Marky

I\'ve cut the top half of mine out altogether, still has them at the front and back of the wheel arch so you can\'t see anything missing as such unless you jack it up and look, just put an extra bit of the plasticy wire shield stuff on the one cable which runs through there

Oh don't get me wrong - I agree with you. Same as how some will tune just solely to a certain AFR number, or "I want 20psi boost" come hell or high water just cause that's where the gauge reads to Sometimes it works, but when it doesn't it's not a cheap mistake to fix

I've had a few mates tune just s-afc's and the like to a pretty ragged edge just using the knock count the factory ECU puts out (mitsi's using datalogger software), got them on dyno with proper gear to check up on later and they were pretty much bang on, safe enough and no room to improve. That said, also had a couple who have ventilated blocks in the same fashion so win some lose some I guess haha

Killjoys Ping is powah

http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos-12/09-07-12page-Scion-FRS-Subaru-BRZ-400-turbo-kit-runs-11-3-127-4mph.htm That'd un-girly it a bit

If I remember right the -11 at the end of the plug code refers to a 1.1mm gap in the plug There's normally a .7 or .8mm ish alternative of some sort for turbo models off the shelf. Or you can just regap them yourself with a feeler gauge, if you've got one. I've always been told it's not advised for iridiums as well (more risk of damaging the point of the electrode I think?) . It's literally just bending the tip of the plug (the bendy over bit) a bit closer to the point of the electrode. Just buy copper ones, seriously the iridium is a waste of cash especially once you find how simple a plug change is

It's a 1-2 hour job absolute tops Remove airbox Remove Battery Remove washer bottle undo 4 coils remove 4 spark plugs repeat in reverse ;D Iridium will not give you any more power but it will last a lot longer before needing replacement - it's like those eco-bulbs for the house, cost 4 times as much, last 4 times as long

Un-siezed my jammed adjustable strut ring thing - woooo - almost a full can of anti-siezed bolt stuff and a lot of bashing with a hammer later - and re-greased swaybar mounts while I was under there & getting dirty anyway. Swaybar regrease fixed 90% of the squeaking noises the car had - saw someone mention it on here a few weeks back so mucho gracias to whoever it was Now to find the other 10%...

I'm sure they look at me sideways when a young-ish (ok almost 30) guy comes in wearing a hoody etc and starts hunting around the irrigation section Should ask them where they keep the heat lamps and extraction fans for lawls pro tip: the adjustable drip feed things make for a fantastic sub $1 boost controller in a pinch haha

That dead horse has been flogged harder than... I dunno, an overly flogged thing Kinda off topic but I did a heap of temp watching with my mitsi's and found even with just a stock evo 4-5-6 cooler it'd be lucky to ever get over maybe 35-40deg, and that'd be fanging it right after sitting in traffic or staging lanes on a stinking hot day. Going to a big bar & plate job changed nothing in terms of temperature drop but did enhance BOV flutter hahaha Seeing what I get in traffic with a top mount is just mental in comparison, with some airflow they work very well but the heat soak at low speeds is unreal, which I guess is the real issue - with some air over them on the dyno / track / road they're great but it's the daily commuting etc where things get ugly. I find it interesting for sure - the internet is horrific for getting a heap of folks who haven't tried something bad-mouthing that something, nice to see someone taking a methodical approach to things Would be hard case to see the other side of the story as well - take some vids of how quick spool up is at a given speed / rpm so you can see if there's any genuine change in response on the road

.20c in the gardening section of hardware shop - the garden irrigation section - might find a bolt suitable but they don't normally hold the fine pitch car parts use

That's the one

That's the ones I believe there is supposed to be a restrictor between the pressure outlet off the Turbo and the t junction. Don't quote me on that tho!

