cpt kernow

Looking back I spent $15000 on fuel last year, this hopefully 12 edit - - Undid the Snorkel-ectomy. Sounding like a big-bore primera wasn't my goal and soon wore thin nnnnnnnnnwnwnnwnwnnnnnnnnnnwBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA was kinda irritating. I guess it was the resonant frequency of the system, Tried extending the intake but just moved the note up the rev band and made it deeper. Back to sounding like a stock honda now. It annoyed me so much I was under my car in the rain at 7am this morning fitting it back

Not neccessarily, I mean more efficiency. The hunting around the car and checking for factory settings proved that I can make it more drive-able. Also Two tanks last week were 7.6l/100km and 7.8l, or to put it another way it gets 150km further on the same gas as the foz does. And when I do 2 1/2 tanks a week it soon adds up. Plus I can now run on 95. Ps the v-power from shell knocks about 40k's off a tank compared to caltex.

I'm sure a phonecall and creditcard would make that an easy task for Wingers

I'm ringing tomorrow. I'm at 83k and will need it done in a couple of months

I think your emails are on the right track. Just keep sending polite reminders every second day. The constructive feedback is agood plan. Just bullet point the issues you've had and wish him luck

odd as cod. Unless your engines stinking of gas and the air intakes by the windscreen are sucking in the fumes

Well ( as read in other thread) I checked and adjusted the TPS. When pulling away I'd have to depress the pedal about 5mm before the car had power and when lifting the foot off the pedal it would judder a bit. With the tps in the correct ballpark, the thing pulls away much better, almost no gas for lift off, and the torque is much better through the range. Drives alot more like twincam now. For example it's not that hard to hit 100 on the Northbound on-ramp of Oteha valley, where-as before I'd only get to 90ish. Much more drivable, Not powerful, but smooth. Got the foz back off the wife the other day and scared the crap outa myself lol,

re-adjusted this morning had a good day at work with a judder free car. Pulling away at lights was much better too. Didn't need to rev it before the gas kicked in.

Was pretty cool. Some of it narrow, some on steep hillsides, most of the bends have real good vis so you can take good lines. Even the sealed stuf was nice. The ONLY other soul I saw was a farmer on a quad putting out a cone to let drivers know about a slip. What with the drive to Port Waikato and the best cafe at the Nikau caves just before waikaretu, I reckon it'd make a great morning drive on the weekend. I had awesome bacon and eggs for brekkie

spent half an hour sitting by the side of the road trying to get a paperclip out of the seatbelt clip. All mcguyver styles with a multimeter and a pen as the only tools in the car

As it says. In the hunt to find the sluggishness in the 2002 NA legacy, i probed the TPS and found a voltage fully closed of 0.3v - which I think why lifting a foot off the gas is about as subtle as slamming a door - and reset to recommended of 0.45 to .55 (0.51v was my closest). Took for a test for 5 mins and when I slow down or blip the gas, the revs stay high for ages. like 3-4k. My guess is ecu hasn't learnt new setting. From what I can gather, I can't reset mine without scantool thingy. Anyone have any (hopefully informed) guesses how long till it learns? Don't wanna work tomorrow with everyone thinking I'm about to launch from every light. Cheers J

You got a mate who can get acces to a lathe? polyurethene is dirt cheap and would be nothing to turn some up?

Insert Tui add here I guess TomTom's never heard of Subaru. It only took 40 mins with photo stops. It's been mostly sealed now, about 15km of gravel left and in real good shape, was an easy 50-60k's all the way

