Andy_Mac

Cheers. So that r92 and r82 means pretty much nothing then?

Looking at getting a spare as i\'m pretty sure mines a bit buggered. One of the guys on here has a rev.b c36-700 r82 and just wanting to know if anyone has tried swapping these? Is there enough difference for it to not do as it should? Mines a rev.c c36-700 r92 Cheers

how important is the gasket on the bov attached to the intercooler? had the intercooler off today and found the gasket sitting there underneath it without a replacement one on the bov

Had the same in mine. Does bugger all over here. Just ditch it

Found the problem, had blown the clock fuse in the engine bay. Still not entirely sure how but everything\'s up and running now, cheers for the help guys

Yea battery has been off each time. And wiring seems right. Haven\'t checked engine bay fuses. Did cabin fuses but not after central locking went so i\'ll give both a big look over tonight

well the unit powered up but now central locking/ alarm? isn\'t working.... this keeps getting better and better

Kinda irrelevent at this point. Deal with that later. So guess tomorrows mish from hell is tracing the wires back through the car and working out whats gone wrong

Actually considering green yellow(red) is supposed to be acc shouldn\'t it only have 12v when the cars on/ in acc? Right now its on regardless

That didnt work so chucked it in a joiner block to check voltages better and got 12v between earth and red but only like 60mv between yellow and earth so guessing something a bit sus is going on with that wire then

for all you audio guru\'s out there I\'ve managed to stump myself on what i thought was a piece a piss job. the cars a 3rd gen legacy which had an old pioneer head unit which I\'ve swapped for a nice shiny new one. pioneer obviously thought it was necessary to change their head unit adaptors so had to stick the new one in. did all the needed wires the same as the old one, which is correct to the diagrams i have other than an illumination wire which the old one never had, which I\'ve tried with and without. upon trying to start the thing up it gives no response at all and the cars clock keeps resetting to 1:00 every time the ignition is turned on. never had any problems with the old one set up the same way which is whats has me lost.

spose i could just run a lower rated amp and just make sure it never gets pushed out too much. yep thats what i was planning, just never heard of it being done so thought there may be some reason not to

Can normal car speakers be run in a bridged setup?, got some annoying 90w components that i\'m struggling to find an amp for that doesn\'t cost a fortune

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,39847.0.html

has the option to change timing and change idling rpm (both A/C on and off) but nothing else, thats for third gens atleast, newer cars might get more options

Seen a couple of guys talking about it on here a while back so not all that new. Just gives you all the sensor data, fast live updating too so will be good for diagnosing issues. Lets you clear/check engine codes. And lets you raise idling. Has a sensor test option but is blanked off for mine so i\'d say its only available for the next generation. And works up to 2009 subys so should be good to keep around for a few years

Sussed it! Turned out the driver wasn\'t installing properly. Finally on the third attempt it got it right. Wasn\'t getting a COM number hence the connection not finding anything. Good software once up and running though

Anyone else had trouble with getting this to run. installed the software which went ok plugged everything in but when you press engine button it just says no serial port available tried manually installing the usb driver which said it was successfull but when you plug the cord into the laptop it still reckons it aint quite right, it now says "a\'s dev consult cable" is ready but no driver for usb serial port and seems to crash each time i go into the details of the consult cable "device" car\'s a rev c be5 if that helps

dunno about the 2001 model but with my 2000 disconnecting the battery for an hour or so does the trick

Changing the spark plugs today and got round three in just over an hour so was feeling pretty chuffed. Got to the last one (passenger side rear plug) and undid the coil pack, though it didn\'t seem to pop off like the others so gave it a bit of a lever and it came off but the green rubber piece the plug sits in pulled off and is still on the plug. Had a go trying to get it off with some needle nose pliers but nothing seems to work. Anyone else had anything like this go down? Wouldn\'t have thought it getting too hot and melting would get it stuck on this tight.

anyone else out there with a TT legacy got an almost buzzy sound coming from engine bay when under load? sounds like its coming from the passenger side so thinking primary ready to shit its pants. doesn\'t make a peep when stationary so am struggling to work it out without having to try get into the turbo.

Had a quick look under mine. There are two motors but they\'ll be doing one rail each to keep it even. Sounds more like the lever isn\'t engaging forward. Could be a bad connection on the seat behind the plastic on the side.

Is the motor trying to move it or do you just hear nothing when you hit the lever

The slim rockford fosgate ones could be another option. They hug the back if the rear seats so would take up a whole lot less space than a conventional sub

Anyone got a place they go to that do a really good job, better yet have a CS discount?