Kiwi_Fozze

if it has been fixed properly, it will be fine. IF.... it may be minor damage. it may have been a total write off. i think the only way you would be able to tell is to see the original import forms

nah, red and black. like sti ones, but not sti branded.

sold laptop. picking up subframe lock bolts tonight. pricing up camber bolts

just making sure... hahaha. ill do the split rail properly hahaha. eventually. and nope, im not cp93mm...

im looking at wrx reds. maybe.

im looking at some reds.... wana swap if i can get them? hahaha

get wrx seats re covered?

pick a part is your friend.... new rear seat, door cards and front seats... piece of cake!!!

air pressure from the wind as you drive along forces the blade harder onto your windscreen

avs has discount

so, in theory, i could detach my fuel lines, blank off the end of one of the rails, tee off the incoming line to each rail. hook the return line up to the standard regulator, so it looks like this? <img src=http://i1006.photobucket.com/albums/af181/bluefluffzzz/007-17.jpg?t=1304189085 width=100 height=100 /> make sure its bled out properly and go for gold?

disconnect battery, clean inside of coilpack sockets with a bit of skotchbrite or similar, replace leads?

check plug seating? ehh..... may as well do that after compression test aye

sounds about right to me

as far as im aware, the 16bit ecus will handle over 1000 flashes before you start getting into unknown stuff. 32 bit ftw, they will handle over 10,000... or so i understand.

speed setting? why does acc suck so much?

yeah im starting to think broken wires somewhere? or ecu giving up? bad tune?

+1

alarm tick. tints tick. want a better alarm tho. even though its a 5 star im still not happy with it. might have to go see avs onve my tax comes through

cheers guys

depends who you talk to... if you are patient you can diy with opensource.... just takes some brainpower...

purchased rear subframe lock bolts, pick up thursday evening. woohoo!!! kartboy bolts, half the price of all the quotes from various companies so far!!!

rev d - prone to detonation rev d - ecu is reflashable rev d - reflash with a little less timing = no more det

well done! i'd personally go for the middle one... open source tuning ftw!!! gentle molding of the tables should increase a bit of free power and use a bit less gas...

hey guys, what are you running? what would you recommend? and on that note, anyone selling theirs? hahaha cheers