RaKid
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Everything posted by RaKid
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Seems to be self-tuned after reading that yes. I would like to get in touch if you don't mind. I'm busy doing a forged rebuild on mine and all of these parts will get swapped in so any info is good info.
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Wow I just read that entire thead. Guy loved the car man. So I'm I right in thinking the kinugawa turbo compressor was swapped to the scarles housing? Really appreciate the replies guys, much easier to understand what I've bought. Did max ever get around to dyno tuning the car?
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Hey guys, Massive long shot. I was at a private wrecker in Hamilton the other day just looking for some bits to touch up my v6 and the wrecker just got in this VERY nice v5 STI that was written off when something on the road pierced the bumper, fmic and smashed into the head, writing off the car. It became obvious to me that this was someones pride and joy as the car was immaculate and a tonne of money had been spent on it performance and handling wise, and keeping it very straight and clean. One thing lead to another and I bought all the good bits when I was only there for some wiper blades. It's a full tdo6 twinscroll conversion, link g4, complete xforce exhaust system, complete fuel system blah blah you get the picture. There were some invoices/receipts floating around that had PF automotive on it and the number plate. Called PF and they haven't heard of it which I was surprised about. Called dtech, nothing. I'm pretty keen to find the previous owner and have a chat about the setup as it's going into my gc8g. The number plate was BBM798 If anyone knows any history on this I would be pretty keen get in touch. TIA!
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Hi Julius ( @PBMS ) Is a power run a normal service you offer for $129? Are you able to offer any insights about the vehicle after a power run? Would like to know more about this service if it is.
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What was the clean worth? I'm tossing up between sending my seats away and buying a wet vac
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Is that with a link?
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Sorry - I was meant to update everyone. Fixed! When I put the IAC valve back on I've removed the top piece and had a fiddle and put it back on reverse by mistake. So I still had the same issue (not idling correctly) but it was slightly different. Presumably I was sending a negative voltage back to the ECU or something quirky like that. Removed the top piece and flipped it the correct way around and it's working perfectly. So all I really did to fix this issue was clean the IAC valve with wheel cleaner in Mum's sink and put it back. Thanks for everyone and anyone that had input.
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No worries! Just making sure I completely understand. So going back to what you said on page 1; fuel pump, link ecu, tune, will be about 3k all up but I'm guessing I'll have the most reliable fun doing it this way as opposed to a zillion boltons and no tune?
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Would the link onboard controller require a link ecu too? Once I've done stage 1 and 2 of your guide I'll look into an ECU. Am I right in thinking a link is about $2k and a tune $1k? Stage 1 of guide: Silicone intake pipe - done Turbo back exhaust - done Split fuel rail - Scheduled Fuel pump - shopping around Up pipe - found two extractor and up pipe kits on trademe (redline or xforce - the xforce ones look far superior) EBC - looking at second hand ones on trademe (and brand recommendations? I found a Greddy one for $250) Stage 2 of guide: Tuneable ECU - looking into costs Yellow injectors - done Turbo (vf23) - done FMIC - shopping around - redline to a kit for $395 but have no idea if this is any good Twisted turbo - not considered yet Aftermarket fuel reg - have been doing heaps of reading on this and want to run stock reg with split fuel rail Tuned headers - could do this with the up pipe replacement
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I'm not gunna lie - that doesn't really narrow it down a hell of a lot. A petrol motor needs air, fuel and an ignition source to start. I would start with confirming these three things are in good nick first.There is PLENTY to check.
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I have the same thing - v3 sti. You get used to driving it without crunching. I find it's only on the very quick shifts that I can feel it. If you give a split second longer between shifting from 2 to 3 then it's fine.
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It's only fair everyone gets an update. Last night I loosened the adjusting screws on top of the IAC to adjust the idle RPM a little lower, took vehicle for a drive and IAC is fine when car is cold. The second car reaches operation temp there are issues. Car will stall as the revs drop because it can't seem to 'activate' (for lack of a better term) the IAC Removed TMIC. Removed IAC. Black as anything. Cleaned out. To do: Fit back cleaned IAC, take car for test drive and check for previous symptoms. If gone, clear CEL, if not, fit second hand one I just bought. Any thoughts?
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Awesome write up. I'm considering doing a basic split fuel rail setup using the factory regulator and also upgrading the fuel pump as recommended. Would it be worth carrying out a rewire like you have here if I'm going to be modifying performance aspects of the car after installing a new fuel pump? Where did you find the wiring diagram for this?
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You mentioned boost solenoid and I've seen it come up a few times. Does a boost solenoid need to be wired to a EBC or aftermarket ECU to work or is it a stand alone device? I also read your article 'How to get power out of your WRX/STI' and one of the items on stage 1 is to invest in a EBC. Am I right in thinking an EBC includes a boost solenoid and it bypasses the factory boost solenoid and the driver sets and controls the boost? Alternatively you've mentioned the g4/iat/boost solenoid - do these all go hand in hand?
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Ta
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On another note - what would a d-tech tune cost me?
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Hey mate appreciate that a lot. I did read somewhere that it was air related so I appreciate your post. Will play with the ICV and see how I get on So far all the vacuum looks really good!
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2 long and 4 short is what I'm getting
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Cheers mate - appreciate your help and feedback
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OK this sounds good. I'm pretty keen to see if I can get a CEL code before I do anything but it's worth trying this too. I'm just trying to avoid taking it into a shop.
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Hmmmm
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Sounds great - appreciate that. I wander if it will still give me a code now that the engine check light is off?
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Awesome guys - appreciate the feedback.
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I haven't - is there an article here on how to do that?
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