That's really shitty, it's always the smallest things that fuck it up

cut n paste from the manual 1. ENGINE S078257A1001 NOTE: Malfunction of parts other than those listed is also possible. <Ref. to ME-87, Engine Trouble in General.> Symptom Problem parts 1. Engine stalls during idling. 1) Idle air control solenoid valve 2) Intake manifold pressure sensor 3) Intake air temperature sensor 4) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 5) Ignition parts (*1) 6) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 7) Crankshaft position sensor (*3) 8) Camshaft position sensor (*3) 9) Fuel injection parts (*4) 2. Rough idling 1) Idle air control solenoid valve 2) Intake manifold pressure sensor 3) Intake air temperature sensor 4) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 5) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 6) Ignition parts (*1) 7) Air intake system (*5) 8) Fuel injection parts (*4) 9) Throttle position sensor 10) Crankshaft position sensor (*3) 11) Camshaft position sensor (*3) 12) Oxygen sensor 13) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay 3. Engine does not return to idle. 1) Idle air control solenoid valve 2) Engine coolant temperature sensor 3) Accelerator cable (*6) 4) Throttle position sensor 5) Intake manifold pressure sensor 6) Intake air temperature sensor 7) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4. Poor acceleration 1) Intake manifold pressure sensor 2) Intake air temperature sensor 3) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4) Throttle position sensor 5) Fuel injection parts (*4) 6) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay 7) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 8) Crankshaft position sensor (*3) 9) Camshaft position sensor (*3) 10) A/C switch and A/C cut relay 11) Engine torque control signal circuit 12) Ignition parts (*1) 5. Engine stalls or engine sags or hesitates at acceleration. 1) Intake manifold pressure sensor 2) Intake air temperature sensor 3) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 5) Crankshaft position sensor (*3) 6) Camshaft position sensor (*3) 7) Purge control solenoid valve 8) Fuel injection parts (*4) 9) Throttle position sensor 10) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay EN-350 GENERAL DIAGNOSTIC TABLE Engine (Diagnostics) Symptom Problem parts 6. Surge 1) Intake manifold pressure sensor 2) Intake air temperature sensor 3) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 5) Crankshaft position sensor (*3) 6) Camshaft position sensor (*3) 7) Fuel injection parts (*4) 8) Throttle position sensor 9) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay 7. Spark knock 1) Intake manifold pressure sensor 2) Intake air temperature sensor 3) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4) Engine coolant temperature sensor 5) Knock sensor 6) Fuel injection parts (*4) 7) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay 8. After burning in exhaust system 1) Intake manifold pressure sensor 2) Intake air temperature sensor 3) Intake air temperature and pressure sensor 4) Engine coolant temperature sensor (*2) 5) Fuel injection parts (*4) 6) Fuel pump and fuel pump relay *1: Check ignition coil & ignitor assembly and spark plug. *2: Indicate the symptom occurring only in cold temperatures. *3: Ensure the secure installation. *4: Check fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. *5: Inspect air leak in air intake system. *6: Adjust accelerator cable.

crc's maf cleaner on the air flow meter can work. But really pissing in the wind without a code. Is the ' check engine' light on? Or flash intermittantly? And by surging under gentle acceleration, do you mean the initial part of the throttle say- lift off to slight pressure, where the car judders back and forth. Or do you mean further up the revs when you're moving and it hesitates and surges?

You should try driving up from arrowtown to the derelict village 10km up stream. Maybe wait till summer tho.

If only I could, would be so awesome, but it's a work car. If it were down to me I'd be driving a caged mini, rally specced, and dressed up in the company colours. But I've gotta wait a couple of years before I can swing that through the family business. But in the mean time, the legacy is the best 'office' Ive had yet.

if Someone could find me a mint BH 2002 turbo wagon with 80,000 on it for $7500 that gets over 600km on a tank then I'd snap it up. the service had gone a long way to making it move quicker, but the snorkelectomy makes it sound hoonish so's going back in on the weekend

http://www.zoomin.co.nz/map/nz/franklin/waikaretu/port+waikato-waikaretu+road/ the port waikato wakaretu rd was gravel last year, hopefully it hasn't been sealed

Just booking my work for this week, gonna be in port waikato at 9am weds, then halfway to raglan on gravel, the naike and tuakau. Going to be a good morning i think. From Warkworth all on the fuel card

beautiful!

At last some real theory. Back-pressure is a mis-nomer. You don't actually want any back pressure at all. It's other name is restriction. What people usually refer to is the inertial flow of gasses in the pipe. The idea is to have the gasses flowing along a pipe, that when the exhaust valve closes the gas continues to flow creating a really low pressure zone in the heads after the valve. Then when the valve next opens the exhaust can whip into the the pipe real quick and even suck some out the cylinder. If the pipe's too big then the gasses effectively just dissapate into fresh air. There's no inertial suction to create the low pressure zone. The opposite is true on the intakes. That's why some V8's have long tuned intakes for low revs, to gain inertial flow then the higher revs when it's irrelevant the butterfly whips into short mode. But bear inmind my actual theory knowledge falls over when it comes to some cars, as there's always someone who's done it before so you can learn from them and not bark up the wrong tree.

It's all one piece, on the back, the same surrounds house the magnet and weathershield

Ok armed with a budget of $50 and a free weekend, it was time to whip out the rattly oem's. For most this is nothing special, but some would like the how-to. First pull off the latch surrounds, Lift the top bit up and outwards, then the bottom unclps. then the window switchers, come out at the top first Then this little clip The tweeter cover pulls off After that just pull it out from the door. There's seven or so clips. Take it easy. THen you are exposed to the magnificence of the clarion 30w. I was confused about where the Cross over was hiding, there'd have to be one or the tweeters would break instantly. oops here it is! then time to make some surround to fit speakers that don't mount with mickey mouse ears then to mark the drillings fit to old speakers And all done. Time for the other 3 I got the components on sale from J-car and had a spare set of 6.5s for the rear. Watching trade me for a double din that plays mp3's for cheap and I'll be a happy man