telemekas

The Trademe shows the VF31 turbo which is a primary turbo and has a ball bearing centre housing. The other turbo I can confirm is a VF27 as it has an 8 blade turbine wheel I can see in the photo. This is a secondary turbo and also has a ball bearing centre housing. Turbos with a ball bearing centre are very difficult to rebuild due to the way the BB centre is assembled. Regarding the pairing of turbos: The VF31 primary usually has a VF32 as secondary. The VF27 secondary has either a VF25 or a VF26 as a primary.

Turbos VF31 primary and VF27 (8 blade turbine wheel) secondary both BB turbos. Not the standard pairing of turbos (VF31 with a VF32 and VF25 or VF26 with a VF27) so one has been replaced at some stage. Not usually rebuilt as expensive to do so.

The AUDM BE5 Rev D is essentially set up this way (after diagram) from factory. No metal pipe 10 just a rubber hose into the intake with step-up hose just before 2nd turbo. Rubber hose 10 with step-up hose into intake just before primary turbo.

This is normal. The crankcase vents the engine blow-by vapour via the intake system (EP/Emissions requirements) A small amount of the oil in the vapour condenses out as it cools (surface contact) and coats the intake system including the IC (reducing its efficiency ) the majority is burnt via combustion chamber. The oil accumulates with time and the amount deposited increases as the engine wears due to increasing blow-by. One way to minimize this is to install an oil catch-can. This acts as a oil condensation trap between the crank vent and the intake system. Grimmspeed released one with the trap located in the oil filler cap.

Yes VF31 BB turbo and as primary turbo with P11 turbine housing gets worked very hard. I have several other TT/BB turbos which have had extensive use and they have no play.

Depends on what your other turbo is? The centre section of the VF32 or CHRA ( centre housing rotating assembly) contains the bearing housing and wheel set. The compressor cover and turbine back housing from the VF13 are machined and attached to the VF32 CHRA. (along with the correct WG actuator) -> PE1016F Essentially the VF13 is high flowed with a much larger and different design compressor wheel. (more cost effective way of doing it no VSR etc required)

If your primary turbo is VF13,VF16,VF18 or VF20 then repacing it with your "PE1016F home brew version" would be a significant upgrade.

The VF31 primary BB turbo and VF32 secondary BB turbo have the same wheel sets. The VF32 is a more easily sourced turbo.So remove the CHRA from the VF32 and combined (port comp cover and shave turbine seat waste gate port 2mm) with a primary VF13,VF16,VF18 or VF20 ---> PE1016F Direct swap no mounting issues. A new PE1016F is very expensive http://www.powerenterpriseusa.net/products/turbo/subaru/legacy/legacy.htm What primary turbo does your GTB have?

VF30 is RHF55 while the VF13 is RHF4B primary TT turbo. These have different frame sizes and not compatible for swapping even with machining. The VF30 NonBB has a P18 turbine back while a VF35 is the same turbo on P15 back. He may have been referring to a VF31 RHF4B which has P11 back. Power Enterprise swapped the backs of these for P16 to generate PE1016F turbo. The VF13 has P16 back and can be put on VF31 but the seat needs to be shaved for correct alignment. Changing the VF31 back from P11 to P16 shifts the catch point on the compressor map to the right (therefore later) with approx 10% CFM increase but is further up the rev range.

