RA_Jay

not yet my cousin been doing a few things the last couple days trying to fix a couple of things before it can go to auto electritian so they can diagnose it properly. will keep you posted.

dont have a spare, working orange MAF. but hopefully when it gets tested tomorrow should find out if its faulty or not.

was going to pick up a mate on friday, when my car decided to pack a sad :'(. Has been running brilliantly for so long now and never experienced these symptoms before now . any help or ideas on how to fix would be appreciated. ;D when i was pulling up to an intersection, i put my foot on the clutch and the revs dropped really low, like it was going to stall out then bounced up to normal and repeated that until it evened out around 900rpm but when i went to take off again it was really hesitant, like it didnt want to go and was quite smoky. it did that for the next couple of traffic lights, and i managed to get to my mate (who knows more than me about subys). but as soon as i got there it stopped doing it. i got almost all the way home without it doing it again until going down my road it started again but because it was dark i just parked it up and left it until today. when i got in it today the whole morning it was fine. then around lunchtime it started shuddering (like jerking) under boost, so i thought it might be the intercooler piping. so pulled over and checked that. but that was all fine. i then organised to take it to my cousin so he could have a proper look at it but on the way there, going up a hill it was really shaking without the turbo even spooling properly. and half way up the hill it just cut out. but it started back up again and we made it up the hill and to his workshop. it now has a small mis-fire every 5 or so seconds at idle, and is still hesitant under boost. there has been no check engine light or codes come up. so far we have: - removed and cleaned all the spark plugs and re-gapped them. - tested the resistance of the coil pack and leads. - looked inside the MAF to check for burns and the solders not being broken. - checked to make sure there is sufficient fuel coming out of the pump/filter. - made sure all intercooler piping and vac lines are on properly the MAF and coils are going to an auto electrician to be tested to make sure they are not faulty tomorrow. Just curious to see if anybody has experienced these problems before or has any ideas on what else the problem could be? any help would be hugely appreciated. thanks in advanced.

the MAF in pic 2 looks like it would be sitting in the gaurd? in pic 1, whats that black thing to the left of the mushroom? also what do you use the car for? if its just street use i cant really see any need for the setup in pic 2. if you were doing track days though, wouldnt it just be easier to take headlight out if you can? (i have no idea if you can take out or not on v8's)

yeah id definatly put the MAF back into the engine bay. seen what kind of trouble can be caused by getting water into 1 . if i was you id take a section outta your stainless pipe, just enough for MAF and a rubber connector either side. and then just put the stainless steel piece you cut out where you MAF is in pic 2 to keep filter in same position. but it definatly does seem wierd how it works fine with hks? i would guess it would have something to do with the turbulence though.

got mine from repco, think its about $35 a can, but it looks sweet.

woah thats pretty pricey!

i went from a 23 to a 30 in mine. definalty felt the difference.

mite be wrong but i think its code 22. i know if the knock sensors stuffed, you get a code. would imagine you would get a code if you unplug it though. agree with subieboy, better just to replace it. codes are a pain in the ass, especially if your car starts going into limp mode

no worries, another good place for silicone joiners is Silverdale Radiators. not exactly sure where the shop is but they put all there stuff up on trademe, and i found its pretty reasonably priced.

correct me if im wrong, but Pipeline (near Scarles), off Rosebank road in Auckland. been there with my mates a couple of times, and they have have s*** loads of all that stuff.

The ecu earths aren't joined. Its just a bit of wire that has been wrapped around on of the earths and had a terminal added to it so it can be bolted to the chassis. At the moment it it looking like it is stopping the rest of the earth wire being burnt out, as it has been added basically right next to the loom clip. As shown in pictures.

Recently when I fixed a problem with the speed sensor in my car, I noticed that one of the ecu earths was burnt out and the previous owner had joined another earth wire onto the existing ecu earth wire (see pictures), which i am assuming he did to stop the top of the loom burning out. I have had a reoccurring problem of where my car wont start. I thought it was because my battery was just stuffed but I am starting to think that a) the short is draining my battery over night or b) the short is causing there to not be a big enough voltage drop across the starter. I have tested the resistance between the power wire to the fuse box and the chassis and I am getting about 1ohm of resistance. So I am definitely assuming a short on this line of the car around the ecu. I also took the previous owners horey attempt at a ground off and tested the voltage between it and the chassis and I got a 10V's. What I am wonder is were that ground wire leads to as stock and if anyone has had a similar problem? Any help would be appreciated. Cheers Pics:

Really?? cause the banjo bolt that comes with the vf30 has like a 5mm hole running all the way through it.. my old vf23 had only 1 hole that was like 1.5-2mm big. defiantly dont think it would have been big enough to provide adequate oil.

yup thats what ya need. nt sure about how good the quality will be tho haha.

its not the actual line you need to change, you just need the bolts, maybe try and post a picture of what came with your turbo and we will go from there.

i upgraded to this turbo on my 1996 sti RA, did have the 23 on there, deffinatly think the vf30 is an upgrade. but yea 1989 rs got it, you deffinatly need the oil feeds off the vf30, the oil feed for the vf30 is HUGE compared to 22,23,24 etc haha let us know how you go.

haha goes mint, when its running properly haha. but they all go pretty hard.

just thought id post up a few pictures of our cars. rawyatt - black rs ra RA_Jay - white wrx sti ra 1989rs - legacy rs

hey people. just a quick question, when you take the brown cap off the idle control valve should the metal cylinder have a spring attached to it so when you spin it it springs back into place? ive been told it should but im not sure? hoping that this could be the cause of my problems. ive got a 96 wrx sti RA just encase there's different types of icv's? any help appreciated! cheers

Technically. When we first put it there it was a good ground. The bolt had rusted on the surface stopping the current flowing into the chassis.

afm is fine, yes can crank over by hand. the starter motor will engage but wont turn

we removed starter motor and tested. worked ok. so put it back in and bypassed wires by connecting it straight to a battery. lights are ok and all electrics work fine. really confused. even put another starter motor and battery in

it happened, managed to get it started and drive it home. started a few times in the garage and it sounded really bad, left it for ten minutes and then it wouldn't start

yep three quarters of a tank. its something that wont let the motor turn over