les666

I would sort the knock sensor issue first as the ecu is probably retarding the timing all over the place. I recently replaced mine and my legacy is now boosting better than it ever has before.

It lowers the car a little from stock. On mine with 17's, there is a 20mm gap between the rear guard and tire and up front about a 35mm gap between tire and guard or 350mm from centre of rim to guard up front and 337mm from rim centre to guard in the rear. Also the front brake brackets on the v7 use a bolt to hold the brakelines to the strut.

Mine has the v7 red kyb's in and no need for camber bolts in the rear or spacers on the top hats. It is quite a firm ride though...

V7 suspension is a straight fit. No need to change rear top hats.

Drove to Christchurch, picked up some new monsoons for the legacy, popped into pick a part and grabbed some clips and spotlights. I think I'm gonna have to go back next time I'm in chch as the girlfriend was nagging me to hurry up and I saw a few other bits I might need soon. Got back to timaru and slapped the monsoons on. Tomorrows jobs will be swap out the steering rack for one that doesn't leak and switch over spotlights.

The inlet to the turbo will be quite hard to remove as it will be semi fused by heat. Just go around the whole inlet trying to work it loose. You can fold it back over on itself a little and then should be able to lift it up and bend it towards the throttle body to access the manifold bolt.

Replaced knock sensor in the legacy, old one was pretty shagged. I have to say using a bungee cord to hold the heater hose out of the way was an awesome move! Also changed the castor rod bushes in the girlfriends commodore.

I found when taking mine off that to get the primary inlet off the turbo you can get to it easier if you take out the window washer bottle. Pop it off and bend it towards the throttle body and you have easy access to the manifold bolt under it. As Koom says everything pretty much stays attached to the manifold. You will also need to remove the power steering pump to make things easier as well.

Not sure but I think the v7 spring diameter is different. Plus the rear struts on a bh are different as they are multi link

Dude, that sucks! I'm kinda glad now that I stopped bidding!

94 Legacy. Owned it for 3 1/2 years and its at 198000 k's.

Maybe these could be added as well... Inside the BBOD by Rosssub Secondary Turbo Replacement by Rosssub Suspension Bush Upgrade by Rosssub TT TMIC pipe upgrade revision 3 by Rosssub BE/BH replacement inlet hose for TT? by Rosssub Secondary Turbo Removal/Replacement by Rosssub BH Primary upgrade - sorta kinda how-to by Marky V7 STi cooler to BH/BE - Sort of how-to by Marky B4 Vacuum diagram The "Hose 10" Mod - BE/BH by Marky

Got bored so did a wee search... Turbo Legacy homepage Written By a past member CEL related: Check Engine Light CEL How To Fault codes and Reset procedure CEL code 31, EJ20G TPS Throttle Position Sensor (EJ20G only) CEL code 42, Idle switch (EJ20G only) Chassis related: Earthing Mod Some Model Code Info Driveline related: CV joint replacement Removing gearbox from engine 4 pot brake conversion Sloppy / Floppy shifters - DIY Guide inc'd by Swindog Center diff gone in your BH? heres a VERY cheap option by gazzy2000 ECU related: ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) pinouts BC/BF ECU's 4 plug TT Legacy to 3 plug WRX Ecu Conversion Engine related: Replacing primary on TT BG5 turbos on twin turbo Keltic's DIY Air Filter, Oil and Oil Filter Change Single Turbo Conversion Tips when replacing coils 20TT turbo lagg (VOD) discussion 1 Changing a Fuel Pump Head Gasket info Intakes Fuel Lines Alternator and Power Steering Belt Twin turbo Engine Diagram How to install a BOV in Subaru B4 How to install a BOV in Subaru TT How to: Rocker Cover Gasket Replacement (Fixes leaks onto exhaust manifold) cambelt 99 B4 RSK How to byDrDarkMatterRecommended performance upgrades for BH/BE Idiots guide to converting your legacy to parallel by Marky Gadgets / In Car Entertainment/Interior: Programming Keyless Entry DIN head unit into 2006 Legacy? Zero Sports Sequential Controller DIY Help getting behind stereo 2000 Blitzen Upgrading the headunit in your BE/BH (Macintosh amp'd system) Upgrading the headunit in your BE/BH (Non-Macintosh amp'd system) BE/BH factory satnav and climate replacement BG5 heater core replacement... (LHD) Gen 3 Cup Holders by the Handbrake by jaseandjess Exterior Gen II/III body kit links

On the way out of Milford Sound last week...

Yeah Armstrong in timmas has it. Whenever I have been in to order stuff from them they have had it all on display on the counter.

Replaced my dead fuel pump with a nice new deatschwerks dw200.

Ordered a new fuel pump as mine died yesterday.

Yeah boost levels from what I have read on uklegacy shouldn't change. http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/125791-primary-boost-solonoid-relocation/

Looks like this It should be under or around about by your iacv

It must be the difference between ej20h's and ej20R's. Odd that I couldn't find any vac diagrams with that configuration. Did you see my earlier post. Looks like the unknown line is meant to go to the purge control solenoid.

It could be the line to the charcoal canister? I'm guessing yours is a BG5C? As Marky said, someone here will have the same model and let you know where it goes. EDIT: Purge Control Solenoid.

Does this help?

Also maybe check that all your vacuum hoses are around the right way. Didn't you also swap solenoids in the BBoD? Maybe check to make sure all of the vacuum hoses are seated properly. How did you replace the solenoid? Did you solder or crimp? Maybe grab a multi-meter and check continuity. There is also a check valve or one way valve in line 12 I think. Might pay to check that too. I know when I cleaned out some lines I got it around the wrong way and cel came on under boost but can't remember checking for codes afterwards.

Yes the wiring colours match up and Yeah I did the pig tail trick first to test it out. You can pop open the original plug open to see how the wires are routed so you don't and to guess and blow fuses like I did first time. I ended up cutting the original plug off and soldered and used heat shrink once I decided that I was gonna keep them that way.

It was pretty easy and definitely worth it! Besides looking better they also seem to work better, that is, you can actually see a lot more at night. Did you get the connectors with the lights? As it's a heap easier to wire up as the coloured wires all match up and you just tee off a wire from the projector to the chassis. The park lights you just cut the positive (red wire) and connect it to the new lights. Sorry not a great photo. Not a lot of light this morning or after work tonight. Have you read these? http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=5941 http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/91437-how-to-fit-gtb-projector-headlights-to-a-early-gt/