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Update....managed to make it play up again, ECU is not losing power. Still the rev counter dropping to zero, and wont restart until the revs drop back below 3k rpm. Plugs are fine, battery terminals tight, no CEL codes, also can get it to do it at less than full boost so not boost cut. Cam/crank sensor possibly ? seeing as it loses tacho signal, and also theres a click from under the dash when it fires back to life which im thinking is the fuel pump relay, IIRC ECU only activates fuel pump when theres an rpm signal(cam/crank sensors). Might have to try borrow a couple of those sensors and give it a go at some stage.

Cheers for that advice mate, exaclty what I was after. Mentioning cam/crank angle sensor makes sense, especially as the tacho feed drops out too(which ECU obviously gets from either of those sensors' signals)! Went out yesterday with multimeter but typical, damn thing ran perfect, gave it a good hard drive for over half an hour and not a hiccup. Anyway once the problem repeats itself I can see whether its the main ECU power dropping out and go from there. Will update if I get any progress ! cheers

One big factor is the plugs are near new, regapped to 0.6mm to stop blowing out of spark. Im no mechanic, but in my experience I havent had spark plug issues cause the car to completely cut out(as in no spark, rev gauge stops dead, all the twin turbo system solenoids drop out, pretty much as if the key is turned off yet lights/acc etc stil going fine) for up to 10 secs at a a time, misfires yes, but this is definately not a misfire. Even a coil dying I dont see causing the issues im having. Appreciate your help though, the point of the post was hopefully someone may have had the same problem before and could let me know how they went about repairing it. My parents had a 94 RS TT back in the day and it had an almost identical issue to this, however they never got round to fixing it as they traded it in, so thought maybe it may be common-ish problem with this gen legacy. Also no CEL, and no backyard mods. Have cleaned and resoldered MAF, checked plugs, wired in new relay in place of main relay, will do some more investigating tomorow.

Sorry mate, just that I can already ascertain its not plugs. Should be asking has anyone had this issue before and how did you sort it ?? Will check the ecu power with my meter tomorow to confirm it looses power. Also forgot to mention that it happens in 4th and 5th as well as third, at full boost usually too so wondering if its some form of boost cut. Other wise the car runs mint.

Pretty sure not the plugs. When the engine "cuts out" it stays out until the revs drop back down - up to 10 secs at times. I find pushing the clutch in lets it fire back up into idle. Pretty sure whatever is happening the ECU is losing power completely, but only the ECU, which is what made me think main relay. Replaced it however and no luck.

Having a problem with my BD5 TT Legacy cutting out at random. It appears to be losing power to the ecu for a a few seconds, drop it to 3rd to pass for example and itll get through VOD, then just as it reaches fully secondary boost it cuts out violently, the tacho drops to 0, and when it kicks back in you can here what im sure is the main relay click back in. Coincidently it seems to happen at higher boost not sure if its got anything to do with the problem. Have replaced main relay and no luck. Almost seems like its happening right where the boost cut should come in, and seems worse when the air temp is cooler. Anyone else had issues like this on a legacy BG/BD ? Thinking possibly AFM but thought it would simply throw a CEL not completely kill power to the ECU?

On my fourth subaru and no major issues. Only my RSB got rebuilt due to minor piston slap, didnt fail at all and could of gone for few years more IMO without a rebuild. Went brilliant after rebuild and single turbo conversion never missed a beat. Had 2 Sti's a V4 and V8 and both no issues, serviced plenty and strictly 98 fuel, warmed up properly, etc IMO is the key to having a reliable Suby. And modifying them properly with a proper dyno tune to iron out detonation. Of course if the prev owner abused it then its bound to fail sooner than later.

I like it, bout time they got a sedan version of the STI, loving the widebody look, much better than evo x imo. Now all they need is a coupe version again FTW.