The VF31 is a good upgrade. (VF32 CHRA on P11 housing) Does it have a pill? (standard TT pill with 0.8mm hole) http://www.cobbtuning.com/info/?ID=3482

Supercharged ( secondary turbo) pressure relief valve. PN 14471

"you can adjust the actuator rod on the ECV to optimise the changeover start the car cold (unless you have heatproof fingers) and undo the locknuts on the ECV adjustment rod and wind it out until you hear it rattle, then wind it in till the rattle stops and then another complete turn then redo the locknuts. this allows it to leak a bit of boost on the primary before the changeover actually starts so it reduces it a bit. you have to play with it a little to get the right amount of leakage or it makes less of a difference or you cant reach full boost on the primary and get poor primary response" Quote ->billsy

All the primary and secondary turbos have the same compressor inlet/outlet approx 47/36mm The VF33 primary turbo is the exception with larger inlet/outlet approx 60/50mm

Yes you can use any of these secondary turbos VF19.VF21,VF27 or PE1018F these are straight bolt on replacements. The VF19 and VF21 will have less flow than your existing VF32. The VF27 and PE1018F are similar

I have compared the pinouts and there is not that many to change. Comparing the JDM, the USDM and the AUDM. The USDM=AUDM. The JDM seemed even easier apart from having AVCs instead of TGVs it had fewer less to delete.

http://www.iaperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=2580 Regarding the parallel turbos good results with TD04-15G/hybrids and not the TD04L-13T-6 as found on the WRX

The JDM motor only has AVCs and no TGVs to worry about. The engine can be run without connecting up the AVCs they will just default into high lift mode. If you want to run the AVCs there is a wiring kit available. Alternatively run the B4 as parallel twin turbo with hybrid TD04s and retune.

Вы используете различные коллекторы (Syms) так не необходимые

Да Извлекайте шланг 22 и преградите тот порт на трубе из черного металла. После этого соедините 22 к 5

Коробка соленоида (1) извлекает шланг и преграждает это будет держать все время клапана IC открытое Коробка соленоида (6) извлекает шланг и коробка соленоида блока (по мере того как вы извлекаете модулирующую лампу вытыхания оно не необходимы) (5) извлекает и после этого соединяет шланг 22 после этого преграждает с где шланг 22 был соединен.

Mitrich. For the BE5 as it is slightly different set up (solenoid box 1,2,3,5,6,8,10,12) you will only need to change as in GTB diagram: 1,5, and 6 1. this will leave the IC valve open (atmos) 5. this keeps the pressure differential sensor happy (alternative is to block 5 at solenoid box and connect 22 via T piece to 2 or 3) 6. this keeps the ECV open. (neg pressure/vacuum from start up) if you look at his pictures, he is beyond doing the line swap thing really, the extractor set thing shows he needs a different turbo and just remove the bbod -smurff Yes I posted just! after he did!. Since he is just removing the ECV which makes it easier just block off 6 at the solenoid box and block off where 22 was originally connected (dump pipe) Syms parrallel headers. Set of Power Enterprise turbos PE1018F secondary = VF32 PE1016F primary = VF31 on P16 turbine housing instead of original P11

Mitrich. For the BE5 as it is slightly different set up (solenoid box 1,2,3,5,6,8,10,12) you will only need to change as in GTB diagram: 1,5, and 6 1. this will leave the IC valve open (atmos) 5. this keeps the pressure differential sensor happy (alternative is to block 5 at solenoid box and connect 22 via T piece to 2 or 3) 6. this keeps the ECV open. (neg pressure/vacuum from start up)

The combination I have seen is a primary VF16 and secondary VF17 both with wastegates. These are listed on Turbomaster. The VF16 is essentially a compressor wheel upgrade of the VF13 (4/4) to match the VF14 (5/5) compressor wheel

http://www.cts-kumamoto.com/ They do a kit for the BG,BD BH and BE D ECU rewrite etc required for BH and BE

The main problem is the preset transition point RPM 3900-4100. Essentially those two turbos VF13 and VF26 spool at approx the same rate. The small wheeled lower flowing VF13 reaches peak efficiency much earlier and consequently has less percentage drop off in flow during transition.The larger wheeled higher flowing VF26 peaks later and suffer a larger percentage fall off during transition. The VF25 or better still VF31 would produce less transition fall off. The VF26 can be made to feel like a VF13 if the RPM point is moved up to ie 4500 RPM? by using Sequential controller or by changing the CHRA to BB.