Marky

Two questions but both boil down to the same thing (ish), and yes I've been searching. What from a BG fits a BH? I'm looking at lowering springs - few & far between for later model but heaps of BG ones for bugger all, I know at least no WRX stuff works but can I use a set of king/whatever springs from an earlier wagon in a B4 shape one? If nothing else the strut braces swap just fine haha Second thing is exhausts - RAGE have the same part numbers for BG and BH downpipes, but different Y pipes - and mid pipes look the same to me but guess maybe they aren't interchangeable? Same as above, can get a full BG set of pipes for dirt cheap so would make sense

Since you have it from a yard, you do have the right of return (to a degree) - if it's not behaving as it should, the problem does have to be sorted. I had similar issues with a GTB from indy cars, seemed mint on test drive but within a week was playing up, to be fair they weren't to know either, AFM sh@t itself and a couple other things I think. They did sort it all in the end. To be fair it's the risk they take being a second hand car dealer. And while it may be annoying if they pick a mechanic, least it'll get sorted, if not you can start getting vocal - since they're LMVD they have standards they need to stick to in regards to this kind of thing.

Chucked a boost gauge on it, had found a rip in w/g hose, fixed that, thought it felt flat - 8 or 9psi on both pri and secondary will do that, was just running w/g pressure. Doubling it should knock a couple seconds off the daily commute CUDDAS - love the look the brakes & wheels gives the car

I always use normal cut & polish as well, works awesome. Just the generic stuff from repco / warehouse.

Relief valve for $80 and a helper spring if you need it still Best example I can give of them working is the TT VR4's - they run like 6psi stock and with a bleed valve (or pretty much anything) won't hold boost, you'll get say 16psi till 4500 then gradually fall to 10 "ish", even an AVC-R or something won't control it properly. Using a relief valve I had my last one hold 18psi rock steady from 2800 to 8000, on tiny td025's (like 60% the size of a td04). Reason internal gate creeps is while there is always pressure on the diapragm and also on the flapper, if both are soft it'll creep downwards. Relief valve won't let pressure through unless it's above the psi target you want, like closed loop boost control effectively.

Went for a run today and this popped into my head, I had a similar problem years ago. It was on a VR4 I had, basically it started cutting almost at random, like sometimes perfect other times just as it hit full boost, sometimes halfway throug the revs, no real pattern to it Replaced plugs, coils, fuel filter, fuel pump, no intake leaks, different AFM, ECU, really scratching my head, gapping plugs close improved it for a while but not for long. Felt exactly like a fuel/boost cut - ended up being the ignition module / igniter pack whatever its called, basically spark on all 4 was getting that weak it was just blowing out at random. It was like a headbutt the steering wheel kind of cut, not like a stutter or something, it'd just cut outright then kick back in, so I fully thought it was fuel cut (mitsi's don't have a boost psi cut, just if you overload the AFM at given revs they cut fuel) I'm still thinking it's all spark related, or maybe intake mani gasket leaking once things get hot only? It really sounds like a fuel cut (like outflowing what the AFM / ECU thinks you should have at given RPM) something the ECU is doing on purpose not a fault, or just a problem with ignition. Just me though - it might give ya another thing to think about?

Hi So I've used a relief valve in the past for boost control, and they work like the absolute bee knees / ducks guts / pick your colloquiasm. Effectively it's like a one way valve which pops open at given PSI, no signal gets to WG until target boost then if it drops below target, WG closes... repeat as desired, end up with faster spool even at factory boost level. Problem is the ones I use look pretty industrial so was wondering if anyone knows of anyone selling the "Hallman" manual boost controllers in NZ? They are basically ^^ that but look pretty

Stupid car Went to see Stu at Stubaru, he just said "afm" when I pulled up and I'm all "but surely it could be these other things the interwebs told me... I GOOGLED DAMMIT" No, replace AFM, car runs sweet. My 02 was borked also, and the TPS was slightly out of adjustment, but neither had an effect on idle, however the car at least now has a clean bill of health? Painful part was after whipping AFM out of it's housing and giving a blow out, it seemed to run OK - this is AFTER I forked out for a brand new replacement @ armstrongs. No matter, will leave old one in garage for when this one nukes itself too. My understanding with the 02 is it is ignored when car is cold, and on heavy throttle, but is used at idle / cruise. If you listen to a car idling you'll hear it ever so slightly changing in pitch up & down as it swings rich:lean:rich.

