Marky

Nothing getting pushed open under boost - guessing you checked already but a joiner letting air out "sometimes" would give a problem like this, AFM related cut rather than any PSI number?

Upgraded my white BG to a blue BH Pleasantly suprised to find it has 18's not the 17's I thought it did (we'll see how they like potholechurch) and a bunch of other random goodies. Same km's on both cars but jesus there's a difference between them, I know it's "in theory" damn near the same car but wow they feel different.

Won a trademe auction for a front strut brace for a whole dollar ow I think I'll give him a fiver just cause I almost feel a bit guilty about it

Wiretap sounds like you got short changed or drive like Dom Toretto My BH's (B4 shape wagon) economy was pretty much a case of if we got less than 450km to a tank, wifey figured I'd been fanging it. Had a 3" Y-pipe back exhaust and 16-18psi boost. My current older one is similar, has gotten better mileage with bigger exhaust and runs 16psi on primary and secondary. As everyone has said - usual stuff, just pay particular attention to the TT system working properly, try and start it from cold if you can - I'm always a little wary of any test drive where the owner has warmed it up "for me" - dodgy AFM / etc problems or knocky engines always show signs when cold which may be masked when warm. Comes down to how much you fix yourself as well - knock sensor / afm problems while common aren't hard fixes or pricey. You could pick up the factory standard car with meticulous servicing which got fanged from cold by the owners son every weekend, or you could get the boganed up one with big wheels and loud muffler which has been babied everywhere as wifeys daily driver. Can never really tell for 100% sure.

Probably made sense once upon a time before cheap s-afc's or reflashes came along, if you're turboing your honda or n/a whatever it would have been a cheap way to get a bunch of fuel dumped in on boost to try and avoid it blowing up Least that's the logic I imagine was used Strikes me as about as intelligent as chucking a one-way valve on the fpr vacuum hose as a cheap way to lean off something which is too rich on boost

For an old legacy wagon? Good luck. Might be worth it if it's mint and you find an enthusiast, otherwise joe bloggs will buy the BH up the road for $5k instead, or the wrx wagons going for 3-4k Worst case, if it has more than $1500 in parts value, go with it, worst case is you end up with some epic grass hacking luls for a few months then flick it to recoup your money Just time, garage space and your wifes patience may all run a bit thin if not revinned - I've parted a car before and you get to a point of going "oh stuff this someone take the lot to get rid of it"

Ooh pick me I'm 28, started working in the Army, trained there as an electronics/instrument technician for 5 years - worked in retail, a courier, some mechanic work, more retail, and currently working for a large telco while on the waiting list to get some better work stories. I missed being in uniform I guess. Have owned at last count 31 cars, mostly turbo mitsis but there's been 4 subys in there, all legacies, car knowledge stops at the real technical stuff - like to think I know what I know and aware of what I don't, too poor to pay mechanics so had to learn how to do my own bits & pieces. To be honest have found this forum to be one of the best I've been a part of / stalker on, any dropkick advice gets weeded out pretty quickly (or subtly abused until people get the point), has def helped convince me these scoobydoo things aren't the unreliable timebombs I always thought them to be, just a little bit erm... misunderstood haha Outside of work - I run, lots, drag racing priveliges were removed when we bought a legacy :'(

Found this in garage, was previously used for a mitsi AFM to intake pipe adaptor Take that overpriced ZS intake pipe haha 3" at one end, 4" at the other, wouldn't work with the factory airbox Next on the board miss ford is to get a pipe on the end of the filter to somewhere inside that hole on the left Total results so far = absolutely sweet f-all, but it does look pretty and blue haha. Louder intake noise when on secondary though which alone is totally worth it au

I might give it a whirl one weekend anyway, there is room under the cooler to get a fan mounted (like a little 7" one or less if I can find it), most of the feedback I've seen looks promising (found a heap of 4wd forum types who swear by it and got good, measured results) - cause front mount kits are so easy to throw on a suby most never bother. Have found they were quite popular on the old GT4 celicas too? The big thing is I don't want to make more power, I just want to try and tame the heat soak a bit - the cooler itself works just fine at speed and the surface area a little fan will cover surely can't be that much when compared to the whole core. Joker - energy a fan uses, no way it'll draw enough power to be noticed, hell the car has an aircon fan sitting there now I'd just use if it weren't too big for the job. I see the point if you were trying to lower temps with say using the air con, or a super beefy fan to try and cool more - if I could I'd just have it on a speed related relay or something to flick off at speed. This is purely just to help manage the one (?) downside to the top mount.

