tebbyj

Everything is linked in one way or another haha seems odd that a relatively stock car would run like crap on a stock tune, considering that Subaru know what their doing. Suppose it comes down to our shit fuel. Ive been reading this guide http://www.scribd.com/doc/66346237/A-Subie-Newbie-Tuning-Guide-1-0 As well as watching youtube videos and the such just to get a basic idea. When SP00N did your map did you flash that to car then just start running logs and switching things up from there?

Why thank you ;D Are you saying car ran like shyte on standard tune? so just buy adjusting AFRs and timing etc. you can ward off knock up to that level. Still trying to get my head around the process i guess. I understand the basics of timing and fueling at least, obviously thats just the start haha [quote name='SP00N said: that is a good tune i gave u bro..took a while to get it to where i wanted with 98oct.. So SP00N, once i get all up and running with my cable and ECUFlash (not on the top of the to do list at the moment but making its way up) would you be willing to set up a base tune for me? With payment of course.... ( to be discussed at later date) Once i can send you some log files and stuff. Will just be with basic mods.

You may need a helping hand as it mite be in up pipe or or manifolds cant be at back and front of car at same time lol Its not a leak at the gauge or gauge line is it? Has been known to happen as well haha

If the turbo was gone it would happen all of the time that your on boost not just when you get to 10 pounds. Plus car is standard and with low ks so i think turbo will be fine. Either intake or exhaust leak me thinks. Seeing as youve checked intake and held okay, Get car up in the air running block the exhaust (for 30 seconds to 1 min only at a time) see if it makes the sound then.

So in your case taking some timing out gave better power? or was that just to allow for the 98RON fuel? Ive herd the the V7s are known for the same things and pull alot of timing for our fuel and det is a lot more prevalent in the Rev D legacy\'s that came if from japan apposed to earlier models. As for altering the cable, I had seen these posts before about it, but always thought it would be better (for peace of mind sake) to get one that was built for the job. After all it is like playing with the cars brain and one wrong move can make a very big bang haha

Was over 500 new from subaru when i priced one up. Put on of these aftermarket ones in my gtb and it went well for the few months i had it after that at a fraction of the price. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/electrics/auction-600742774.htm

Well thats considerably cheaper than the $130USD cables that I was looking at haha Seems to log okay, just want to know what its like with writing and MAP editing as i understand it thats the difficult part lol Did you have much knock on the standard tune?

you can tell when a 02 sensor has crapped out when your car starts running rich or lean. I THINK ??? :-\ ??? 8) ;D yes and no, car will definitely alter mixtures if O2 Sensor is bung but sometimes the sensor doesn\'t actually stop working. It just gets stuck (per say) so computer thinks its fine and runs that mixture which might not suit the operating condition.... if that made sense. Ie: O2 sensor gets stuck at .7v and the car thinks thats rich so it leans the mixture, which would cause rough running when cold, and under heavy acceleration.

Yea i think you will need a jumper cable between two terminals (cant remember which ones) just a peace of wire with spade terminals at either end is all you need. This just allows the ECU to be written too. Where do you get the cable from?

Ive herd that theory around but standing on the brakes doesn\'t do anything as the ECU has its own in board capacitor which is there to hold memory plus keep SRS system activated, brake lights don\'t tie into this at all. [quote name='greg0r said: Going to take it to a.mate to scan tonight. But ill check the record on the boost gauge to just checked the peak recall on the defi and came up with around 1.55, so think theres the problem I dont think this would trigger a CEL it would just cause a fuel cut wouldn\'t it? But get it scanned and see what comes back.

I dont even think they provide a diag chart anymore... In the manual it only talks about using a Subaru Select Monitor or generic OBD scan tool to retrieve and clear codes.

My V7 WRX has got 156ks on it, still good as new Old V4 had 175ks when it started to get abit rattly.. Highest i\'ve seen was a mates dads Camry with 626ks on it when it went pop (ex taxi)

Exsactly, pull the Neg lead from the battery and leave off for 30-45mins should clear ECU memory. Then let us know if the fault comes back again.

I\'ve also wanted to get into this... My research has shown that these VAG-COM cables allow you to read but not write and i correct B4_685? Ive also found that if you want to save some money head on over to http://www.evoscan.com/ as they have the same cables for a lot less, i believe you want a 1.3U cable which should cover all subys from 99-07. Then all you need is romraider and ECUFlash Plus a jumper cable (can be made for very cheap) and your away laughing. Only reason I haven\'t gone for it is I run Mac which limits what i can do as far as logging is concerned.

greg0r Are you sure it was a code 15? And how did you get this code? on scanner or flashing CEL method. Shouldn\'t (as the car is a 2000 V7) it be an OBD 2 code ie PO264 or PO265? What code 15 means essentially is that the ECU has picked up a high or low resistance in the injector 2 circuit at any one moment of time. This can be caused by any number of things, but if the CEL didn\'t stay on then the fault cant have been logged for long. And if the code can be cleared and it doesn\'t return then that pretty much proves that there isn\'t anything seriously wrong... In short I wouldn\'t worry unless it comes back.

Its been proven that in the long run a Prius does more environmental damage than a Land Rover Discovery....

I thought i better post this again for anyone who missed it. Does make for good reading. Is the same test as in the Royal Purple video but with a more varied range of oils. Its a bit out dated still gives good information on brands. http://www.lnengineering.com/oiltest.pdf

Get the 02 sensor tested as they do wear out Bosch recommend replacing them at regular intervals. They get lazy and can cause the car to over fuel. And you\'ll be surprised how much difference a good (full) service with the correct materials makes.

LED lights have to be put in the correct way to insure the polarity is right ie: positive to positive and neg to neg. If they don\'t work pull them out and switch them around.

Haha had the same thing happen to me!! If you find a store that has them in stock i think there like $32 each... NGK PFR6B or G I got them on special for $22.49 each. ;D Just a tip you can get NGK iridiums BKR6EIX i think.. cheaper than platinum\'s on trade me and are in essence the same plug. Ran just fine in my V7 anyway... just don\'t get the -11\'s because they have a 1.1mm gap.

How do you tell if you have AVCS or not? Mines got a big bulge over the intake cam on the drivers side cambelt cover so i assumed it had it. 2001 JDM GGA 20K (WRX)

For anyone wondering about the dash clock on a V7 or Forester that have a habit of sh*ting out. Certain models of Mitsubishi from 98-02 have a clock in them that has the same plug and only needs a very minor modification to mounts to fit in. Works perfectly and only a 5 min job, I got mine out of an 2000 Cedia at pick a part. Think it was only $7 been working perfectly for several months.

Sounds very much like the same people tbh, my alarm siren was smashed in the gutter. I think were lucky because this guy obviously isn\'t very good at what he does lol

Says to do it at operating temperature on the can so thats how i do it. The can knows best.

You forgot the coolest euro of the 90s!!