dilly

If it has bridgestones that will be half the problem. I deal with this alot at work as the Bridgestones have very firm sidewalls. Go to a european tyre like Continental, Michelin, Pirelli or similer. This will defanatly help but at the end of the day it's a combination of suspention/wheel package as previously said.

Nice... pity it's at the wrong end of the country... Do you need the axles as well? or are the non LSD and LSD ones the same? Nah axles are the same, you just need the diff.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/diffs-axles/auction-399261314.htm This is what you need I believe 8)

yes I think that works (correct me if im wrong) With my BG 5 speed diff I can still spin it if someone holds the other side but my V7 STI rear LSD spins both at the same time. Also, The gen 1 lsd's are friggin cheap compared to everything else, id expect $100 or less (plus installing it)

My old 95 BG diff is open? same with the 94 BD diff in another wagon I have? Both 4.1 ratio. The gen 1 legacy lsd diffs have a sticker that says 'LSD DIFFERENTAL 4.11' most of the time which makes it easy to determine what it is .

Under the intercooler on the passenger side. Should be a sticker. As long as it's a manual, r160 4.1 ratio then yes.

If its manual it should be 4.1. The old Rs leggys have LSDs and are also 4.1. The best way find out what ratio it is, is to match up the gearbox numbers. Was going to do the same thing but Im running 6 speed stuff now.

Front mounted blender

+1 8)

So my cars stripped back and im putting my 6 speed stuff in but im wanting to change the diff bushes first as there soft nd saggy and it quite noticable when taking off. :-[ Aparently they are pressed in and out, is there any other way? ??? My cars on axle stands atm with the rear subframe in. I could pull the rear subframe out if it will make it easier. If someone could help it would be greatly appreciated ;D

Anything will rub if you go low enough. But if you do go up a size the 215/40-18 would be best.

I work at Tyre City in auckland and I have a 95 legacy that has heaps of suspension/wheel work and I have the exact same problem. I don't like 215/35-18 as theres nothing to them! The best option would be a 215/40-18. Its a higher profile so more sidewall but not wider so stays away from your guards, Ive seen legacys with 225/40-18 and you pretty much have to go standard hight or it rubs like a B**** . 225/35-18 would be good on a 18x8 or 8.5 but there difficult/expensive to get. (not that anything is cheap) The 17's i also run are 215/40-17 instead of the correct 215/45-17 which rubbed (my car is low) Standard Soft suspension makes it rub more so increasing the stiffness/body roll with swaybars and/or firmer suspension makes everything better. Hope this helps =)

I'm in need of an automatic for one of my BD5's and I was wondering if a 97 forester auto will work? Are all the plugs/wiring the same? Or does anyone have one that will work? Please =)

Do only 6 speed diffs have them?

Will it need a one way valve thing?

Here's a closer photo.

That would explain it :-\ [quote name='funkytown said: Pics? I may have an old diff plug for you. Afaik the plugs are all the same same. In akl next week too I will upload some close ups tonight. Heres mt rear end though img]http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/Dillz-rc-pics/photo.jpg[/img]

I just got my v7 diff but there is a hole in the top Is there ment to be a plug? (its not threaded) Cheers, Dilly.

maybe LEGAL but dangerous I would not do it Yes, very true. [quote name='JoKer said: url]http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,20067.0/topicseen.html[/url] clears! gettim Nice, Thanks.

Ive been hunting around on the net and it seems it may be legal (ish) to have no side indicators. Hopefully its legal or certable. After much thought I may remove trim and indicator but leave indent there. Clean and tidy. ill practise on my spare door

Great idea in theory. It has to be unnoticeable though which means hours and hours of work. Plus I will still need an indicator of some sort :-\ I have a spare door I may practice on + test durability. All handles will stay, function over looks. I wouldn't mind seeing someones car that has had this done.

Can I be a pain and ask why? does it have to do with the sh**y a$$ curve in the door or just the fact its so much to fill. Other wise I have 2 options; A- Would be to remove trim, fill holes from clips. And then i still need an indicator or; B-Just paint it silver and have tinted indicators (Most simple-boring way) I just want a clean mess free look without looking 'aftermarket' or 'ricer' I will defanatly get some pictures up of my build very soon...

So... I am looking int removing and shaving the trim down the side of the guard and doors. This will include getting rid of the factory indicator. Does any have any idea what I could put in its place. I would really like a small dome one. All ideas and help appreciated. Im super stuck on this one. Cheers, Dilly.

F@$k!!!! It's a Vf32 sorry dude... Wanna buy an even cheaper Vf 32 ;D

100? Its just sitting round and owes we f all. Ill double check it is a vf31 tonight. I think i saw the same turbo (similer condition) for $450 on Trade Me (He was dreaming...)