Jono24

The machining marks at the counterweight aren't to do with the centre thrust bearing. I had significant machining marks on most of the counterweights.

I had the same markings on the counter weights of my cdb when I stripped it. Not sure it is normal but the machine shop didn't even comment on it when I took it in for checking to rebuild.

I'd sell you my longblock if you were in chch! V7 engine will need a tune due to lower compression ratio? It looks like a rev d? Should get a tune anyway, might save the next motor (less knocking). TT longblocks should be cheap.

I'm going single, it was fun with a VF37, and i'm sure it'll be more fun with a twin scroll TD-05/06 hybrid

Hi Guys, Can anyone give me some pointers for a wheel alignment in chch. Here is a link to the car: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?33445-FS-2002-Legacy-B4-RSK-BE5-Ver-D-%28Wellington%29 I've had it a couple of months, put some newer RE002's on it and not much else. All money is going into the new engine to transplant. The previous owner did a bit of work on the suspension replacing a lot of parts, I'm concerned that if I go and give it to just anyone they will realign it to factory settings which may change how the car handles (very flat and I like it). A: Am I concerned about nothing B: Should I be going to someone in particular to give a wheel alignment C: Can anyone give me good advice on wheel alignment settings I can specify to the trade. I typically go to Tony's tyre service on Harewood road as it is close, I get a good service from them and being competitive on price. Cheers,

I have a rev D with an ECUtek flash and it still has a big VOD! (may be considered subjective here).

The one i got from George Henry was Toptul, they recomended it over the other similar priced ones, maybe they had better mark up? either way it is the one i got.

When i put 6.5" speakers in my last B4 i had to make my own speakers mounts out of MDF, pretty sure stock ones are 5.25".

Take it back, talk to a proper engineering toolshop, they don't need to be super expensive for your application.

You can get a reasonable 3/8" wrench from the likes of Trade tools or George Henry. George Henry had a 3/8 40-110Nm wrench for $130 which i bought, seems good but i'm no expert. Watch this video before you give up, it's not that hard.

I have checked all the pinouts across all three ecu's and found there is bugger all in it. I did this via excel spreadsheet so if anyone wants a look pm me. I'm curious if anyone wiser has any idea if the hardware is any different? Can the sti rom be loaded onto a legacy ecu and hence get avcs working? EDIT: it looks unlikely to work: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2540331 Peekay, the pins no longer used on the TT system are these: Relief valve control solenoid valve 2 signal B136 11 Relief valve control solenoid valve 1 signal B136 12 Exhaust valve control solenoid valve (negative pressure) signal B136 3 Exhaust valve control solenoid valve (positive pressure) signal B136 1 Intake air valve control solenoid valve signal B137 12 Exhaust valve control duty solenoid valve B137 11 The additional pins required for WRX are these: TGV position sensor RH Signal B84 23 Power Supply B135 9 GND B135 19 TGV position sensor LH Signal B84 13 Power Supply B135 9 GND B135 19 TGV RH (open) B84 4 TGV RH (close) B84 5 TGV LH (open) B84 11 TGV LH (close) B84 10 Fuel level sensor B135 25 Torque control 1 signal B134 19 Torque control 2 signal B134 18 Torque control cut signal B136 14 AT diagnosis input signal B135 20 AT load signal B135 28 I don't think any of the additional pins will apply to you unless you are swapping manifolds to use TGV's or have an auto box (which may not be compatible with the WRX ecu?). The fuel level sensor doesn't sound to important for running, you'll soon know if your fuel gauge doesn't work!

Is that sub 300kW at the wheels on a non-motorsport car that might see 1 or 2 trackdays a year? Trying to get a gauge as I'm in a similar boat and trying to figure out if this is something I need/should/can get away without.

That's exactly what I plan to do with my vf37 and rebuilt short block. V7 avcs heads, vf37 hot side with td05 guts, murch wheels and td06 comp housing. I'm getting excited posting about it

Google: Carberry ROM Then find someone who can tune it, maybe Gotasuby? No idea if it is equal/worse/better than a Link.

Found the rest of the bolts... laying in my garage all bagged up. The block bolts are all in and torqued up using the values from the Suabru Legacy BE/BH FSM. You can't get to all of them with a torque wrench so had to 'feel' a couple. Pistons in and baffle on the sump: Got a ring compressor from Butler Automart for $34, Supercheap wanted $45 for the same thing with a Stanley brand on it and Trade Tools have one for $23, but aren't open Sunday. You can hire them from Butler for $15 day though... I'll probably never use mine again but didn't see the value in the hire fee and then having to drive back to return it.

Cheers, I am stoked with how it has turned out. With all the machine work done and the tolerances set it wasn't to hard. I strongly recommend that video for anyone who is going in blind like I was, very helpful.

Some pics of the assembly: Crank and rods assembled, torqued to 45Nm (from BE/BH FSM), and with the Fuji logo's facing forward on the rods: Bearing shells in block: O rings in: Crank and rods dropped into block: Ready for gasket seal: Gasket seal done and second block half on: I watched the following video a few times to figure out exactly what i was doing, it was very helpful and showed me some of the finer points i would've completely missed otherwise. Something I didn't look to hard for was torque settings for the oil squirters. I was s*** scared I was gonna strip the threads on these, and set the torque wrench to 15Nm but chickened out before I got there. Next it tried 10Nm and then 7Nm, in the end I did them by feel due to fear of making a mess of them. I couldn't even torque up the block bolts as the perimeter block bolts got left behind at the machine shop, so gonna have to wait to finish this off.

All back from the shop, ready to bolt together.

You seen the Chch Cathedral lately?

Picked up the crank oil seals and block o rings from Armstrongs. I hadn't included the large crank seal so the total seals cost came to $68. Part numbers below for future reference.

Here's a look at the pistons I have, on the left are the original pistons out of the cdb, in the middle are v3/4 HF pistons, and on the right are my new Wossner pistons. One of the original pistons broke the ringland and ran the bigend on the number 3 cylinder. so the cost of my rebuilt shortblock (so far) has come to $1550 and includes: Complete shortblock: $50 V7+ Subaru Rods: $175 Wossner pistons (new): $395 Machine work, bearings, labour: $896 (ready to assemble, bearing tolerances set, rings gapped, block dipped and skimmed...) Oil seals between block halves: $35 (4 of from Armstrongs, and crank oil seal) Still to purchase: Oil pick up Oil pump Water pump I'll post some pics when I get the block back at the end of next week. The $896 doesn't include final assembly, this is something i wanted to do myself and it would add to the zero budget i have anyway.

So, I dropped off the block halves, pistons, rods and crank to the engine shop on hills road. Russell said the block was ok for the pistons, and I'll get away with a hone. Picking up the seals for between the block halves from Armstrong's tomorrow and the process begins. Russell also reckons I can reuse the old crank with a regrind. All good news so far.

Cheers hijacka, hills road is right by my work so will drop it in. I knew I was taking a risk with the pistons but also thought it can't be much different to reusing factory pistons. I'll get back to you on the crank.

So I got some (cheap and new) forged pistons which are 92mm, and I have some late model rods. My centre thrust crank has ground out the no.3 rod bearing surface when it died the first time so I'm pretty sure I need another crank. I've seen Mace engineering and HPE advertise they can do the machine work, anyone else you'd recommend or avoid? I think I'll be happy enough to stick with a centre thrust crank, I just need to take the block halves in to see if they are in good enough condition to get away with the 92mm pistons I have. Does anyone know where to get a seal kit for the short block rebuild cheaply, or the part numbers for partsouq? Cheers,

Double post.