lachlan

On the left strut tower . Silver plate . Gc8 letter . If it ends in 47d itll be ra . 4dd is sti ra . May be others tho

The initial figures for head gaskets u could pretty much do with the right lenght bar and a fish scale

Oh god fk that . Id do it if it was my car and only one etc . But fk doin it after hours times 2 for a dufus I dont owe anything . Cheers

Bh5d needs both front wheel beerings . Where do we get them from for less than 180 a piece . And will a 12t press cut it for changing them ?

Pfft at 'vag com '

Location ?

I just added 25% ($150) To the budget for this car . Thats for two vf27s and a broken vf26 ... Also fk me the ecv is an ugly pos . Like in erry way . When I get a rev d im swapping it for a butterfly like a supra

nah the secondary down pipe has a join in it . but no cat . the primary downpipe is one piece from turbo to a bolt on flange right at the merge . or are you talking about the main cat ? right after the merge ? yeah u can jus unbolt right next to that and bash it out i really dont think this cat is doing much after 20 years and 200000 kays . well it restricts the exhaust and the noise but thats no use

righto fulleas and fulleasses this is how a lazy shart gets the cat out a primary dp . the engine was out of the car and this whole exercise took less than half an hour step one . grind through the crappy lil welds holding the bottom heat sheild on step 2 chop a square hole select an impliment introduce chosen impliment to cat internals .bash it right through . ream it round a bit . pull it out . bash it through on an angle . repeat a few times . once youve been through it a few times it will break up into chunks . can smash most of it up by hand might need to give it a bash and a shake . comes out pretty easy keep going untill it stops rattling much . and untill you get these 3 bits of mesh out . much better weld your square back in weld the heat sheild back on with 5 little ****ty bits of weld yeah there are easier ways to do this or more professional ways . getting a piece of pipe suitable is difficult and actually getting it to fit requires a few goes at tacking it and being under the car etc . this you can do on the driveways in your jandles and be guranteed it will fit back on exactly like it was . this literally took half an hour and ten minutes of that was fixing the welder i think i did this once for a single turbo dp aswell . to be honest you are better off cutting the side out of the cat pulling the cat guts out and welding the side back on and its fkn hard/takes longer to smash right through the 2 cores in a single dp. then u can take the cat core to the scrappys for $30 if u need to replace a primary turbo then its the prefect time to do this . and replace the turbo to intercooler hoses at the same time . will literally make it feel like a new car

A massive boost leak sounds likely actually

Theres no pic there when I click link . Mighr be my s3 related tho

How do u read that differential pressure line ?/how do u interpret it ?and what way do u have it displayed . Shoyld we read it as a 5v scale on the y axis ?

All speedos over read by nearly 10% so 110 indicated is max 104 actual . Oddly enough my 94gt speedo is bang on

Clutch rebuilds will grind a flywheel for **** all . 50 to do a flywheel and cage for twin plate . 40 to do a standard flywheel . All round general good guy . Will build performance clutches etc . Said he often solves problems for bnt lol . And dont even mention those two other bs clutch places in chch

Lol wut ? Fuel cut defender is for going higher than the factory boost limit . Not speed cut defender ...

Bout ten primary and up to 12 13 secondary . All the afms were like that . Makes no difference

Go get a $6 spring from mitre 10 . About as hard as u can stretch 50 mm with your hands and about 100 mm long . Hook it on the actuator arm and hook it on the actuator . Can . Test drive . Find something else to hook it on if u want more or less

If you have a power bar long enough to reach the chassis rail then the starter motor is by far the easiest and has theleast potential for skinned knuckles and hitting **** with a hammer . A 10mm allen key between the ring gear and housing will stop the motor sufficiently to undo it aswell

go away with that gabbling elsewhere can u view and edit tt parameters etc marky ? or change much else in the ecu or is it that u can adjust figures in the fuel and timing tables and thats about it ?

if you find the right bits on trade me its no more difficult than changing oil and filter and wiring a head unit . also id rate a water temp gauge over a oil temp . for oil temp to get to a oil is always hotter and as en engine warning device its far too late . in saying that if oil temp interests you then go for it if you dont do those things then sorry im not in aucks

if you find the right bits on trade me its no more difficult than changing oil and filter and wiring a head unit . if you dont do those things then sorry im not in aucks

Aw cummon I hadnt even got to valve caps and taking 8 thou off the dipstick . I think youll just end up dissapointed . It will be pretty laggy . Prolly wont make a whole lot of power and prolly wont last all that long . I mean if ur doin all the work yourself and got half an idea then give it a whirl . If your payin for fabrication and install etc it will just lead to frustration . Have you got a power figure in mind ? Theres quide a few thread with the basics to achieve said power levels http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?37777-How-to-get-power-out-of-your-WRX-STI

Aw cummon I hadnt even got to valve caps and taking 8 thou off the dipstick . I think youll just end up dissapointed . It will be pretty laggy . Prolly wont make a whole lot of power and prolly wont last all that long . I mean if ur doin all the work yourself and got half an idea then give it a whirl . If your payin for fabrication and install etc it will just lead to frustration . Have you got a power figure in mind ? Theres quide a few thread with the basics to achieve said power levels

Thats fkn amazing . How come there are 3 plots at 4230 rpm ?and a change in speed lol . Is it sensor lag ? I wanna drive it .

Depends if youve got all the supporting mods like a pod filter and some blue silicon hoses