That was my thought too - that makes like a chuffing "chchchchc" sort of noise as it comes on boost - and goes away once the revs get up? If it was something physically whipping around boost would have nothing to do with it - something in the driveline will be speed related and a belt flicking around will be rev related, nothing to do with what boost its making

Pulled half the motor to bits trying to sort dodgy idle Swore at it and taking it to stubaru today instead hahaha Poking around under it to get to 02 sensor found I think it has a/market swaybars? They look quite thick, and they're like a bright metallic blue, brighter than the body is. Nothing else under the car is painted, and the thing rides daaamn stiff compared to my last BH, I put it down to big wheels but makes more sense now.

Sort of - all the guys who started it have drifted away, and to be fair the guy who runs the website keeps forgetting to renew it hahaha. The brakes from memory was literally just making a dog-bone to space them out a bit and bolting them on! I haven't tried unplugging the AFM while idling - good idea, will try later on. The 02 there is absolutely no difference with it plugged in or not, I am thinking it's likely the fault but I think I just need to get it diagnosed properly before I go spending $$ replacing things - any other car this would be pretty straightforward to sort, but these subies just seem so fragile with sensors etc it's easy to chase your tail.

Not entirely sure the 02 I got even works haha, might have bought a dud as it's made the barest hint of a difference. Taking it to a subaru guy down here tomorrow to chuck diagnostic / logger thingy on it to see what it says, I'm tearing my hair out trying to figure it out and don't have time to mix and match parts stabbing in the dark. Figure he'll have a spare AFM to test with as well, like you said it might still have been the fault all along. Did find a split in the WG hose while I had everything apart, explains why it felt so healthy! And yeah that's me, traded diamonds for stars - wife won't accept any more mongrel VR4's in the driveway!

You can do it for free in about 30 mins, just locking it in the situation it has about 4000rpm now. I've done it, resulted in a pretty laggy setup - not much happening at all under 3k, but it ramps up to full boost pretty quick after about 3500 "ish". Good fun if you're in the habit of fanging it off the lights or just thrashing it in general, feels very similar to say a TD06 on a 2L motor. You lose the rumble completely, and the low end sucks. On the other hand once you have some RPM up its much more responsive, drop back to pass and you don't have to wait for it to think "should I use one or two..." then start switching things, it just goes like a normal car. The ECU is supposed to pack a sad about it - you can fool it to a degree that everything is going ok, but it's not ideal. I've heard of people using a WRX ECU to avoid this - makes sense. I never ran into it but only went parallel for a fortnight, wife hated the sound of it and lack of down low boost. Don't pay anyone to do it, and as for whether it's worth it or not is personal opinion I guess - it costs nothing to try it, I'll write up how to do it later on (forgotten half of the pipe numbers so will go look at car). Swapping back can be done on the side of the road.

Appears all of the above might be right TPS is adjusted right AFM clean as a whistle New IACV and has had seafoam through the intake Had intercooler etc off, found a couple small issues but nothing terminal or at least nothing which would explain the idle 02 sensor appears to be stuck on 0.1V, heater works - the other wire doesn't Trying a second hand one today - see what happens

Ok - no fault codes come up Cold start it is perfectly smooth, only as it warms up idle starts to deteriorate. The only thing I'm now stuck with, is there's a solenoid tucked between the intake and the alternator, has a hose in from intake mani, and it goes out to ??? underneath the manifold. That had cracked, I have blanked off both hoses in the meantime till I find another one (of whatever it is?), what does it do, where does that hose go and could it be related to this poor idle?

Ok... multimeter to see if o2 voltage is swinging back & forth at idle to diagnose then? Will check fault codes tomorrow, it's driving me mental as the car is perfect otherwise - got the feeling the guy I bought it off barely used it, and its just bad luck I've given it a decent run which has nuked something in the meantime.

