marc

Matt, to my knowledge the early p2 aka v5/6 and early b4 use the same trigger pattern. I would have to go turn a set of cam gears over to be 110% sure but as far as I remember at this time of night only the later p2 uses the lesser cam trigger points and more crank trigger points.. Could be proven wrong however cus I don\'t want to go out to the shed right now :-X lol

I\'ve got some of the STI RA rays but not keen on giving them away so pm me if your willing to pay a decent price, if not the v7 STI wheels are probably a good bet..

Cam gear to camshaft locator.. P1 uses a small dowel in the cam gear and p2 uses a slot that mates with a dowel already in the cam..

Yep use expeansion chamber to barrel springs of the good old 2 strokes!! 5 bux a pair from most decent dirt bike shops.

Yeah bro 95% will make it

Yeah wingers is easy but I have replied on your wanted..

Shoulda got me to do it Andrew :-X

Nope can do it engine out. Best with a DTI (dial test indicator) aginst the flywheel mating surface of your crank (make sure DTI base has a good footing too) then measure the clearence (movement) from crank pulled forward to crank pushed back basicly. (easier to move crank around with the timing sprocket on and aux front pully on well I reckon lol). Altho this shouldnt cause your belt to walk!! :-X

Hes meanin aka farked thrust washers/crank thrust surface, u need to push the clutch in and out then grab the crank pully and pull it forwards towards the radiatior and see if it goes clunk forward. A little movemnt is ok like sweet fark all to the human hand. Im not saying its not that but ive seen a few subarus (pretty damn rare) with like 2mm of movent from extreamly worn thrust washers and the belt has still suprizingly been fine. All it can really be is one of your idlers/cam sprockets etc isant true. (common sense) or the belt would run true. It could be somthing really out there (too stupid to bother mentioning really lol - like head machined on the wack of wack angles or somthing rediculas) but I still say more then likly what I first said. Get som1 properly experenced to take a look for you just to double check.. Or wait for others to start bouncing ideas cus its a pain over the net without being infront of the car...

Ither your camera wouldn\'t focus or my eyes/computer are bugged as I can\'t see much in that last photo lol. The one that I\'m thinking has red lock tight or similar all over it?! Definitely not a help and can\'t really see the tensioner one. Post up some better close ups of all the mounts? Bit hard to tell over the internet without feeling them etc but yeah can\'t help much more from here otherwise . If u really get stuck and live in auckland not to far from mt Wellington I might be able to have a quick 2 second look

Why not buy some oem jets and mount them to your zero sports splitter since it already has provision for them and in the right place.. Just my 2c :-X.... But hey I\'m a nice guy . Might even have some if I dig for long enough..

The one opposite the tensioner on the other side of the crank pully is usually the culprit. Look closly too as it only takes a small burr on the block surface to create a pain in the ass. But check all while your there

Hmm It took me a little while to find my fisrt one of these haha and yep was fixing som1 elses fark up... but ill share my knowledge with you (dont usually bother on here :-\ ) I almost garentee u when som1 (whoever built your block or similar) seperated the halves etc hit your cambelt idler mount to the left of your crank pully in your picture and thus causes the belt to "run off" as the idler is not square andy more. With the engine like it is (apart no crank pully/covers on etc) put a spacer of some form on your crank pully bolt and put it in the crank pully so you can rotate the engine over clockwise. Then rotate and see if it wants to "walk" the belt off your centre crank sprocket. If so pull off all your idlers and check their block half seating surfaces..

I could have told you these 2 things without even seeing the car Find me a 15 year old Subaru with a non-leaking factory rocker cover gasket... I dont know who does a genuine V7 STI shrtblock and leaves old gaskets to leak?? :

Yes u can use v3 dccd box in yours but no u cannot use cluster, have to find v4 dccd one if u Wana swap yours.

Ahh more understandable then my words hahah

Puts it in a lathe and uses a air powered emery tape band wheel and rotates the crank while polishing it with the strip of emery tape on spinning band wheel device lol. Thats about good as my english skills can explain it dahah

I was quite surprised at abtec\'s 4 DD 10\'s that did a touch over 150dB in a hatch vitz I think it was lol. Not even the complete high end model sub ither. I don\'t think id like to be in that either when I heard it

Haha thanks, my thoughts too! Makes for a good sleeper at the same time , excpt for the plate lol but its just that a plate lol most don\'t even "live up" to the plate half the time anyway lol

Like as in tomorrow or next week?

Mines mainly been less use but when it gets it is long road trips etc. Good on you man gota use it or whats the point ae, been telling myself use it this year! So hopfully ill try do some meets, track days etc where my Hondas cheep gas bill / ease of parking etc doesnt win me over stright away lol : :-X Haha yeah that poor car has had a few forms over the years. (like 4 tunes on that engine :-[ ) Was a good car with that TD06 twin scroll and Process West TMIC setup u say but yeah after I did my GC8 back in the day ive been chasing that 11sec power again lol and thought ah ill be fine with 230-240wkw in a later model cruiser..... well we know how that went. Definitly looks better under the bonnet and from outside in person but photo and subaru wise hard to get under the bonnet looking nice with alot going on - ie factory stuff like A/C, no cutting for cool piping routes, un necessary wirng removed etc cus i couldnt lol

Sounds like an idea, Just got a wedding on the weekend but its a weekday meet ae Andrew?

Thanks Andrew lol, though about it for a while. What sounds good, wont dissapoint too much after being used to solid bass and is pretty compact. Was going to go Alpine Type X 10" / PDX 1.600 combo but just abit much $ for now haha and always liked the DD stuff + Alpines MRX mono stuff is pretty good too, been using a 4 channel one for my components. Will tradme some of my leftovers :\'(

Swpped out my T4 and giant Soundstream amp for somthing a little smaller and lighter. Hmm 70% odd boot space usable now . Good old DD 10" and Alpine Mono.

Thanks guys, Yeah Jonny just tryd to keep it practacle and suttle. Still has A/C and all, could well be used as a daily if i ownd a gas station or bank haha. That was the aim tho to keep it nice and street friendly but with decent power on tap for the ability to do the odd track day and drags. Thanks Eric, might end up abit more extreme depending on weather I finish my other engine and put it in but to be honest Im pretty happy how it is . Really do wish I had some better pics but might just get it out and about abit more, done 12,000kms in 4 years!