marc

Or project that fallen thru : lol. Group buy maby? did my plug in like that a while back and saved 2 or 3 hundred.

and as to your other questions... Exhaust will fit, coils will not but just use early WRX or TT legacy single bolt ones and will work, have to custom throttle body adaptor and cable mount, will have no IACV ules u get welding as above, Injectors wont fit but just use the bigger V5/6 yellows and rails. If you want it to work out tidy, run properly and not have problems I wouldnt attempt it unless I was really board or stuck on mars and a subby could get me home. ;D but then you midas well change the loom. Another idea is some billet manifold adaptors that float around from time to time... Im sure some1 or a quick internet search will know where to find/buy them

Not if you want a IACV that works.... (maby if you got welding lol then yeah spoze you could make it work). Otherwise not really man unles as stated you dont mind no IACV and are running a link ecu.

Ill let some one else elaberate as im lazy tonight but put it this way... BIG MISSION! find V3/4 STI shim under heads instead.... problem solved. ;D

Yep The R boxes seem to be pretty tough from what ive seen too. A guy I know ran 10's with a stock V4 Type R box and thats the box that ended up in mine doing 11s and never broke even after his abuse :. Stickey rubber and hard launches with 370wkw. I do still wonder how long it will go for tho. He ran it for about 15 passes and not much street driving then I did probably another 15 passes of vairying powers lol and a year on the street! So even thats a good example I reckon ???. as opposed to four V5/6/RSK/GTB boxes in 3 months with only like 5 passes between them (low 12s) and the rest of the time road driving. Both of us were running the redline shock proof pink stuff with a tiny bit of the redline friction modifyer when I ownd it.

Yeah could be a partialy loose clamp but yeah just do what you said. If anything it means your primary turbo may be passing a tiny bit of oil part the compressor side. A little bit of oil is normal but abit is not a good sign. A little will pool up in the low points over time and thats what you may be seeing. Would be nice to pull the IC off, look at how much oil is in it, then re tighten the clamps and bolts. If theres abit of oil in there clean it out then drive the car for a day or so the re check the intercooler. If thers abit of oil in it again you may have a turbo issue. But as stated Id say you 95% have nothing to worry about and it IS normal to have a little weapage on them

Is common and doesnt seem to cause any problems from my experence. Usually its just the inlet gaskets or the bolts/clamps loosing. easy fix at home however gettin a TT intercooler back on for the 1st time can be a nightmare for some lol. Do you know where abouts the leak is coming from to be specific?

Motors can pop if they feel like it in reality lol as most of us probably know . But yeah 16-17psi on a stock setup with exhaust and intake pipe is fine. And your asumption sounds about right but yeah even a link G4 (what you need if you want it to run well with decent size injectors and IAT correction ect) , a some injectors and a turbo + tune will sit you back a 4K+ to do nicely. Then yeah I wouldnt like to try make 230 atw with a V4 TMIC so add somthing there plus a fuel pump if you dont have and you should be there.. (you may JUST scrape thru withthe stock tmic but I mean just and your IAT's will be getting up there & depending on dyno :)

I must of had some really bad luck with th TY754VBAAA boxs lol, stripped the teeth off 3rd year in 4 different V5 STI and BH GTB boxs. That wasnt baging gears ither..nice shifts and 250kw atw. Hope you have better luck ;D

dont know why people seem to think closed deck makes the world of difference on any street/odd track day car below 280wkw ish. Makes next to NO difference in 2.0L world.. Pistons,rods and how well it was assembled/built/treated/tuned is what counts there. If its STI pistons not even so much the pistons as stated more the rods.. If it does have V7 on "bolt type" rods it should be good for a reliable 250 on the street odd track day if it has all the right external components (link, enough fuel etc) and a good tune. There has been examples of them fail before that power but other things come into play when argueing that. If its got old rods (nut type) I wouldnt go much past 220wkw if you dont want a hole in your "closed deck block".

+1

Correct, even if you re-connect the sensor after you have turned the car on without it it wont forget and needs the code cleared with the laptop and pc link. Didnt see this post earlier lol

GTB 206kw anyway and foz is not correct? Foz will make ita power earlier so if you keep the GTB up top it should do well! Weight means alot too. Dont know the specs for these 2 cars in that area but power to weight means roughly whos going to win. Excpt for power delivery eg torque, spool etc Id say GTB tho if you ask me just ring it out in the secondary

Thanks boon. 650 should be good for a low kms mint one then really! Just gota get round to listing it now lol

Yep as stoffa said is correct. I changed my P18 rear housing to a lightly portd P20 (on Apexi AX53B70 and definitly made a difference. As to how much.... only my next dyno run or a dyno day will give me an idea. Its like comparing a VF23 with a VF24. Nothing except the exh housing is different yet its a known fact the VF23 has more top end. Just like my apexi does now. I reckon a VF34 P20 would be the ultermate "street" turbo at around 230wkw. Or you would leave it as is and have a peaky 220wkw odd... (just talking turbo flow here not the rest so ofcource subject to engine setup tune etc for any people about to say somthing ) Not you funky

Yeah thanks guys, I think I remember one going for similar money on trademe once but yea all depends what people want to pay. I had 650 in mind so sounds like its wrth a go. They are good turbos, have seen good numbers and response and well cant ask for much more from a bolt on without spending 1K+. Can always do P20 housing if you want that extra bit out of it anyway Might list it on here or trademe and see what happens Thanks once again for the input

Hopefully they see this and share there info

What $ you guys think a VF34 is wrth? Mint as done 80K and duno if they ment to be like the 30 interms of exhaust housing problems but this one has NO cracks internal gate port area. I know they are awesome factory fitment single scroll turbos and have a fair idea but just keen to hear from anyone who has actually sold one... or someone who possibly want to buy one Thanks guys

I might have some up for sale soon. was after 900 tho. disks, pads and calipers front and rear.

Im with Click and its $126 a month and 3k theft excess (5star alarm and in a garage). Sounds like im paying too much :-\. Ill keep my eyes out for the car ..... could do with 5k ;D

Ill give them a ring in the future . Thanks hopfuly the hook me up with some lol.

repco....and its $42.99 per L retail and trade doesnt knock much off!!

U can do it without the expansion loom. I did it that way but yeah easier just to spend 50 and do it the easy way lol. I soldered a jumper on the underside of the board to the purge solinoid trigger pin on the header then used the factory wiring in the engine bay. (custom fuel setup so no charcole canister) Saved me running extra wires thru the fire wall and buying a loom but wouldnt reccomend it to a random person lol.

Did you use a mirror? They are tucked well in there. are they inside the banjo bolt, coz i've taken the whole line off and nothing . OR are they in the oil 'gallery' that the banjo bolt goes into?? In the bolt itself. if its AVCS aka in v7 sti it wont have one im 99.5% sure lol

Finally got a scanner ;D. will post my one some time shortly just so I dont look like a muppet in "claimed times" now lol.