Have owned a V4 Type R before the version 8 i have now, mint cars for sure Positives : Look cooler/more unique than the 4 door Lighter and tighter chassis RWD balance/ feel is awesome, easily tightened to grippy 4WD by dialling DCCD up Awesome performance(mine was factory and was impressed by its performance, faster than my current lightly modded V8 Sti) Close ratio gears awesome for acceleration Great factory brake setup Stil heaps of room for back seat passengers All round dam fun to drive Great value for money these days(plenty of tidy ones round 10-12k mark now) Unlimited upgradeability IMO, being a typical subaru lego car, when you get bored swap all the V7 and up drivetrain in(6speed and EJ207 engine) for even more fun. Negatives: Nuisance for passengers to get in and out is the only negative I had. Definately a worthwhile Suby to buy, just try and get a near stock one that hasnt been butchered/messed round with

Agree with treecrusher, speed isnt what kills its people that cant drive at speed. Drink drivers, inexperienced drivers, people falling asleep at the wheel, driving too fast for the conditions and/or the cars capabilty IMO are the more contributing factors to accidents not speed alone. Although speeding amongst lots of traffic, in 50k areas, local neighbourhood, etc is stupid for sure.

Haha - thats my favourite bit! Like said earlier it's all a matter of taste? Funny though how were all Subaru enthusiast's and how a single shape change can divide a "nation" Lol. :-* some wud say that the "wide" guards on the v7-10 is a thing of beauty (compared to all other models that didnt have it from the factory and have wishful thinking owners lol) IMO it looks like the GDB guard lines and the doors and handle style seem to be picked out of the forester chassis, they have the same box guards too and same style door handles etc.

I never liked V7s either but theyve grown on me a little too, seen some pretty staunch ones around lately, white ones with nice JDM looking rims are the go i reckon. Also as has been said theyre very good bang for buck, usually 5k or more less than a V8. Have to say though i much rather the V8,9 shape, V10 are nice too.

On my third subaru now, and none of them have run bearings. Oil changed at 5000ks at the most and all of them been run on 98 octane, both of which probly help alot in not destroying the bottom end.

Maybe try taking it to the likes of speed source or similar tuning shop who does reflash tunes, get them to chuck it on the dyno and see what the cars doing? Theyll be able to log everything boost,afr's,sensor voltages, the works.

My version 8 STi seems to be bad on fuel, about 450ks to a tank on the open road at best(thats along windy hilly roads mind you), stil seems poor, and thats even after ive set it to run 15.3:1 AFR at cruise, and road tuned all the fuel maps. Compared to my V4 Type R i had that did a best 620ks to 55l open road, stoked with that.

Over filled my old GC8 gearbox, blew the excess out the breather and made a mess haha. But cant see anything bad will come out of overfilling.

Some warranty/mech insurance companies allow basic modifications, my AA one has exhaust and filter mods approved and declared on it. Have claimed once on mechanical insurance a few years ago on my RSB, that was with driveright, the engine had bad piston slap and they repaired that with no hassles - new V7 STI shortblock. So cant say ive had any bad experience with warranty companies yet.

Haha 6 hours what the hell : Im no mechanic and last time it took me half an hour or so, and thats with coil on plug too, yours would be just plug leads so easier stil.

Ive tuned mine to 11.3ish to 1, richening up to under 11 at redline. 12.5 seems really lean with a tmic, youd have to pull a bit of timing under boost to stave of detonation I would of thought. I would rather tune it richer with a lil bit more timing, but different tuners have different methods i suppose.

Done 2 cambelts now with the swing arm type tensioner, and both were brand new and did exactly the same as you describe. No issues at al. Its an auto tensioner so i assume itll adjust itself for tension ???

Have used those triangle cheap ass tyres in the past on my old RSB and they were honestly pathetic IMO, the rear felt like it was swaying all the time and the wet weather grip was poor at best. Wouldnt recommend any cheapo tyres unless its on daily driver round the city. And look around too, i got a pair of RE01-R potenzas for my sti at 180 for both fitted, second hand, bout 30% worn, which i thought was a mean score

Hey pappu, the V8 only have intake AVCS too(think v11 is the only ones with int and exh?) - but the map had more cam advance than the v7's, from comparing the two.

An IHI VF23 or VF30 would suit nicely for a bit more power, seeing as you have a WRX itll only have a small TD04 from factory. Either of those turbos will be capable of 200wkw, and stil maintain response and driveabilty. Chuck a 2.5in siamese downpipe on at the same time. Dont get a link plug in, the factory ECU can be reflashed to suit your mods. Factory 440cc blue injectors should get 200wkw but couldnt hurt to go up to sti pink 565cc injectors. Also recommend doin split fuel rails with upgraded walbro pump.

235 atw is impressive for just basic bolt ons and tune, more than enough for a street driven car. The GDB Imprezas will become very popular in the next few years IMO with how easy it is to get power out of them.

Yea man will let you know once i get in touch with him.