Andy_Mac

Yea subaru do not offer rebuild parts so you would be looking at trying to find correct o rings and all that yourself. Probably not worth it in the end if you want to be completely sure of it... Even japanparts is rather steep https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/27290

Maf is pretty good at causing that but spark plugs are pretty easy so worth checking anyway

Wasn't the headgasket issue more for the 3rd gen legacy's or did these have it too?

My one has a large diameter zerosports catback and in my opinion that sounds the tits, probably is mainly down to the muffler though. Definately no need to go any closer to the turbo than that, would probably cause some hectic boost spikes if not tuned aswell

So it is the twin turbo?

Was considering them myself so would be good to hear a bit more about them aswell

That sucker there in case you didn't know already And the tmic isn't removed for what you're doing (;

^^ just detuned like most auto subaru's. Can't you tune the newer auto trannys to be more aggressive and less sluggish, sure i've read someone saying they've done it to theirs somewhere.

Are the auto's even that low on power? Vf38's were on manuals too. Sure its not just a matter of getting a tune?

Mate if you ever come down to tga you can still try out my controller and we can have a look over your system for potential leaks and such. Any sort of boost cut that low is definately not right. Have a few brewski's afterwards. CS is pretty dead down this way aye. Tga town is alright if your that way inclined (;

And its doing the same with the controller turned off? Try renoving the battery to clear all old codes and then take it for a boost and see what codes show up after doing that.

Yea i don't think there should be any kind of boost cut that low. I think mine does 11psi before switchover. Did it do it with the controller off? Try find a steepish motorway/100km area and in 5th, maybe 4th and floor it and see what it goes up to. With the really high load and low revs mine gets 14-15psi on just the primary. Not advisable to do it often though. Not good for the turbo. But its one of the few ways to really test out the primary without the switchover messing things up

The ordeal is almost over!!! Are you saying boost cut at 9psi??

Yea i did mine completely backwards the first time i did mine. Did it reading from the pin side of the connector rather than the side with the wires poking out. Stumped me for a good hour or so haha Hope ya finally get it up and running.

Since he has it working fine with the controller off wouldn't you say the wiring is fine since it wouldn't work even with the controller off if it was wired wrong? For the ones it splits atleast, ones that are tee'd into could be wrong and cause issues with the controller on but be fine with it off. Its only once the controller starts trying to change things that it goes wrong. Though code 62 and 65 would indicate something wrong somewhere with the grey and yellow wires. Could always take the covers off the controller and try look for anything blown/cracked on the circuit board

Probably beside the point now since it seems pretty obvious something is wrong with the controller but 4000 is pretty low. That'll make the VOD way worse than it is as stock. Not sure what the return point is, didn't even know it had one, switch back from twin to single when off throttle?? I always had mine set to around 5000. Keeps you out of the vod more often when not needing the full grunt, and if you really want the kick the VOD much smaller.

Were they optioned in the car from new? Drove the 3rd gen for the first time in a few weeks. Seats are without a doubt a way different league. Also had forgotten how lively it is off boost compared to the new one. Higher compression engine i guess?..

Should be able to see the shaft go in/out. Maybe need a small mirror. Not sure on the internal wiring of the controller and whether it bypasses its own circuits when turned off or what but if all is well with it off then you would definately think its the controller. What is the secondary crossover point set to when on?

Two n a bit hours each way depending on where in aux you are

Long shot but are you sure its definately working and not just the primary slowing down in switchover and then coming back around higher up in the revs?. Not sure if it can do this without going into limp mode though. So that noise near the tmic would be the intake valve for the secondary but the exhaust one might still not be ok. Don't suppose you ever come down to tauranga?

Where you had both together was then car running or just on accessory? 33-speed sensor 51-neutral position http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=28362

From a '93 so might be the same

Never did it on the third gen but the 4th's have them under the glove box. On the centre console side. Quite small connectors both green. Guess older cars are different

^^this. And since you're awhile away from getting another its definately worth pulling that one out and making sure it still runs in twin with it removed. And yea i'll take mine out and you can have that whenever.

Would be pretty unlucky if that was the case. Don't know how you wired it up and if its easy or not but its probably worth unwiring it and seeing if its still goes fine with it removed. Does it through a code/engine light when it goes into limp other than 65?