Yes, I searched, here and gooooogle Has anyone here tried running a fan on a top mount cooler? I found an old thermocouple thingy in the garage the other week so got curious - measured temps @ afm, intercooler inlet and also outlet. The results were somewhat disturbing! Car is a normal GTB, boost is about 15psi on both turbros, standard intercooler. I've got an enclosed pod filter, grabs air direct from inner guard - temps after the AFM hovered around ambient and never really budged, which makes complete sense. Even sitting at the lights it has a constant supply of air through it so never really heat soaks I guess. Pre intercooler got really nasty - it didn't update that fast but saw it hit upwards of 80 degrees (the device read only to 80 ) on a few occasions, always when just fanging round on primary with a lot of start/stop driving. POST intercooler was the real dodgy bit - if I was doing over 50kph, then it worked suprisingly well, given a cold night it'd be down to 20-30 degrees depending on heat soak before hand - if i was over 80kph it would work well and not really budge. The ugly bit was the heat soak, sitting at the lights for anything more than 15-20 seconds would see temps start to climb, and climb - would be getting up to 60 degrees by the time I started moving. Dropped right back down to ambient if I drove like a normal person to 50kph within about 20 sec, but if I nailed it off the lights then wooo you could cook an egg on the thing. Skyrocketed instantly and only started to drop over 60-70k's. Now reason I ask about a fan is that this car is 95% driven around town. Gets the odd open road trip but most of its life is tootling round chch. I've looked online a fair bit and can't find many people who have tried it on a scoobydoo, but a lot of 4x4 guys seem to reckon it's a damn good idea. I can't imagine a wee 7 inch fan will block things that much at speed, and it's purely to try and curb that heat soak at the lights or when parked. Getting in the car after I'd gone into the shops or something it would be a good 60 or 70 degrees. I like the idea of a water sprayer - however that's just trying to help things after they've gotten ugly - just thoughts on if this would help before you're even driving quick?

Took wagoon for WOF, passed first time (shouldn't have), WOF man pointed out something rattling inside the exhaust (concerning) Whipped exhaust off, after much angle grinding found a pipe sleeve (like from the double skin inside the cat or something?) physically jammed across the one resonator it had, meaning my big exhaust was effectively about 1-1.5 inch haha. Always thought it sounded a bit more muffled than most. Solution being remove resonator, replace with straight pipe. I now have more volume and twice the pops & bangs, and it goes mucho better (go figure)

Can buy it pump from a lot of places which service jet boats / moto cross / speedway racers etc - caltex waimak is a good culprit haha Ruapuna used to sell it pump if you were racing there on the day - I'd chuck a half tank in, reset the ECU and crank the boost yo - don't think it ever achieved much other than peace of mind when racing on 30 deg days, and killing about 5 VR4 02 sensors. Could run a bit more safely but as everyones said - the long term effects outweighed the .2 I probably gained down the 1/4! If you tune for it you can get more power (like running 98 vs 91), if you don't tune for it its like chucking 98 into a corolla

Mines just on good ol king superlows, has tyres level with guards on 215/45/17s, I wouldn't go any lower with the state of chch roads at the moment, already got one crack in the bumper. Mine is on factory bilsteins and the ride is pretty firm still, never bottomed out on me or done anything stupid. Still firm enough I can chuck a couple hundred kg in the back and ride ok. As for "better quality springs" - it's a coiled piece of steel. You will get the same result from a $50 set of second hand coils as a set of $500 made in japan ones, so long as spring rate and height is the same, they will behave identical. My BH GTB and my current BG (97?) both get about 10-14l / 100km, I do a mix of open road and around town, big exhausts and the boost was / is wound up etc on both. I still don't get why everyone is so against front mounts on them? I've driven a couple with them and didn't notice the difference in spool time (it might be there, but I couldn't pick it) or time taken to switch to secondary, just they had no heat soak after sitting at the lights anymore - it's not like they are a responsive motor to start with anyway.

Got the proper front bumper for the car fitted - had pre-facelift one originally Painted brakes black Cut & polished headlights Its the little things that make such a difference to how a car looks

Struggled to *fit* it in

So in theory, if centre diff is locked you could ahem remove front axles for some sweet auto dorifto antics God that'd be a fun car to balance on the throttle, a TT scooby combined with an auto box - one or the other is bad enough. Waaaarp got a sweet drift now bro *back off* *auto changes down* floor it *no boost car straightens up* OH THERE'S THE BOOST *steps out again* Another subaru v power pole makes the news

I know there's the cat converter in the primary downpipe - but is the resonator looking thing approx in line with the gearstick a second cat, or a resonator? My BH had one about there but it looked quite a bit different, just want to be sure before I bother trying to bash it out haha - 220kms on the clock it will be loooong past doing anything other than being a blockage anyway!

