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I gave the boxes I had absolute death and never had any issue under load. Later in the piece I had launch and flat shift but did plenty of both with just dumping clutch or banging gears with pedal on the floor. All v3-6 sti boxes and a v7 etc box. What oil are you using?

Are you smashing gears up and down at high load, or being really rough? Linkage bushes and engine/box mounts in good condition?

I think it would be a smart choice for the larger displacement builds where torque slays boxes.

Short version: can you set up paddle shift and how much power torque do they handle once modded?

Wouldnt cost much for a retune with the larger exhaust...devils advocate and all.

V9 seem to still command 20-25k unless theyre after a quick flick or high km them 18-20k. V8 seem similar.

Nice. Pity you didn't have a 3" TH exhaust.

Any work on the chambers?

Start with a type r? Closer to your goal and cheaper in the long run.

American fuel is not the same as ours. There 93 is our 98 iirc or close enough.

End of the day with your setup @Username I wouldn't bother switching it all out as discussed its an epic amount of coin for a possibly low return.

@rex-leggy was 2.35 with an hx3540 or hx40 iirc and that was epic. @gotasuby would have details but curve was insane and made massive power before lifting heads around 6k iirc.

I was meaning in a general sense not EJ specific. I don't know you would have to ask Steve. I know there's not many but it's not an easy feat fitting one to a sub compared to garrett stuff. Don't see many twin scroll garrett builds eithet which makes it hard to compare on both fronts. In the states its generally been gt40 or 42 size stuff in a t4 footprint and often with added displacement. I personally think you need a 2.5 or larger to offset the lower efficiency on a sub but I dont have evidence to back it up. The difference with my 2 vs 2.5 was night and day as far as response goes.

Holsets require a different approach to headers than say a garrett. Hence why murch likes to spec the build. If you want something off the shelf that doesn't cost moonbeams the ssi unequal are the way to go. Trade me or nzkw.

The design of the header and collector can play a bigger part than the whole tuned etc debate. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/50300-stock-headers-vs-ssi-style-headers/

V8- have the hypereutectic pistons with nitrided crank. Pretty sure rods have tapered pin end also.

Ssi unequal work well.

I think that's the definition of failure.

Sounds like I need to have a look at comparable oil options thats complete bum rape.

It was v5/6 so it was one coil pack/wasted spark. No idea I paid cost but rrp wouldn't be cheap.

Sounds similar too when my coil pack blew.

For anything 2000- use 5w30 or 5w40 full synthetic fine for 10000km but anywhere from 5000km on is fine. 10w40 is generally a semi syn petrol orientated oil or a late euro spec diesel orientated PAO oil. Any of the PAO full synthetic oils are streaks of ahead of a group 3 synthetic. With oil and filters stick to brand names. Castrol, Elf, Total etc and Ryco, Sakura, Fram, Wix etc. Oil testing is generally Only done on engines where lack of production costs copious amounts of coin. Like a 24 hour container crane type thing. You generally follow trends through ongoing analysis and require 3 samples to determine a base line.

If you have different ratios front to rear the centre diff is toast you can get what feels like someone tugging on the steering wheel if you hold it loosely while cornering. Easiest way to check is the number on the gearbox bellhousing and for rear diff turning the driveshaft and count the turns on shaft and wheels.

Possibly ignition system start with plugs. What's it boosting? Possibly centre diff on the steering wheel tugging. Check box and rear diff ratio match. Also alignment is the obvious choice.

Hence my in the guard question. If its not its a horrible idea.