PhatRS

I have a compression tester you can use, pretty simple to do, even has instructions.

I had one made up in brass when i lost mine years ago, I dont use it now so happy to sell it for $20. Cost $30 at the time.

But equal length sounds better so its faster haha. *waits for flaming!!!!

AMEN to that, have been sold rubbish braid by accident and it was basically flimsy rubber hose with a sheath over it that fell off, no way it was ever going in fittings either. Enzed or Hydraulink may be able to do some for you too but any of the above places should be fine.

Mechanics had the car for a day, they cant find anything that is gonna fall off and kill me, have checked all the bolts as I did and lubricated the other bushes that I didnt do still makes a noise but Im at least not so concerned about it now I have a 2nd and 3rd opinion. May try unhooking the sway bar and see if that makes a difference although relubining those bushes didnt go a great deal. At least now have full V8 arms installed too so front matches the rear and has made the track yet wider so looking forward to having a go through some twisty roads

I have the one from the early legacy down the side of the boot, used the old rear window washer hose and reused the RSB pump with lengthed wiring, easy as, just takes a while to get water through cos I dont use it much

Ball joints are near new Whiteline (ones only seen maybe 1000k), Struts are brand new BCs and all is tight, no rubbing on K frame that I can see, look like arm gets real close to the chassis due to free caster mod but no rubbing marks. Noise comes from random areas now too, sometimes in the centre sometimes left sometimes right. Re greased swaybar bushes last night too but that hasnt done jack either. Hoping its a couple of bushes going as that will give me an excuse to get some good ones .

Im out in the Hutt now unfortunately, may get one of my local mates to lend an ear. Not something Im keen to be driving lots of Ks with. Funny that I did 2 trips up the hill in Kelson last night and no noise at all, this morning on the way to get the train for work started up again. Tightened the A arms to "f'ing tight" as per manual too, must be some other demons at work lol.

All back to square 1 Im afraid, maybe 2 of driving and I have noise again, cant imagine that I have shredded another a arm mount but will get under and have a nose tomorrow, failing that its off to a pro for a diagnosis and alignment as no matter what I set it to doesnt seem to stay close to right for long.

Seems to be sorted now thanks to spare parts man San, now have v8 arms in the front so with previous alignment that wasnt that flash the camber and toe in is now a joke but no clicking to speak of.......well not just backing in and out of the gge a few times anyway.

That sounds more like wheel bearing than mine, mine feels fine (well did) just makes a noise.

Well the K brace makes a profound difference but its not the cause, took it off and drove back and forward turning and could still hear a bit or binding just quieter. Put it back on and torqued up all the bolts, there is no way the K brace moves now but it still makes bindng noises turning and much louder than before (I bet the brace is like a big amplifier, sends all the sounds through the chassis). Now also makes a huge clunk going over even the small drain in front of my gge and when you compress the suspension with a jack you can hear the same clunk and even feel it in the back of the A arm. The 2 bolts that hold the right hand A arm mount on are quite loose although I cant feel any play in the mount feels like the thread in the alloy has stripped as they wont torque much more than hand tight without loosening off. not my pic but the ones at the top. Now on the look out either for some longer bolts of perhaps replacement alloy A arms, not gonna pee about with drilling them out and retapping.

Yeah you might be right then, sounds like where mine is coming from, never heard it till recently and had the K frame on for like 4 years. Mine fit bang on but I did end up getting one specifically for my model not bastardising a WRX one. Will have a looksee and play tonight see if it makes a diff. Will be nice if its as simple as that

Some people actually drive their cars tho, and even turn corners hahah.

Incidentally I do, I have tightened all the bolts for it but might loosen them right off then tighten it again. The noise doesnt quite match that if you know what I mean though, also think it might be heard braking and accelerating too but Ill check it out.

A weird noise has manifested itself around the front subframe area, sounds like a cllicking binding type noise almost like a spring popping back into a mount. I though it may have had something to do with the new suspesion I have put in but I cant replicate it by moving the shocks around by hand with the car in the air. Cant feel any play in wheel bearings and all bolts for mounts and braces have been tightned and retightened. It only happens at very low speeds and randomly at various steering angles. Have moved the steering wheel back and forth with the wheels in the air and it makes no noise at all so seems load related. Had thoughts of worn busings somewhere but would have thought they would make noise at higher speeds and braking/accelerating too. Steering rack seems ok too, has a bit of play when moving the wheel but Im sure its nothing out of the ordinary. Have tried to research it but its so hard to research a noise with not really any other symptoms although problems with axels or worn front/centre diffs do apear quite frequently. Any thoughts appreciated or useful ways to test various components. Will be going in for a diagnosis once I get paid if I cant figure it out in the next week or so as I dont want to do any major damage to it, had enough catastrophicnessss for a while

I have a no name generic one in mine and really like it, you can get the GFB one but will cost you $400 ish, mine was like $50 so it was a no brainer as it does the same thing but just isnt adjustable.

Might do, my Teins have 16 settings and you cant tell between say 8 and 9 but it makes a bit of difference, more to handling and balance than actual hard or softness, going from say 1 to 16. I was just meaning that the soft setting will either be 1 or 4 on yours but trial and error will tell you which you like most then fine tune with either of the 2 middle settings if you want to.

I would say 1 would be the softest but you could try setting them to 4 and seeing what happens. It will be one extreme of the other.

They just did one on a mates forester too for $350 ish, nice and tidy and has held up to towing 3/4 of the stuff from my house up a steep hill and 2 return trips to palmy towing some bohemouth holden thing.

ABS removal does require cert and you have to prove that there are no ABS components left, that is if anyone asks, as said above if you put some factory non-abs parts in it may not be picked up. Would pay to get it certed if racing so as to pass scruitineering IMHO.

Nope youll need 96 to early 98 ones to be a straight replacement, v3-4 wrx or sti ones will be pretty much the same without getting into the nitty gritty differences.

I think they use a custom cast for the twin scrolls to be honest, havent seen a TS 35r yet. They used to use bored out p18s for the SS but moved to a custom cast for them years ago to make them more efficient. P20 housings were tried on 3071-76 equivilents and only gained lag which I find interesting 35R can be had in internal gate too. Heres the SS 35r http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SUB-005&Category_Code=SUB For even bigger the GTX35r is out too http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SUB-022&Category_Code=SUB For ODB, take a geez at the HKS T62r...........

For those who care, you can get up to a Garrett GT35r turbo in bolt on. Probly crossing the boundaries or efficiency putting a turbo that big in a std fit exhaust housing but they are out there.

How much of that is AVCS and how much is twinscroll tho?