How much boosty boosty - if it sees too much for long enough it'll fuel cut & give that code

The budget way - just opening flappers & blocking venty things and crossing fingers. 15 minute job max to do it and undo it again so no harm done, just curious. Just followed the hose diagram (smurff?) or someone posted up years back, albiet just unhooking the ECV outright. To be honest it was better than I expected - made full boost by about 4000 in first and second, did a couple hundred km's with no codes popping up. I would have gotten a video but my boost gauge is out of sight and it's pretty hard to get an impression without seeing it I spose. Swapped it back because it sounds horrendous until it starts making some boost, sounds like a messed up 5cyl motor or something (or worse, a non turbo subaru). Probably the only downside, for me at least. Short version is it wasn't as bad as what a grillion forum posts had guessed it was like - it was a bit like driving an 1800 with a TD05 or something on it - it didn't make FULL boost till when the secondary is starting to wake up normally but it ramps up pretty smoothly before that. I imagine that with the proper extractors (or twin primaries?) it'd be fine, the noise when it's waking up actually sounds pretty mean (in my uneducated bogan opinion). It's the kind of thing I imagine would make sense to do if you were just taking it out for a fang / track day / traffic light grand prix as opposed to day to day? Depends on how you drive I guess.

Pro of a venting BOV: Noise Thats it. Cons are minor and sometimes not even noticable - average idle (sometimes), backfires on gearshift (ok, that's a pro), looking like a boyracer scumbag (pro or con depending on your personality) Up to you if you want to spend a couple hundy for some woosh noises - novelty wears off pretty quick. Same as a vented wastegate I guess, each to their own. As for the exhaust - I don't know the legalities these days but the cat is one of the biggest restrictions in the system, even just removing that and leaving the rest stock will net you gains you can feel (f&!k the environment)

Jeeze - painful thing is that blue civic would be winning car shows in the early 00's - chromes white interior AND its on bagz bro

Diaphragm is 100% replaceable, to be fair it is the only part which really counts as can wear out or break. (I've heard of super budget ones breaking the shaft bit) - a lot of people will buy a fake gate but replace the diaphragm with a genuine Tial one.

This video is like 10 min long but it *probably* has something useful in it - I just can't be bothered watching all 10 mins lols at the smoking AYC diff in the regrum though

Thought I had cleaned it out (engine clean then CRC up the hoses, seemed to fix it), super intermittently it kept being a munter though. Don't think it was ecu pulling boost back at all purely cause it would sit on 9-10psi and just rando jump up to 15ish halfway through a gear Went with the solution of removing it from the equation, just running 14psi on primary and secondary via a relief valve now, comes on boost way faster now and much "smoother" I guess, shortens the VOD a bit too which can't be a bad thing. Toyed with the using a hobbs switch or something and a spare solenoid I had in the garage but this way works just as well and I'm too lazy to stuff around any more Jaseandjess - the factory boost control solenoid is tucked away inside the passenger's guard I think, hose 23 feeds to it and it then vents through hose 10 back the other way. You can trace it from the WG tee-off, up behind the battery and into the wing somewhere.

My logic goes the other way. You'll blow motors with excess knock, and especially in a high km motor having backpressure in the system from a blocked up cat converter is a sure fire way to increase the likelihood of det occuring. If you reduce the restriction past the cylinder, you will then be able to make the same power, at possibly a lower boost pressure, and safer. Ideally to make more power from a turbo car, you will just remove as much restriction as possible. Raising the boost on a restrictive setup will do more harm than just whipping the cat out. IF a car continues to overboost on "wastegate pressure" then the problem lies with the WG itself not flowing sufficiently - lancer evos being a prime example, just a decat and big exhaust is enough to need to bore out the WG a bit or they overboost up the top end. The reason that people go on about it being such a dangerous thing on a legacy is that the factory sets these cars up with all the restrictions in place - having 1 or 2 cats post-turbo, big muffler to quiet it down etc, and sets up the boost control to suit this. It is not a closed loop system, it won't deviate from what it already works with, even if you take away all these bottlenecks. Hence people end up running big boost. Best solution then is to remove all the restriction you can, make things as efficient as possible - but if the boost is now too high, common sense says to take the factory boost control out of the loop and set it to a reasonable level yourself.