Codex

I spoke great England

Looks intentional to me I DEMAND SAUCE

Honestly the only source I had was people i\'d worked with previously. Only source similar to what they have said is: http://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd+40 But if you\'re experience points to the opposite then i\'ll happily concede to that.

Well even though WD40 can be used as a lubricant it isn\'t actually a dedicated lubricant, it\'s water displacing and as such doesn\'t last as long as crc when used to lubricate. After a month or two if used on weather exposed things you\'ll get erosion eventually too. I\'ve always found it quite good to use wd40 first on rusty bits and then follow up with crc. Although if you\'re happy with its performance in the situations you\'re using it then i\'m not questioning that, go for gold. The one I used it on rusted again after a month or so, but after using wd40 again to clean it up then using crc it was fine ever since. Although I haven\'t actually had a bike for years now o-o The main use I had for it was if I had something anodized that got scratched you use wd40 and a scotch pad and it buffs it out

I\'d use wd40 for some things (works magic when trying to fix anodizing too ) but after seeing what id does to bike chains i\'d be cautious o-o turns bike chains into rust factories lol

No alarm and no insurance?

Have never come across it o-o bad effects on engine?

e10? Ethanol?

yeah I\'d really like to see mobil 98 down here >_>

Well he said not in a public place

BP papanui road is keeping it

Moved it out of the garage to find a few drips of oil coming off of gearbox, cannot work out the source just being a baddy D: might see if hijacka can take a looksy

Gotta be kidding me ::< If that\'s the case is mobil fuel better than BP when it comes to 95? I get 15 cents a litre off through work so would be silly to use 95 from bp unless there\'s a good reason Have been using 98 religiously

We don\'t have a t connector from the bov to the intake so no. The second gen turbo system is fairly different in hose layout (trust me, rebuilt my black box recently, although someone had done a delete on a solenoid in it so perhaps it\'s similar)

yeah i\'ve had worse than that repaired also, although had to get a new set recently anyway as the roads down here decided to grace me with so many screws and nails that the walls started cracking

What area are you in? If close could give you a hand

Lol tis the sad truth of many vehicles around

^All of my hate for that "hurrrrr engine failed because it\'s bad, nothing to do with the fact it\'s never had a coolant or oil change ever"

Lol yeah I was, sorry for thread hijack

Unfortunately I didn\'t do the original installation not sure who did it. It was working fine using the original loom then apparently one day the headunit either slid out and stopped working or something similar. It works with key on, turns off with key off but without the constant it doesn\'t save anything. [quote name='kwi_fozze said: I think the issue is an undertaking of electrical work without a correct tester... Get a $20 multimeter from dse or repco or similar, and wire it properly... Will save you a buggered battery... Yeah that\'s the plan, I have a volt metre already so will use that and borrow a friends tracing wand to find where the break is. Assuming I can get to it before he sells up before going to aus >_<

Yeah did they do anything major to it?

Loom is wired perfectly, quadrupole checked. All fuses are fine too. For now we\'ve run a battery lead for constant

Previous owner syndrome My abs does the on off thing but I\'ve never been able to get it to actually work D:

Bugger dude

For a friends gen 1 legacy, jvc unit. For some reason the constant 12 isn\'t constant and can\'t work out why.