I'll need to swap them all back to incandescent - get the WoF, and put all the LEDs back in. My old boss prefers them as they respond faster, and don't appear to have a warm up time (to the naked eye). Gonna tag @1randomkiwi here, as I know he's nuts on his LEDs too. Edit: interior retrofitted LEDs are OK. It's just the exterior ones.
  12. Asking out of clarification - What's the rules around running replacement LED bulbs in your stop/tail etcetera sockets? Basically all my external and interior bulbs are LED (not low/high beam and fog lights - they're all extra bright models though). I know it's now illegal to run HID/LED in sockets meant for halogen originally. Friend of mine said that LEDs now have to SAE approved? Just asking for clarification on my end, as I don't really want to have to do away with a few hundred dollars worth of LEDs , and the cool factor of them
  13. My only advice with this is go to Subaru, and get the genuine stuff. Gotta thank Subaru for doing frame-less windows...
  14. @harleyrabbison there is this Type R coupe in Auckland...
  15. Getting the suspension arm one's out can usually be done with sockets and a press/vice (press is always better). Subframe ones are usually total pricks to get out. In my experience I've burned the rubber out with a Oxy-eceteline torch, then cut the metal tubes out by putting a cut in them, and then they usually tap out. If worst comes to - take the subframe out (and arms), and give it to a shop for them to remove the bushings, and fit the new ones (unless you're going polyeurathane).