What car? Boost cut can come from in some cars hitting a certain psi amount - like 18psi bam no more boosty for you - if this isnt the case it comes from going over a certain voltage / frequency through AFM at a given rpm I would be looking at trying a different AFM just to cross that off the list, and checking for leaks under boost - might be something split and only creeping open with some psi behind it (or leaky BOV can cause same symptom if its vented to atmo). Boost control solenoid has no bearing on it - all it does is open and close but doesn't actually read boost.

I've been meaning to do this for months Apologies to the residents of redcliffs for the backfires on the way back down ;D Next challenge:

I've always wondered about the purpose of the hose which tees off the BOV hose - does it feed straight back into the intake on yours?

Got turbo --> intercooler hoses replaced with silicon, $200 to get some from aus or UK or less than a 1/4 of that to just find some that fitted locally haha Totally worth the trouble, the primary turbo plastic factory one I swear necks down to even smaller diameter than the turbo outlet

2 hours of swearing and skinned knuckles later got them on. Job gets a bit difficult when you run out of daylight and are using a cellphone flashlight hahaha Primary side - 1.75" 45 deg bend fits perfect, bit too long on IC pipe side but does no harm being too long, just needs to be tidied up one day. Secondary - 1.75" 90 degree, had to trim slightly on turbo side and remove the mount to get the thing in there and done up, could probably keep the mount but I have no patience. Verdict is it was absolutely worth the trouble, car feels much "free-er" I guess - comes on boost easier - like it makes more boost with less throttle, and the car genuinely did feel a bit quicker on my quick fang last night. Quite noticably louder induction noise on boost too, feeling pretty bogan now. Best tell I suppose was the text from wifey this morning when she was halfway to work - asking what I'd done to the car and have I turned up the boost? So not just a placebo effect from me noticing gains that weren't there I guess.

Hey - were you having probs with a BOV not working right or something with your B4?

Got me some pipes from local bargain bin (read as old supplier who had spares which look approx correct), think they're 2 inch dia but turbo outlet looks much smaller. Will find out soon enough. Lets see if they fit, will try to get a before & after vid when I do them After having a look at the factory ones when trying to jam verniers in there to measure things up, SURELY there's got to be some reasonable restriction in there. Considering the flow difference that autospeed site shows on wrx coolers with and without the stock feed pipe (vs smooth silicon sti ones) I'd expect these to be much the same. Not expecting a world of difference but can't go backwards at least

I swear there's two different measurements for clutch force or something - I had a 2400lb (ish?) one in a mitsi once upon a time and it was pretty fricken solid (both in use and under the foot), survived a good few hundred 300hp+ launches That said, used twin plates rated near double that and they felt light as a feather So nevermind to OP sorry can't help but had to comment

Take his option ^^ turn down the boost, it's only gonna get worse coming into summer in nelson! This may (no, will) require removing factory boost control but thats nothing permanent

Got a mate over there at the moment buying every part under the sun for people, and sending them back here as "gifts", working out pretty cheap in some cases as I think it avoids GST etc? Slightly dodge really but he's picking up some disgustingly cheap bits of ebay that people otherwise wouldn't be able to get sent here

My current one made similar boost when I got it, some of the wastegate hoses had been replaced and it was missing a restrictor pill - meant not as much % of air being bled off by the factory boost control solenoid - chalked it up to that. Didn't bother looking into it, just binned the lot and ran a boost tap anyway. My previous one was the same and ended up being the solenoid being gunked up - ran some brakleen (or similar) through it to free it up and things went back to normal. At least it's too low not too high! (the hoses this concerns run in behind the battery, the solenoid itself is tucked riiiight up inside the guard out of sight behind the guard liner) It worked for me anyway

Changed plugs - went over all the joiners etc - put boost gauge back in and it's gained 2psi (yay, sort of) - measured up IC pipes to get silicon replacements - fixed exhaust leak @ diff flange - raised front end up 20mm or so to get it level front to back - flattened the battery in the process so had to go buy jumper leads haha Oh and broke something? Climate control is not turning on at all and cig lighter no go - any ideas? Can't find a dead fuse.