Leighos

I buy it by the litre, $3.70 per litre. So at 2.5ml per litre of gas its quite a reasonably priced fuel additive. Yeah definitely try it for yourself though, there's a lot of bull**** on the internet lol.

Well it varies depending on driving style of course, but I average 50-75km per tank extra (urban/highway) using the acetone.

Add 2.5ml per (max) per litre of fuel, so for a 50l tank it would be 125ml. Make sure its pure acetone though, ie not your girlfriends nail polish remover! I get it from a local fibreglass supplier.

I have, for about a year and a half now, in both my RS Legacy (the most notable improvement) and a diesel Isuzu Mu with good results.

Sure...try this http://pesn.com/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/

Yep its a scam alright, a friend of mine had one. You do get a slight increase in economy with the 'placebo' effect...expecting a good return in economy so you drive a bit lighter on the right foot. I personally prefer to use acetone when I fill up my RS, at 2.5ml per litre it's reasonably cheap and not damaging on components. I get an extra 50-75km on urban cycle (with a bit of highway driving) - not much really I know but it all helps, especially with fuel prices rising shortly. There's plenty of info on google about using it if you're interested.

I did it with my BD5a, I routed boost pressure from the single turbo through the 'exhaust gas supply control valve' solenoid before entering the 'secondary side' of the differential pressure sensor. If you understand how the twin turbo system works it makes sense. I'm pretty sure the BH & BE have the same BBoD and diff pressure sensor (correct me if I'm wrong) so it should work the same. I still use the same ECU, just with a single turbo setup, and it runs fine with no CELs, has done for about two years!

Does anyone know if a brake master cylinder from a V7 WRX could be used in place of one in a BD/BG Legacy?

That's a good point. I read the VF24 & VF28 are nearly identical, just slightly different compressor? Anyway, the only reason I wanted to know is that this one I have has a damaged compressor wheel and I'll be on he hunt for another at some stage.

Looks like an 18, so must be a VF24 then. Thanks qwerty!

I have a spare turbo with the compressor housing polished so part numbers cannot be seen. As far as I can tell in might be a VF23 or VF24. There are casting marks in the turbine housing that read: H S6 XC Would anyone like to hazard a guess of what it might be?

Yea sorry I cant help, you have got further than I have! So would you say the BD5a info I've been using is accurate? Do you have an updated version?

Which pinouts are you guys using? I've been using this one for my BD5, which I'm really unsure about - but thats all I can find, short of buying a spare loom and testing it out for myself (my car's a daily driver so cant use that) http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu74/leighosative/ECUPinoutsBC5BG5a.jpg ...and these for the 6S ECU that I have http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu74/leighosative/v3and4-1.jpg http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu74/leighosative/v3and4-2.jpg http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu74/leighosative/v3and4-3.jpg http://i635.photobucket.com/albums/uu74/leighosative/v3and4-4.jpg I started to make my harness adaptor based on this information but have all but given up lately because I'm not sure about the accuracy of this info. I hope you guys have some success

That would be awesome if you could do that Wiretap, I'm still in the planning stages of my conversion and I'm still not quite convinced I have all the correct information.

Does anyone know if an AA200 Blue sticker AFM (found on early TT's) can be used in place of an AA160 Green sticker AFM on early (BC/BF) turbo Legacy's and WRX's?

Thanks for that boostin, hope thats right...otherwise I'm going to bugger my only 90mm AFM Hows it going with your conversion?

I've had my BD5 Legacy for around six years now and starting from cold has been fairly consistent, it winds over a few times before it fires - this I like because I feel its important that the engines builds a bit of oil pressure before its starts up from cold. Now for no apparent reason (no extra mods or part replacements) it now fires instantly from cold, by instantly I mean it hardly turns a revolution before it starts. Strangely enough, once the engine is warm its turns over and over many time before it fires. No fault codes present and all other engine functions appear normal. Anyone one here experienced anything similar? Chassis - BD5A Engine - EJ20H

I want to do the same with my gen 2 because I'm converting to 6S ECU and that uses wasted spark, you'd think someone on here would have done a similar conversion aye? I also need to identify the wires on the orange sticker AFM also, I posed that question a while back and no one could help either. I'll see if the local auto sparky has access to some decent wiring diagrams and I'll let you know if I find something useful.

You're a champion! Thanks Reuben, that's exactly what I was after.

Anyone?

Does anyone know the pin-out on the connector for one of these? I'm going to use one on my single turbo conversion but cant proceed any further until I can be sure what pin is what.

Yea it looks like its been withdrawn for some reason. Whats the link for the one on youtube?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-207593269.htm

Here's my '94 RS - Fairly ordinary looking with some subtle face-lift improvements like projector lamps, clear side indicators and colour matched lower lips, side skirts and door strips.

Yea if you have a BD/BG then they will fit, bit of a prick to wire up though, the later models have a completely different wiring harness to the headlights. They really should be called face-lift head lights, but I guess because of the projector lamp people refer to them as 'bug-eye'.