X

yep its a trick to do when u wrap your extractors also. it prevent itchiness ( wont prevent STD) and also can stretch more

the trick to is to soak it some water first, so the glass dont float around wont get onto your hands then to your nuts or your GF's bra...

it look like crap LOL it taste like chicken and smells like fish [quote name='JoKer said: its an insulator not a conductor best answer thanks

dont know? i can only guess that the heat soak will be cooler but takes longer to cool down... but i rather have cooler air then time for it cool down after i turn the car off... water can half full or half empty... only way to find out is to get a lazer temp meter thingy to check or a temp sensor... i just need a OBD2 plug to test this as my V8STI manifold has got a air intake temp sensor, where the ver7sti dont have apart from the Spec C

thats a good point too... but it also keep heat out... that area gets very very hot... best to make up some heat shields i reckon? im sure the heat wrap reduced heats, it does keep in but it wont heat as much without it? colder the air the more power

ive also done this mod to my Type R, as long as its a R180 it should be ok.. you will noticed that the stone guard plate is bigger in the GDB compare to the GC8... my firts mod was doing the Brembo and i had to removed the stone guard from my GC8 (rear) cause the rotor was rubbing onto it the front axle/halfshaft one the GDB is a lot larger but its got the same length Tony is the only person i know thats done this mod..V9 STI is hard to get...

this is my engine bay... its a gc8 piping but could be the same... see if you can scooby or 1CE to post his photos Sean used 3" silicon hose to rotate his to best location i hacked up my AFM to delete airbox... it works but this is only my temp MAF pipe

i was told to try to keep as closes to where the factory AFM used to be you could unless you are going to tune your car to suit the new airflow?

those are good articles thanks for sharing glad ive done a split fuelrail setup

it looks good and stops better and can handle the heat more, apart from that if you planing to hard out doing tracks i think its not worth it... better to sell it and make some money if you got it.. the only downside on it is finding a nice set of rim without using spacers

has the fuel pump been replaced recently?

oh yeah you also will need the studs from the GC rear diff that bolts up the subframe as the GD ones are shorter

ive done it to my V4 type R, you will also need the wheels also, that can clear the brembos... everything bolts up... u will need to take the DCCD fuse off also as it will be annoying flashing all the time

yeah its kinda scarey sometime driving semi's on the road, i get those all the time

http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/83028863?b_start=0#743981359

thanks for the correction...

its actually not a sensor, its a actuator

you probably had the AC hehe

if its broken from the manifold, just block the hose off... should be ok

impressive i was 2kW off we were bidding on what you will be getting i said 250kw LOL

you forget step 7-12 add beers

add more beers LOL

write up: tighten harmonic pully. wash hands. have a beer

how is that going to measure det?

i got a ver7 sti one bro... its not hard to convert it... i can give you wiring diagram