PhatRS

Too much Christmas cheer already for my Funky haha. Wildturkey, you could get the entire trailing arm kits that include the adjustable bars too, then you dont have to worry bout getting bushes out, there are kits with urethane bushes and Redline do a solid pillow ball mounted one if you want something even firmer. Just a thought.

My car is probly not that good of a guinea pig for you just so you know, it bares very little resemblance to a legacy but Ill let you know anyway. It will only make a difference if you do the castor mod or space the mount other wise the only difference will be the weight of your wallet.

ooook so you are right Funky they arent cheap from Subaru $91.80 on discount for the pair but Im an impatient bstard tho so I bought them anyway (at least I know they arent worn out) and they are a billion dollars cheaper than the coil pack I need lol.

Out of interest Rick, how do you test the coils? Properly that is I may have a slightly dodgy one that created a miss during the tune at 6500rpm and would rather relace the faulty one than all 4 if I can help it. Back on topic, I had a very similar thing happen when my alternator died but it cut out a few times, bunny hopped like that and then stopped not long after.

found a pic of these cone things: part number is 20216FA000 if anyone wants them from Subaru (Ill get a price if they are open Monday, just incase funky cant get these cheep ones)

Yes I do mean try out the links haha.

Ooooo cheap is good.....you wiiiiilllll fiiiiiind the nummmmmber haha. ill try mine out and see how I get on, the car isnt roadworthy just yet anyway, if they snap stuff parked then I know Ill need spherical jointed ones haha.

Sweet, will have to hit Subaru up for the sleeves I guess, bet theres no STIs at pick a part . Im not a big fan of floppy suspension!, it just makes me laugh that one car manufacturer can make 2 control arms and 1 ball joint and they need a sleeve to fit one and not the other, were you not thinking the day you designed the alloy one???? Ninja edit: I cant see how the Z shaped end links are likely to shear off bolts any less than the dogbone ones (whiteline actually quotes them both excluding sti alloy arms) they will still sit at the same ghastly angle with only one side of the bolt supported!!!! I think Ill get the ones with spherical bearings in at least they are designed to angle and adjust.

Sweet, makes sence to me Ill use my std ball joints anyway just with my extenders so that should be fine. Ill have a look at your thread now, Im sure once I get into it Ill be fine anyway. What a PITA that you need the little cone things, I would have thought they should seat on their own. I have Cusco links which I was sure fit the STI too so Ill give them a try on the alloy arm too.

You can also space the mount out for even further caster but you will also be incresing the track with slightly so may run into rubbing issues tyre wise. I think the rule of thumb was a further 3mm spacer for GC and 10mm for GD but someone may correct me on that. It will depend on rims and tyre choice too. +1 [quote name='gotasuby said: they are the same weight, they are stiffer though/quote] +1 ive done this conversion for a wrx. Should work just fine on a BG. You will need new sway bar links as they are different alloy and steel. and you will need new mounting swivel for the ball joint into the hubs. Its a very easy swap, and a great time to do an ALK kit. Pm me as i may have one going cheap. So Funky are you saying the mount in the hub is different too? Did you end up using the ball jointed end links or replacement solid ones. Need to search out some of these cheap cones too

The main reason is so you can rotate the rear mounting bracket to get more caster, google the "free castor mod" Ive never heard of needing cone shaped spacers either, I though they were a direct replacement.

Front SHOULD fit, rear WRX one wont fit around the legacy wheel well as its deeper.

Nah the aircon belt is seperate.

No, just the air wont be as cold.

unless you like buying tyres every month

Ill probly notice it more due the wider track on my car but well see. if youve upgraded the tie rod end too you shouldnt notice any more bumpsteer of course cos everything has been moved the same amount. That flop could be due to increased castor, do they self centre a lot better from moderate lock?

Lets just say a lot better priced than anything else that fits my car No, Still working on the rest of the car so will have to put up with the increased bump steer for now, not that ive driven it in over a year.

I got them made up by Jason Leifting http://www.jldesign.co.nz/, he takes his time making them but they are very well made and gold coated so they wont degrade with daily driving.

Maybe another for good measure.

heres a pic of my adjusters that fit on the factory ball joints.

One for the engine bay shots as promised.

Yeah it looks a little squashed in that pic, it looks pretty normal in person. Best looked after standard paint in the world too. Steve must spend 90% of his spare time cleaning that thing haha.

Should have my turbo mounted by Wednesday so might just be able to scrape in an engine bay shot before the deadline too. Can assure you Ray that there are no Honda and not many Nissan parts in there

Ill try and grab some pics tonight, the ball joints are still in the car so you wont really see how they fit.

Mine are just an metal extender that goes over the factory ball joint. Im changing to the alloy arms too so I can do the free castor mod at the same time not that that will effect the roll center as such. My car would be be 70mm lower than standard probly and because of the increased track (spacers and wide wheels) that I have anything that is a little out in the suspension gets magnified quite a bit.