SAS

Good news to CHCH based members. SAS has just bought a Dynapack hub dyno. it will take a couple of weeks to get setup but after that i'm hoping to help guys out that want to tune their car. I was going to suggest putting their car on the dyno and teaching/show how to tune and what affects what. There will be more information over the coming days/weeks. And to ibpenguin, it could be knock but would definitely get it looked at. Dtech and PBMS i have heard good things about and not too far of a drive

Hey mate. I did the 6 speed conversion on that car. If you have a problem with the way I put that car together how about you hit me up about it rather than me having to find out about it through other people? That ****s me off. Frankly, I'm not the idiot mate you are. The handbrake was working absolutely fine when it left here and same can be said for everything else. I'm sorry you had to replace consumables due to very standard WEAR AND TEAR. Why do you think that gearbox was put in there? Because he was hard on gear, he actually admitted it and hence why he broke his last gearbox! As for the pads, what am I meant to do? Put brand new **** all through it and charge him through the ass hole? They were of warrantable standard at the time and he was happy with the conversion and car when it left. The wiring wasn't done because I'm not an auto sparky and Jason who is, wasn't being paid for any of his time therefore wasn't obligated to do anything about it. If you believe the quality of my work is of sub-par standard then you ask any of the many people on this forum who come to me if my work is any good. Either they are all wrong or you are. You bought a tidy, complete, V5 WRX with full 6 speed conversion and brembos for 4k, if that's something to complain about then do us all a favour and shut the **** up.

Yeah i might pull it apart tonight and check everything is right, if all else fails will give this a go. As said above used all genuine parts Don\'t put washers behind the bolts, if you\'re resorting to that you\'re doing something wrong. Here\'s a couple tips that I make use of and I never have a rocker cover leak. Clean the absolute f**k out of the mating surface that the gasket touches on the head. Most the time the reason they leak is because they haven\'t been cleaned properly. Use brake clean not degreaser or petrol as brake clean doesn\'t leave a residue. Next tip is use three bond gasket maker, amazing stuff. I apply it to the corners of the cam caps as shown except on the head not the gasket and I also put a little bit right the way around the head where the gasket touches. Probably unnecessary but then again, mine never leak.

100%

Hey man, After reading your other posts on here, you\'re obviously putting a gtb box and diff in your BC. I notice in that picture you have stub axles in the diff, stub axles are an early design that were removed in favour of putting the splines on the CVs as i\'m sure you are aware. It\'s been a few years so don\'t quote me but if my memory serves me correct, you cannot put the stub axles from an early diff into a later one as the splines are different, which I think is what you have done?? Maybe this is what is causing the problems you are having with it. Just a thought.

Hey mate, That diff you have there is a viscous LSD. See the hole just under the crown wheel there, see how it is half "blanked off" and half spider gears? The "blanked off" bit is the LSD unit. I can see how people may be confused with a plated or mechanical LSD but that is definitely a viscous LSD.

Havn't checked prices recetly but i could do it for around 1000-1200

Early twin turbo autos are 4.111 ratio, same as the manuals. Other compatable diffs would be found in the early 89-93 legacys, howver not all of them, mainly the facelift ones as they changed from a cup and pin design to cv's that slotted into the diff with a sirclip like the early twin turbos. That and v1 or v2 wrx diffs are the same.

Crank and cam sensors are the same all the way from 89 to 2000 and even beyond. Knock sensor is too except the later ones had a different plug but you can just un-pin it and clip it into the other type if you want to. Water temp is the same from 89 to 97 (although placed in different locations), there are 2 separate sensors 1 for ecu and 1 for the gauge, the later model then conbined the 2 into just the 1 sensor (a 3 wire sensor). Most or maybe all other sensors are different. AFM definately different, ICV different, TPS different, MAP sensor different. O2 sensor stayes the same but the plug changed.

Yea im keen too as long as they not too expensive

Yea I found that site. I downloaded what I needed off there and compared it to the service manual I had and some pins were the same but most were different. That site is for the US market I believe so mayb theyre different over there? So yea im still lookin damn it. Thanks for the link tho! apperently the US and the JAP and the AUS spec have different wiring in few places so yea its not transferable on the different models Ah rite cheers man that confirms what im seeing.

Yea I found that site. I downloaded what I needed off there and compared it to the service manual I had and some pins were the same but most were different. That site is for the US market I believe so mayb theyre different over there? So yea im still lookin damn it. Thanks for the link tho!

Can anyone please tell me where I can find a pinout diagram for a V7 Sti ecu? I have been through all the pdf files in the workshop manuals section and found a lot on wiring diagrams etc, but I simply want 1 page of the pinouts for the ecu by itself. I have them for other wrx and legacy models so 1 must exist for the V7. Its driving me nuts tryna find 1 lol.

Iv painted quite a few with the standard old VHT crinkle paint. Had the manifold acid dipped first so was nice and clean (mainly cos cudnt b bothered cleaning it myself lol), went over it with wax and grease remover prior to painting to b safe, then applied 5 coats of the wrinkle paint before heating and done. One was done 2 years ago and hasnt flaked yet