Got a BH the other day, seems 100% good, but after a while noticed when driving the revs seem to "hang" for a second when you let off, it's like a half a second delay between my foot and the motor. Same if changing gear or just backing off to coast/engine brake. It has since developed a bad idle - ok ish when cold but deteriorates to stall/1500/stall/1500, and if you breathe on the pedal it jumps to about 2k. Stopping at the lights you're fine for about 5 seconds as it stabilises, then it begins to oscillate and get to the point of stalling again, before catching and revving up again. The cable itself is fine, moves freely and isn't over or under tightened. I have replaced the IACV outright, and notice a definate difference in idle with it unplugged - so I can assume that's out of the equation. Driving around the car is 100% perfect, drives smooth, boosts normally etc. Will run through some AFM cleaner anyway but it just seems too severe for it to be that? I can't for the life of me find anything online to help but maybe someone here knows what to check for? Can I just fiddle with it till it seems good or is there a certain resistance or voltage I should set it to when closed/open? Any help is very mucho appreciated

Neither am I - wife loves them though. If nothing else since they're 18 X 7.5's they should be pi$$ easy to swap for something different later down the track. Fricken heavy though.

Dont spend a cent, take it back to the dealer, thats why you buy from a dealer not private.

Picked this up last night Sh@ itself already but such is life, nothing major Needs tints added, about 2 inches of ride height removed, and 4 pots to fill in the front wheels a bit (and not in red!) Trying to get a rev D bumper (or anything!) is like finding hens teeth though

Thanks internet, you rule I believe this may be the problem I am of the impression it was held together by carbon buildup

This might sound stupid, but if you have a compressor its a 2 minute check - try blocking off the intake, and pressurising the inlet (just into a vacuum line, anywhere) - if you hear air hissing I'd bet money your problem lies there. Even a bike pump can do it if you've got arms like the hulk. Sure it's a boost cut as well, sometimes a real severe ignition fault (spark being blown out) will feel just like a boost cut, closing gaps on the plugs right up is free and if things improve it points you in that direction? Just throwing those 2 out there since you've tried replacing everything already

Alright, the internets tells me icv, icv, icv, maybe afm but icv anyway - so should I be able to move it by hand? And still not 100% on what this solenoid is for, can't find anything online saying what it is and can't see where the hose from it goes to (the hose I have blanked off...)

Jebus, I get that sort of mileage at Ruapuna! Haha If you were a real bogan type, flooring it everywhere then sure that's believeable, but for a normal person driving at baby-in-back speeds that's pretty severe. For arguments sake my last tank got me 480km 90% around town and topped up 53L, that was the BG including some snownuts and wife has a lead foot, BH gets similar so far. THAT SAID - I had an airtrek turbo for a while and that got similar mileage. Had a big exhaust, reflash and was running upwards of 20psi, and we'd be absolutely stoked to hit 400km on a tank of gas. Had a real high stall converter in it so you just had to breathe on the pedal to get it on boost, I'd still have it but for the running cost, so many LOLs.

Hi, So bought a car last night, 99 GTB, drove perfecto. Today, run some errands and it starts to idle a bit dodge now & then at the lights - nothing major - tonight has gotten to the point of it will surge to about 1500, drop to almost stall, and repeat. I'm thinking intake leak or ISC fault but can't prove either, and no I haven't pulled codes yet. I have had the idle thingymawhatsit off (the one above the throttle body) - it was pretty gunked up, brakekleen fixed that, BUT how much should I be able to move it by hand - does it rotate, move in/out or what? I can't remember how it works but doesn't seem right I can't move it by hand? The OTHER thing I found was when checking for leaks I had the belt cover thing off - tucked between the intake pipe and the alternator is a little solenoid - the plastic nipples on that had both snapped. I blanked off the hose to and from it - but what does this solenoid do, and is it the cause of the problem maybe as well? Does not have a BOV, has factory airbox etc. Any help would be much appreciated